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  • Topic: Battery Voltage Choices

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    • December 4, 2017 12:09 AM EST

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      You can fit the G3, the P8 and the battery all in the "A with room to spare.  You won't need the second battery in the "B".  Just run a cable with a plug on it from the A to the B.  This way you can run the "A" solo.  Run 4 wires, 2 for the motors and 2 for the second speaker.  You will want a speaker in the "B"!  Be sure to change all the lights to LEDs.  Running both engines, you should get about 3 hours run time depending on number of cars, track curves, grades etc..  There are batteries out there that fit perfectly your FA and GP-9.  Let me know if I can be of further help. Ralph fcwrr@aol.com

       

    • December 4, 2017 2:02 PM EST
      • Milpitas, California
         
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      Ralph, the "B" unit is motorized, same as the "A" unit. Shouldn't the "B" unit have a battery in it too? Don't you want to set both the "A" and "B" units up with the Airwire to run concurrently? Didn't plan on changing the lighting in the engine, but the new USAT passenger cars all have LED's in them, so there should be less drain on the batteries.

    • December 4, 2017 2:06 PM EST
      • Seattle, Washington
         
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      Given my test results, you may want to consider the 18.5 volt batteries from RLD Hobbies instead of the 14.8. Be sure to get the better charger. Especially if these are for a passenger train. It will be able to go faster if that is something you desire.  I haven't personally tried the 18.5 volt batteries and the summary from this thread is that there maybe reception loss by going to higher voltage but some on here have said they didn't experience any issues with the higher voltage.

    • December 4, 2017 5:00 PM EST
      • Berkshire, Ma.
         
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      Michael Kirrene said:

      So.......I have a USA Trains FA and FB unit. I also have a USA Trains GP-9. I plan on going with the Airwire system to operate both. One T5000 transmitter (w/backlight), one G3x decoder, one Phoenix P8, and one battery in the FA unit and one G3x decoder and one battery in the FB unit. USA Trains passenger cars (new w/LED's) in the future. I intend to install one G3x decoder and one battery in the GP-9 unit. 

       

      It has been recommended to me that I use 14.8v 6800Mah Li-Ion batteries all around. Do any of you have other recommendations?

       

      Michael have you given any thought to using the drop-ins instead of the G3x?

      Richard 

       

    • December 4, 2017 6:20 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      It appears that the G3 series has a 3 amp smoke driver, while no mention if that counts against the 120 watt rating or if the drop in has this... no mention for the dropin.

       

      Interesting to note that the 120 watts is indeed 10 amps at 12 volts, but 8 amps at 14.8 volts and 6.5 amps at 18.5 volts.

       

      People used to call it a 10 amp decoder, but it's not really at G scale voltages. Of course, normally at higher voltages, you draw lower current, so the wattage consumed should be approximately the same regardless of the voltage input.

       

      2 locos should be fine from one unit in my opinion, and this has been done for years with the CVP product.

       

      Greg

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    • December 4, 2017 8:39 PM EST
      • Milpitas, California
         
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      Richard said:
      Michael Kirrene said:

      So.......I have a USA Trains FA and FB unit. I also have a USA Trains GP-9. I plan on going with the Airwire system to operate both. One T5000 transmitter (w/backlight), one G3x decoder, one Phoenix P8, and one battery in the FA unit and one G3x decoder and one battery in the FB unit. USA Trains passenger cars (new w/LED's) in the future. I intend to install one G3x decoder and one battery in the GP-9 unit. 

       

      It has been recommended to me that I use 14.8v 6800Mah Li-Ion batteries all around. Do any of you have other recommendations?

       

      Michael have you given any thought to using the drop-ins instead of the G3x?

      Richard 

       

       

       

       

       

      Richard, yes I did initially. Then a gentleman who does the Airwire installs for many of the BAGRS club members here advised me to go with the G3 over the drop-in. I think he said it was because of the G3's versatility over the drop-in board. I don't remember the details of the conversation. There doesn't seem to be a big difference in price between the two.

    • December 4, 2017 8:49 PM EST
      • Milpitas, California
         
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      RALPH MERRILL said:

      You can fit the G3, the P8 and the battery all in the "A with room to spare.  You won't need the second battery in the "B".  Just run a cable with a plug on it from the A to the B.  This way you can run the "A" solo.  Run 4 wires, 2 for the motors and 2 for the second speaker.  You will want a speaker in the "B"!  Be sure to change all the lights to LEDs.  Running both engines, you should get about 3 hours run time depending on number of cars, track curves, grades etc..  There are batteries out there that fit perfectly your FA and GP-9.  Let me know if I can be of further help. Ralph fcwrr@aol.com

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

      Just read my e-mails from months ago and this is what the gentleman who does the installs said:

      My question: "I thought it would be preferable to have a G3x (or drop-in)  in both the A and B units. That way you can control the speed of both independently and have them run in sync? And wouldn’t the A and B units draw more battery power faster by running on 1 instead of 2 batteries?" 

      His answer: "As far as the F-3’s, I have been able to run 2 of them with one G-3 and 2 batteries in the A unit. That makes the B unit very inexpensive to convert. A G-3 in each unit is the preference. Battery usage is determined by the current draw of each engine.

       

       

      This post was edited by Michael Kirrene at December 4, 2017 8:50 PM EST
    • December 4, 2017 10:05 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      I prefer to have a decoder per loco myself, it allows easy speed matching, and being able to run the loco independently. I actually have fun driving the locos together and then adding them to the consist, and then driving the consist away. Also, I cut helpers on and off the consist on grades. It's a lot of fun, so independent control and separate sound is nicest.

       

      But, many people are more cost conscious so they want to run a single decoder. It's understandable.

       

      Also, the same train uses about the same amp-hours, one loco or two... the power consumed to take a train up a hill remains constant, so two locos will each draw about half of what one loco will draw. (not counting smoke units and extra sound). So you don't necessarily need double the battery if you run 2 locos from the same decoder BUT! this is for the same length train... most people running 2 locos will want to pull more cars than when they run 1 loco.

       

      Greg

       

      This post was edited by Greg Elmassian at December 5, 2017 2:24 PM EST
      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

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