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  • Topic: SD60f Build

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    • November 9, 2017 8:56 PM EST
      • edited for your approval, Arizona
         
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      That someone can even do this kind of work just amazes me. You are the Ray Dunakin of diesel locomotive building. Just amazing. So when do you start taking orders for more of them?

      ____________________________________

       

      Butt Modeler #2

       

       

    • November 11, 2017 3:05 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Thanks Pete. I'm honoured to be compared to Ray, but I think I have a long way to go to get to his level. My diesel shops ordered four of these units, but I think they're going to be lucky to get two. This project has been a lot of work.

       

      We're going to start with the nose detail today. I used a headlight from Miniatures by Eric.

      You need to start by filing out a flat spot. Keep it 3/16" below the hood of the nose 1/8" below the curved edge. It will extend 1/4" to each side from the center joint. It needs to be 3/4" tall, and the bottom will need to be filed at 45 degrees.

      I started by cutting the top and bottom line (green arrows) with a razor saw. Then I filed the section between the two cuts flat. Then I cut and filed the bottom (red arrow) at 45 degrees.

      Mark the placement of your headlight, and then drill two 7/32" holes to match up with it. The light has a solid back, so you'll have to drill it as well.

      Using some epoxy, mount the light.

      Now you can mark and drill for the nose ladder. Keep it 5/16" to the left of the center of the nose. Starting from the bottom, measure the lines 9/16" apart. The top line should end up being about 3/8" below the top of the nose.

      The photo is a little deceptive. The holes on the hood of the nose are 9/16" from the edge. DO NOT measure from the top line on the nose.

      This post was edited by Shane Stewart at November 14, 2017 9:47 PM EST
    • November 11, 2017 4:33 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Now we're going to build the front door. We'll need a piece of 1/16" styrene cut 2 1/4 x 7/8" and a .02" piece cut 2 1/8 x 3/4".

      NOTE - If you are building an older gp38/40/SD40 wide cab, you need to reduce the widths to 3/4" and 5/8". The door is the same, but is 1/8" narrower.

      Center the .02" piece on the back of the door.

      Sand the edges of your door to a slight curve, and then mark it up as shown below for hinges and a door handle.

      Cut four pieces of .06 x .125" styrene 1/16" long. Glue these on the side of the door as shown below. They do not quite come up to the top of the door. With your door on a flat surface as shown, make sure these pieces extend past the door so that they sit against your flat surface. The .02" piece on the rear of the door lifts it a bit, so make sure these pieces extend right to the flat surface.

      Cut four pieces of .02 x .06" styrene 1/8". These go on top of the door as shown below, flush with the outer edge of the door.

      Cut a piece of .02" styrene 1/16 x 1/16" and mount it as shown by the blue arrow. Cut four pieces of .025" rod 1/8" long and mount them as shown by the green arrow. Keep them to the outside of the edge of the door. Now cut some bolt heads from .04" hex and mount them as shown by the red arrows.

      Now for a door handle, I start with a 1/16 x 1/16 x 1/4" piece of styrene. Cut out the green sections as shown below. Sand it to smooth it out and taper it a little, and then mount it on your door. I kept a thin piece of styrene under the inner edge while drying to keep it away from the door.

      Now the door will be mounted 1/4" to the right of the center of the nose, and 3/16" up from the base.

      NOTE - On the older GP38/40/SD40 units, cut a piece of 1/16" u channel 7/8" long, and mount it centered just above the door as a drip trim. It will extend slightly over the headlight. This trim was not used on the SD60f.

       

      This post was edited by Shane Stewart at November 14, 2017 9:49 PM EST
    • November 11, 2017 5:53 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      For the bottom hatches, start with two pieces of .02" styrene cut 1/2 x 3/4"

      Mark these for latches. The latches measure 1/8 x 1/4". They sit 1/16" from the top of the hatch. The latch will be towards the inside.

      Using .01" styrene, cut four pieces 1/8 x 1/4" and punch one end with a 3/32" hole. Punch holes on the inner side of the latch marks on the hatch as shown by the green arrow.

      Glue the latches into place, and once dry file the holes to square them.

      These mount on the bottom corners of the nose. They are 3/16" in from the outer edges, and 1/16" from the bottom.

      NOTE - On the older GP38/40/SD40 units, flip the hatches over so that the latches are at the bottom. There will be a larger gap between the hatch and the door because the door is 1/8" narrower. You'll have to add hinges to the top as shown in red. You'll also have to add the bracket shown in blue. You can lock the hatch into this bracket to hold it open.

    • November 11, 2017 6:26 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Now you can add the grab iron detail as shown on page 12 of the thread.

      Using 3/64" brass rod, make some grab irons. The measurements are between the curves.

    • November 11, 2017 7:18 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Class Lights    WGR | RGW

      NOTE-Class lights and number boards are above the windows on the old GP38/40/SD40 units.

      We'll start with two pieces of .02" styrene cut 11/16 x 1/4". Mark center lines for width and height, and mark 1/8" in from each side as shown.

      Drill some guide holes.

      Gradually work your way up to 3/16".

      Punch six 1/8" circles out of .01" styrene, and punch 5/32" holes out of the centers.

      Mount the rings nicely spaced as shown below.

      Sand the corners of the base to match the curvature of the lights.

      Mount these 2" from the bottom of the nose, and 5/16" in from the sides of the nose. This should result in the right hand class lights sitting tight to the door hinge.

    • November 11, 2017 8:24 PM EST
      • Settle Down Boomer ,
         
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      Outstanding build log that keeps coming !

    • November 11, 2017 8:32 PM EST
      • edited for your approval, Arizona
         
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      I echo the words the chicken said!

       

      ____________________________________

       

      Butt Modeler #2

       

       

    • November 12, 2017 5:39 PM EST
      • romeoville, illinois
         
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      That came out really nice Shane , hope to see it running on a video.

    • November 12, 2017 7:32 PM EST
      • Settle Down Boomer ,
         
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      mike dorsch said:

       hope to see it running on a video.

      +1

    • November 13, 2017 8:05 AM EST
      • Easton , Massachusetts
         
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      Hmmm very interesting ....

      ____________________________________

       My you-tube

      The light in the tunnel might not be an engine , but a light in the caboose of my own train on my Roundy Round Rail Road !    My empire is complete...I think...

    • November 14, 2017 3:33 AM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Unfortunately all of my track is piled up in the basement. This spring I'll have to get something set up in the yard, even if it's a simple loop to start with. I've decided to go with battery power, so hopefully that will speed up layout contruction.

      This post was edited by Shane Stewart at November 14, 2017 3:34 AM EST
    • November 14, 2017 7:36 AM EST
      • Berkshire, Ma.
         
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      Thank You so much and again great build

      Richard

    • November 14, 2017 9:50 PM EST

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      Really top-notch work here!

    • November 17, 2017 8:26 AM EST
      • Cumming, GA
         
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      Wow what a project almost a year in the making.  very nice work.  Later RJD

    • November 17, 2017 6:40 PM EST

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      outstanding.  i also really want to see it pull!

    • November 22, 2017 6:17 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Thanks Guys

       

      Now it's time for the number boards. Start with some .02" styrene cut 7/16 x 15/16".

      Mark the frame 1/8" from the top, 1/16" from the bottom and 3/16" from the sides. The corners will be drilled at 1/8" so mark the 1/16" centers.

      Drill guide holes and then work up to 1/8"

      Cut out between the drilled holes.

      Cut some .03 x .1" styrene for the frame. Cut two pieces 15/16" and two pieces 3/8".

      Glue the top and bottom pieces to the back, flush with the edges.

      Once the top and bottom are dry, glue the sides into place. You may have to sand them a little to get a good fit.

      Cut a couple of base plates 7/8" x 3/8" out of 1/16" styrene. Sand them so that they fit nicely into the rear of the number board frames. If they are too tight, you'll pop the side frames.

      The number boards mount 1 1/2" from the bottom of the nose, 1/16" from the outer edge, and 1 3/16" from the center of the nose. Mount the base pieces centered within these marks, leaving room for the .03" frames. The right hand number board sits snug against the door hinge. Make sure you have enough space for the .03" frame to slide into place.

    • November 22, 2017 6:58 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Now for some detail. Cut eight pieces of .025" rod 1/8" long. Four will be for hinges, and four will be for wing screws.

      Cut four pieces of .03 x .1" styrene into squares.

      File one side into a nice curve.

      Cut four more pieces 1/16" long and mount them on the squared side.

      The hinge pieces mount on top 1/8" in from the edges. The above pieces mount on the bottom 1/8" in from the edges with the 1/16" piece down, larger curved piece up with the curve at the bottom. Then mount a piece of rod on top to represent the wing screws. Try to mount them at different angles. (painting note - these wing screws are unpainted brass)

      This post was edited by Shane Stewart at November 22, 2017 6:58 PM EST
    • November 22, 2017 7:49 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      Sand hatches. We're going to build three sand hatches. Two are for the nose, and one is for the tail.

      Front - two pieces of .03" styrene cut 1/2 x 5/16" and two pieces of 1/16" styrene cut 7/16 x 1/4".

      Rear - one piece of 1/16" styrene cut 1/2 x 5/16" and one 1/16" piece cut 7/16 x 1/4".

      Center and glue the smaller pieces on the larger ones. The lid of the tail end is thicker.

      Cut three pieces of .015 x .1" styrene 1/16".

      Mark a 1/8" section centered on the short side of the tail lid and centered on the long side of the front lids.

      Glue the little pieces you cut overhanging one side by half as shown.

      Cut six pieces of .015 x .1" styrene 3/16", and mark a line 1/16" from one end.

      Cut about 2/3 out of the 1/8" side.

      Mount these on the opposite side of the small tab along the lines you drew.

      Cut three pieces of .025" rod 1/8" long.

      Mount these as shown below at the base of the two thin pieces to represent hinges. File the top outside corners of the thin pieces to a slight curve. Leave the bottom squared.

      This post was edited by Shane Stewart at November 22, 2017 7:54 PM EST
    • November 22, 2017 8:19 PM EST
      • Sherwood Park, Alberta
         
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      The tail end hatch mounts centered and 1/4" in from the end. Facing the tail end, the hinge is towards the right.

      For the front hatches, draw a line on the nose from the back edge of the side corner curve up to the bend in the nose hood.

      The front hatches mount with the hinge towards the center of the nose. Looking at the hatch from above, line it up with the bend in the nose hood, and the line you drew. From above, it should stay within these two lines.

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