I’ve started purchasing buildings for my layout. I purchased a Piko Paul’ls Dry Goods building as completely assembled. But when it arrived it was all in pieces.

So, what type/brand of glue should I use to put it back together. It will be going outside.

Thanks!

E-6000

Matt, Jane has been using goop… Don’t matter what kind, it’s all the same…

Some modelers on here have been using E6000… I haven’t tried it, but I just recently picked some up to see how it works…

Like Andy says…ANY TYPE OF “GOOP”…there is one type that supposedly has protection from UV, but they all seem to be basically the same. On hand at this time; I happen to have “Plumbers’ Goop”, and it works well for just what your project is.

Matt, clean your building’s joints well, before you glue it back together. If there is still old glue left in the joints, then you are gluing to glue that is failing, instead of gluing to the plastic.

Thanks guys! Just got back from walmart with some e6000. Now…what did I do with my mini c-clamps. hmmmmmmm.

And corner clamps, and masking tape, and…

If your buildings will be outdoors, then consider “Super-gluing” your joints. After you get the structure built using whatever glue you prefer to use, get some silicone caulking and apply it liberally to the inside joints. Make sure that it is seated well on the plastic by using your finger, hopefully in a rubber glove. Also you might consider reinforcing the entire structure with some interior cross members. A good hardwood like Ipe or other mahogany will be the wood of choice as it is very stable and resists the elements and insects. Why should I worry about the elements if the wood is inside the building you ask. Dampness would be the number one reason. These members should run across the inside of the building bracing walls. Also install some diagonal braces from corner to corner.

I speak from experience, having had buildings out on my railway for many years. There will be times when the building might get kicked, as we are not all as gentle as we try to be. There is also the Sun to consider. It can do more damage than any weather that might be trying to harm your villages.

I always remember the story about an argument between the Wind and the Sun. Each boasted that they could get the coat off the man walking down the road. The Wind tried first. The harder he blew, the tighter the man’s coat became. Then the Sun’s turn. Within a few minutes the man took his own coat off.

E6000 works very well.

I usually apply it to the joints, put the structure together and “tack” it with hot melt glue. Note that hot melt glue sucks for building with but it dries fast and holds well while the E6000 dries. I add some more E6000 and then add styrene or wood battens over the joints giving the structure lots more strength.

I also used to use silicone in place of the E6000. It works just as well but the tubes would always dry out before I would get to use them again. All my buildings have stood up very well to the elements. I do bring them in for the winter though.

Terry

I typically use the Pola glue that comes with the kits. I find it is great for assembling the buildings as it sets up pretty quickly. The only problem is that over time it seems to fail in spots. As a result after the building is assembled I apply something like E6000 in the corners and other important structural joints to give a really permanent bond.

Ed

Ed, yes the Pola glue works well, but it does fail over time. But Matt had purchased a built up building that arrived in pieces. So he probably doesn’t have the glue that came with the kit originally.

I’ve had a Pola/Piko coaling tower and water tank out in the weather year round for over 17 years. I used the glue that came with the kit and nothing has fallen apart yet.

Doc Watson

I have had E6000 & Goop fail after a number of years outdoors.
The only building I’ve had not just “fall apart” was a resin kit assembled with Super Glue.

I think the old “solvent” glues from years ago that “welded” the plastic were far superior.
But thanks to the “glue sniffers”, these are now so weak in formulation that they no longer work.
A case in point is the “Testers” glue. Used to work great. Not so much anymore.

I have several glues I’m going to try on the next round of building reassembly.
Weld-On 16 and Professional Welder by Homax.
We’ll see how these work out.
Ralph

If you have plastic that can be welded with solvent glue, just get a can of MEK from the hardware store, it’s still available after all these years, and was the basis of these solvent glues.

The question is more if the plastic is close to styrene, what the “old” models were made of.

I thought the Pola kits were sort of an unusual plastic, thus solvent welding was not as effective.

Greg

Ralph, I gave up on the Testor’s glue a long time ago. I prefer Tennex.

I have good luck with;

Ambroid’s Pro Weld

Sez it’s good for; Styrene, Butyrate, ABS and Acrylic (Lucite and Plexiglas)

Key ingredient; methylene chloride.

John

I’ve used Ambroid Pro Weld too.
Somehow it always mysteriously evaporates between uses.
No matter how tight I have the lid screwed on, I always find an empty bottle when I go to use it again.

MEK is, as Greg says, the basis for the solvent glues.
Unfortunately, I can’t find it around here.
Ralph

Ralph, acetone can also be used. Its not quite as potent as MEK, but it will weld plastic.

Ralph, I found MEK in the can in Home Depot and Lowes in the paint department, right next to the acetone, lacquer thinner, etc.

Greg

If you can buy MEK in Cali, you must be able to get it in NC

I was lazy and used what I had laying around last spring when I did a quick and dirty restoration to put a few used buildings out: 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive. Ask me in the spring if it held over the winter!