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    • November 26, 2019 2:52 PM EST
    • Thank you Jim and Greg.  I had read that it gets power from the 2 loco connectors, and I will try that next - when my secondhand Tyco power pack arrives!  (No test gear in Florida, yet.)  And thanks for the Manual link, but of course my car is a 4034 and the connectors don't look to be in the same place.

      I contacted the seller who claimed he got a hiss and a whistle, and he indicates that it was plugged in to a loco. [I don't have any track power or a loco.]  I have tried it with 2 9V batteries but nothing happened.  I'll add a 3rd battery to the loco plugs and see if it wakes up.


      I'm still very curious how it "chuffs".  As far as I know, the loco connector supplies track power for lights, sound, etc.  But no chuff.  Must be voltage driven.

    • November 25, 2019 7:46 PM EST
    • Yes, one is track power (I guess to run it most times and sense speed) and the other backup battery (sound when stopped)


      You might be able to figure it out from the drawing in this manual....


      The drawing looks a little different, one manual for 3 different LGB numbers, but you can see the 2 plugs that would connect to a loco, and the 9v connector drawn.







    • November 25, 2019 7:20 PM EST
    • Pete, I believe you can either power the sound system from the 2nd 9 volt battery or connect it to the loco with the 2 red plugs on the ends of the blue wires. The other 9 volt battery kick starts the sound.

    • November 25, 2019 6:44 PM EST
    • Pete Thornton said:



      My real question is about the dual 9V connectors.  I read that one is for keeping the board alive for 30 seconds after power stops on the loco connecter (blue wires, seem to be intact.) So any thoughts on the other 9V?  I put red arrows where the red wires from the 9V meet the board - one must be the 'keep aline' but which one?


      Don't have an answer to the real question. But what you read makes no sense to me.

    • November 25, 2019 5:24 PM EST
    • In another moment of weakness I picked up one of these for a song on eBay.  Seller claimed the whistle worked but not the chuff, so it seemed likely the wiring was the issue, not the board.  We will see.


      It arrived and the first thing I noted was that one speaker wire fell off.  For some reason it was solid wire and not well soldered - from inspecting the seller photo I deduce it came from the vacant hole near the red speaker wire at bottom left of the board.



      [Anyone know why it says "NYP" on the pcb?]

      My real question is about the dual 9V connectors.  I read that one is for keeping the board alive for 30 seconds after power stops on the loco connecter (blue wires, seem to be intact.) So any thoughts on the other 9V?  I put red arrows where the red wires from the 9V meet the board - one must be the 'keep aline' but which one?



      Your comments are welcomed.

    • November 26, 2019 2:52 PM EST
    • Greg,

      I get that the under used ones would be long 'dead' and need replacing, but why would a good battery all the sudden go dead over the course of the weekend?



    • November 26, 2019 2:07 PM EST
    • One of the failure modes in NiCads is the growth of "dendrites" between the plates (your cell is 2 plates rolled up into a cylinder)


      These dendrites are crystalline in nature and conductive, thus they become a local short or low resistance spot where charging current goes through this short and does not "fill up" the electrolyte.


      Similarly, you have analogous issues discharging.


      If you "zap" a cell, most of the current goes through these "shorts" and usually vaporizes them. Yes, often after zapping you can get the batteries to charge, but realize that it's most likely that there are other weak points in the cell, besides the "damaged" area, so at best you have a weakened battery, that's likely to have this problem again.


      Also realize that is normally the charging routine/method that made this happen. You cannot leave nicads in a discharged state, and not charge them for years.


      So the answers are:

      1. you can zap them and they might come back to life in a degraded condition, but likely to happen again.

      2. yes it is time!



    • November 26, 2019 9:49 AM EST
    • I'm stumped at the moment about some dead Ni-Cad batteries.


      1. I ran my locomotive on Friday using said Ni-Cad battery. For the past month or so I've been regularly charging and discharging the battery as I've been playing around with it.

      On Sunday, I charged the battery like normal, expecting to have the locomotive charged and ready to go. Yesterday after I got home late from work (battery charged for 24'), I clicked the switch on and nothing happened.... I can get a small less than 1 volt reading.


      So did I kill the battery by either accidentally leaving it 'on' over the weekend, slowly draining the battery down to 0, and the latest charge hasn't held? I put it back on the charger last night and checked this morning before I went to work real quick and still no voltage. Should I try the 12 volt zap method? I keep it charging when I left for work.



      Unrelated, but related....

      2. I have three other sets of Ni-Cad and/or NiMh (can't remember the moment) installed in other locomotives (and extra battery car) that I haven't used in probably 5-6 years. I tried charging them a while back to see if they would hold a charge, but I never got a decent charge.



      Here's my question(s). 

      1. Is there anything I can do to revive the NiCad/NiMh batteries that I have before plunking down $ for new ones?

      2. Is it time to switch to LiOn?


      The irony of the whole thing is one of my caboose batteries just keeps on taking a beating...

      It can sit for years with no charge, and it works great. But then again it is only powering a few LED's...

    • November 25, 2019 12:22 PM EST
    • I picked up one of those tiny LGB 20140 in a weak moment, and decided to make it run.  As most of my friends do not use track power, this means battery operation, and it didn't seem likely that I could get enough cells, plus the RX and sound card into that boiler.  I have a string of gondolas which would look good behind it, so I got out my spare LiIon 18650 battery box and it seems to fit.



      The only mods to the engine are to fit a track/battery DPDT switch with a cable to the trailing car, and a speaker inside the loco somewhere.



      This is the underside of the frame removed from the bodywork, and those 4 connectors on the front seem to be the track pickups (outer pair) and the motor leads (inner.) The pcb has a couple of chokes on the other side.  There's room above it to add the DPDT slider switch and I am debating whether it is worth making it accessible through the front pilot beam, or just leave it as it is very easy to reach by removing 4 screws.  How often do you switch from track to battery anyway?


      I poked around and found the coal box on the side of the cab is removed with one screw and the little 8 ohm speaker I got from Radio Shack looks like it will fit.



      Not sure what it will sound like, but there ain't room for a 2" speaker.  With a slot in the side and holes in the bottom for the wires it is ready to fit.  And here it is tucked in the corner of the cab.



      Next job is to fit the switch at the front and run the wires.

    • November 24, 2019 11:29 AM EST
    • That brings up a fond memory, remember Izzard, when he came to the forum with a brand new and exclusive way to combine cells in battery packs, it 8 cells and it was baloney? When pressed for a schematic, he showed an end view of a pack with the strips connecting cells.  The particular one I found was the solar powered car, a flexible solar panel bent into an arch on either a flat or a gondola.... turns out he hid a battery inside, and after a number of questions, it would have taken about 12 cars to run a loco in full sun...



      Anyway, apparently John has just posted on another thread I am a "cyber stalker" because I made fun of this... come on John, can't even laugh at yourself a bit? Loosen up.






    • November 24, 2019 5:44 AM EST
    • Greg, maybe he could solar power the card in the car, or wind turbine power the card.......


      I was just channeling my inner Stacy. If you remember Stacy and the total lack of electrical knowledge that member had.

    • November 23, 2019 10:36 PM EST
    • This is the LGB 41682 Wild West Rodeo Wagon car getting the sound card:



      And John's suggested power supply:


      I suppose it will work, but won't the extension cord make the car derail? 


      (I'm guessing John assumed it was a static display)


    • November 23, 2019 9:06 PM EST
    • see

    • November 23, 2019 2:48 PM EST
    • Bill Sakalaucks said:

      Will these operate off a single 9-volt?  If so, I may have some winter projects to take care of!


      From ITT Products website instructions for GL Single Sound Modules


      Input Voltage: 9 to14 volts DC. Do not use train controller transformers for power.



      Rio Gracie


    • November 23, 2019 10:37 AM EST
    • Will these operate off a single 9-volt?  If so, I may have some winter projects to take care of!

      David Maynard said:


      Scroll down past the train sounds.


    • November 23, 2019 8:44 AM EST
    • Tommy...  The ITT sound cards are great.  George is super easy to work with!!!!   Glad you found the site.. 

    • November 22, 2019 1:49 PM EST
    • Thank you for the quick answers. I ordered   "Horses being transported" from Innovative Train Technology Products.



      Rio Gracie

    • November 22, 2019 5:28 AM EST


      Scroll down past the train sounds.

    • November 22, 2019 3:59 AM EST
    • RAM Car and Track has one listed (RAM 151 HORSES). I have no experience with ordering from them so can't speak to the quality. ReindeerPass sells some RAM Sound cards, you may want to contact them.