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  • Topic: Basement staging/loop build

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    • November 6, 2017 10:09 PM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
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      Basement staging/loop build

      Some of you gave me some helpful advice on my indoor staging and loop, and I've begun construction.  This plan is more or less final, with a couple of minor modifications.  

      Here are some chronological photos of the progress to date.  I'm having to integrate storage into and above the benchwork to store the stuff that's in the way of the benchwork.  

      In the photo above, the tunnel to outdoors will be at the right end of the bench.  

      Starting around the first corner.

      Laying out some track for the track inspector to approve.  I'm using SVRR code 250 for the layout, but these USAT segments to gauge the curves.  

      Same area as the previous photo with the benchwork in place.  There will be a bump out for that dangling track.

      I hope to get the rest of the way around the perimeter next weekend, and start figuring out what I'm going to do for a removable bridge across the bottom of the stairs.

    • November 6, 2017 10:36 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Great start. Looks very much like my recent benches; nice and sturdy.. I vote for  folding bridge at the stairs. You never need to worry about where to stuff it.  Don't forget something to stop trains when the bridge is up/out. Trains do find their way into the abyss. I lost a a Dizzy over one of mine before I figured that one out.

       

      ____________________________________

      www.cvsry.com www.cvsry.com

    • November 6, 2017 11:22 PM EST
      • Vail, Az
         
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      Warning! It is suggested to put a length of straight between 2 reverse curves. There can be coupler binds when 2 long cars are going opposite ways. They say as long as your longest car, I cheat and use a foot, but I run smaller 1:24 scale classic equipment on 10' D curves.

      I'd also suggest rolling a car near that stair stringer,  might need to notch it for clearance.

      Very nice bench work.

      ____________________________________

      John

       

      The older I get, the less I know, please don't make me prove it.

       

       

    • November 7, 2017 5:14 AM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
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      Thanks for the warning about the straight section. I had planned to do that since I’m using flex track, but I may need to make it longer than I had planned.  The track won’t be as close to that stringer as shown in the photo, but I had planned on needing to notch it a little. That’s why I didn’t continue the wall framing down to be flush with the bottom of the stringer.   I am trying for a 8 foot minimum diameter, but I will probably have to cheat it a little bit in that area. That particular section of track is just the reverse loop, and not critical for staging a training getting it outside.  I appreciate the advice!

    • November 7, 2017 5:14 AM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
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      Jon:  Do you have a pin or something where the two ends of track meet at the end of the bridge to keep the rails aligned, or are the hinges rigid enough that it isn‘t a problem?

      This post was edited by Eric Reuter at November 7, 2017 5:16 AM EST
    • November 7, 2017 7:04 AM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Eric Reuter said:

      Jon:  Do you have a pin or something where the two ends of track meet at the end of the bridge to keep the rails aligned, or are the hinges rigid enough that it isn‘t a problem?

      On both my folding bridges I use Hillman bridge clamps at the end that the bridge folds away from. On the hinge end the rails are just cut. The hinges keep that end very tight. A pin or two on the open end would also work.  My issue was the approach rail on the open end. Without a connection it didn't want to hold the curve correctly. That was solved with a big out-of-scale screw on the outside of the rail.

      ____________________________________

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    • November 7, 2017 11:25 AM EST
      • Easton , Massachusetts
         
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      "STOP " Insulate and dry wall first .. harder with track in the way !!

      ____________________________________

       My you-tube

      The light in the tunnel might not be an engine , but a light in the caboose of my own train on my Roundy Round Rail Road !    My empire is complete...I think...

    • November 7, 2017 11:32 AM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
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      I have no intention to ever insulate or drywall. The studs along the perimeter wall are just to hold shelving. The 100-year-old stone foundation requires some maintenance, and I don’t want to render it inaccessible. 

    • November 8, 2017 1:50 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      I see you were knowledgeable / smart enough to realize the pivot points for the bridge hinges need to be ABOVE the rail head. Congrats. That is a concept that is difficult for many, although when demonstrated it is pretty obvious.

       

      There is a guy in the UK making copies of the Hillman bridge clamps, the best there ever were... if you need the link let me know, I could stand to buy a few more sets myself. Ordering together we could mitigate the shipping cost somewhat.

       

      Greg

       

      This post was edited by Greg Elmassian at November 8, 2017 1:51 PM EST
      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
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    • November 8, 2017 5:32 PM EST
      • Nashville, IL
         
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      I just use the split-jaw bridge clamps...    

    • November 8, 2017 5:41 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      They are ok, I have both, if you can find the hillman ones, you will probably agree they are superior.

      BTDT

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • November 8, 2017 6:01 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Greg Elmassian said:

      I see you were knowledgeable / smart enough to realize the pivot points for the bridge hinges need to be ABOVE the rail head. Congrats. That is a concept that is difficult for many, although when demonstrated it is pretty obvious.

      I assume that comment is directed at me since I posted the photo of the folding bridge.  I think I experimented with hinge points in Visio (low-end CAD) to determine where the pivot point needed to be.  My other folding bridge has side rails for the full length where the hinges are mounted. The crank counterweight on My Fn3 Live Steam Shay will hit the hinge if I'm not careful. I have enough height that I could route out a space for the hinge to get some clearance. One of those projects that never get the round tuit.

       

      This post was edited by Jon Radder at November 8, 2017 6:02 PM EST
      ____________________________________

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    • November 8, 2017 6:24 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      Sorry, been out of town too long Jon, thought it was a post by Eric (wow, already built ha ha)...

       

      Don't mind me, I'll go hide now...

       

      You are already smart, you don't need any compliments ha ha!

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • November 8, 2017 8:34 PM EST
      • San Mateo, California
         
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      Split Jaw Bridge Clamps

      Andy Clarke said:

      I just use the split-jaw bridge clamps...    

       

      Split Jaw Bridge Drop-in/Lift-out Clamps are intended for code 332 rail.  (Eric indicated he is using code 250 rail.)
      "...clamps works with all Code 332 with a flange width of 7.0mm to 7.5mm"

      But I wonder if the clamps can be adapted to code 250 rail?

      Example application at both ends of drop-in LGB Bridge

      LGB Drop-in Bridge With Split Jaw Bridge Clamps at both ends

      For more info., see vignette, Split Jaw Bridge Clamp Installation Example

      -Ted

       

      This post was edited by Ted Doskaris at November 8, 2017 8:35 PM EST
    • November 14, 2017 6:56 PM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
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      I just ran my first train!  I have about 20 feet of track down.  

    • November 14, 2017 7:15 PM EST
      • Settle Down Boomer ,
         
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      Congratulations!!!

    • November 14, 2017 10:40 PM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
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      Here are some details on what I've been up to.  I decided to use cork under the track if for no other reason than to raise it a bit with respect to the plywood.  I bought a large roll from Amazon, and sliced off 36" lengths of 2"-wide strips to double up for straight runs and 1" strips for the curves.  I've been adhering it with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, which is nice because it bonds instantly.  I then shaped the edges with a Shurform and installed the track.  I am using small ringshank nails that I got at Home Depot that are dark brown.  Of course they'll be hidden by the ballast anyway.  

      I'm using a 9' long piece of PVC trim to create the curve easements, as seen in the last photo.

       

      Track spacing is 7" O.C. in the straightaways and 11" O.C. in the curves.  Curves are 48", 50", and 52" radii, with the tightest on the outside to create the additional space.  

    • November 15, 2017 11:53 AM EST
      • Denver, Colorado
         
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      Eric Reuter said:

      I just ran my first train!  I have about 20 feet of track down.  

       

         Way to go, Eric! It feels great, doesn't it? It looks great anyway!

         Keep us posted all the way.

       

      ____________________________________

    • November 15, 2017 1:44 PM EST

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      Eric,

      Just looked at this for the first time.  Looks good.  I would be tempted to add another  stub siding on the outer track of the wye at the lower left of your drawing.  6 or 7 more feet of storage can never hurt. 

      ____________________________________

      Paul Burch

      Sierra Cascade & Pacific RR

    • November 15, 2017 2:50 PM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
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      Paul Burch said:

      Eric,

      Just looked at this for the first time.  Looks good.  I would be tempted to add another  stub siding on the outer track of the wye at the lower left of your drawing.  6 or 7 more feet of storage can never hurt. 

      I think I understand what you mean.  Since I drew that, I've modified the plan to bring that 3-way in the lower left all the way around the corner to the west end of the bridge.  

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