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  • Topic: Build Log, Babs River Railway

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    • June 16, 2018 10:05 PM EDT
      • Vail, Az
         
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      A true Joe Doakes moment, simple as just another dozen switches....

      All Aboard!

      ____________________________________

      John

       

      The older I get, the less I know, please don't make me prove it.

       

       

    • August 12, 2018 7:10 PM EDT
      • Peoria, NW of Phoenix, Arizona
         
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      Started to work on the tunnel on the east side of the layout, playing with some diffferent ideas, and working slowly on a 105* day here in good old AZ. I think I have the length of the tunnel set at about 4 feet or so, placed the base of pavers to discourage rabbits from thinking this will be home, then I tried my double stack Intermodal and it JUST barely hits the corner bracing on the portal, so now its decision time, since I have 2 intemodals and 2 containers, do I leave it alone,and have a height restriction,Lots of options. raise it up to clear the double stack or abandon it and build another one , or do I attempt to widen it , or cut off the corner braces and let it go.

      Then I went to the north under the large ficus tree and built a low retaining wall. where the flat piece of flagstone is will be the reverse loop that workd around the mountain, just above the retaining wall is the inner loop of track, and against the wall is the outer loop of track. will be a lot of action here in this area, so trying things out before I make them permanent.

      Not a lot of time lately to do much , especially with the heat and summer Monsoons making appearances

      thought I would add this, as I have changed some things from when I started this, I have taken out some things and added more switching oppertunities, to give me something to do besides admiring my train running around the garden. At the bottom left the lead track to the yard is all that fits onto this paper, but there will be hopefully 4 tracks, maybe 5 to hold cars and trains. As always if anyone sees a better way to do something feel free to tell me what I am doing/did wrong.

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      Butt Modeler #2

       

       

    • August 13, 2018 2:15 AM EDT
      • Visalia, California
         
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      Hi Pete, Looking good! On your tunnel clearance issue is there any way you can make the track straight as it enters the tunnel portal? Entering straight on would minimize overhang and make the container clear if I understand correctly.Have you thought about concrete roadbed in the tunnel? Makes it rabbit proof and you could use it to anchor your tunnel walls.

      Steve

    • August 13, 2018 6:45 PM EDT
      • Peoria, NW of Phoenix, Arizona
         
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      Hey Steve thanks, the concrete blocks  are going to be the floor of the tunnel, just so rabbits don’t try to inhabit there. Also the whole tunnel is a 10’ loopp to be used as a reverse loop and there is no room for it to straighten out much.

      ____________________________________

       

      Butt Modeler #2

       

       

    • September 10, 2018 10:29 PM EDT
      • Peoria, NW of Phoenix, Arizona
         
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      Time for a progress report, still summer so not a lot is going on these days in sunny ( when not under Monsoon conditions) Arizona. But I did get a couple of early morning days where I could do something before it got too hot Checked out some different things for ballast first was small pebbles, but they looked too large so picked them up for use elsewhere and then got a bag of decomposed granite, tried that but it blended in to the dirt too much so I added some of the abrasives I haul, Brand name SharpShot, copper slag from old copper mines, ground screened and graded in 75lb bags, (another product almost the same is Black Beauty) I used the extra coarse 12x30 size  and after adjusting the mix I think I like how it looks

      after that test I took the small pebbles bag and tried them in the "V" gaps between the wall blocks to make things look a bit more "finished" looking

      I may spread them out a little from there to fill that area in.

      Then the next opportunity I had Istarted to experiment on what to do about the proposed tunnel on the east side of the layout. I think the flagstone may be a bit odd looking, I am also thinking of stacking it in horizontal slabs using construction adhesive to see if that looks much better

      Oh and I discovered when I was digging the hole for the flagstone slabs, you want to keep 6 inches of dirt off the switch located nearby, it was a real bear to clean up to get smooth operationon it. will not make that mistake again!

      ____________________________________

       

      Butt Modeler #2

       

       

    • September 10, 2018 11:56 PM EDT
      • Vail, Az
         
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      Best keep that grit away from the throw bar area as well ... A general rule of thumb is the switch goes on a hard surface and no ballast near moving parts, including the rails.

      Looks good.

      I think ... flag stones look best stacked flat or tilted, but on the same angle for uniformity, but that's me, I think. Double warning

      ____________________________________

      John

       

      The older I get, the less I know, please don't make me prove it.

       

       

    • September 11, 2018 5:55 AM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      Are you track power or battery power? if track power, having metal particles in the ballast can cause the track to short out in damp weather.

       

      And you really don't want to use rounded stone as ballast, they don't lock together and hold the track well.

      ____________________________________

      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

    • September 11, 2018 6:35 AM EDT
      • Easton , Massachusetts
         
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      I put my switches on flagstones ... with almost no ballast..

       

      Edit : Dam auto correct..

      This post was edited by Sean McGillicuddy at September 11, 2018 7:49 AM EDT
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       My u-tube

      The light in the tunnel might not be an engine , but a light in the caboose of my own train on my Roundy Round Rail Road !    My empire is complete...I think...

    • September 11, 2018 7:22 AM EDT
      • Winmalee, NSW Australia
         
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      Sean McGillicuddy said:

      I put my stiches on flagstones ... with almost no ballast..

       

       

       

      Sounds like it could be painful!

       

    • September 11, 2018 7:48 AM EDT
      • Easton , Massachusetts
         
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      You beat Fr. Fred .. Dam.. auto correct .. how do they know what I'm trying to say .. when I do not even know...

      ____________________________________

       My u-tube

      The light in the tunnel might not be an engine , but a light in the caboose of my own train on my Roundy Round Rail Road !    My empire is complete...I think...

    • September 11, 2018 10:27 AM EDT
      • Vail, Az
         
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      Forgot to mention that the grit can get into your engines; a rain splash or watering, a downdraft can send it anywhere... I'd sift out the finer stuff and cover a wet cement slag heap with it.

      Might want to wash your bearings between runs ... https://www.webstaurantstore.com/all-points-85-1138-non-aerosol-food-grade-machine-oil-14-oz/AP851138.html

      ____________________________________

      John

       

      The older I get, the less I know, please don't make me prove it.

       

       

    • September 16, 2018 8:22 PM EDT
      • Peoria, NW of Phoenix, Arizona
         
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      This stuff is bigger than sand particles so should not have a problem with it intruding any worse than sand and dirt. There isn’t enough of the slag to cause shorts , I don’t think, and I am not sure if it is even metallic. Going to get a magnet to see now!

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      Butt Modeler #2

       

       

    • September 17, 2018 6:38 AM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      Copper is non magnetic. An ohm meter will tell you if the slag is conductive.

      ____________________________________

      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

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