I have been making some christmas cars using the Hartland short car kits. I used Krylon short cuts cans of paint. They are small cans of spray from Hobby Lobby. Would it be best to leave them as is or coat them with a clear matte finish?. I dont want them to get scratched up… Any suggestions.

I usually give mine a few coats of a clear flat finish. Helps tone down the paint a bit. And it helps seal them if you’ve added decals to the car.

I am all for a clear coat. Will help with the scratches for sure. Make sure you test any clear you use on the paint first on a piece of scrap. They don’t all play nice.

I like the clear coat ACRYLICS made by Krylon. Flat, satin, and gloss. Just make sure it is the acrylic. They are indoor/outdoor. The first coat should be a light one, especially if over decals.

Travis

I agree with the addition of a clear coat. Krylon products are very good and affordable. If you want a higher end product I prefer Treehouse Gloss for sealer and Treehouse Matte for a final topping. These are available at Hobby Lobby with the other spray paints.

The matte looks and smells like Dull coat and has the same MSDS. So a lot cheaper than those little cans from Testor’s.

I very much agree with Devon and Paul’s comments on starting with a test or light first coat over decals. A warm day above 60 degrees is also advised.

oh and pictures…we want pictures Travis.

Travis Dague said:

I dont want them to get scratched up… Any suggestions.

Put them in a display case then

Boomer K. said:

Travis

I agree with the addition of a clear coat. Krylon products are very good and affordable. If you want a higher end product I prefer Treehouse Gloss for sealer and Treehouse Matte for a final topping. These are available at Hobby Lobby with the other spray paints.

The matte looks and smells like Dull coat and has the same MSDS. So a lot cheaper than those little cans from Testor’s.

I very much agree with Devon and Paul’s comments on starting with a test or light first coat over decals. A warm day above 60 degrees is also advised.

oh and pictures…we want pictures Travis.

Yup. I quit spending way too much money for Testor’s clear coats years ago. I use the Krylon line now.

One more thing with the spray cans. I usually hold the can under some hot water to warm it up. Seems to help with the spray.

Well Rooster, I want to give them a more protective coat of something. I know my daughter will bang em around a little bit… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Just a note from my end about the painting and over coating. I agree fully with Paul’s comments about the light first coat followed by wetter coats. Especially over decals. Also agree with the warm water “bath” to warm the paint and propellant.

Additional input… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

For many years, I used Krylon Acrylic Rattlecan Products with fairly good covering success except the lighter colors. Yellow, white, light reds. The product was compatible with most of the G gauge plastic rolling stock and locomotives. Most of the acrylic clear coats were quite good and compatible with the colors and compatible with most of the decal material used from our printers. Clear gloss, clear satin and clear semi-gloss. The regular Krylon can marked “FLAT” was not compatible with the decals and some of the paints. For a “dull coat”, the best Krylon product I’ve used (and still recommend} is the Krylon Matte in Can # 1311.

HOWEVER… As things have a tendency to change, (sigh) Krylon changed formulas and it became a real challenge to work with it. Enter Rustoleum 2x Painter’s Touch or American accents (depending on where you buy it) came on the market. Like Krylon, the colors are compatible with the trains, as are the clear products (Gloss and Satin). This is not the regular rust inhibiting Rustoleum product. It’s Rustoleum 2X on the can.

Just my 2 1/2 cents from bygone experience… So bygone that the railroad and workshop is gone. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

A word of instruction when painting models with “silver” and metallic paints…

You MUST, repeat MUST spray the models with a seal coat BEFORE applying the decals…

There can be a chemical reaction between metallic paint and the acrylic sealer which will slightly change the color of the silver paint. If the decals are applied to the model without the “undercoating” of clear, the transparent parts of then decal will show a different color… I’ve learned this the “hard way”.

Soooooooooooo… It’s my recommendation to mask or remove the windows and detail parts necessary, then using Rustoleum 2X Clear Satin, spray the entire model with light coats followed by wetter coats to completely seal all the metallic paint. Allow to cure for 2-3 hours, then you can apply the decals…

Once all the decals are applied and placed properly, allow the decals to dry thoroughly… 24 hours or more… Then, seal the decasls with the Rustoleum 2X Satin with light coats followed by wetter coats to completely seal the decals and entire model…

End result will be very nice looking models…

Hope this helps…

Personally, I still think the Krylon works quite well. I always use the gray sandable primer on every job just to ensure compatibility. This also lets me see any defects or contaminents (lint) at a point when they are easily remedied. My only complaint with Krylon is the terrible new actuator and nozzel. Walmart makes a Krylon-like lineup called “HomeAccents” which Ive found to be compatible with Krylon, but uses the old style spray actuator…and its cheaper!..and they have “Rockwall Canyon” green!

On my tie painting and rail staining experiments I’ve been using 2X as a sealer before using an enamel type color coat. I used left over Krylon Fusion clear uv with no ill affects. Just bought some Clear matte 2X to try…

Living down to it’s nick, Home Disappointment has a limited color selection of the Rustoleum line and no Krylon. Ace carries both lines, but is out of my way…

Hi Stan, I hope all is good for you.

John

I always put a clear of matte on my painted stuff but I prefer rustoleum paints to krylon.

a clear coat will protect your custom paint job and dull down any bright sheens.

Virtually everything I do gets a good coating of Krylon UV-resistant clear coat. Usually matte, sometimes gloss depending on the subject.

There are exceptions to this. For instance when Sophisticated Finishes iron/rust solutions won’t work with a clear coat and seem to hold up just fine without the extra UV protection.

Stan,

If one wants a gloss finish such as on passenger cars, is it okay to spray a gloss coat over the satin one?

Don

Hi Doc… Yup, you sure can… I would make some tests first as I’ve found the clear Rustoleum 2X can spray a bit unevenly. Maybe it’s just my “fat fingers” but I find that satin works so much better for me…

You might try warming the gloss can in hot water before spraying. That may “loosen” or shake up the propellant and clear material to work better.

Paints and sprays work differently in different areas of the county because of temperature and humidity changes. Mainly affected by humidity…

Hey, John… Yup, we’s doin’ good… Adjustment to apartment living has been overwhelming but we’s gettin’ there… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)Found out just after we moved that Kay has developed Fibrosis and is now on O2 24/7/365…

**Stan Cedarleaf said:**Hey, John… Yup, we’s doin’ good… Adjustment to apartment living has been overwhelming but we’s gettin’ there… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)Found out just after we moved that Kay has developed Fibrosis and is now on O2 24/7/365…

Oh dear. Tell her we say hello and will be thinking about her.

Don Watson said:
Stan, If one wants a gloss finish such as on passenger cars, is it okay to spray a gloss coat over the satin one? Don

Doc

I have had very good luck (on wooden cars, haven’t tried plastic yet) using Future Acrylic floor wax just wiped on with a soft cloth.

I have used this even over Krylon Camo (dead flat) colors with good results, of course that is not dealing with decals.

Rick

Rick Marty said:

Don Watson said:
Stan, If one wants a gloss finish such as on passenger cars, is it okay to spray a gloss coat over the satin one? Don

Doc

I have had very good luck (on wooden cars, haven’t tried plastic yet) using Future Acrylic floor wax just wiped on with a soft cloth.

I have used this even over Krylon Camo (dead flat) colors with good results, of course that is not dealing with decals.

Rick

When I was in the Navy, when I was running behind getting ready for an inspection, a quick and dirty spit shine could be had by using the same Future Acrylic Floor Wax on the shoes. All it took was a light coat put on with a cotton ball, and voila, instant mirror shine.

Steve Featherkile said:

Rick Marty said:

Don Watson said:
Stan, If one wants a gloss finish such as on passenger cars, is it okay to spray a gloss coat over the satin one? Don

Doc

I have had very good luck (on wooden cars, haven’t tried plastic yet) using Future Acrylic floor wax just wiped on with a soft cloth.

I have used this even over Krylon Camo (dead flat) colors with good results, of course that is not dealing with decals.

Rick

When I was in the Navy, when I was running behind getting ready for an inspection, a quick and dirty spit shine could be had by using the same Future Acrylic Floor Wax on the shoes. All it took was a light coat put on with a cotton ball, and voila, instant mirror shine.

Bingo, Steve.

When I worked security (in the military) instant spit shines like Future wax provided were a live saver, of course later working K9, shines were impossible to keep with dog prints all over your boots. Some of the guys in security even used to paint their boots with high gloss Varathane, looked really great until you walked and it started cracking and turning white under the shine. Ahhh The good ol days, thank God they are gone.