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    • April 12, 2020 6:42 AM EDT
    • Want to see how do a bash on a Stainz have a look at this.

      https://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2017/04/how-i-anglicised-lgb-stainz-loco.html

      Plus there is a couple of posts on how he installed batter power into one if that is your bent.

       

      I am modifying a Stainz into a sugar cane style tank engine plus I am planning to a bash using 2 Stainz locos plus  a Newquida loco (an LGB knock off).

      So no there is no bounds to what people will do to a Stainz

      Want to look at some good Stainz bashes google Stefan Otto.

    • April 12, 2020 2:40 AM EDT
    • Is there nothing people won't do with a STAINZ?  That is really cool, Dennis.

       

       

    • April 11, 2020 10:37 PM EDT
    • I have this engine and a powered tender, not quite my style, so a little modifications, Not Done , but here is what I got so far.

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2iPosdw][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49763013566_9f631087ec_z.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2iPosdw]2b408c6990bb39b5ebc006781e6ab24ffe8bd861-20160525-113455-C1-Trainz-3888306-01[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/56388842@N06/]Dennis Rayon[/url], on Flickr

       

      Turned it into this

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2iL8Gf3][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49726184582_467c50b731_z.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2iL8Gf3]IMG_5158[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/56388842@N06/]Dennis Rayon[/url], on Flickr

    • April 11, 2020 9:44 PM EDT
    • There is a reason us railroaders call it the "Silver Suppository".

    • April 11, 2020 12:04 PM EDT
    • I agree it is too thin as a stand alone but I was thinking that the model body screwed to the frame will give it more than enough strength

      That's how my railcar was built (not by me - I acquired it that way.)

       

    • April 10, 2020 8:12 PM EDT
    • Only trying to throw in my experiences Jim ...however it's hard when you have Jedi masters chiming in like Rick Marty !

       

      That guy is hard as hell on a wheelbarrow though!

    • April 10, 2020 7:57 PM EDT
    • You are very correct Rooster. I started building the frame and figured I'd adjust the top part as needed to hold the battery and electronics plus passenger area appropriately after I knew where the drive was going, along with the chain animation. I was thinking that it is easier to avoid existing stuff as I go rather than retrofit an existing model.

    • April 10, 2020 7:53 PM EDT
    • So it's not built yet ?

       

    • April 10, 2020 7:52 PM EDT
    • That's the only picture I have, Rooster. The cab only. The back (over the top of the drive) is to be imagineered...

       

    • April 10, 2020 7:49 PM EDT
    • Rooster ' said:
      Jim Rowson said:

       

       Worried that my frame is too thin for such an attachment but I have a cross brace that I can screw through hidden under the brass doohickey.

       

       

       

      I agree it is too thin as a stand alone but I was thinking that the model body screwed to the frame will give it more than enough strength however we did not get that far yet. I only answered you on how to make it removable and how I would approach it .  An automotive uni-body frame is a flimsy worthless piece of crap until you put the body on it . 

      Was thinking when you put the body on and attach it to the frame even with some 1/32 " brass pins into the 1/8" PVC frame I bet it would be stiffer than a wedding night rooster! However this is just my experience and sometimes one needs to think outside of the box.

      Now ...if the model body cannot be attached to the frame or it's (body) too flimsy then my thoughts are out the window. Only stating my approach from what I'm seeing from you're,your (spelin) pictures that you are graciously sharing and I'm certainly enjoying.

      Keep up the good work and badge it Amtrak when finished (any paint phase of you,you're,you are choice)!

       

       

       

       

       

      Requesting a picture of the built model before going on the frame ? 

       

      Jim, I hope you don't ,do not have a case of the cart before the horse?

    • April 10, 2020 10:36 AM EDT
    • Eric and Kid-Zilla: thanks for helping me think! Much appreciated! The chains are tough to make work with a truck, particularly if the truck can swivel. The way the original 1926 chain drive works is a small sprocket on the frame drives a larger one on the axle. Those are 2 of the reasons I gave up. Sad!

       

      Dan: Thanks. I am going to stay put for a while longer so that will have to wait...

       

      Cheers!

       

      [edited to correct bad spellcheck..what I get for posting from my phone I guess...]

    • April 10, 2020 10:17 AM EDT
    • Jim,  Both Workbench hardware stores in our town carry K&S Brass for modeling.

    • April 10, 2020 1:31 AM EDT
    • Jim,

       

      Kid-zilla and I are pondering this...What if you were to get a second set of wheels the same size as your powered drivers, mount them all in a brass sub-frame as mentioned above, then mount the lot to the underframe of the truck?  Your false chain drive would connect the two wheels, giving you a reason to have two, and some of the engineering and stability issues listed above - strength, stability, tendency to rotate about the axle - might be resolved?   It would also divorce the cargo frame area from the load bearing and driving problem, giving you time and space to tinker.

       

       

      Eric

    • April 9, 2020 7:59 PM EDT
    • Thanks Rooster and Rick...

       

      do not have that brass on hand so will need to noodle on it...

       

    • April 9, 2020 7:37 PM EDT
    • Jim,

      Have you considered a rectangular brass tubing to build the frame out of, it will solve a lot of the problems that are floating to the top.

      I have used this method on several scratch builds and it works very well. 

      Of course now you run into soldering issues if your not comfortable doing that.

      Just a thought.

    • April 9, 2020 7:17 PM EDT
    • Jim Rowson said:

       

       Worried that my frame is too thin for such an attachment but I have a cross brace that I can screw through hidden under the brass doohickey.

       

       

       

      I agree it is too thin as a stand alone but I was thinking that the model body screwed to the frame will give it more than enough strength however we did not get that far yet. I only answered you on how to make it removable and how I would approach it .  An automotive uni-body frame is a flimsy worthless piece of crap until you put the body on it . 

      Was thinking when you put the body on and attach it to the frame even with some 1/32 " brass pins into the 1/8" PVC frame I bet it would be stiffer than a wedding night rooster! However this is just my experience and sometimes one needs to think outside of the box.

      Now ...if the model body cannot be attached to the frame or it's (body) too flimsy then my thoughts are out the window. Only stating my approach from what I'm seeing from you're,your (spelin) pictures that you are graciously sharing and I'm certainly enjoying.

      Keep up the good work and badge it Amtrak when finished (any paint phase of you,you're,you are choice)!

    • April 9, 2020 2:10 PM EDT
    • Thanks everybody for the encouragement and ideas. I'm thinking more about how to mount this puppy.

       

      Pete: I had already figured out that it would try to rotate itself without a good solid mount. Clearly what I've done so far isn't good enough for that but I was working towards that kind of mount.

       

      John: Your advice is well taken. Thinking about how to make this be a separate, stiff module that can be attached to the frame. Would also help with Pete's advice.

       

      Rooster: I like your idea, with Rick's modification. Worried that my frame is too thin for such an attachment but I have a cross brace that I can screw through hidden under the brass doohickey.

       

      Again, your advice and ideas are really valuable to me. Thanks!

       

    • April 9, 2020 1:55 PM EDT
    • Just for info, here's a pic of the small Bachmann truck that is available from the Parts dept, if they ever re-open. I used it on the front of my railtruck. Those are small Bachmann 26mm wheels, and the curly spoke wheel was just there to be looked at. The bolts are holding the pickups in place and were trimmed.

       

    • April 9, 2020 1:49 PM EDT
    • I think your motor is hanging a tad low....

      Jim, these kind of drives need to be very solidly mounted so they can't rotate around the axle - which they will try to do instead of turning the wheels.  The attached pic shows a Fosworks drive, just like the NWSL (and also no longer available,) with the big plate that fit on the motor lugs to stop it rotating.

    • April 9, 2020 11:02 AM EDT
    • Make a sub assembly for the motor and Wheels. I think you are too dependent on your foam frame. I'd rather the frame merely hold it true to the track than holding moving parts in alignment.

      Combine that with Marty's reinforced frame ideas ...