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    • September 6, 2019 1:52 PM EDT
    • Yeah, but do they flicker? Most leds stay on solid, and some blink, but flickering?

       

      Greg

    • September 6, 2019 9:53 AM EDT
    • Made mine out of a $5.00 voltage reducer board and 1 yellow and 1 red 3mm LED works great

    • September 6, 2019 12:38 AM EDT
    • There is the Massoth Firebox Light module.  I purchased one for my Bachmann Heisler but haven't gotten around to installing it yet.  I'm assuming that it will work as advertised.

    • September 5, 2019 11:35 PM EDT
    • Contact TOC, and you can identify the board(s) perhaps he has some... you might also contact people who do the conversions and still tear out all the boards.

       

      Greg

    • September 5, 2019 5:14 PM EDT
    • Thanks Greg.  So since I could not find a separate board for the flicker lights in the Ash Pan and Fire box I decided that it really was not needed for what I will be using this locomotive for.  Then as Greg said I might need to leave the main board in and power them from that board.  Since I had not removed all of the wires from the main PCB I connected power back up to it.  The fire box lit up and flickered.  The Ashpan did not since I had already removed those wires.  So I proceeded to remove the remaining wires.  I then tried it again.  Nothing this time.  Then I saw that I had removed 6 wires that went to another PCB.  So I soldered those 6 wires back on.  (What a pain in the A$$ that was).  Well that worked.  The firebox lit up again.  So I then proceeded to solder on the 3 wires for the Ashpan.  I would get one soldered on and one of the other wires would break off.  Anyway after finally getting them all soldered back on I tried it again and NOTHING worked.  So somehow I must have fried the PCB with all of the heat I was using to solder the wires on.

      I contacted Bachmann to see if I could buy another PCB.  The one they use now does not match the one I have and they do not have anyother replacements.  So if anyone has a spare or one they have taken out for their battery/rc conversion please let me know and what you are willing to let it go for.

      If all else fails I will just not have the Firebox and Ashpan flicker.  Most people would not see it anyway.

      Thanks again for all of the help.

      Colin

       

       

       

    • September 3, 2019 9:53 PM EDT
    • If you have the same flicker board as this diagram, it will take track voltage:

       

      But if you don't have this separate board, and the filcker comes from the main board, it's a different case. This is from George's site.

       

      If you are just trying to hook directly to the LEDs, yes, you will burn them out and they will not flicker.

       

      Update:  https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/82494.pdf  shows the wiring...

       

      The flicker circuit is on the main board. So you would want to power the main board to get it to flicker... I would get a separate flicker board if you want them to flicker.

       

      Greg

    • September 3, 2019 9:11 PM EDT
    • Mark, there are 3 wires to both the ashpan and the firebox.  So acording to George Schreyer there is a Red and a Yellow LED.  So I assume that one wire goes to the red and one goes to the yellow LED and the other is the common.  I am concerned that the LED's will not take 14.8 v. or 16.6 v when fully charged and will burn out.  I guess I need to run it at track power and test the voltage output to the LED's in the ashpit and fire box.

       

    • September 3, 2019 8:24 PM EDT
    • I have a 2 truck Shay that I converted to the RailBoss 4 RC.  I am relatively certain that I just hooked the two wires of the flicker board to the battery (14.8v) terminals on the RailBoss board.  It does ficker at a constant rate and does not flicker faster or slower based upon the engine's speed which is good enough for me.  I did this a number of years ago and did not take very good notes so I'd have to disassemble it to check my recollection. 

       

      You might want to review your wiring diagram for your engine to see if something similar would work for you.  There is also a discussion on George Schreyer's site regarding the Flickering Firebox and Cab Lights, perhaps there is something suitable there for you.

    • September 3, 2019 7:56 PM EDT
    • Colin Criswell said:

      I am currently installing R/C and battery power in a Bachmann 3 truck Shay that I have had for about 5 years.  I am using the Revolution for the R/C.  I have the wiring diagram that Bob Hyman had put together, but he used the Air Wire and Phoenix Sound.  I have also found 2 videos on YouTube that pretty much walks you through the installation, however they also used the Air Wire System.  I have figured almost everything out for the installation of the Revolution with the exception of the Firebox light and the Ash pan flicker lights.  Has anyone installed the Revo in a Bachmann 3 truck Shay and if so how do you wire the Firebox and Ashpan flicker lights.  All help and suggestions would be appreciated.

      Thanks in advance,

      Colin Criswell

       

      Colin,

       

        This is a pretty heavy question!  I cannot help the however, I believe there are a few that can. Nice to see you posting questions !

       

      This post has been edited by :Rooster......never put a comma after HOWEVER

    • September 3, 2019 7:26 PM EDT
    • I am currently installing R/C and battery power in a Bachmann 3 truck Shay that I have had for about 5 years.  I am using the Revolution for the R/C.  I have the wiring diagram that Bob Hyman had put together, but he used the Air Wire and Phoenix Sound.  I have also found 2 videos on YouTube that pretty much walks you through the installation, however they also used the Air Wire System.  I have figured almost everything out for the installation of the Revolution with the exception of the Firebox light and the Ash pan flicker lights.  Has anyone installed the Revo in a Bachmann 3 truck Shay and if so how do you wire the Firebox and Ashpan flicker lights.  All help and suggestions would be appreciated.

      Thanks in advance,

      Colin Criswell

    • September 2, 2019 9:01 PM EDT
    • At the risk of disagreeing with Greg, that may be an insult to Yugos. ;)

       

      The whistle is an okayish-quality digital recording of a whistle on the order of something you'd hear from a greeting card. Curiously, it's the same whistle I have coming from the clock in my workshop (which I've long since turned off.) The bell rings for 4 dings then stops--a bit short in my opinion. The chuff is controlled by the track input voltage. There's a potentiometer that allows you to adjust it to kind-of match the wheels, but when the speed changes, so does the pitch of the chuff. Not ideal for a loco that changes speeds frequently.

       

      If you're looking for something that's just going to put a generic chuff sound in a steam locomotive that's just going to be running around the track at a constant speed, this will do it. Throw the occasional magnet on the track to trigger the whistle and be happy. But don't expect it to be anything more than very basic. 

       

      Later,

       

      K

    • September 2, 2019 10:09 AM EDT
    • Adam Dziuk said:
      Bill Barnwell said:

      + I'm still wrestling with making a custom battery as there isn't much room in the tender section of the mason bogie and the only spot left is the boiler which is long and skinny, thanks for the input, Bill   

       

      One other question Bill,

      If you're having issues finding room for 4 li-Ion 18650 batteries, where are you planning to fit the 3 AA batteries that power the Hyde-Mountain sound card?

       

      Adam

      was going to try and pick it up off the main battery

       

    • September 2, 2019 9:07 AM EDT
    • Well David there yugo derailing a thread.

    • September 2, 2019 7:38 AM EDT
    • Back then (1988) I talked my mom out of buying a Yugo. She ended up buying a Mazda 323. Once I taught her how to drive it, it was a stick, she ran that thing for over a decade. She loved her little Mazda. I would hate to think what would have happened if she had bought a Yugo.

       

      So, now we have done it, totally derailed yet another thread.........

    • September 1, 2019 2:27 PM EDT
    • Well this Yugo had an asking price of $14,500 in July of 2010!  

       

      Obviously there's a big difference between asking and getting.  Not too bad of a "return on investment" for a $4,000 car from the 80's, assuming that you just parked it?  Since they broke a lot that's probably what happened to this one with its low mileage.

       

      Sorry for the digression, but a friend of mine had a Yugo for about month and only lost about $1000 when he sold it soon thereafter; not fun.

    • September 1, 2019 1:55 PM EDT
    • Bill Barnwell said:

      + I'm still wrestling with making a custom battery as there isn't much room in the tender section of the mason bogie and the only spot left is the boiler which is long and skinny, thanks for the input, Bill   

       

      One other question Bill,

      If you're having issues finding room for 4 li-Ion 18650 batteries, where are you planning to fit the 3 AA batteries that power the Hyde-Mountain sound card?

       

      Adam

    • September 1, 2019 1:46 PM EDT
    • Adam, you are correct I just over looked the part about volume adjustable, and the graphics sound is a good deal for the money and I could have got it when it was on sale for $67.00, if I get the Hyde-out one I plan to use it in one of my other little engines after done with it in the MB. have a friend that said he added a capacitor to the whistle and made it sound longer but it would just be for the mean time till finances are built back up, thanks again, Bill  

    • September 1, 2019 1:19 PM EDT
    • Hi Bill,

      The ebay listing says "Sound volume is adjustable".

      If you didn't like the MyLocoSound whistle, of which there are a few to choose from, then you probably won't like the Hyde-Out Mountain whistle even more. Have you tried the new blue colored MyLocoSound boards? They have 6 different whistles to choose from and their tones can be adjusted. There are also other sounds that can be triggered or set to sound randomly. Take a look at the instructions on G Scale Graphic's web site.

       

      https://www.gscalegraphics.net/uploads/2/5/7/7/25776635/plc009_steam_instructions_us.pdf

       

       

      As for size, I believe the MyLocoSound card is about 1/3 shorter. I'm surprised how small these cards are. For the money, I think the MyLocoSound card is a good, cheep alternative.

       

      Just my opinion, I'm not in any way affiliated with MyLocoSound. I just think for the money, it's a good, cheep sound card.

      Have fun and let us know how your sound issues work out.

       

      Adam

    • September 1, 2019 12:14 PM EDT
    • Adam was the volume adjustable? I just purchased a rail boss 4 basic and was going to use this for sound, I considered the mylocosounds, but didn't like their whistle, and the Hyde-out would be temporary until I can find something else when money might be availableengine with cars + I'm still wrestling with making a custom battery as there isn't much room in the tender section of the mason bogie and the only spot left is the boiler which is long and skinny, thanks for the input, Bill   

    • September 1, 2019 12:02 PM EDT
    • I bought one many years ago to install in one of my Big Haulers.

      I converted the Big Hauler to battery power and a 2.4ghz Train Engineer radio controls. I was able to figure out how to connect the bell and whistle and made a 5 volt dc to dc converter to power the sound card from the same 14 volt batteries that powered the rest of the locomotive. The problem I ran into was when I hooked up the wires to the motor that would sense the voltage, and therefor increase or decrease the chuff rate, was the sound card would just take off to maximum chuffs no matter how slow or how fast i set the throttle. I then realized that the Train Engineer was Pulse Width Modulation. This type of speed controller send pulses of full battery power to the motor to control it's speed. The more pulses per second, the faster the the motor spins. The fewer pulses, the slower. The sound card was just sensing the full voltage. I did use it for a while with the Bachmann chuff card, just used the bell and whistle and not the chuff.

      I suppose one could put a filter, PWM to analog converter board, between the motor and sound card to smooth-out the signal.

      What I did instead was to pay slightly more then twice as much, $79, and purchased a MyLocoSound sound card. Didn't have to figure anything out, it's adjustable and it runs off the same battery voltage as the rest of the locomotive.

      If you're running dc track power and want to trigger the sounds with magnets then for just basic sounds, better then no sounds at all, then I'd go for it. 

       

      Hope this helps.

      Adam