Large Scale Central

First attempt at switch building

I finally decided it was time to build switches to replace my Aristo. After reading up on switch making and from talks on here I realized that the only way to learn was to just do it. Im using my Aristo switches as a template since the ones im building have be the same size. I started out with making a photo copy of the Aristo switch. This will be my template. Since I’m not good with numbers etc… I decided that this will be built through trial and error.

The first thing I did was cut the pieces of rail that I would need and lay it over top the template that way I get the curves and frog angles correct.

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Next I soldered the frog together.

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Once had everything made I decided to make a jig to hold the ties in place while I lay and spike everything.

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I thought the points would be tough to do but ended up going well. I used a grinder and then a file for the fine tuning.

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So far after testing with small wheels everything rolls through it well. I was surprised being my first attempt. Still need to do the guide rails and I also want to add screws through the rail were the spikes hold it down. That way when I take it out of the Jig everything stays in place.

The biggest PITA is attaching the points to the throw bar and figuring out how much gap to leave in the points so the points close all the way when you throw the switch.

Ya got that one down, now do a 3-way…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Shawn,

I never have purchased a built up switch for my layout. having built them from scratch in my Hon3 days, I simply scaled up a certain organizations #5 switch in On3 and went on from there. this gave me all the required dims for clearances and works well with my desired switch stand of choice.

Looking good. glad to have another convert on board.

Al P.

Since I’m a cheap bast thrifty person, I build all of mine, too. Yeah, I’ve got quite a few store bought turnouts, but I don’t have derailment problems with my home built, like I do with the others.

Mine worked fine for years, but I mistakenly built it a bit too sharp on the diverging route. So, I eventually put an Aristo switch in its place.

The is something gratifying about building a turnout (switch) and having it perform better then store-bought ones.

Ken Brunt said:

The biggest PITA is attaching the points to the throw bar and figuring out how much gap to leave in the points so the points close all the way when you throw the switch.

Ya got that one down, now do a 3-way…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

A double slip should be on Shawn’s training schedule…

Shawn,

Don’t you sometimes use track power? (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)That un-insulated frog will short everything. Or are you ditching track power for battery and live steam?

Joe Zullo said:

Shawn,

Don’t you sometimes use track power? (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)That un-insulated frog will short everything. Or are you ditching track power for battery and live steam?

Just the outer will have track power. Ill make just the straight section of the switch track power then the part going to the reverse loop will be insulated. Switch will only be thrown when using live steam or battery. Honestly I dont use track power other then for club meets.

Thanks guys. I have to say its fun building switches and a new challenge. Ill save a ton of money doing it this way.

I drew up a No. 6 switch and scaled It down to 1:29 when LSOL was up and running. It would be a nice switch, but it would take up some room.

Ron Hill said:

I drew up a No. 6 switch and scaled It down to 1:29 when LSOL was up and running. It would be a nice switch, but it would take up some room.

Thats my issue, I needed switches to match the Aristo. I didn’t want to readjust my layout since the track is hand laid, making it difficult to widen the curves.

Great looking switch Shawn. I wondered when you would take the plunge. Once you build a couple you will have all the tricks figured out. I’m with Ken, the points and throwbar are the hardest part. You are right about the cost. I couldn’t afford what I have if I was buying switches. Mine run about $20 per, for a very robustly made no7. What are you going to use for the throwbar material?

Randy Lehrian Jr. said:

Great looking switch Shawn. I wondered when you would take the plunge. Once you build a couple you will have all the tricks figured out. I’m with Ken, the points and throwbar are the hardest part. You are right about the cost. I couldn’t afford what I have if I was buying switches. Mine run about $20 per, for a very robustly made no7. What are you going to use for the throw bar material?

Thanks Randy. I have a pack of the replacement throw bars that GLX scale models made. They have the spacing etc. Hopefully it will make it easier to get the proper spacing.

Ron Hill said:

I drew up a No. 6 switch and scaled It down to 1:29 when LSOL was up and running. It would be a nice switch, but it would take up some room.

Yea, I built one Ron. It was a biggie.

Randy, you need to make to points on your switches just a bit more, well, pointy.

David Maynard said:

Randy, you need to make to points on your switches just a bit more, well, pointy.

Why were they not pointy enough for you Master Switch Builder Maynard ?

I know it was David. But it was to scale!

If you think s number 6 is big, try a number 9… A gp30 sits nicely between the frog and the points. I’m planning to build a number 11 next!

" Rooster " said:

David Maynard said:

Randy, you need to make to points on your switches just a bit more, well, pointy.

Why were they not pointy enough for you Master Switch Builder Maynard ?

Well, on one of the switches the points were pretty blunt, and that caused the cars to bounce a bit. It could cause a derailment. With a live steamer, derailments are really something one would want to avoid.

Shawn,

I’m going to be following the thread closely as I attempt to build my own 7-1/2 inch gauge #6 RH switch. The procedure should be the same…just the size differs. I HAD ordered a switch from a dealer, but was starting to get concerned about damage in shipment of a large switch like this. It would have been assembled and crated, but I was still leery. The cost of this one would have been in the $800-$900 range including the shipping. I cancelled the order and found an individual who sells these switches in “kit” form with all points, guard rails, frogs and motion control for the points and all the rail pieces cut to size and bent to fit…closure rails, frog rails and guard rails. All for $350 shipped from Florida by UPS. Photos below. All I have to buy extra is the ties and tie plates. Same tie system that I am using in my “Short Line” thread.

#9 switch in the assembly fixture.

#6 RH completed. What I hope I can do :).

I have the switch stand already. Made by Eaton Custom Engineering in Castle Rock, WA.

Stands 16 inches tall with a 3 inch diameter target.

Switch point actuator at the bottom. 12 inch blade for size comparison.

I have never made a turnout before and hope that I haven’t taken on more than I can do…we’ll see.

Looks like you’re doing well, Gary. What are you using for track gauges?