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    • October 29, 2019 3:55 AM EDT
    • Update:

       

      Finishing transforming cardboard into and 0-4-2T for Kid-zilla's costume took priority over Little Thomas.  On the "upshot," I have a bug that will keep me at home tomorrow, so hopefully Little Thomas will get some attention.  Procrastination aside, TrainLi just got my annual bits and pieces order, and part of it included the new motor.  

       

      I'll call that order progress and call it a night.

       

      Eric

    • October 22, 2019 2:49 AM EDT
    • OK, to get back on "track," I thought I'd post some proof of progress...

       

      As mentioned, I abandoned the hinges.  The boiler/cab never sat right, the nuts kept falling off, and it looked bad.   The hinges went in the box with the other abandoned ideas from this project , such as the surviving Tamiya motor, a rechargeable battery pack, the associated charger, a DPDT switch, Velcro taple, and original chassis for some future project.  Live and learn...

      After a good "think," Oldest Son and I got out  the miter box (also a purchase courtesy of this project) to cut some timbers:

      I should add of all my "crew," this is the one I came closest to losing to the "Silicon Succubus" (Not his fault.  Stupid parenting choice on my part in letting him watch me play a computer based strategy game a couple years back.).   Oldest Son's interest when Little Thomas comes off the shelf for  tinkering more than makes up for the financial investments in the project to date.  It doesn't always stop the whining about our lack of Play-Box-Station-Whatever 27, but it is a valuable weapon in the armory!

      Anyway back to the project...We then glued these inside the saddle tanks as shown:

      The plan is to drill tap holes through the plexi-glass deck into these "timbers" and then secure chassis to boiler/cab with wood screws.  If it works, great.  If it does not, I am out some pre-cut modeling timbers.  I will have to hide the screws' heads at some point, but, while running boards would be prototypical for the Islands, they will not survive long on the Triple O based upon the short lifespan of Diesel Dan's hand rails, steps, horn, uncoupling lever, etc.  Loved locos seem to get handled roughly, and, for whatever reason, the crew loves Little Thomas.  I like to think it is because they sense the family history in model and have invested themselves a bit into seeing "him" come to life again.  

       

      I'll try to do the test fitting this weekend.  If it works, then it is time to strip and paint the chassis.  We can then try to learn yet one more new thing - applying dry transfers - as we wait for free funds for a new Buehler motor.  Then, Rooster, I will be in the position to avail myself of your offer detail parts that make sense relative to this locos intended use and likely primary operators!

       

      I have declared "the end is in sight" before, but maybe...MAYBE...it is in fact true this time!

       

      Aloha,

      Eric

       

    • October 29, 2019 2:50 AM EDT
    • Local dealers are a blessing.  We have a similar shop that does the same for me whenever I come in.

    • October 27, 2019 9:24 AM EDT
    • Bill Barnwell said:

      ... and I valued their knowledge and that they are local dealer that I can return to if I have questions or problems.
           

       

      That is worthwhile and important thing.

    • October 26, 2019 9:16 PM EDT
    • Well since last post,  I was able to decal my builders plate on to brass paper, sealed it with a heat laminated paper and after my steady handed wife cut them out, glued them to the correct location on the smoke box, and at the same time made rope from brass wire strands that I place in a drill and twisted. Wasn't to happy with the bell rope as I selected too small a wire to twist and didn't hang right, so I made another using a larger diameter wire and liking the results. Well since last post, I have been researching batteries and types and with the help of several on the forum have selected Lipo, reason being as hobby shops are far and few between in Daytona Beach, Fl. but one that has been around for several years and even thru the down town street redo is High Fly Hobbies. Primarily an R/C plane and car dealer but they have been more than helpful with my small purchases of styrene, brass wire, and paints and I valued their knowledge and that they are local dealer that I can return to if I have questions or problems. Was able to find a battery that along with the Gscalegraphics control board, fits nicely into the tender section of the engine with room left over for their, GSG's, sound board. Have hooked up the speed control and tested and all I can say is there isn't any thing much easer, worked great. The only thing left is to complete the wiring of the R/C system, front headlight, smoke unit and want to put a flickering led's in the fire box, thanks to all with the help and suggestions, more to come, Bill

      rope     buildes plate

      X

    • October 25, 2019 12:47 PM EDT
    • Tommy Mejia said:

       I have a slight problem with my hands, sometimes they don't work.  As I was dry fitting the pilot to the chassis, my hands decided on their own, to let go.

       

       

      Ah, that's a concept I understand far better than desired. Parts separation was a better type of damage than parts breakage, that much was in your favor. Good recovery from it.

    • October 24, 2019 11:55 PM EDT
    • Well the other night didn't go so well.  I have a slight problem with my hands, sometimes they don't work.  As I was dry fitting the pilot to the chassis, my hands decided on their own, to let go.  I got to watch my pilot hit the floor and break apart.  So I gathered the pieces up and walked away. (No, I wasn't crying....there was something in my eye)

       

      So the next day, after a very stern talking to my hands, I reassembled the pilot.

      Then tonight I dry fitted the pilot and added some more rivets.  If some of the rivets look off kilter, it's on purpose.  The rivet patterns are based on the actual bolt locations on the real CP Huntington.

       

       

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie

       

    • October 24, 2019 10:16 PM EDT
    • David Fletcher said:

      Hi Tommy,

      This is coming along really nicely.  I mean reeeely nicely.  Its great to see some of these models still being built.  We did this all back in 2005!

      I had a look over the old MLS and a page some of some of the finished models is still there, and this page was from some time after the class was done, when I couldn't remember who made what!

      The models were really nicely done.

      It was a grand old time at MLS in those days - a lot of banter between the builders all helping each other.  It was neat.

      It also would lead me to designing locomotives for Accucraft, which I do to this day...6 new locos this year alone!

      Here's a link to some of those finished models - I have some more photos other other finished examples too, but no idea who built them!

      Keep at it, I'm very keen to see this one finished.  Then maybe try the Porters!

      http://forums.mylargescale.com/27-masterclass-articles/25431-masterclass-2005-cp-huntington-model-building.html

      David.

       

      Was just looking at some of the work you and others did on that CP Huntington project David, back in '05; wow. 

       

      Tommy, it's so cool that you're picking it up again; your starting box of parts seem almost a time capsule.   

       

      In that original MLS thread it looks like the main PDF's were lost, but Mike Reilly found a couple in an internet archive:

      https://web.archive.org/web/20051102021332/http://www.mylargescale.com/articles/masterclass/cphuntington/bkgrnd/cph_ch1b_01.asp

       

      Bummer that MLS lost so much data, but, well, that's why a bunch of us got fed up, and landed here... 

      [Edit to say that I apologize for any apparent dissing my friends on MLS, I didn't mean to do that! Great people still there! I meant only to point out that the file storage / disappearance problems became quite a big problem for some of us.]

       

      Your model is looking wonderful Tommy, and I'm having a lot of fun watching your skills at work. And thanks for posting all the progress pics, that's so helpful.

       

      Cliff

       

       

       

       

    • October 24, 2019 8:11 PM EDT
    •  

       

      Way outta my league but love that Russian Iron jacket

    • October 24, 2019 6:44 PM EDT
    • Hi David,

      Thanks for the words of encouragement.  Yes it was a grand old time back then.  I met you at the Queen Mary back in the early 2000's????  I am having fun building this Single and learning alot.  Thanks for such detailed instructions.

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie

    • October 24, 2019 7:25 AM EDT
    • Hi Tommy,

      This is coming along really nicely.  I mean reeeely nicely.  Its great to see some of these models still being built.  We did this all back in 2005!

      I had a look over the old MLS and a page some of some of the finished models is still there, and this page was from some time after the class was done, when I couldn't remember who made what!

      The models were really nicely done.

      It was a grand old time at MLS in those days - a lot of banter between the builders all helping each other.  It was neat.

      It also would lead me to designing locomotives for Accucraft, which I do to this day...6 new locos this year alone!

      Here's a link to some of those finished models - I have some more photos other other finished examples too, but no idea who built them!

      Keep at it, I'm very keen to see this one finished.  Then maybe try the Porters!

      http://forums.mylargescale.com/27-masterclass-articles/25431-masterclass-2005-cp-huntington-model-building.html

      David.

    • October 23, 2019 8:07 PM EDT
    • They are already on the forums Bill and have been there for years. This is Tommy's thread !

    • October 23, 2019 9:52 AM EDT
    • Rooster, would like to see some examples of your welded seams, and how to.

    • October 22, 2019 8:40 PM EDT
    • To me rivets are only good as they are placed. I'm not a steam builder though...did that once ....just make sure you have the rivets you need  are properly placed before you put it together and find out later that you can't put the rivets on it now so you have to tear it back apart. I prefer welded seams.

    • October 22, 2019 2:58 PM EDT
    •    Back in my early days I used nails but oh the holes I drilled and if the back side wasn't visible I left them whole  if not I cut them off, you wouldn't believe what the inside of this little tender looks like, "the house of torture". I also have used archer decal rivets shown on the sand tank just had a hard time getting them to stay in correct place till dry because the decal is a strip and very thin. I've had real good luck with the Mirce rivets but as I mentioned they are flat and don't show up as well but real easy to use and keeping a straight line is very easy but probably wouldn't be good in a curve or circle. Think next time I will use the Mirce rivets for placement and the 1/2 beads for the height detail. Your Huntington is coming along very nicely, spoke with Phil Jensen about them and he confirmed that they sold quite a few kits.

      tender sand tower tank

    • October 22, 2019 1:47 PM EDT
    • Bill, Thanks,  Love your rivet detail

      I think I perused about 4 or 5 pages of rivets in Search. I saw the posts about the sticky ones and decided to try this spike nail option.  There is always next time.

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie

    • October 22, 2019 12:00 PM EDT
    • There are more comments on this just search rivets, they also make ones that have sticky on the flat side

      Would like to take credit for this idea but I got it from a fellow on GSC,(ge_rik) they are 1/2 round flat backed acrylic beads 2mm in size and after gluing to a surface make nice look rivet heads. Bought 1000 for $1.00 free shipping off evilbay. You can also purchase rhinestone/gem picker pencils for a couple of $ which uses wax to stick the bead on for placement. Have been using Mirce model air plane rivets and they are great for placement, but they are flat and don't show well after paint so I have been placing a drop of super glue on top of each one which is spasmodic at best and is hard to get the drops all the same so I'm going to try theses next time, Bill

      133797_be16afef565ef7aecff7bd5bd95e71a9.jpg 

    • October 22, 2019 3:34 AM EDT
    • I needed some ideas on adding rivets to this build.  The original instructions are to cut 0.5mm thick slices from 1.6mm plastic rod and glue them on.  Searching LSC I found this thread "Boomer's Snow Train Project" where he mentions  "The rivets are Atlas HO round head track spikes #2540.  Got the idea from Barry Bogs."  So I picked some up, shorten them abit.  Applied a paper template, drilled some holes and inserted the spikes.  Thanks Boomer and Barry.

       

       

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie