If those cigars come in tubes, cut them and use them for pipe loads.  Battery people could hide rechargeable AAA batteries in them!!

Dan, I run long trains on steep grades, and smoke and sound often with 2 to 4 speakers, and I let the trains run for hours, often leaving them running when I go to home depot, etc.

So track power is it for me, also, I hate having to permanently couple a trailing car to a small loco because there's no room for batteries. I also like powerful smoke systems in steamers, which can consume 1.5 amps alone.. I could not go battery without having to give these things up.

p.s. When you come out to San Diego, I'll provide the cigars:

I got it to fit, tucked up under the roof above the bathroom.  Didn't think it would but there was just enough space without using standoffs and by moving the cap and Bridge a bit to clear the stove pipe.  Will that unit get hot enough to melt the plastic?   Thanks again for the info. 

I'm a "Roundy Rounder."  I like to run my trains on auto for hours while I sit by the fire pit, drinking and smoking cigars.  Once running, I don't mess with them except to add more smoke fluid, or fix the very occasional derail.  I don't want to worry about batteries running out of juice. 

I know the new tech is wayyy better than my old RC Car batteries, but I hated dealing with batteries back when I was racing the cars.  I don't want to deal with that again, at all. 

I also don't see the point of using alkaline batteries for car lamps when I have a perfectly good power source underfoot.  I like to tinker so modifying the lamp circuit once is not a negative, especially during this COVID lockdown.  

As far as cleaning, I have a track cleaning loco I use once a year.  My Bobber has the LGB cleaning pads under it and that seems to be enough.    

Dan

Bill, I cannot imagine why anyone would use battery power and give up smoke units in the loco, or not be able to have fully lighted cars, or would want to change batteries...

See, I can make the same point as you, but in reverse easily.

It all depends on what you want... if you just want a couple of lights that is cool, but if you want fully lighted cars, or smoke units, or trains that are ready to run always, or have cars with incandescent bulbs (I am NOT tearing open 10 streamline cars to change to LEDs), then track power makes sense.

The point is people have different priorities, and different needs, so you needs being different does not mean everyone else has the same priorities as you.

Greg

p.s. after 2 years most batteries leak and corrode the battery box..

I seriously doubt I will switch to battery power any time soon.    

That step up/step down converter.  Its about 1"x2"  

Just don't understand the compulsion to light using track power, with a $.99 battery holder a $1.00 switch and $1.00 piece of styrene 2 dime 10mm LED's you can battery power it and two years later when you decide to switch from track power to onboard battery your cars will still light

What did you buy/use? You mentioned the cap, but what "big circuit board" is this?

Greg

ITS ALIVE, ALIVE!  Works like a charm, no flicker at all through my switches.  

Thank you, again.  

Now, to figure out where the hide this big circuit board in my coaches.  I found a spot in the combine test car.  But the bathroom and stove are in the way in the coaches.

I ended up using a 470uf 35v cap since I had one on hand and the ones I ordered are delayed for a few weeks due to shipping issues. 

Greg as per previous post it is a PIKO system with measuring track voltage is 12-13v

This is a video with decoder, Sierra and Sierra connected with motor

I give up.

You posted that you eliminated the regulator and just put a cap there... I told you that is dangerous and asked what the voltage was, has to be about 16 volts.

Now you have put the 6v regulator back in place and shown me that, which was no issue, except that it might overheat the regulator.

There are many questions I asked to try to help, which you did not answer, like track voltage, voltage without regulator, etc.

Have fun.....  I give up.

This is with Sierra connected but not motor connection 

Here is voltage

OK, let's not get confused here.

The battery/power terminals, the 2 pin connector with red and black should not run over 12 volts, I quoted you what will happen if you exceed it. It turns out that screw terminals #2 and #4 are connected to the red and black also. Tony is not meaning to confuse you, he and TOC use the screw terminals to avoid using that connector. No difference in operation.

As Tony says, the "speed sense" leads that are connected to the motor can take a higher voltage, but that does not matter here.

Would you PLEASE verify the stuff I am asking you? What voltage are you presenting to the red and black power leads? If it is over 12 volts you should destroy the sound card in short order as I already posted.

Greg

Not to derail the tread too much but if one was to bench test a Sierra board, what pins to use?

Edit: Got the answer from TOC. Nevermind.

Hi Greg.

I can confirm the # 7 & # 8 track pick up terminals can handle whatever the max voltage rating is for the sound system.

Terminals # 2 & # 4 have a maximum voltage input of 12 volts.

I only know about the Sierra with battery power and not track power of any type.

So are you saying terminal 7&8 should only have 12v max? Or the red and black wire connection?

Should last about 1 day at that voltage...  good luck...  (should be no more than 12 volts, Tony will confirm)

if you measure voltage from the decoder you should see 16v plus

Greg