Forums » Gardening

List of newest posts

    • April 23, 2017 1:19 AM EDT
    • I had to look this up, didn't know about it. Daaaang.

      http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/hot_topics/2010/03artillery_fungus.html

      During the cool, moist spring and fall temperatures, the artillery fungus produces very small, cup-like fruiting bodies on pieces of wood in the mulch. From these reproductive structures, the fungus is capable of shooting its sticky, black spore packages as far as 6 to 8 feet up and 20 feet out from the infested mulch. They will adhere tightly as if super-glued to the paint on a car, to the siding of a home and even to nearby plant foliage.

      ...

      Alternatively, one may remove the wood and bark mulch and replace it with synthetic mulch, such as shredded rubber mulch and artificial pine needles. These should last much longer and not provide a medium for growth of fungi. Groundcovers may be used in lieu of thick mulch in beds, and dense groundcover growth will help prevent the sporulation by the artillery fungus.

      http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/d/d/ddd2/

      Q7: Why do light-colored houses and cars have more problems than darker cars and houses?
      A: In nature, the artillery fungus shoots its spores towards sunlight to aid in dispersal. In the absence of direct sunlight, it shoots the spores at highly reflective surfaces, such as white house siding. And, of course, the black spots show up better on white surfaces, so they are noticed more easily.

      Q8: The artillery fungus problem seems to be much more severe now, than in the good old days. I don’t remember this being a problem 20 - 25 years ago. Why is it now a problem?
      A: This is a tough question. Wider recognition and awareness of the artillery fungus by the public certainly has led to a perceived increase in the problem. However, I think the problem is also realistically more severe than in past years, partly due to increased use of landscape mulch. There is more mulch being used these days, and therefore, more favorable material for the artillery fungus in our urban and suburban areas.

      The artillery fungus may be just as common out in mulched flower beds far away from your house, but it is not noticed at that location. But, put the same mulch (and artillery fungus) next to your house foundation, add a white or reflective siding, and you may have a severe problem!

      In addition, it is my experience that the artillery fungus seems to prefer wood as opposed to bark. Much of the mulch that we use today is recycled wood – in the past, most mulch was bark. In addition, the finely-shredded mulches used today hold more moisture than the older coarsely ground mulches – this favors fungi, because they need moisture to survive and sporulate.

      Sporulate, there's a word I'd not have expected.

      Sounds like something which should be said with a hillbilly accent.

      (and now I can see a horse drawn wagon its side emblazoned with "Augustus Flinstock's world famous patented anti-sporulation tonic")

    • April 23, 2017 12:36 AM EDT
    • Don't know anything about it but have you looked at the ground rubber mulch made from old tires?

    • April 22, 2017 10:03 PM EDT
    • I believe it needs organic materials to grow, so stone might not be a problem but stone holds so much heat in the summer it dries out my plants. I know this is a lot to ask, but if I decide to switch can anyone recommend a ground cover for zone 5 in the northeast?

      Thanks

      Steve

    • April 22, 2017 7:59 PM EDT
    • I've heard about this stuff, sounds horrible. Steve, I might suggest rocks stone or gravel as a replacement for the mulch. You could pick a special color size or style you like.

      Can anyone in the know tell me will Steve have trouble with the mold growing in tha areas where the mulch was? Like on his new stones he's using in its place? Could it grow if one of his buildings? Or does it need the moist mulch?

    • April 22, 2017 7:53 PM EDT
    • Greg said: eradicate

    • April 22, 2017 7:04 PM EDT
    • You are screwed, no known way to eradicate it, and the spores are nasty as you have found, and normally they have to be removed by mechanical means.

      Also, pretty funny, that the fungus is light sensitive, so it tends to shoot the spores towards light colored objects, your buildings!

       

      You will have to remove the mulch and scrape your buildings.

       

      Sorry to hear about this.

       

      Greg

    • April 22, 2017 5:23 PM EDT
    • Last year I had a terrible problem with artiary fungus growing in my mulch. It shoots its spores quite far as a small tar like black/brown dot which sticks to everything like super glue but even more difficult to remove. I spent all winter mechanically removeing the spores with an exacto blade. Some of my buildings and rolling stock had hundreds of spots on them. I have spent the last two weeks removing the old mulch. I like the look of the mulch and except for this issue was happy with mulch. Now I am looking for ideas to solve this issue. I have read there is no proven way to stop, kill or prevent the fungus from growing. I am hesitant to grow ground cover due to time, watering, weeds and lack of green thumb. Anyone had experience with this? You may have seen it on your car or house siding and widows.
      Thanks for reading.
      Steve

    • April 8, 2017 12:00 PM EDT
    • You mean to tell me there was an album inside.

      Steve

    • April 8, 2017 11:21 AM EDT
    • I tried some Thyme once. Can't remember the type. It was sage green and as it spread kept dying in the center. So it looked like thyme circles.

      That went to the compost heap. Found some other kind that grows so fast it crosses the rails almost over night. 

      I'm done with ground covers. I use a ground cover called "Roundup" now. Works great. No pruning, watering or anything required.

    • March 17, 2017 7:48 AM EDT
    • Boyyyy do I ever remember album cover that from childhood! 

    • March 17, 2017 1:54 AM EDT
    •  

       

    • March 16, 2017 10:46 PM EDT
    • I personally think that the buttermilk with whipped cream will work best on Kate Moss and almost any plant that is Turkish isn't available in the US.

       

       

      This post has been edited by : Rooster

    • March 16, 2017 10:29 PM EDT
    • PLEASE NOTE:  What I plugged was "Turkish Speedwell ( Veronica Liwaeensis)."  This plant is NOT available even to nurseries as seeds!!  There are several hundred varieties of "Speedwells"  many are available as seeds, and several places tried to sell me seeds for other variants of "Speedwells".

       

      I now believe that one original 3" plant can become 5+  by the end of the first season.  I quickly learned to split one into two,  then two into four.

       

    • March 16, 2017 7:55 PM EDT
    • I get the idea that the moss milkshake works better with some types of mosses then others. I tried it with the moss I have growing in the backyard, and all I got was a puke brown stain on the rocks where I put it.

    • March 16, 2017 4:24 PM EDT
    • Thanks guys...

        Fred Mills

    • March 16, 2017 3:27 PM EDT
    • Moss, plus buttermilk, liquefied in the blender, and painted on where you want it to grow.

    • March 16, 2017 3:20 PM EDT
    • Fred Mills, BSc, (Sd, ss) said:

          What goes into that "Moss Milk shake", It seems to me that I have heard of using milk to stimulate the growth of moss.....any more information on this ?

         Fred Mills

       

      http://www.marthastewart.com/271913/gardening-with-moss

       

      https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=moss+milkshake+diy&*

    • March 16, 2017 3:00 PM EDT
    • Simon and Gar...great, real music.......

          What goes into that "Moss Milk shake", It seems to me that I have heard of using milk to stimulate the growth of moss.....any more information on this ?

         Fred Mills

    • March 16, 2017 1:53 PM EDT
    • you asked...............