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    • April 17, 2019 4:40 PM EDT
    • I applaud the work the guy did, but the wires do not look realistic in the first picture, they are too thick and defying gravity and have anti-gravity kinks.


      You can get the sag by lightly pressing on the wires back and forth after strung with a fair-diameter dowel. Too small in diameter will make visible kinks and will stretch the wire too much (force per unit area).


      Done right it's great, but we will see the amount of effort required!



    • April 17, 2019 3:15 PM EDT
    •    I don't know if this would be of any use or interest here, but I found this article from 1993 while sorting through some of my old notebook binders:







    • April 17, 2019 1:12 PM EDT
    • Always do what you are comfortable with!



    • April 17, 2019 12:25 PM EDT
    • I just don't feel comfortable putting more weight into the unit. I accept that the pulling power will not be great, but it should still be a fun unit to run. I should also mention that I decided to leave out the sound, as there was no easy way to mount the speaker, nor was there really any room for one. I wasn't happy with the smaller speaker. It also made installation much easier. I actually got the egg up and running this past weekend, and I will try to share some photos later on.

    • April 16, 2019 10:10 PM EDT
    • Some of those motor blocks are just plain noisy and can last forever still making the noise. If it pulls what you want, then you don't need the weight... but wheel slipping or other difficulties should put the weight in. The noise really should not change with weight, just load and speed.



    • April 13, 2019 6:07 PM EDT
    • After a couple months hiatus, I have been able to get back to work on this project.

      A couple considerations: 

      1. Due to the motor noise from the motor block after one pound of weight was added, I chose to use a smaller battery (4 cell) and remove the factory weight. With the factory weight removed, the total weight of the unit is about the same as before the conversion. Eventually, I may swap out the Bachmann remake truck for an original Aristo, and perhaps add back more weight (not sure why the Bachmann remake couldn't handle the extra weight, but I think the Aristo block could).

      2. After much hemming and hawing, I have chosen to stick with the Airwire receiver. I had thought that the Airwire board was a little overkill for a critter such as this, which it is. However, I already have the Airwire board, and I wouldn't have to pay money for a simpler system. Free is the best price there is. :)   Also, Airwire is the only system I'm really familiar with.


      @David Maynard I had thought about it, but I'm just not a fan of the shape. I know it's supposed to match the eggliner, but I prefer the look of rectangular cars better.

    • April 14, 2019 5:43 AM EDT
    • Buy more beverages.

    • April 14, 2019 2:33 AM EDT
    • Addendum:


      The second unit went together in less than three hours, to include work area set up and break down time.  There were a few lessons learned, like longer lengths of wire and rotating the female socket 90 degrees to make it easier to place the holding screws, and the thing was ready to go for a good afternoon of running trains and enjoying a beverage...Then a rail clamp at a turn-out gave way half way through the second beverage...


      Again, thanks to all for the prompts and guides along the way.  For a few hours of work, I saved several hundreds of dollars, and the trains run much better.  Now whatever shall I do with the money I saved?  



    • April 13, 2019 4:03 PM EDT
    • You have way more in the bank than me Rooster, would never hope or aspire to top the king!

    • April 12, 2019 8:06 PM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Jon, a pretty big difference between your first post and your second.




      Hello Pot my name is Kettle

    • April 12, 2019 6:32 PM EDT
    • Jon, a pretty big difference between your first post and your second.


      Long term storage of batteries is an issue, with all types, more so with nicad and nimh, but can also be with lithium.


      What battery type did you have the bad experience with that caused you to not like Tenergy? That would be helpful.


      (also how long?)



    • April 12, 2019 6:08 PM EDT
    • I think we have gone beyond the easy stuff once we started this thread and went "past" starting speed.


      The nice thing is there is a way to run different locos together that are NOT speed matched on DC.


      The much more sophisticated things DCC can do for consisting is one of the attractions of DCC...


      Believe it or not this is the simple stuff... now having the sound units automatically understand which sounds according to which direction and where in the consist they are is nice...


      But anyway, the Revo has a nice set of features that are a nice middle ground between basic remote control and DCC.



    • April 12, 2019 3:34 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Paul that assumes that the 2 locomotives run at about the same speed for any given voltage.


      Yes, however the lead with slow down entering a curve or starting up a grade.

      But if they are the same model they should be close to the same draw and speed.

      I ran pairs of my GP-40s and GP-9s this way for years.



    • April 12, 2019 2:03 PM EDT
    • Hi all, I wrote to JK and he will post instructions on the Revolution web site soon.  Good suggestion from Greg.


      I have no idea why that paragraph was deleted from the current manual.  



    • April 11, 2019 8:27 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Paul that assumes that the 2 locomotives run at about the same speed for any given voltage.

      I didn't know you used the Revo ?

    • April 11, 2019 7:28 PM EDT
    • Paul that assumes that the 2 locomotives run at about the same speed for any given voltage.

    • April 11, 2019 4:05 PM EDT
    • Steve Featherkile said:

      I have my two GN SD 45s mu'd together, and found that both have to have the same "speed steps indicated, for the mu to indicate the value you want, otherwise, the mu value will default to "3."


      The easiest way to MU the same model of locomotive with the Revolution throttle is to give them both the same linking and cab number. Then go through the linking process with each separately. They will respond as one when you are done. No need to mess with start speeds, speed curves, or top speeds.

      If you want to run them separately later on, just change the linking number and cab number on one and go through the linking process with it. 


    • April 11, 2019 11:37 AM EDT
    • Need to get Navin to put this back on his site...  glad we have Joe!

    • April 11, 2019 12:45 AM EDT
    • Thanks, Joe! The speed curves are explained on the bottom of page 2.