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    • February 22, 2019 1:15 PM EST
    • I appreciate all the advice...believe it or not I'm starting get a better idea of how this all works.  The issue with the LGB Forney is the drive wheels are pretty much encased with very little clearance for a magnet.  The motor block takes up all the space.  So I may have to play with the trucks under the oil bunker as Dan suggests.  That is unless there is another option.  I could possibly fit a 1/16" magnet on the drive wheel...but not sure where the reed switch would be mounted because of the motor block.  I'll have time to play with stuff this weekend

      Again, thanks!!


    • February 22, 2019 7:56 AM EST
    • Magnets will not adhere to the wheels as the wheels are usually brass or castings. 

      Be careful to not place the magnets close to the outer rim as they will hit the guard rails.

      The reason for installing reed sensors for bell and whistle is to have the engine always blow the whistle for crossings or tunnel entry. Bell for approaching the station. 

      Just place magnets on the track to activate these features.

    • February 21, 2019 10:27 PM EST
    • If you are a stickler, you mount the magnets so that they match the ends of the strokes of the pistons, otherwise you just evenly space them.


      But I thought you could use 2 magnets and tell the Phoenix to do 2 chuffs or 4 chuffs per revolution.



    • February 21, 2019 3:56 PM EST
    • If you use the P8 voltage regulated chuff, the program needs to be set set to read the motor voltage instead of what a reed switch timer is sending.

      The only connection to the P8 is then the Orange and Grey wires from the P8.  Which way round they go when connecting to the motor voltage, determines what the number of toots at start up and stopping are.  Although that can also be determined in programming.

      The Green wires from the P8 are the battery power supply.  In this case polarity does not matter.

    • February 21, 2019 10:38 AM EST


      1/8th to 3/16 flat discs.

       A drop of CA will prevent sliding off the wheel at high RPM! Or in my case being bumped ...

    • February 21, 2019 10:31 AM EST
    • Thanks Tony and Dan...I am truly sorry for being a novice turd with all of this.  I've just not been gifted with a clear understanding of electronics.  But with the help of guys like you and others I've been able to get things to work...

      OK>>>both of you mention tiny magnets on the wheels...what kind of magnets and where exactly are they placed on the wheels?  Glued? Do they automatically adhere? This is how basic I need to get .  The reed sensor is glued  but what is the P8 wiring soldered too?  The ends of the reed sensor? To a point on the truck.  I did clip wiring off the rear truck of the Forney when I was disassembling everything.  

      Tony - what I've not been understanding is if I go with voltage regulated chuff where do I solder or connect the P8 wiring?  Do I need another component from you for this additional wiring.  I've got the triggers wired to the 

      Dan - I don't think I need the bell and whistle switch that you suggested.  I already have the bell, whistle, etc attached to a component that Tony included in the RC package.  These are triggered with buttons on the TX which work just fine.  So if I mount a reed switch to the freight truck with magnets on the wheels where do I connect the P8 chuff wiring?  Also, where did you mount the program and volume jack?  In the back of the fuel bunker or in the floor?  What worked best for you/

      You guys are great!!  I really appreciate all of this!!


    • February 21, 2019 7:13 AM EST
    • It is easier to add magnets to the Freight truck wheels and glue a reed sensor to the truck. 

      If using the LGB 65012 reed sensors for bell and whistle, the chuff reed can be attached/glued to this assembly.

      On my first Forney I installed the Phoenix sound board, battery,  and speaker plus program jack and volume control in the fuel bunker.

    • February 21, 2019 2:06 AM EST
    • Hello Richard.

      If you have the Phoenix software and programming hardware, you can set the P8 for (adjustable) voltage controlled chuff.

      Otherwise use four tiny magnets on one drive wheel so they can trigger a reed switch at the correct position.

    • February 21, 2019 1:33 AM EST
    • I thought I'd start this new post on a current topic I've been searching answers to for few weeks now.  

      I'm looking to add chuff to my LGB Forney and am at a total loss as to what to do.  I've removed all the LGB electronics and replaced with Tony Walsham's RC gear and a Phoenix P8 sound card.  I've somehow lost the pc/reed switch assembly that originally was installed in the engine in between the drive wheels. I've assumed this was the chuff sensor.  I could be wrong. 

      I've searched hard and long and am finding tons of information about reed switches, magnets, and hall sensors and the like.  What I'm not finding is practical application with step by step instructions how to build any of this for my application.  I'm not an electrician and I don't understand schematics, but I can look at an example i.e photo or sketch and can pretty much figure things out...with time.  I'm not the fastest eggliner in the bunch.

      Is there a practical guide or log of someone building and installing something like this in an engine? I'd like to understand a bit more about how all of this works and how it all gets hooked up.

      If you have a suggestion I am most appreciative.



    • February 7, 2019 8:10 PM EST
    • Joe, not wasting anyone's time.... if you see all the participation, it's because people are interested.


      But as they say in the song: "don't worry be happy"... you can overthink things and sometimes you just got to check it out and see what happens.



    • February 7, 2019 7:33 PM EST
    • That, and I don't know. It was well within the 3 pound "limit" when I first heard the gear noise. I guess that's all I have to go on. If I do hear it again, I know what to remove. I'll test it this weekend.

      Sorry for wasting everyone's time :(

    • February 7, 2019 6:51 PM EST
    • "stress the gears" is hard to define. Pulling more will stress the gears. More weight will stress the gears. The fact that many people have locos with this basic motor block that are 20 years old should put your mind at ease.


      I cannot speak to the quality control of the latest production that is sold by Bachmann. The earlier ball bearing blocks have fared well.


      I think you are worrying too much.



    • February 7, 2019 5:57 PM EST
    • With the battery and the stock weight, the total weight would be about a pound and a half. Could that stress the gears?



      Also, even if you don't use your Eggliner as a loco, it has the ability to pull a couple cars straight from the box . I am not the first to try this:

    • February 7, 2019 5:38 PM EST
    • Joe, look at the weight of an RS-3, divide it in half... I think your eggliner will be within that weight easily.


      Stock, without weight in the "Tank" the RS-3 weighs about 5-1/2 pounds, and adding the stock weight, or the factory optional weights should take it over 6 pounds. (this was for the old sleeve bearing motor blocks too!)


      So, you have one motor block instead of 2, AND you have ball bearing axles. You stated the loco was about a pound... so you should be able to have the total weight 3 pounds (1/2 of 6 pounds for an RS-3) no problem.


      I would not worry and keep the stock weight, especially since you don't have traction tires.



    • February 7, 2019 4:44 PM EST
    •  I understood what John meant, and perhaps my expectations are far fetched (and I am probably asking too much of it, though I would never ask it to pull the same size train as an RS3), but I sure hope I can pull something with it, even if that means only one car. The packaging does call it "motive power", and I realize I am in the 0.1% of people actually trying to use their Eggliners as locomotives. But if the Eggliner had the same weight as the Lil' critter, than wouldn't the pulling capacity be about the same? I would like to keep the gears intact if possible, it would save me money, and I don't want to take it apart again. So, even though keeping the factory weight would increase the pulling power, it seems that it could stress the gears more than it is worth doing. Also, the battery weighs slightly more than the original factory weight, so I by removing it weight is still added (battery is only 30 grams heavier), which makes me feel good. Realistically, the heaviest train I'd haul behind it would be 6 AMS short flatcars or a couple light 4 axle cars.

       Thank you John and Greg.

    • February 7, 2019 10:02 AM EST
    • I think John's point is that you normally don't pull a lot with a self propelled car. I would look at the motor block and since there's one, and other than the little critter, all the Aristo locomotives have 2 of these blocks, only expect it to pull 1/2 the load of a normal loco.


      A couple of cars up a 3% would be pretty much what I would ask of it long term. The motor block is capable of that easily, based on our long term experience with the motor block.


      Based on history, I'd say if you are trying to pull the most with it, keep the weight and the additional battery and decoder weight. Be aware though, that these motor blocks can strip gears, some run forever and some strip the gear on one axle... if it starts making noise check the gears.


      But finally, since spare parts are now available, you have the option to run it hard if you want, and replace the block if it fails.



    • February 6, 2019 7:11 AM EST
    • I guess I've changed my mind a bit. If I can keep the factory weight and the battery, I'll do it. Otherwise the weight will be discarded (if I hear gear noise again). Come to think of it, even with just the battery in it, it should be able to pull 4 or 5  2 axle cars. 

    • February 5, 2019 10:58 PM EST
    • I wish you the best of luck with your project.

    • February 5, 2019 8:52 PM EST
    •  I can see why you'd think that. For me, it is basically the Lil' critter with a different appearance. Admittedly, it weighs less than a Lil' critter, but the Lil' critter can pull 4 or 5 standard size freight cars on level track.

    • February 5, 2019 8:12 PM EST
    • Yep, it's a not a loco, it's a self propelled car, to me.