Forums Modeling Technical Modeling
  • Topic: Some new Kadee-related creations

    Back To Topics
    (0 rates)
    • October 7, 2017 10:15 AM EDT
      • Kittery, ME
         
      • Posts
        533
      • Thanks
        36
      • Thanked
        185

      I printed two of the double-flanged F3 adapters and put them on an A and B unit pair.  The upgrade takes about 3 minutes.  Here are the steps:

      1. Screw the adapter to the deck using the original screws.

      2. Bend the center of the coupler lift bar slightly upwards to get it out of the way of the knuckle.  I used two pair of needle nosed pliers.

      3. Install the assembled 907 using two #4x5/8" pan head wood screws (the ones that come with the coupler should work - I used stainless).


      That's it!  Here's the height test:

       

       

      Notes: I designed this so the knuckle would land under the lift bar.  This puts the two units closer together than the USAT couplers.  It's more prototypical looking, but the diaphragms are now too large.  I'll probably trim them.  Here are photos of the engines at the stock spacing with the bellows just touching, and coupled together with the bellows squished.

       

       

       

       

      This post was edited by Eric Reuter at February 20, 2018 5:57 PM EST
    • October 7, 2017 11:42 AM EDT
      • San Mateo, California
         
      • Posts
        197
      • Thanks
        37
      • Thanked
        58

      Eric,

      Excellently done and thoughtfully implemented.

      Thank you,

      -Ted

    • October 7, 2017 3:11 PM EDT
      • Deer Park, Washington
         
      • Posts
        12,361
      • Thanks
        402
      • Thanked
        251

      I had a friend print one of the GP9s, and then some for a GP38 and a S4.  Those are in the shop for installation after the snow flies.  The GP9 works great! 

      ____________________________________

      Not only does my mind wander, sometimes it walks off completely.

       

      Some people try to turn back their odometers.  Not me.  I want people to know why I look this way.  I've traveled a long way, and some of the roads weren't paved.  Will Rogers.

    • October 8, 2017 1:44 PM EDT
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
      • Posts
        7,715
      • Thanks
        114
      • Thanked
        538

      Yeah, I need those too! and the NW2 if it is ever figured out.

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • October 8, 2017 4:42 PM EDT
      • Cave Creek, AZ
         
      • Posts
        2
      • Thanks
        0
      • Thanked
        0

      I used this part on a GP38 unmodified with Kadee 797 medium offset with good success as a replacement of the Manufacture supplied post?

      Also a benign 'twas that the single screw attachment worked ok but a hard coupling would lose the the attachment needing to be retightened.

      I have a ROBO 3D Printer. Works great!

      Howard
      No photo yet.
    • October 8, 2017 7:15 PM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
      • Posts
        10,031
      • Thanks
        82
      • Thanked
        592

      Why is there an "F" on the back end of the locomotive?

       

      ____________________________________

      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

    • October 8, 2017 7:27 PM EDT
      • Berkshire, Ma.
         
      • Posts
        729
      • Thanks
        136
      • Thanked
        46

      David Maynard said:

      Why is there an "F" on the back end of the locomotive?

       

       

       

      Because that is the front of the B unit he used.

      Richard

    • October 9, 2017 6:48 AM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
      • Posts
        10,031
      • Thanks
        82
      • Thanked
        592

      Ah. my mistake.

      ____________________________________

      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

    • January 12, 2018 6:18 PM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
      • Posts
        533
      • Thanks
        36
      • Thanked
        185

      I finally got around to doing a coupler mount for the front of the F3A.  In the photos, you can see the mount and the modification to the pilot that is needed.  

       

      After taking the photos, I decided to bolt the mount through the deck with nuts on the other side.  The original screws didn't feel sufficient.  

    • February 19, 2018 6:59 PM EST
      • Poway, CA
         
      • Posts
        46
      • Thanks
        2
      • Thanked
        1

      Hi Eric, Finally got around to installing the mounts and am really happy with them. As you mentioned above you need to cut the bellows. I'm not willing to cut mine so found a good workaround by reversing the mount, trimming the little tabs on the coupler, and drilling a new hole in the coupler shank. Coupler box sits right up to the 2 tabs on your mount. The stock couplers were too tight with the bellows and after coming out of turns they were causing derailments. I would love to get them closer but need to make new bellows as I dont want to cut up the "silver" ones.

       

       

    • February 19, 2018 10:10 PM EST
      • West Glocester, Rhode Island
         
      • Posts
        283
      • Thanks
        27
      • Thanked
        59

      Greg Elmassian said:

      Yeah, I need those too! and the NW2 if it is ever figured out.

       

      Greg

      Greg,

      Before Eric got his printer, He was kind enough to send me the GP9 adapter .STL file and I remixed for the GP38 and NW2.  I use #1 couplers so made those as well.  I've e-mailed them to you.

      This post was edited by Dan Gilchrist at February 19, 2018 10:11 PM EST
      ____________________________________

      Thingiverse Icon Instagram Icon

    • February 20, 2018 12:20 AM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
      • Posts
        7,715
      • Thanks
        114
      • Thanked
        538

      Got them Dan, thanks!

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • February 20, 2018 5:56 PM EST
      • Kittery, ME
         
      • Posts
        533
      • Thanks
        36
      • Thanked
        185

      Dave - I'm glad they worked out!  I have since developed diaphragms that link together magnetically.  I will detail that project here when I have time.  They work really well.

Forums Modeling Technical Modeling

    Icon Legend

  • Topic has replies
    Hot topic
    Topic unread
    Topic doesn't have any replies
    Closed topic
    BBCode  is enabled
    HTML  is enabled

Add Reputation

Do you want to add reputation for this user by this post?

or cancel

Ads by Google