Large Scale Central

Trying out roadbed

The wife and I have been pondering how to do the roadbed for the Sprite Valley. We picked up some ProFlex Paver edging at Home Depot, and so far, it looks good.

ProFlex edging

You lay the edging out, spike it down, lay in some paver sand, then level whatever paving bricks you want to use. We’re going to use 4" x 8" bricks.

I’m trying the layout for it, so I haven’t put any sand down yet. I just want to see how it works. I have some other track coming that will slightly alter the layout. Once the sand is in place under the bricks, the top edge of the bricks will be a half inch or so above the top of the paver edging, and there will be more spikes used to hold it in place. The spikes will also be driven all the way down. I need to be able to pull them for the moment.

" No sand " to fine it will find it’s way into your engine …just like the beach …(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Use gravel 1/8 " to 3/8 " ( I just opened a can of worms … ) looks good and tends to stay in place.

No one will see the gravel if I use it. It will be under the bricks, as will the sand. And I live in the desert. There is plenty of sand already present.

He’ll have more issues with blowing dust I would think Sean.

Greg

Sand should not be a problem for the way he’s describing it to be used, as a base for the bricks… The edging material will help keep the sand in place under the bricks…

I am curious as to what he’s going to use for ballast…

I have doubts about such small bricks in the monsoons. Longer pavers will lessen the cobblestone effect.

I’d move those Edgers to the other side so the tabs meet in the middle and fill the gap with crushed rock ballast. It’s so easy to reset the track to level, push down and shake or lift and shake.

Just a suggestion.

John Caughey said:

I have doubts about such small bricks in the monsoons. Longer pavers will lessen the cobblestone effect.

I’d move those Edgers to the other side so the tabs meet in the middle and fill the gap with crushed rock ballast. It’s so easy to reset the track to level, push down and shake or lift and shake.

Just a suggestion.

Ok, I’ll bite. Why? I’ve used these bricks for just about everything, including foundations for raised flower beds (no mortar) and never had any problems. What are you expecting to happen?

As far as the edging, they are specifically intended to have the tabs on the outside - don’t ask me why, but that’s the way the manufacturer intended.

Daniel,

It looks good and should work quite well. I went to the link you gave and they are very expensive. Are you going to do this for your entire railroad? (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Not sure yet. Right now, the layout isn’t that big, and will not expand very rapidly, so it is do-able. Might just do the front side like this. The back side is a little hilly, and may have to do something else. Might go down to the train store today.

Or

Two options

1st

2nd

since you like brick…(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

These have been in for a while on my pike …

Daniel Collins said:

John Caughey said:

I have doubts about such small bricks in the monsoons. Longer pavers will lessen the cobblestone effect.

I’d move those Edgers to the other side so the tabs meet in the middle and fill the gap with crushed rock ballast. It’s so easy to reset the track to level, push down and shake or lift and shake.

Just a suggestion.

Ok, I’ll bite. Why? I’ve used these bricks for just about everything, including foundations for raised flower beds (no mortar) and never had any problems. What are you expecting to happen?

As far as the edging, they are specifically intended to have the tabs on the outside - don’t ask me why, but that’s the way the manufacturer intended.

I’ve seen the way brick patios settle. I’ve driven the old block concrete hi ways.

Maybe my Murphy is more active than yours(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Don’t tell me you read the instructions? Oh no!

Since I wasn’t going to edge bricks with it, so what if I do it my way? Many times I re-purpose building materials for other uses…

I figured the ballast weight would help hold the Edgers in place. Especially if you add switches …

The way my track moves up to 1 1/2" laterally, from the sun, floating in ballast is the easiest to true up by shaking the track into level. Just offering a known method.

I’ll go back to watching…

Each of us have different standards, different requirements and different powers of observation.

Part of my layout started with a bunch of 1 foot sections of track, which is like trying to get bricks not only perfectly level side to side, and along the long axis but also the alignment of the ends of the bricks matching in height.

I noticed when watching my Mikado, the boiler was not staying level but pitching fore and aft. Did it derail? No. Did all of my friends notice this “pitching” on my layout or their layouts? NO.

But do I notice it, hell yes and it looks like crap to me. Also by fixing this in my layout, the trains run much more smoothly and long trains are no issue.

So what “works” and what “looks good” is pretty much in the eye of the beholder most times.

But, if you have EVER seen really nice trackwork, it’s beautiful to look at by itself, and the trains do not pitch and wobble. I can ALWAYS point this out to people and then they do indeed see this.

Greg

I’m replacing short sections of track with long. My wife is a trained mason, along with other things. and OCD, so if it isn’t done correctly, and perfectly, she’ll redo it.

Long sections of track do respond better the temperature changes. I did mine with 10’ sections of track and a rail bender I was lucky enough to be able to borrow from Dave. Also leaving the track float helps a lot too. Of course this is based on my experience with my layout.

Daniel Collins said:

I’m replacing short sections of track with long. My wife is a trained mason, along with other things. and OCD, so if it isn’t done correctly, and perfectly, she’ll redo it.

You want a solid brick raised roadbed then !

Hell I know I would !!!

Right now, we’re compromising on easily removable should we wish to make changes. Right now I’m taking a break from putting down some temporary ballast so I can run my locomotive - probably not till tomorrow.

Good idea, often when running you see things you want to change that all the planning and thought did not reveal. Stay flexible!

Greg