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    • May 21, 2020 6:58 PM EDT
    • I have a yellow 20670 cleaning loco with the 55021 decoder directly (push in) installed.  When I run it with DCC, the engine moves forward and back no problem.  But the cleaning motor does not come on no matter which function button I press.  All lamps work using DC, but the flashing lights aren't working with DCC.  My guess is because the cleaning motor isn't running.  

      The loco works with my analog power pack but forward movement is real slow.  The throttle pack only puts out 2.5A which I am told is lower than optimal for this engine. 

       

      I have tried resetting the decoder but still no luck.  The switch in the cab is in position 2. 

      I know I could put a more expensive decoder in there but I don't need anything special with this engine.  

      Any ideas?

    • May 19, 2020 8:24 AM EDT
    • 1n4004 is fine and it goes from the super cap to the leds.

       

    • May 18, 2020 9:51 AM EDT
    • I believe you put the resistor between the positive leg of the supercap and the buck board, correct?  Are100ohm half watts good enough?

      Where do I put the diode?  Is a 1n4004 good enough?

      Update: I noticed Saturday night that over half my cars were really dim.  Most of the leds had failed.  I tested the voltage and they were all at a higher voltage than what I set them.  Seems these Buck Boards are experiencing voltage drift (not sure what it is called).  So I set the voltage to the minimum the bulbs need instead of the median voltage IOT give some more buffer in case it happens again.   

    • May 18, 2020 8:09 AM EDT
    • Yes, 2 identical capacitors in series will give 1/2 the Farads but double the voltage.  Be sure to charge with a resister like 100 ohms (to limit charging current) but discharge via a diode for max available current on discharging.

       

    • May 15, 2020 4:40 PM EDT
    • So, I would need two of these wired in series to get over the 3.2v output for the LEDs.  I would have to wire them in after the buck board but before the leds?   So the positive lead of the first Supercap would be soldered to the positive wire going to the leds.  The Negative lead of the first Supercap would be soldered to the positive lead of the second Supercap and the negative lead of the second supercap would be soldered to the negative wire going to the LEDs?

      How many farads does this give me if both Supercaps are 10f?  5?

    • May 15, 2020 8:19 AM EDT
    • https://www.amazon.com/Cylindrical-Ultra-Capacitor-Supercap-10x26mm/dp/B07Q2HMJY9

       

      6 of the 10 F   2.7 volt super caps for 4.99 plus shipping.

      I have bought these in quantities for even less $$ and free shipping by looking around Amazon and E-bay.

      Zimo decoders actually have a builtin charger for these caps which limits the current for charging in order not to trip the power source current.

       

    • May 13, 2020 7:00 PM EDT
    • Derailed said:

      I probably would enjoy operations.  I just never had an opportunity.  

      I have numerous times but it doesn't interest me. However I do enjoy taking pictures of the trains operating! Just a different aspect of the hobby I suppose.

    • May 13, 2020 6:43 PM EDT
    • I probably would enjoy operations.  I just never had an opportunity.  

    • May 13, 2020 6:33 PM EDT
    • Derailed said:

       

       

      I'm a "Roundy Rounder."  I like to run my trains on auto for hours while I sit by the fire pit, drinking and smoking

       

       

      Me too

    • May 13, 2020 6:24 PM EDT
    • If I were to add a supercap, would I wire it in on the output side of the buckboard between the board and the bulbs across the two wires?  Pos leg to pos wire and neg leg to neg wire?  

      I figure I can add a single 5.5v memory supercap as the buck output is set to 3.1v and it will only cost me $1-2 per car.  

       

      Would .47f be good enough or should I go to 1.5f? The bigger ones are twice as much but still pretty cheap.  Or does this low farad level even matter?  ie. "You need to do dual, expensive, 10f supercaps to make the bulbs stay on for more than a second."  

      My concern with the larger ones is with the next question. Would a string of cars with double capacitors cause a problem due to inrush current? 

    • May 12, 2020 10:09 PM EDT
    • I guess I will leave each at the 3.81A setting and see what happens.  

    • May 11, 2020 12:02 AM EDT
    • That wasn't me but someone else may have asked for me.  Thank you for the link.  I just subscribed.  

    • May 10, 2020 7:37 AM EDT
    • Looks like you've posted your questions on the NCE-DCC Google group, that's what I would have suggested.

       

      https://groups.io/g/NCE-DCC

       

      If that wasn't you, that's a great place for tech details like this. Also, elmassian.com.

    • May 9, 2020 3:19 PM EDT
    • I have a DCC Specialties PSX-2 that I am about to wire up.  I have a NCE PH10R with a 10A Brutus power supply.  Right now only one card will be connected to one loop.  Eventually, I will have two separate loops with each loop connected to one of the cards.  I note that just in case it matters.  

      I want to verify before I do this:  Should I set CV49 = 8 for a 10.2 trip current? 

    • May 11, 2020 10:44 PM EDT
    • Thank you for the offer.  Right now I am ok with the engine as it is all together and working.  

      I must have done the conversion and don't remember as I am the one who removed the original circuit board to install the MTS decoder.

    • May 11, 2020 7:54 PM EDT
    • Derailed said:

      Thank you.  I basically did what you are suggesting and drilled a hole through the "bumper" next to the 6 pin connector and ran two of the wires out to a small quick disconnect, then ran the wire into the slot where the sound power switch should be.  The third wire I ran into the tender and piggybacked it with the supercap's ground.  

       

      I did buy this one used but I am the one who replaced the guts with a 55021 wayyy back when.  Maybe I did the conversion when I installed that decoder but I don't remember having to do it.  I remember it being very straight forward and easy, just plugging the wires to the pins.  Could be wrong though.  It has three pins with German color codes and another wire (yellow I think) coming from inside the motor block.  At any rate, it is working fine and gets the most mileage since its so purty.  

      Dan Derailed - The yellow wire coming from the motor block means someone soldered the wire to the left motor terminal to create an equivalent 4-pin motor block.......it's not just a plug-in the wires to the pins procedure unless the motor block is actually a 4-pin unit.  I do have some 10-pin cables with connectors and sockets available if you need one.  These are the non-LGB type connectors -sockets but can be used to replace the existing LGB devices if you need more wires for installing devices such as the sound activation trigger or POT volume control unit inside the tender.  I'll try to post a photo but I haven't been successful doing so in the past.

      Okay, it didn't work as usual, got an error message when trying to add a photo or an attachment.  So, if interested, you can see the 10-pin cable/connector/socket on my Website:  https://www.olddominionrailways.com/copy-of-parts  You would rewire the existing cable from the loco's circuit board and remove the existing socket and green circuit board from the tender and replace them with this socket and rewire the devices to these wires.

       

      Tom

    • May 10, 2020 6:50 AM EDT
    • Note    LGB moguls came in 2 basic engine versions and 3 tender versions.

      There was the wood engine and tender did not have a rear light.  tenders had 3 and 6 pin connectors

      There is the coal version and the tender always had the rear light   tenders had 3 and 6 pin connectors

      Also one oil version, 5 pin  connector and used the 2-4-0 sound oil tender and the 69232 coal tender is the same 5 pin wiring and has sound.

       

    • May 9, 2020 6:38 PM EDT
    • Thank you.  I basically did what you are suggesting and drilled a hole through the "bumper" next to the 6 pin connector and ran two of the wires out to a small quick disconnect, then ran the wire into the slot where the sound power switch should be.  The third wire I ran into the tender and piggybacked it with the supercap's ground.  

       

      I did buy this one used but I am the one who replaced the guts with a 55021 wayyy back when.  Maybe I did the conversion when I installed that decoder but I don't remember having to do it.  I remember it being very straight forward and easy, just plugging the wires to the pins.  Could be wrong though.  It has three pins with German color codes and another wire (yellow I think) coming from inside the motor block.  At any rate, it is working fine and gets the most mileage since its so purty.  

    • May 9, 2020 3:14 PM EDT
    • Derailed/Dan - Wow, you've provided a lot of information!  The prior owner of your Mogul may have switched the motor block with an LGB 65019 4-pin motor block.  I wish LGB/Marklin would start making them again since there are so many of the older LGB Moguls made with the 3-pin motor blocks.  So, I just create a "4-pin" motor block by soldering a wire to the left motor terminal after I isolate it from the track power pickup pin....also requires expanding the pin hole to accommodate both the power pickup pin and the new wires to the motor.  But you don't need to worry about doing any of this.

       

      The maximum size of LGB Mogul Tender's green circuit boards are 6-pin, some older Moguls only 3-pin.  So, for the installation I did on one specific Mogul tender, I kept all functions in it the original factory install, I removed the existing 6-pin board and replaced it with a 12-pin connector......no circuit board.  The devices/functions it supported back to the new Massoth DCC XLS Sound Decoder in the Mogul:  speaker - 2 wires; rear taillight - 2 wires; track power pickup - 2 wires; Massoth POT - 3 wires; existing LGB Sound Function Trigger on the truck - 3 wires.  But it was very tedious soldering the 12 wires on those small pins on the back of the connector.

       

      So, for any future DCC sound conversions to LGB Moguls, I'm going to use the approach the newer LGB Moguls with DCC onboard sound decoder use:  Massoth Sound Function Trigger Board inside Mogul's motor block rear wheels; Massoth POT installed on rear of Mogul's firebox; and use the existing 6-pin connector/board in tender for the speaker, taillight, and track power pickup.  Installing a replacement 12-pin connector into the tender is just too much effort.  But it's also a lot of effort to install the Massoth Sound Function Trigger (reed switch) into the Mogul's motor block......I have to Dremel down the size of the board to fit it there.

       

      To use the existing LGB Sound Function Trigger on your tender's front truck, , the simplest approach would be to run a separate 3-pin cable with a disconnect between the tender and the Mogul.  You could drill a small hole into the front of the tender to run the cable out.  I do have non-LGB but similar connectors and plugs I bought on eBay from China, various sizes up to 12-pin.  If you want to buy a set cheaply, contact me directly:  OldDominionRailways@gmail.com

      Tom

       

    • May 9, 2020 2:31 PM EDT
    • Tom, The loco was already built with the 4 wires so it must have been a newer version.  

      I already had the sound unit function trigger installed from when I was running the 65001.  Plus I still use the track magnet for the Bell as the engines enter the station.  I am a roundy-rounder and like things automated.    

       

      Right now I have a second set of two wires going to the tender with a little quick disconnect for the trigger inputs.  But I never thought of switching it to a ten-pin connector.  Didn't realize that was an option.  I assume I would have to change out that circuit board with all the pins that the ribbon cable mates to.    How would I get my hands on that small circuit board?

       

      My engine doesn't have a rear lamp.  Not sure if other versions of this Mogul had one.  My other coal tendered Mogul has a rear lamp.  One day I might add one but I would need two more wires available.   

      Right now I have the following into the tender.  

      Track power - two wires

      Speaker - Two wires

      Supercaps - two wires but the ground is shared with sound trigger.  

      Sound unit trigger - 3 wires but the ground shared with Supercaps

      I have a LGB pot switch left over from the 65001 install but I am not sure how to wire it.  Plus, I can change the volume through CVs and my ProCab's function buttons but it is a PITA.  The volume is tied to buttons 23 and 24 and fine tuning the volume is a bit awkward.  I am sure there is a better way to do it.