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  • Topic: Union Pacific CA-1 Caboose

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    • January 6, 2014 8:19 PM EST
      • Coeur d' Alene,, Idaho
         
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      After looking at the available proto typical cabooses for Union Pacific on the market the only thing I could find was the CA-1 caboose manufactured by Accucraft.  The only problem with this one is its 1/32 scale, costs $395.00, and I model in 1/29 scale.  So I decided to scratch build my own CA-1 class caboose in 1/29 scale.  Mind you; this will be a close replica but not a perfectly scaled model.  I live by the 10’ rule.

       

      With the help of fellow LSC members Matt Kerr and John Bouck I was directed to a couple of sites where I obtained a set of drawings and a complete breakdown of information on all the CA-1 cabooses that Union Pacific’s made with numbering sequence and color.  I also found a builders original photo for reference.

       

      I started by copying the drawings to my “Scale Print” program and printed out a 1/29 scale drawing that I could use for reference.


      Then I found a few items that I could use for the body of the caboose and the underbody frame with steps.  I purchase several of these items years ago on E-bay and just recently found them again.  The body is a Delton Reefer and the frame is from Kalamazoo but I don’t know what type of car.  The funny thing about these two items is that they are the perfect width and height for 1/29 scale rolling stock; you just have to cut and paste pieces together for the proper length of what ever you want to make.


      In this picture you will see that I cut the frame to get the proper distance between the edge of the steps and the truck bolster.  This will allow me to use proper caboose trucks or the smaller passenger trucks that these cabooses actually traveled on.


      The next pictures shows the body cut down to its proper size with clear acrylic plastic pieces added to both ends for support and the side door openings filled in.  Then you will see the cut down body next to an original body.  And finally the cut down body with the styrene siding temporarily attached with spring clamps.


      That’s the progress so far.  Enjoy!!  

      This post was edited by Chuck Inlow at January 6, 2014 8:22 PM EST
    • January 6, 2014 9:02 PM EST
      • Spokane Valley, Washington St.
         
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      Good start, Chuck.


      But I thought that the CA1 was a "wooden" caboose.  :-)

    • January 7, 2014 12:46 AM EST

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      I cannot wait to see the end result.

    • January 7, 2014 12:27 PM EST
      • Coeur d' Alene,, Idaho
         
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      A little more progress last night as I cut out some of the cupola parts. I started by cutting the main frame out of clear acrylic plastic.  Then I laid out the side and end profiles on the scribed styrene and cut the pieces out.  All I need to do now is glue the basic frame together.  Then cut out the window openings in the styrene and glue the pieces to the frame.  The first picture shows the parts.


      I also decided how I was going to make my roof because I want it to lift off.  Because the roof on the CA-1 caboose is curved I needed to design my own roof trusses.  Then I made a jig to hold the trusses based on my layout.  The jig will allow me to clamp the roofing material down to the curved trusses and hold that configuration until it is dry.  At least that’s the plan but I have to wait to test it all out until my material gets here.  I have include a picture of my jig and the trusses.


      That’s all for now.  

    • January 7, 2014 12:32 PM EST
      • Burke, Virginia
         
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      Neat project.  I'm a big fan of acrylic for a lot of parts.

      I like that jig.   That's a good idea for helping the roof to be removable.   Now, how did you get all of your trusses so even?

      ____________________________________

      Bruce

      http://jbrr.com/

       

    • January 7, 2014 9:51 PM EST

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      Clever use of materials Chuck!

    • January 7, 2014 10:23 PM EST
      • Coeur d' Alene,, Idaho
         
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      @Bruce I'm really not sure how all the trusses came out the same.  All the trusses are cut from a piece of 1/8 bass wood that is 3-5/8" long by 1/2" wide. Then I transfer the arched top from a template I made out of the same size of material. Cut the excess off on my band saw and finish sand the arch on a disk sander to match the pencil mark of the arch. It worked out OK.

      @Jerry thanks.

      @John it is a wooden caboose, it just has scribed styrene sides to look like wood because I couldn't find any real scribed wood siding in my supplies.

    • January 7, 2014 10:29 PM EST
      • romeoville, illinois
         
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      Its coming out nice Chuck. What are you using to glue the acrylic ?

    • January 8, 2014 10:02 AM EST
      • Spokane, WA
         
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      not bad Chuck I will be anxious to see the end result.

    • January 8, 2014 10:14 AM EST
      • Spokane Valley, Washington St.
         
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      All you gotta do is ask, Chuck. :-)
    • January 9, 2014 9:39 PM EST
      • Settle Down Boomer ,
         
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      Looks great so far Chuck....What is going to be the main roof material?

    • January 13, 2014 11:00 PM EST
      • Coeur d' Alene,, Idaho
         
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      Well we have a little more progress tonight.  I glued up the roof in the jig I made.  I added a couple of end pieces to the jig so that I could use then to center the roof onto the trusses.  I put a thin layer of wood glue on the trusses, laid the roof on top of the trusses, and clamped it all down.  I'll let it sit over night in the house and remove it from the jig in the morning.

      More to come!!!

    • January 14, 2014 2:16 PM EST

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      Looks good. I've found I prefer the scribed styrene to the wood. As the wood expands and contracts with moisture, the "sections" of wood sheathing become apparent over time. Styrene doesn't do that. So--anymore--unless I'm doing a car that I specifically need to have real wood siding (for weathering or whatever purpose), I'll use the styrene. Much more stable over the long term, and--once painted--you're not going to tell the difference.

       

      Later,

       

      K

      ____________________________________
    • January 14, 2014 5:46 PM EST
      • Coeur d' Alene,, Idaho
         
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      I agree Kevin thats why the rest of the car is sheeted with scribed styrene.  I used the wood for the roof because it was FREE and I don't let anything go to waist.  I removed the roof from the jig this morning and I like how it came out.  I'll have to get some pictures later tonight.

      Chuck

    • January 14, 2014 6:29 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Looking good so far Chuck. About a year after I sold off my Delton Classics collection I realized that the trucks, Couplers and other parts could be used in projects and cost more to replace than I sold the cars for. I still have a few left that are no longer for sale :]

      This post was edited by Jon Radder at January 14, 2014 6:30 PM EST
      ____________________________________

      www.cvsry.com www.cvsry.com

    • February 23, 2014 11:31 PM EST
      • Coeur d' Alene,, Idaho
         
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      It's been a while since my last update but I wanted to wait until after the "Miks Build Logs" were done. There so many great projects I just didn't want to distract from them.

      The roof came out of the jig looking great. In the first picture you can see that I already cut out the area for the cupola. Inside the opening I glued the clear plastic frame for the cupola and then covered it with the scribed styrene siding with the window cut outs.




      Then I moved onto the main body of the caboose. After cutting the window openings in the styrene I placed them on the main body so that I could trace the openings. Then I removed the styrene and cut out the window openings in the main body. After that I glued the scribed styrene siding to both of the sides and ends on the main body. The next two pictures so the progress thus far.







      The last picture shows the roof section placed on the caboose body. It's actually starting to look like a CA-1 caboose. Thats all for now, enjoy!!!!


    • March 7, 2017 8:01 PM EST
      • Coeur d' Alene,, Idaho
         
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      Wow!!!  I can't believe it's been over two years that this project has been sitting on the bench.  No wonder we started the saying about Devonating or Butt Modeling.  I guess I've been doing both and didn't realize it.

       

      I wanted to bring this back to the front as it's back in production.  Several of our club members now have 3D printers and one of these gentlemen printed me out the windows I needed for this project.  So I'm currently filing out the openings so they fit and then I can glue them in.  I'll get some pictures as I'm progressing along and get them posted in the next few days. 

    • March 7, 2017 10:21 PM EST
      • Settle Down Boomer ,
         
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      Well at least I'm not the only slacker! Looking forward to pics Chuck.

    • March 8, 2017 3:49 AM EST
      • Burbank, CA
         
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      Chuck,

      I'm watching this build with a great deal of interest. I used these same plans and a HO model to build my 1/8 scale wood caboose over 37 years ago! But I made a major "mistake" on my caboose when I moved the cupola to make more seating room for the "brakeman" riding this car :). Notice the last window on the side is directly under the cupola.

      This is the way the car looked when it was originally made. No lettering and all red.

       

      The way it looks now, recently restored. Lettering wasn't completed when this photo was taken.

       

      Marker lights, lettering finished. Note the window arrangement on the sides and on the cupola. We have the same caboose. :)

      You have a great build so far. Awesome work.

    • March 8, 2017 2:16 PM EST
      • Spokane Valley, Washington St.
         
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      I knew you could do it, Chuck!

      Is it done yet?

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