Large Scale Central

Consecutive Rail Bending

So, I’ve finally moved the last 10 yards of dirt and its getting time to lay track on my railroad redo. My last line used all sectional track with some smaller (9 foot) diameter curves. This time around, I have planned for much bigger curves (20 foot and larger). I purchased an Aristocraft dual rail bender during their close out sale. My plan is to re-bend the 9 foot curves into larger curves- much larger. I have never used a bender, or in my case an un-bender, before. So, I’ve got some questions.

I’d like to attach several sections together and then unbend (re-bend) them as one long piece. Is there a limit to the amount of consecutive sections I can bend/un-bend?

Will the stock Aristocraft joiners be sufficient to hold everything together while I re-bend or should I use something more substantial- i.e. Hillman, Splitjaw, etc?

Thanks for your input.

-Kevin.

I wouldn’t put to many together , as you will be trying to move a long tail when bending.

Thanks, Sean. The 9 foot diameter pieces that I’m re-bending are not very long to start with. I’ve heard about people bending pieces of 8 foot long rail. Is an 8 foot length a reasonable amount to re-bend? Also, the rail joints will definitely end up getting staggered, but maybe thats okay. Your thoughts?

-Kevin.

8’ is workable .

You can add pieces as you go,Once you’re close to the right curvature.

As I said in your other thread, I haven’t found the Aristo double rail bender to be suitable for use over rail joiners. Perhaps your experience will be different.

as more than 80% of my layout consists of re-bent R1 curves, i have staggered joints on nearly every curve. makes for a less “kinky” flow of the curves.

judging from those benders, i have seen, i doubt, that they work with rail joiners.

there is another thought against bending long pieces. the long overhang might cause sideways torsioning.

The dual railbender I have will not work with the Aristo Joiners. I also broke Hillman’s clamps when I used those. The Split jaws work for me. Of course I am bending stainless steel rail, your experience with other metals may be different. Greg recommends using the longer (4 screw version) of the split jaws for bending rail, instead of the small 2 screw version.

Most tie strips have webbing between the ties on both sides, some do not. If yours does have it on both sides, you will want to cut the webbing on one side (under one rail). You will also want to remove the screws that hold the ties to the rails.

As for a long tail, it can be a fight if the ties don’t want to slide on the tail rails. For making the ties slide easier, both in bending and in putting them on bare rails, a misting with water and a little dish soap, or my favorite, Scrubbing Bubbles, helps things slide a lot easier.

When using a dual railbender, I prefer to do it on my porch. I have one large, flat, slab that I do my bending on. That way I don’t introduce a twist into the track by bending on an uneven surface. Your mileage may vary.

David when i bought my dual railbender about 10 years ago from Trainli he gave me 2 of the 4 screw clamps and said those where the only ones to use.

Richard, there you go.

  1. use SJ clamps when bending, the aristo ones will bend, not hold alignment, and sometimes hang up the bender.

  2. there’s really no “length” limitation… you are going to unwind 9’ diameter to 20’, so do it bit by bit… open the curves up until you get pretty close, and then start trimming rail.

  3. I do not recommend removing all the screws when bending, since there is nothing to hold gauge properly, i.e. the “spikes” have a lot of slop in them. At the minimum, leave one screw per rail , in the middle of each curve section.

  4. I was fine with the normal 2 screw split jaws, just again do it bit by bit.

Greg

Excellent info. Thanks to all!

-Kevin.

One thing might work and simplify things or save time:

take 2 curves, hook them together, now you can straighten them a bit… do the coarse “bending” in groups of 2.

Now you will see the inner rail is going to be too short. Now try bending one 9’ curved section backwards, completely reverse the curvature.

You might be able to work out a system where 3 sections of “relaxed” 9’ and 1 section of “reverse curved” 9’ make it so you can minimize rail cutting.

Experiment a bit, a dual rail bender is fun!

Greg

When bending a curve, I know the joints will become staggered, is there a point to where it becomes nessassary to cut the extra length? and do you cut it and add it onto the short side. I have not done any bending other than trying out my new bender in the house on some 6ft flex, so I am wondering what the best plan of attack will be .

Pete Lassen said:

When bending a curve, I know the joints will become staggered, is there a point to where it becomes nessassary to cut the extra length?

yes. at that point, where you want to connect to a straight, or to a switch.

when i re- or unbend my R1 stuff, i use the longer, outer rails to form the new curves, and the shorter inner rails for straights. (thus the “new” straight sections have the same length, as the original one foot straights) so the new curves always are staggered.

the off-cuts serve for making short sections, where necessary.

Yes the joints will become staggered. Staggered joints are more prototypical, but they can be a nuisance when it comes time to replace broken ties, or redo a section of track.

The Trainli bender will go over rail clamps and we suggest that the longer clamp be used when bending and split jaw for one mfg makes both a double long brass and stainless clamp.

Been having fun on a bender… I mean with the bender. The rail bender, that is.

Okay, then. Here’s a few observations:

  1. Re-bending the 9’ curves into 20’ curves seems to work best in pairs (joining two together at a time- textbook definition of pairs, I guess). I can bend three or more joined together, but the ties and joints (with rail clamps) start to fight one another.

  2. Bending really large pieces of straight flex track is totally doable. I’ve been bending 12’ lengths of AML flex track into 20’ and larger diameter curves (up to 28’ diameter curves) with absolutely no problem. In fact, I think my next plan is to straighten my remaining sectional curve track and use it as straights. The ends are already drilled and tapped for Aristo track joiners. Then just use the large 12’ length (two 6’ joined together) pieces of AML to do the remainder of the curves.

  3. I found it necessary to remove all the screws from the 9’ diameter curves in order to re-bend them into 20’ diameter curves. Leaving one screw per rail caused some binding of the ties (Hey, isn’t that a Springsteen tune? No wait… that’s “The Ties That Bind”). Perhaps it is possible to leave a screw in each rail if you initially start with a larger diameter.

  4. When bending curves, the type of clamp used to hold two sections together doesn’t seem to matter (for me, anyway). I use what I have on hand. So far I’ve had success with: Hillman, Split Jaw, and generic eBay clamps. I only own the two screw versions of these clamps (no 4 screw). I have had complete success with all of them. As noted earlier, I am using an Aristocraft Dual Rail Bender and I am bending/re-bending rail into some larger diameters. So, your mileage may vary.

  5. Bending rail is addictive. I wish I had all flex track right from the start. Sectional track is quicker, but this is freakin’ fun! I can bend what I want, when I want, how I want, where I want… “Want, want, want…” That’s the problem with kids these days. The instant gratification generation. You want to know what their problem is? I’ll tell you what it is… These kids haven’t spent any quality time with a dual rail bender. That’s the problem.

  6. There is no “5.” That’s right. I totally skipped “5” and jumped right to “6.” Let’s face it, you were so excited about reading the next entry that you totally missed the fact that there is no “5.” You’re smiling right now.

  7. You realize that I also skipped 8. You’re becoming cautious and reading the list very carefully, now. Checking each and every number to make sure I don’t fool you again. But, it’s too late. I’ve already got you a second time. That’s right. While you were being so overly cautious re-reading the numbers on the list, I tied your shoelaces together.

  8. Well, don’t you feel foolish. I know that you looked at your shoes to make sure I didn’t tie them together. Honestly, how could I have actually tied your shoelaces together. Heck, you’re probable not even wearing shoes. But you looked anyway. Go ahead, laugh at yourself.

-Kevin.

I have been a fan of flex track since my N scale days. you just have so much more flexibility. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)

So Kevin Devon are you going to put any track down to run trains? Hmmmmm

OK Dude of Diesels, or Kevin or whatever you are going by, its been almost a year, lets see some progress pictures or a train running would be better. it would be obvious a photoshop if it is a steam engine running around your layout