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    • July 5, 2021 3:35 PM EDT
    • I managed to squeeze in a few hours at Jerry's, where a couple of big trees fell on his garden in last weeks big storm, but not on the layout, so we ran trains while he waits for the tree guy.   The loco ran very nicely, as you'd expect from a Bachmann 2-8-0.



      I'm also contemplating the details needed to finish it off. We took it into Jerry's workshop and parked it next to his Bachmann Baldwin 2-6-6-2T. The domes lift off so we dropped them on my loco. They are still available from Bachmann Parts, so it might be the easy way to add detail between the tanks.



      The other thing we talked about was the long overhang on the rear under the cab. The 2-6-6-2T has a rear truck quite a long way out back. The Hammond Lumber loco is a 2-8-2T anyway, sp maybe mine needs some pilot trucks.


      I dug in gthe wheels box and found some Sierra Valley wheels that I bought in error years ago when changing my C-16 pilot. What do you think of it as a 0-8-2T?



    • July 4, 2021 1:21 PM EDT
    • And there goes the roof extension. While the wife was out this morning, I got the micro table saw out and cut it down. Looks much more prototypical, I think.



      The guy who sold it to me tried to glue the bunkers to the footplate, but you saw how well that worked. I wanted to screw them so I started drilling from underneath, and found there is an air tank either side right where I want to put a screw. The air tank seems to be held on by 2 screws but they are almost inaccessible because of the lower boiler curve. I settled for a screw at the front and a peg at the back.

    • July 3, 2021 2:01 PM EDT
    • So, onward and upward . .


      Al's valve gear arrived in one piece, so I had to decide how to attach his bits to mine. While working on the frame, the rod had decided to get caught and broke at the other end. So I figured that I could dremel off the back of the pin and pull it out. Which I did.

      Then I had to get the new rod free and keep some of the pin so I could squish the back of the rivet to hold it in place. As I had the gear loose, I could support the head of the pin and tap it out from the back. Enough of the end came out that I could squeeze it in the new position on my engine and it is holding nicely.  Here's the new gear on the left, with the long pin in the middle and the old one and part of the rod on the right.


      And mounted on the loco. P.S. I did have some masking tape over the gear underneath while I was working on the loco.



      At the front, I bolted on the pilot, and you can see the brass nut. A splash of flat black and it will look like all the (fake) Bachmann ones. The coupler pocket had a crude Bachmann coupler at the low level, and I use bodymounts, so that came out and I drilled a hole down through the pocket to let me insert a link-and-pin, Accucraft or regular Bachmann. Or even the original drop shank version. Turned out to be diecast, so it was a pain to drill.



      Screwing the cab to the body was easy, and you can see the screw heads in this pic. The bunker droops when unsupported, but there are 2 lugs on the frame that support it when the chassis is connected.



      And finally, as you can see in one of the early photos, the cab roof extends completely over the bunker, so I don't know how they would ever get coal in it. Looking at the underside, there's a clear extension piece that can be ripped off by the table saw. And the bunker no longer droops.


    • July 3, 2021 1:44 PM EDT
    • Pete Thornton said:

      have you given Plastruct Bondene a try?

      Not yet. Star Hobby has a large display of different plastic glues - hopefully they have some of that!

       I looked on my shelf and I an using Plastruct General Purpose cement. It works great on styrene and similar stuff.  I wonder if the "Bondene" is different. Have to give it a try.


    • July 2, 2021 3:26 PM EDT
    • Fred, Methyethylketone (MEK) is no longer available to most of us in the states. The Gubmint has decided it must protect us from ourselves. There is an 'alternative' available, but it is not worth a tinker's damn for solvent welding. Lacquer thinner is in the same genre I believe. There are a few states that have not outlawed those but the numbers are dwindling.

    • July 2, 2021 1:51 PM EDT
    • Lacquer Thinner and MEC give the same "Welding" action on Styrene, at much less cost. I use it all the time, and purchase it by the quart at Home depot, at around $6.00 Canadian....BUT  try to remove any paint on the styrene before attempting the weld. 

        Fred Mills

    • July 2, 2021 1:29 PM EDT
    • have you given Plastruct Bondene a try?

      Not yet. Star Hobby has a large display of different plastic glues - hopefully they have some of that!


    • July 2, 2021 12:43 PM EDT
    • Pete have you given Plastruct Bondene a try?

      Dissolves a thin layer of each surface to form a welded joint as strong as the surrounding area. Bonds Styrene to Styrene, ABS to ABS, Butyrate to Butyrate, and Acrylic to Acrylic and most alike plastic combinations.


    • July 2, 2021 12:27 PM EDT
    • Can the rear bunker be screwed in place?

      Yes. It fits under the cab floor, and while the screws will be visible, I am going to use 4 small ones instead of 2 big ones.

      I'm sure I could use regular Gorilla glue, but I'm hoping someone has found something that works. Regular plastic glue worked on the small steps, so they must vbe different plastic.


    • July 2, 2021 11:56 AM EDT
    • I never did find a glue that would work.  My solution was to make a part from brass and mechanically attach it.  (Sorry, not much help there. ). Can the rear bunker be screwed in place?   (Have you tried E6000? It's not a plastic glue per se, but often works)


      Looks neat.  I like your "rewiring".

    • July 2, 2021 10:45 AM EDT
    • So moving on - I tried to glue the rear bunker to the cab twice, using 2 different types of plastic glue, and neither worked. Its a thick plastic - maybe ABS? Anyone know a good glue that will fix Bachmann bodywork?


      I have bolted the front pilot on, as he was trying to glue to the diecast frame. I am planning the screw the side tanks on, as I need access if I decide to put batteries in them. The rear bunker will get screwed as well, unless I can find some glue that works!


      Then having found the instructions for removing the body of a 2-8-0 (which I didn't need, as half the firebox, etc., is missing,) I took a look at the chassis. All the wiring and pcbs are gone - just a plug to some flimsy motor wires remained and the chuff trigger plug. I checked the wheel pickups were there but I couldn't find any place to connect them to the motor. Then I realized the chuff wires weren't attached to the 2 solder pads I could see, and close inspection showed up 2 snipped wires from the pickup pcb that runs along over the wheels.

      This photo shows the snipped wires (red) and the 2 pads (green.) I soldered a new set of wires and put it on the test track and it works.


    • July 2, 2021 10:40 AM EDT
    • That's a really cool build, I like it.  

    • July 2, 2021 10:36 AM EDT
    • I spotted this unusual construct on FB offered by a guy from the UK. It was incomplete, but looked like an interesting project. I thought it looked like Hammond Lumber #17, which is now running on the Mt Rainier Scenic RR.



      This is what he sold me:





      Eagle-eyed viewers will recognize the origins as a Bachmann 2-8-0, The side tanks come from the Baldwin 2-6-6-2, as does the rear coal bin.

      Unfortunately, the seller couldn't find a cardboard box - this is how NOT to pack a heavy loco for transport:



      As I pointed out to him, without an exterior box, the weight of all the other boxes in the truck are resting entirely on the locomotive. And the inevitable result:



      Practically speaking, very little was broken. The rear brakeman's steps [why does Bachmann always make them so fragile? You'd think they'd have learned to put metal frames/straps on them?]  The rest of the parts were things he had glued together - not one glued joint would stick.

      The worst part was that the eccentric crank was broken due to the packaging. Fortunately, Al sold me a spare set of valve gear so it is repairable.

    • July 4, 2021 6:06 PM EDT
    • Well, after a week of 100+ temps, we had a beautiful 80 yesterday. The new IC unit led the work train fixing sun kinks and rough spots.


      I see Rooster has reappeared, and with a period after his name. 


    • July 1, 2021 10:49 PM EDT
    • David, has anyone ever told you that you sound just like Rooster. 


      Thanks Joe. It's pretty small on this one with the headlight on the nose. 


      John, I don't think I'll do a build video as I didn't take a whole lot of photos. Hopefully this weekend it will cool down enough to run trains and I can post an action video.  


      Thanks Mike. Yes, they are very plain, but have a tough look. That's neat. The SD70's are pretty common up here too.  





    • July 1, 2021 9:37 PM EDT
    •   Nice loco Shane . I like the ordinary look ( that's the only adjective I can think of now ) of the IC paint scheme . Where I live the old E.J.and E. runs through Plainfield Illinois . The C.N . as you know acquired the  "E" and the local that runs through town has been powered lately by 2 Illinois Central SD 70 standard cab engines in the black paint. They seem to always have 8 to 10 tank cars going to a local distillery . I'm glad to see them still around . They are usually real shiny clean too , go figure.

    • July 1, 2021 9:27 PM EDT
    • i hope there is a video


    • July 1, 2021 8:57 PM EDT
    • Nice looking Death Star Shane!!

    • July 1, 2021 6:32 PM EDT
    • Just like Steam .....Diesels are only a fad ....however I still love them !

    • July 2, 2021 10:17 AM EDT
    • A big shoutout to Al. His spare valve gear arrived yesterday, so my loco will run again!