Large Scale Central

Finally got a trailer battery car...

by making one, since the Aristo-Craft version seems to be one with the unicorn.

Now I have six big Aristo-Craft diesels with the little MU leads on 'em, and a bunch of Tamiya r/c car connectors…

What to do next?

Controller options are easily sorted out with Mr Walsham’s friends here in UK, but is there anything special about these connectors that I need to know before I go snipping?

TIA

tac
Ottawa Valley GRS

The OVRS web site has lots of info and there maybe a few Aristo stock cars with TE (27MHz.) RX possibly still around. Star Hobby did have some - I got one last year. Worth a try I guess.

Yep, should have looked at Paul Norton’s posts there.

Must be the inclement weather making me forgit.

tac

I don’t snip off the Aristo connectors, I buy mating connectors from All Electronics. This leaves your options open for MU etc. True, the Aristo plug will not handle a lot of current but I have MUed 3 RS-3’s to a trail car using them with no problem.

If you buy them from All Electronics just be cautious of polarity. Their Red is not always the same polarity as Aristo’s red.

I use the Tamiya connectors between the battery pack and R/C board for quick battery swap.

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post2/CheesySoundV3-09.jpg)

Hi Terry.

John is correct re the polarity of the wiring pigtails.

As long as you remember the trail car does exactly what track power would do if the switch was thrown.

The lights and smoke etc will vary with the amount of voltage applied to the loco. The lights will be off when the loco is stationary.

Some Aristo Locos have the pigtails wired incorrectly too. I think mainly the Dash - 9.

Some SD-45’s are not properly isolated from the track on both sides. Fine if nose to tail but back to back can cause a short.