My heavy skeleton log cars are coming along nicely. 4 are finished and 6 are still on the bench. A few alterations since I built the first one.
They now ride on Accucraft trucks. The first one had LGB trucks, which I didn’t like as much. I extended the length 3" to accommodate 25’ (scale) logs.
Where’s the “Like” button?
Seriously good!
Steve Featherkile said:
Where’s the “Like” button?
Whur is the WOW GREAT button ? . . . (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
Darn fine craftsmanship right there!!
Yes very nice. I really like that first shot. Six more? That’s going to be a nice string. Great work John!
Looking good. Almost good enough to motivate me to finish the set I started. Got hung up bending the metal bracing bars consistently. Started designing a die to stamp them with, but came up short there too.
Daktah John said:
Looking good. Almost good enough to motivate me to finish the set I started. Got hung up bending the metal bracing bars consistently. Started designing a die to stamp them with, but came up short there too.
I built some log cars from Garden Railway plans a few years ago. Bending the brass hardware was a pain in the rear for me as well. Keep at it!.. THose look really nice. What color red did you use for the frames…?
This was what I came up with from the GR plans…I think they could be modified to look more prototypical. I ended up using steel wool and vinegar stain mixture. These were constructed from cedar, so it turned a nice grayish look…
I went for grey as well based on some prototype pics. This was as far as I got…
@JB - Could you post a close-up high angle shot that would show your bunk braces ?
Thanks, guys!
The metal work is the easiest part of the whole build.
I use K&S .016 x 1/4 for the pieces that need to be formed. It is hand formed with flat needle nosed pliers. The material is cut to length with simple side cutters. you grip the piece and bend it back and forth a few times and it snaps.
A few packs of cheap Harbor Freight 1/16" drill bits, a small smooth file, a dremel , and a scribe. A small vise clamped next to you can bend the heavier brass, if you use .132 for any thing. You can bend it with the hand tools, but it is a little harder to form.
After I finish my morning paper and coffee, I’ll go out in the shop and take some pics for you all.
Well, Doktah, I told a bunch of pics and can’t upload them cause my FS is full. I’m trying to figure out what to do. So bear with me.
I could only upload one, so I chose the finished bunk. You can use NBW’s or in my case, I just use brass nails, dipped in glue. 10’ rule applied.
The braces are .016 and the spike strip is .132 brass.
double post
If you have a torch and a fire brick you can anneal the brass and make sharper bends. Just heat to a pale cherry red and let cool. Don’t quench.
For square corners without marring the surface, try a pair of these Parallel Jaw pliers;
John
Thanks John & John - Good call on the annealing. I’ve heated aluminum to bend it in a brake at work. Never knew it was better to let it cool fist. Easier to handle too (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
You are welcome.
It’s molecular, annealing moves them apart, bending, work hardens by moving them back. With gaps the metal bends, when the molecules are tight they have to bend over each other in the same space, less give causes it to tear and you’ll see a crack.
Some hardening methods include an ice quench when cherry red… it shocks them closer and can make the metal brittle… bend and crack. Done for better wear.
If you are tempering steel, use a thin layer of light machine oil on top. Helps to keep water molecules out of the porous steel.
With our engravers, we tempered to glass hard and then softened them so they wouldn’t chip.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John
Jon,
The pic of the strap work disappeared. I’ll repost it.
I’ve got a question about annealing brass. Do you let it cool before you bend it or do you bend it while it’s hot?
Joe,
I don’t anneal brass. Since it holds its shape after you bend it, I just use those flat pliers. No problem.
Years ago, I worked in a sheet metal shop, where we used hydraulic brakes on all kind of material: aluminum, brass, tin etc.
We just shaped it.
John Bouck said:
Joe,
I don’t anneal brass. Since it holds its shape after you bend it, I just use those flat pliers. No problem.
Years ago, I worked in a sheet metal shop, where we used hydraulic brakes on all kind of material: aluminum, brass, tin etc.
We just shaped it.
Yeah but… your man ordering specified dead soft from the supplier.
Some Chinese brass will fracture before bending… if it is brass(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif).
Most brass from US suppliers has been annealed and cleaned for sale.
edit … returned a run away r
