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    • June 20, 2019 10:09 AM EDT
    • Don Sweet said:

      Hi Guys, I have the instructions sheets for older and newer versions. The older sheets are not posted on his web site.  Devon I think you have the you have the version before the current Hi-Line. If so on page 8 is the correct drawing. 

      Do you have the red/gray wires with the little white plugs? Is your volume control a small black trimmer pot mounted on the board ? If so that is the previous version. 

      I do not have the a pdf but can scan the page if you need it. 


      Bingo Don,


      What you describe is exactly what I have. It has several wire/plugs (5 I think, not sure if they are red and grey, but maybe. I am at work but sounds right) and the volume control (and throttle notch) are little black dials on the side of the control board. If you could scan it for me that would be great, to at least compare it to what I have. I do have a set of directions with multiple ways to install it. All in all I think I have it figured out but having the right directions would be nice so I don't inadvertently ruin it.

    • June 20, 2019 9:35 AM EDT
    • Hi Guys, I have the instructions sheets for older and newer versions. The older sheets are not posted on his web site.  Devon I think you have the you have the version before the current Hi-Line. If so on page 8 is the correct drawing. 

      Do you have the red/gray wires with the little white plugs? Is your volume control a small black trimmer pot mounted on the board ? If so that is the previous version. 

      I do not have the a pdf but can scan the page if you need it. 


    • June 20, 2019 9:17 AM EDT
    • Hi Devon.

      If it is a bit vague try contacting Dallas Guttacher (sp) for some help.  He is very helpful.

    • June 20, 2019 9:12 AM EDT
    • If it does explain it Tony, I am to dense to understand it. All the diagrams show "track power". But after looking at it a second time and more in depth it was fairly easy to deduce what they were doing with the track power so that I was able to surmise what needed to be be done with the RC board.

    • June 19, 2019 11:57 PM EDT
    • YEP!!!

      Although I am surprised that is not explained in the instructions.  Dallas is well experienced with battery R/C and they used to cover it.

    • June 19, 2019 10:51 PM EDT
    • I think I answered my own question after reading it s second time. They have the option of using the track power for only sensing voltage for rpm sound, and using the battery to actually power the sound board. In their case these are two separate power sources. But when the main battery in the battery/RC units is used in conjunction with a loco control board we effectively turn the battery into two different power sources, one which is variable like track power and one which is constant like their auxiliary battery. 


      By connecting the motor leads out of the RC control board to the track power leads on the sound card this is will be the variable power source and by connecting the auxiliary battery leads straight to the battery this will give the constant power replacing the auxiliary battery. 


      Am I on the right track. 

    • June 19, 2019 10:34 PM EDT
    • I picked up a sound card from Dallee; Alco Road Eng. Diesel Sound. All of the installation instructions assume track power. I am battery. Now my question is, the way I understand this to work, is it reads the increase in voltage from the track to gauge the throttle response. It also requires an auxiliary battery to operate the sound when at idle. 


      I assume I can substitute track power with the power output from my loco control board. So as voltage from the loco control board increases to run the loco it will be the same as recieving track power. Am I right in this?


      Also can I ditch the auxiliary battery altogether and wire these leads directly to my main battery. It says battery voltage can be 9 volts and can not exceed 35v. So 14.4 is right in the wheel house. 


      Any flaws on my thinking? 

    • June 19, 2019 3:55 PM EDT

      Thank you very much indeed Tony.


      I'll be ordering one!


      Mike in UK

    • June 18, 2019 10:54 AM EDT
    • Hello Mike.

      I tested the # RELAY-5v in the GP-38-2 I have been working on over the weekend.
      Passed with flying colours.

      They will be available in a day or so and will be a fair bit less than the other version I have been using for years.
      A$ 19 and as they will fit in the low cost Large Letter rate, they will be post free.

      Instructions and wiring diagram HERE.
      I will try and get the USAT GP-38-2 battery R/C installation article ready in a day or so.

    • June 16, 2019 5:28 PM EDT
    • Hello Mike.

      The testing went well this weekend.

      The 5 volt relay is in a USAT GP-38 and worked as expected. I will process the photographs and write up the installation today.  It will be posted as soon as I can.

    • June 16, 2019 1:15 PM EDT

      Hello Tony, how did your testing go?


      Can you please give me a guide as to when the RCS # RELAY-5v (hopefully complete with wiring diagram) will be available?


      All the best


      Mike in UK

    • June 7, 2019 5:28 PM EDT
    • The + at the end of the OMEGA-3v5 is traction battery voltage less a diode drop.

      Use the 5v supply on the side for the Rx.

    • June 7, 2019 10:47 AM EDT

      Thank you again Tony


      That's all making much more sense now.


      Can you please confirm that the + Terminal on the end of the RCS Omega 3 v5 sound/light terminal block is a suitable 5v supply to the RELAY-5v?


      I wait to hear how the testing goes. Please keep us posted.


      All the best


      Mike in UK

    • June 7, 2019 6:53 AM EDT
    • Mike those diagrams are intended for the diesels.  It should be obvious which plugs to remove for a diesel.

      Unfortunately I can't help you with which wires to disconnect for the Hudson.

      Basically you remove the motor connections from the USAT wiring and feed the ESC motor output direct to the motor.

      Then remove the track pick ups and feed the relay output out to what were the track pick up connections.  In the case of the diesels all that is plug and socketed.

      I think the updated # RELAY-5v will be more easily understood.  You would use the 5 volt terminal on the ESC to power the coil and return via the reverse light connection.

      I built one today but have not yet had the opportunity to test it.  Will do so over the weekend.

    • June 7, 2019 4:52 AM EDT

      Hello Tony and Thanks again


      The wiring diagram is very helpful - as yours always are!


      On the third one for USAT Trains am I right that the Yellow cable triggers the relay/polarity reversal and is connected to the Rear Light terminal on the RCS ESC as in the other diagrams? Very neat idea/design.


      Sorry I don't understand the instructions "Unplug USAT motor leads. Leave connected to USAT PCB". Which leads are to be unplugged where? And what is left connected to the PCB?


      I have a spare RCS Omega 3 v5 that I could use to control motor and sound triggers with an Rx 102. Can you please confirm that this should all work OK in the Hudson with retained USAT wiring?


      Finally should I ask you to supply one of the last of the present version Relays modules now or wait for the replacement version and an updated wiring diagram. Certainty is more important than speed!


      All the very best


      Mike in UK


    • June 6, 2019 11:33 AM EDT
    • Hello Mike.

      I have been making a relay pcb as described for years. I am just about out of them and they will be replaced shortly with an older version that will use the 5 volt supply and light switching outputs of the OMEGA-10 and also the COBRA-260 100 Watt ESC's.

      You could quite easily make one up yourself using readily available small DPDT relays.  Make sure you have a suitable kickback diode across the relay coil.

      Here is how I currently wire them.

      # RELAY-1v3

      Greg I use the relay idea as much as to simplify wiring USAT locos as to enable slightly lower traction battery voltages.

      One way to save a bit of voltage and still have polarity protection is to use Schottky diodes instead of regular Silicone diodes. 


      Currently I am working on a new installation for a GP-38 that uses making the top hatch removable to access switches and the Rx for binding etc.

      The article should be ready next week.

    • June 6, 2019 11:04 AM EDT
    • Mike a DPDT relay is wired so when energized it reverses the DC polarity, all DPDT relays can do so, and are widely available.


      On the point of speed, (Tony correct me if I am wrong), the lower losses with Tony's setup is you only lose voltage through the output transistors of the ESC, which are most likely FETs.


      I believe that this is the lowest resistance solution.


      Most decoders/drivers have an extra "loss" because they also need reversing "logic", for example all DCC decoders have a full wave bridge on the input.


      This is also why many battery people prefer to do as Tony suggests. The original AirWire ESC is polarity sensitive, I believe to again avoid another set of diode drops, i.e. losses to the voltage.


      These "tricks" usually can save a volt or two loss between the battery and the motor, and the "last few volts" are what make up the top speed of the loco, as voltage vs. speed is nonlinear.



    • June 6, 2019 9:28 AM EDT

      Thank you all very much this is all very helpful.


      Tony, I like your solution.  Can you please expand on your second paragraph/third sentence - preferably by a wiring diagram showing the ESC light trigger and DPDT polarity switching relays?


      And in particular where can I get such DPDT polarity switching relays?


      All the best


      Mike in UK


    • June 6, 2019 7:10 AM EDT
    • Here's a thread on my conversion:

      I used a 18 V battery in mine.  I'm running an AirWire CONVRTR with a ZIMO Decoder (because of their smoke machine driver) and a Phoenix P8.  

    • June 6, 2019 1:51 AM EDT
    • Greg.

      I guess the main reason why a 14.4 volt battery was satisfactory is because I wired the motor direct to the ESC.  There are no voltage losses through the USA wiring.

      The loco stock wiring was retained and fed from the battery via a DPDT relay the coil of which is controlled by one of the ESC lighting outputs.