Large Scale Central

What could be used for pivot bearings?

Indulge my brainstorming here for a bit if you would. If, one were to use an entire Hartland Mack chassis to make draft trucks for something like this http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/dsng7.jpg or this http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/dsng11.jpg

What could be used for pivot bearings? I need some help there.

Have been pondering this project at odd moments for a couple years now but I’m still at a loss for what to use for pivot bearings.

There has to be something out there, there just has to be.

IMG_5178 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

I have a similar situation with a proposed build. I look forward to the answers you get.

David Maynard said:

I have a similar situation with a proposed build. I look forward to the answers you get.

Wait a minute, you’re not following the script here - you are supposed to be giving me the answers! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

third world solution:

i would use any bolt or screw that fits, with a sleeve of a piece of brass-pipe.

K & S makes telescoping brass tubes. Cap the ends with a washer.

Pivot on the tube, bearing weight on the washers.

Those are your clues.

John

Fender washers stacked up with lubricant between them. Make sure they are nice and smooth. Or brass spacer washers.

Forrest Scott Wood said:

David Maynard said:

I have a similar situation with a proposed build. I look forward to the answers you get.

Wait a minute, you’re not following the script here - you are supposed to be giving me the answers! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

Forrest, people know that I go “off script” all the time. Or they should know.

Probably way overkill, and 3" is probably too wide though. But turntable (“lazy susan”) bearings would be sturdy, and would secure the trucks to the body (unlike a loose pin joint).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006LBVDI

There are also various grades of flanged 2-screw bearings, with this being a (very) cheap example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045E0EGC

or, a better grade,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYCB0A6

That sort of radial bearing should give the vertical rigidity needed. A 1/4" plastic (say, Delrin) washer on top would provide the thrust bearing surface. Rigidly-mounted 1/4" pins coming down from the loco body would serve as the shafts; though I’m not sure how to vertically lock it down.

OTOH, if you put your rigid pins in the trucks going upward, and the flanged bearings in the floor of the body, and there was a way to take the body off the floor, then you could put collars on the shafts (on top of the bearings) to lock things vertically.

Take a look at shoulder screws from McMaster-Carr.

http://www.allelectronics.com/item/br-19/39mm-thrust-bearing/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/item/nct-440/floating-self-clinching-fastener/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/item/br-14/hf1216-one-way-bearing/1.html

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16273B

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G21805

John Caughey said:

K & S makes telescoping brass tubes. Cap the ends with a washer.

Pivot on the tube, bearing weight on the washers.

Those are your clues.

John

John Bouck said:

Fender washers stacked up with lubricant between them. Make sure they are nice and smooth. Or brass spacer washers.

Brass tubing and super magnets. I have a couple of tubes 10 ea. 8mm round and 2 thick magnets and the repulsion is quite strong, never needs lubing. Add weight to adjust ride…

dos centavos

John

Ah, thank y’all. I’ve been a bit distracted today as this morning one of the 4 Davids in our little county seat farm burg’s model RR club called to say he found our location in basement of city council building flooded with up to about an inch and a half of water from what turned out to be a failed urinal flush valve. Our location used to be the Police Station and before that simply the basement of City Hall and before that a Post Office, IIRC

Of course it was deepest under my 16ft of the HO modular layout where I keep a bunch of supplies.

And I have some Bachmann tinplate G track on floor under yards in middle of HO modular layout.

I would add some pictures but Yahoo’s Flickr seems to be having issues at the moment.

Cleanup people picked up most of my stuff under the layout. That area by sink was said to be deepest water in main room, about an inch and a half David B said.

Ironically the floor drain is in a high spot in floor.

Looks like I’ll have to trash my cardboard and balsa G structures because of getting wet, I know there’s mold in the carpet because I’ve laid on it to nap, and you know it soaked in to the materials. *:( sadWhen building I’d soaked the cardboard and balsa with thinned lacquer so that apparently slowed down water absorption but the damage is done.

Also on floor were my G power packs.
Bachmann G power controller which likely got wet inside.My nice special edition MRC one from Hartland is sealed enough it was a non-issue for it with that water depth.

David B who discovered the flood around 7 am said water was to top of or just over ties on my G track. I need to know more, that rail is tinplate channel, not at all waterproof.

My G reefers are a non-issue, they are weather resistant.

I’m going to have to toss some boxes and instruction papers.
Fortunately my container of scenic supplies was at home.
And I had not left any of my blue Walmart bags of tools and supplies or my luggage for transporting HO trains, they were all at home.

Ah, now Flickr seems to be functional.

IMG_5181 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_5186 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

A picture from building the depot

IMG_5188 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_5197 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_5198 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_5191 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_5200 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_5190 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_5202 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

Put above photo to left of one below.

This is my part of HO modular layout. Sink, cabinets, reefer, and hall to bathroom, are just out of frame lower left. With bathroom other side of wall at upper left of photo.

Track branching off lower left goes to another HO layout in rooms off bottom of photo.

IMG_4918 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

Sorry about your flood damage. I hope in the end it isn’t too bad.

Re bearings; An old hard drive motor would make a great bearing for a turntable or something else. You would need to epoxy something to it to give you a surface for fasteners.

I’ve taken a few apart. They have all kinds of neat junk inside that might be useful for modeling. And the platters make great mirrors, so long as you want a round mirror with a hole in the middle (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Darn, and in a fit of organizing psychosis, I stripped and discarded a few hard drives. I did save the platters and magnets though. But the money I got from the scrap dealer, for the aluminum castings, just wasn’t worth the effort to get them to the recycler.

Forrest,

try these…

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rolling-element-thrust-bearings/=16mingw

Adam