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    • May 8, 2020 5:10 PM EDT
    • Thanks all for your pieces of mind.  Seems like the Railboss is the way to go. 

    • May 7, 2020 6:42 PM EDT
    • Another vote for the railboss, just installed one in my Mason Bogie and couldn't be happier, battery, control and sound board all fit in my small tender, controller is small enough  to fit in my pocket and easy to control, Bill

    • May 7, 2020 12:19 PM EDT
    • Another vote for the G Scale Graphics RailBoss.  It fits all of my needs (limited as they are) and have been absolutely reliable.  

       

      

    • May 7, 2020 7:28 AM EDT
    • Trainli has a 90 dollar remote control xmit/rcvr combo.

      TL60-10002

    • May 6, 2020 7:48 PM EDT
    • All excellent recommendations !

    • May 6, 2020 6:47 PM EDT
    • Hi Joe, Today I offer the PIKO R/C sender that will fit your criteria. It is a complete bundle including the 14.8V 3.5Ah battery, charger and install kit for $228 shipped to you.

      Please visit my web site at www.rcsofne.com

      Don

    • May 6, 2020 6:38 PM EDT
    • I recommend the Railboss system from G-Scale graphics. It’s around $200 for transmitter and receiver. Battery is extra. 

      Doc

    • May 6, 2020 6:14 PM EDT
    • I'm looking for an R/C system that will be cheap and simple for a small to medium sized locomotive.

       

      Potential systems ideally fit this criteria:

      1. Have Speed Control

      2. Have Direction Control

      3. Can accept a 14.8v battery

      4. Under $200 total for the system package

       

      What R/C systems out there will fit this criteria?? What do people recommend??

    • May 7, 2020 7:22 AM EDT
    • When I add sound to the LGB moguls, I remove the weight in the tender and then install the Visiton FRS7.  This comes in 4 and 8 ohm versions and is fairly heavy so the LGB weight is not needed.

      Sound output of the decoder is rated at 10 watts to a 4 ohm speaker!!  For large Bachmann tenders I use the FRS8 4 ohm.

    • May 6, 2020 5:14 PM EDT
    • Derailed said:

      I have an older LGB 21181 pre-sound, pre-DCC Mogul.  I am installing a Zimo 696S decoder with sound in it.  There are only 6 wires/pins running between the engine and tender.  Two are for the track power pickups at the wheels.  Two are for the speaker.  Which leaves two left.  The problem is I would like to keep my Sound unit function trigger which takes 3 wires, leaving me one short. 

      What are my options?  What have others done? 

      I do use track magnets to activate the bell as the trains enter the station and a whistle before the bridge so I want to keep this function if possible. 

      Thanks,

      Dan

      Hi Dan/Derailed - Since you're converting this Mogul to DCC, I'm wondering why you want to install a sound activation trigger for the whistle and bell......that's all done with your DCC controller.  For some DCC conversions of LGB locos I do for customers, they want to be able to also run on DC/Analog occasionally, so they do want me to install the reed trigger unit and a Pot volume control unit.  But if you're not going to run DC sound, then why bother....just curious.  Actually, for a recent customer's Mogul conversion to DCC, he wanted these two DC/Analog features installed so I removed the existing 6-pin cable/socket from the Mogul to the tender and installed a 10-pin one.  Then I was able to install all devices/functions into the tender:  Track Power Pickup (2 wires); Rear backup light (2 wires); Sound activation trigger (3 wires); and Pot Volume Control (3 (wires).  That way I could reuse the existing LGB Sound Function Trigger already installed onto the tender's front truck to save him a little money.  I recently set up a Parts & Accessories site on my Website if you need any of the Massoth devices.....Pot or Sound Function Trigger.  https://www.olddominionrailways.com/parts-for-sale

      You didn't mention anything about converting the LGB 21181 Mogul's motor block from 3-pin to 4-pin in order to install a DCC decoder.  So, I assume you know how to do that which can be a little challenging.

      Good luck

      Tom

    • May 6, 2020 4:55 PM EDT
    • Kyle Schoenly said:

      Question for anyone who might know.

       I have an older Phoenix sound system from the 2000's. The battery for standing sounds isn't holding a charge anymore. What do you know after 20 years. It is a seal lead acid battery 6 volts 0.5 amp hour (PS-605) . Well apparently that battery went the way of the dodo bird and is no longer available. Wondering if anyone knows what would replace it. Im assuming there is no smart charging going on. Rather, it just charges at a low C rate. Any help would be great!    Thanks

       

       Klye - I've installed many Phoenix sound boards on my own LGB locos and customer locos.  Which Phoenix board do you have, maybe it's the Model 97, one of the oldest made before Year 2000?  You can download any of the Phoenix board's installation guides and other helpful information from the Phoenix Website......look at each board's pictures to identity which board you have.  Phoenix is closed for business right now like all non-essential businesses in MI by order of the Governor.

      You need to know specifically which board you have because Phoenix uses different rechargeable batteries on specific boards, and some are Ni-Cd and some are NiMH.  I installed a Massoth DCC XL Power Decoder and Massoth Pulsed Smoker into a customer's LGB Euro Mallet last year which already had the older Phoenix Model 97 board in it......still working after many years of use.  It also needed a new battery and I checked with Jim at Phoenix who told me to use a Rechargeable 7.2 volt NiMH battery and he told me where to buy it.  Sorry I don't remember where I ordered it from.

      If you have the Big Sound 2k2 board, then next generation of their boards in early Year 2000, the Installation Manual states to use a 3.6volt Ni-Cd battery.

      Tom  

        

    • April 29, 2020 3:06 PM EDT
    • I never thought about caps... I put them in all my lighting boards i build for passenger cars. Im not a fan of the flicker effect on dirty track or switch frogs. I can't believe i didn't think of that myself. I just got a response from phoenix. They said you can use nimh which means you can use nicd to. So to wrap this up you can use sla, nicd, nimh, in a six volt arrangement and super caps. My hunch must have been correct that the board ouputs a very small charging current (around 50 milliamps) opening it up to many different types of batteries. Just a thought if your sound system is in your loco and you want the add weight. The lead acid is a great option. 

    • April 29, 2020 2:53 PM EDT
    • Yes, you could probably use Supercaps, and I do this with my Sierra systems.  I use three 2.7 volt, 6F supercaps in series and when the power is removed, the sound system (and lighting) stay on for about a minute or more depending on the volume setting.

    • April 29, 2020 7:55 AM EDT
    • Another thought is to use super caps and charge them to 6 volts.  Depending on size, this can give you sound for over 20 seconds when changing direction.

      I used 7 of the 10F supercaps on a 16 volt DCC zimo decoder and with engine running, lights, smoke and sound on, I got over 10 seconds of the engine running when I picked it off the track.  For just sound it would last a long time.  And these do not go bad over time, My LGB mogul has the original ones fore over 15 years!!

    • April 28, 2020 10:07 AM EDT
    • I'm assuming you mean lithium Dan? I wasn't sure what current the board charges at or protection/circuitry capabilities it has. I did email phoenix but I have not heard from them. I didn't want to stick a lithium battery in and see smoke after awhile. I assume it charges at a 10 percent constant current. Given the SLA was 500 milliamps, you would see a 50 milliamp charge current. So I assume I could have used a similar rated arrangement NiCd but since I found a SLA that fit. I just went with it. As I understand it, those single lithium batteries don't have over/under charge protection.

    • April 28, 2020 8:43 AM EDT
    • Why not just use 2 of the 3.2 or 3.6 volt batteries in series??

       

       

    • May 4, 2020 10:35 PM EDT
    • Hello All,


      I have recently been installing Tsunami 2 decoders in my locomotives. The sound is really great and when combined with Airwire R/C and battery, the engines run like a watch. There is one issue I am running into, however. When I use the F2 button to blow a "long" whistle and immediately afterwards use F3 to blow a "short" whistle, the decoder automatically blows the short whistle 3 more times. So generally you get long-long-short-short-short-short-long instead of the more traditional crossing whistle. Likewise, there are also times when I turn on the bell function (F1) or cylinder cocks (F4) and they will cut out until I push another function button, at which point they will cut back in.


      This is something that has been happening with all of my Tsunami decoders that use a CVP CONVRTR receiver. I do have one Tsunami 2 in a locomotive with a Tam Valley Receiver, but that one does not have this issue.


      I am hoping this is just a programming issue. Any guidance would be appreciated.


      Trevor