Large Scale Central

Aristocraft or USA Trains #6 Switch/Points

I have purchased one of each of #6 switches Here are my thoughts on these two switches

Aristocraft (there’s still some old stock)

  • Cheaper
  • Has a nicer manual flip switch but automatics would be harder to find
  • USA style ties (closer together)

USA Trains #6

  • Comes with remote abilities to switch (which I don’t care for)
  • The mechanism to switch is huge and the button to flip it is small.
  • Has the matching tie spacing for all my other track.
  • Its length is accurate.

Anyone have experience with either of these/pro’s and cons?

Anyone replace the USA Trains switch mechanism with a manual one and if so where did they get one that works?

I am tempted to just buy the remaining switches I need in Aristocraft because the manual switch is nicer and I don’t plan to run power to the switches (or the track for that matter).

I have already purchased a number of the Aristocraft parallel track adapters. These work with either.

If I was doing what you are I would go with the USA I like the frog and put the Bachmann switch stand on it. now that i have said something. you should get a lot of replies.

Richard Beverly said:

If I was doing what you are I would go with the USA I like the frog and put the Bachmann switch stand on it. now that i have said something. you should get a lot of replies.

Glad to know the Bachman switch stand works. I don’t want to bother with power, and in fact the switch mechanism I got had the lights wired funny. The red light and green light stay lit in the one direction which doesn’t seem right. I am not too worried about the switch since I intend to remove it. I don’t like it as a manual switch. Way to big and bulky. I found the bachman manual turn out switch online and it looks nice.

Is it just the USA frog that is nicer or is there more? I know that Greg talked about the switches on his site. He mentioned how the Aristo had straight guard rails but the Aristo I have doesn’t have that.

The Aristo switches that I see (new) right now are about 20 bucks cheaper and saving myself from buying the Bachman turnout switch stand also would save me another 10$. That is a savings of 30$ a switch.

One thing I have noticed is the dimensions of the Aristo switch I have are 900 mm for the length vs the USA Trains which is the 36". I used SCARM to spec out my layout and the size it claims Aristo switches should be is also 36". Very small difference (literally) but will make things line up for me a bit differently depending on which one I go with.

For battery power and brass track, I would go USAT

track power I do not like the USAT electrics to power the frog, they have been problematic

The aristo frog is cast pot metal, and does not weather well and can corrode and wear more easily

I use SS track and track power so I pretty had to go Aristo

I used RR track and it had the right dimensions for the Aristo switch, I figured that $99 was a pittance compared the money and time spent on the layout.

Greg

I’ve had Aristo Stainless #6’s out in the New England weather for well over 5 years. I haven’t noticed any wear on the frog, but I don’t run in circles and not that often. The Aristo manual throws have worked well for me too; still using the original springs. I no longer run track power, but when I did I didn’t have any problems with the micro switch or wiring that others have reported. Perhaps because my switches are all on concrete pads with no ballast to retain water.

We’ve been missing you, JC. What wildly imaginative additions have you made to the railroad?

I didn’t know you lived in New England…you sure know how to pick the extremes of weather on the planet: New England and Arizona? Have you considered a more temperate climate??? Ha !

Yours truly,

Your friend from Colorado, the climate capital of the world,

John Passaro

edit: geez I misspelled enough, omfg. Maybe I should read before I hit post?

John? Have you been hanging out at the dispensary??? I think you have me confused with someone else. I’m the guy that met you at Kevin’s and then again this summer at your shop with a box of books.

Confused Dr. John with another John?

Gerg… uh I mean Greg

Oh fer gudness sake…I got my John and Jon mixed up!

Radder you’ll be happy to know I got all those books you gave me put away and even read through half of one!

My apologies, sincerely,

orassaP nhoJ

p.s. I don’t need a dispensary to get confused.

edit: Gentlemen…I didn’t mean to get anyone upset, I got the little square pictures next to the names mixed up between John and Jon…I noticed that we hadn’t had an update on John Caughey’s railroad lately and wanted to see what he’s been up to.

Greg Elmassian said:

Confused Dr. John with Totalwrecker? (John Caughy)?

Gerg… uh I mean Greg

Mr. Greg,

This is the post you couldn’t find to clean up as I requested.

I have never used the nickname here and politely asked you to remove it, telling me to use an email isn’t very nice. So I dinged your rep this morning.

How do you get up on that horse?

Respectfully,

John CaughEy

Ahh…

  1. you were not polite, you were demanding and upset that I used your MLS nickname here. How the frig would I know it was secret?

  2. I ask people to email me because I read a bunch of forums and answering email an private messages is overload… and have for years, and I reserve the right to limit communications to what is most convenient… people get upset if you don’t answer them right away.

  3. “Not very nice” to tell you to use email to communicate? OK, here is your solution: do not ever communicate with me again as long as you live, your problem is now solved by the “not nice” guy that requested emails instead of private messages. Sorry to have ruined your life by trying to keep mine organized, and reply to the many people who ask me a lot of questions offline.

  4. Your nickname on MLS is secret from the people at LSC? Huh? If I had ANY inkling that you wanted to keep your MLS nickname secret, I would have never used it, SORRY!

Greg - the not very nice guy that really tries to keep up on email and the forums.

p.s. cute that you also “dinged” my reputation on this thread…

John Caughey said:

Greg Elmassian said:

Confused Dr. John with Totalwrecker? (John Caughy)?

Gerg… uh I mean Greg

Mr. Greg,

This is the post you couldn’t find to clean up as I requested.

I have never used the nickname here and politely asked you to remove it, telling me to use an email isn’t very nice. So I dinged your rep this morning.

How do you get up on that horse?

Respectfully,

John CaughEy

Just to throw out one more confusion.

There are at least 3 generations of Aristo #6 turnouts. The earliest had the problem of micro switches that have been reported here.

The more recent ones have improved points and a better designed micro switch.

The Generation Next turnouts are the latest design.

Stan

Ahhh yes…Generation next, or passed…?..!! Does the “Next” exist or has it passed…?

I’ve had the first two generations of #6 from Aristo, the only variance has been the guard rails, and there is some consistency that the later version was significantly under gauge in the middle of the switch.

I have not seen any difference in the microswitch, nor have I ever seen an announcement, they were touted as waterproof from the inception, but “water resistant” would have been more truthful.

I have also seen some variation in how the points were “fitted” to the stock rails, but almost every production run of switches had some differences.

I have not seen any from the late GeneratioNext, but would like to see them.

Stan can you post a picture of the better microswitch, and a detail on how the points fit to the stock rails? I would like to complete my knowledge on these switches.

Greg

Lets all play nice.

Greg Elmassian said:

I’ve had the first two generations of #6 from Aristo, the only variance has been the guard rails, and there is some consistency that the later version was significantly under gauge in the middle of the switch.

I have not seen any difference in the microswitch, nor have I ever seen an announcement, they were touted as waterproof from the inception, but “water resistant” would have been more truthful.

I have also seen some variation in how the points were “fitted” to the stock rails, but almost every production run of switches had some differences.

I have not seen any from the late GeneratioNext, but would like to see them.

Stan can you post a picture of the better microswitch, and a detail on how the points fit to the stock rails? I would like to complete my knowledge on these switches.

Greg

Greg

As far as I can tell the first 2 generations had the same configuration in the points area.

The micro switch has no adjustment, is exposed and never is fully released or set. A poor design.

http://largescalecentral.com/filesharing/file/view/35/v1-2-top-jpg

http://largescalecentral.com/filesharing/file/view/34/v1-2-bottom-jpg

Version 3 is similar in concept to the Y turnouts in the points area. The points are beveled at the top to they go into the rail (improved gauge in the points area)

The microswitch is now adjustable, easily replaced, covered by plastic, and is properly set/released.

http://largescalecentral.com/filesharing/file/view/37/v3-top-jpg

http://largescalecentral.com/filesharing/file/view/36/v3-bottom-jpg

Lots of failures with V1 and V2. None to date on V3.

Stan

Thanks Stan, looks like a better setup for the microswitch to be sure.

Having some adjustability, albeit by bending the microswitch lever, is better also.

On the points, I have seen the first generations with and without bevels on the top edge, and I have seen different treatments on the “undercut” of the points where they fit to the stock rails.

Could I use your pictures (with credit to you of course) on my site to show the 3rd gen differences?

Greg

Greg Elmassian said:

Having some adjustability, albeit by bending the microswitch lever, is better also.

On the points, I have seen the first generations with and without bevels on the top edge, and I have seen different treatments on the “undercut” of the points where they fit to the stock rails.

Greg

Greg

The improved #6 is very similar in design to the Y turnouts. One of the screws on top can ve loosened and the microswitch moved a little for adjustment. In the Y turnouts I have had to enlarge the adjustment hole when I put the points in gauge.

The only Stainless Steel #6 turnouts I have seen with a beveled point have been with the improved micro switch design. I am however confident I have not seen all versions.

Stan

Yep, I’ve seen a few, and it seems that there was a little “creative license” in the finishing of the points.

I guess you missed my last question, can I use your pictures on my site? Saves me from running a new one down and photographing one.

Greg

No clue which variation I have. The only thing I noticed for sure, was that it should supposedly be 36" and its just shy of that. It must be newer then version one since the guard rails are not straight but have the entry and exit bends.

Price wise I can get the Aristo’s cheaper right now then buying a USA Trains switch, then removing the automatic switcher and replacing it with a manual one.