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    • May 13, 2018 9:18 AM EDT
    • I had not yet removed the centering spring for the original swinging coupler, you can see it in the front truck if you look closely, this just pulls out of the truck body.  I put this and all the electrical track power pickups in a zip lock bag as I converted to onboard battery at the same time.  This way I can convert the engine back to "as built" configuration should I wish to sell or trade the engine off.  Mike the Aspie

    • May 13, 2018 9:14 AM EDT
    • I, like many, love the LGB F7 diesels, but the front truck position really bothers me, its to far forward and throws off the balanced look of the prototype.I wanted to document this modification here for beginners that might be considering the LGB F7 but like me, are bothered that the front truck sits to close to the pilot skirt and needs moved rearward toward the fuel tank to "look" more correct. When you look at the pics, the folks at LGB knew this might be an issue as there are 2 unused factory screw holes to move the truck bolster rearward. But when you do this, you have to body mount the front coupler. I reuse the coupler mount but remove the linkage plate and centering spring from the front truck. I then drill a small hole thru it and the pilot frame and put a single LGB philips head screw thru it to hold the mount to the frame. I use LGB knuckles as they behave the best on my tight radius curves. I then remount the front truck using the rear most holes for the two bolster mounting screws. A simple, easy peasy, modification that really improves the look of a fine model. 

      Here is a pic with the front truck hanging off to one side, you can see the original coupler mount in its position, but screwed to the frame of the engine. You can also see the two pairs of bolster mounting holes in the frame, front set is the stock position, the rear pair is where I move the bolster to once I mount the coupler to the locomotive's frame. I will take a nice side shot here in a little bit on my layout. 


    • May 12, 2018 2:55 PM EDT
    • One other thing,

      Because the Annies have finer details, you have three options for the pilot and braces.

         1) use the standard pilot and braces.

         2) purchase pilot rails and screws and use them with the Annie pilot. These are sold out, but what I did was to order them individually and also the screws.

         3) use the Annie pilot and your old rails (braces). I drilled a hole the same diameter as the rail exactly between the two small holes in the Annie pilot where the Annie rails would mount.





    • May 12, 2018 2:26 PM EDT
    • Danial,

      I have replaced four of my Big Haulers with the Annie chassis. What I did with the air tanks is remove the two screws from the rear of the tanks that hold them onto the running boards, moved the tank rearward, and reassembled. You'll have to drill a new hole for the front mounting screw, lengthen the notch in the tank to fit. Basically your just moving the air tank back about 1/4 inch on the bottom of the floorboard.

      One other area of concern is the Annie chassis have a second plug on the Engineer's side of the switch at the rear. It's for the back light. You'll either have to notch the rear of the cab or remove the plug.


      You'll definitely like the Annie chassis better then the standard ones.



    • May 11, 2018 9:05 PM EDT
    • The saddle is part of the smoke box/boiler and the steam chest is part of the cylinder assembly on the chassis. It fits either smoke box saddle.

    • May 11, 2018 8:40 PM EDT
    • Back with pictures. Green is Big Hauler and Red is Annie. Now I'm not sure how much of saddle on Annie is part of frame and how much is molded to boiler shell.

      Do kindly overlook the several years worth of dust and cat hair.



    • May 11, 2018 8:23 PM EDT
    • Daniel

      NMGRR has done the very mod you are speaking of many many times with no problems. The only thing is exactly what Joe said. Shorten the air tanks to fit and you are in business.

      Make sure you are ordering the ones with the all metal linkage and mains. They cost more than the plastic but are well worth it.

      You are going to be very pleased with the annie drives.

    • May 11, 2018 8:09 PM EDT
    • Yea, the air tanks are the gotcha.

    • May 11, 2018 4:19 PM EDT
    • Daniel,

      The latest chassis will fit the earliest track powered boilers (gen2). I did just that several years ago. The only mod I had to do was shorten the air tanks because the Annie cylinders are larger. I have since converted that loco to battery/RC using the Revolution system (everything in the tender).


    • May 11, 2018 1:48 PM EDT
    • The key word is 'major'. It will take some modifications. Right now, the details of what they are escapes me. But I want to say, not sure though, that somewhere out there on the wild wide web there is a web page detailing the process, though for which years' versions I do not know.

      Okay, have a Big Hauler and an Annie up on a shelf about eye level. Are rather dusty from residing there a couple years.

      Main difference visible from exterior appears to be in smokebox saddle; is narrower on Annie chassis and therefore smokebox part of shell is fuller at bottom.

      Screw points under air tanks, under walkways, under cab, all look same.

    • May 11, 2018 1:17 PM EDT
    • So, would the annie chassis fit? Without major mods?

    • May 11, 2018 12:59 PM EDT
    • I would think that anyone of those chassis would fit. The Big Hauler body didn't change much, except for added details. It's basically the same as an Annie.

    • May 11, 2018 12:40 PM EDT
    • Needless to say, I'd rather use the annie chassis, if it'll fit.

    • May 11, 2018 12:39 PM EDT
    • I searched the threads here, but cannot figure out the answer to this question.


      I have a 2nd Generation Bachmann Big Hauler 4-6-0 that doesn't run very well. I want to replace the chassis. I understand the annie chassis may not fit it (or will it?) If that is the case, will any or all of the chassis at this link - - fit it, or do I need a specific chassis, and if so, how do I tell which one to order?

    • May 2, 2018 8:32 PM EDT
    • Keep the pics coming !

    • May 2, 2018 2:12 PM EDT
    • Some new photos of RI #10000



    • April 30, 2018 4:04 PM EDT
    • I tend to recommend a knuckle coupler without draft gear, since often it's another loco you are coupled to.


      I get enough coupler swing from the tender ahead to be able to have a fixed coupler mount, and the slender shank of the coupler and not putting a big draft gear box usually looks better and takes less surgery.


    • April 30, 2018 2:33 AM EDT
    • Kadee do working replacement couplers for the Annie/Big Hauler see here and here That's how I did mine, very simple and effective. These two coupler conversions work at the same height as Spectrum and AMS stock not the Big Hauler stock height.

    • April 29, 2018 11:11 PM EDT
    • Daniel Collins said:

      These two new 4-6-0 locos have a fake front coupler. At first glance, it looks like a knuckle coupler, but it doesn't open, and it doesn't mount like a real Bachman knuckle coupler. Anyone have any experience in replacing these with a real, working coupler. What does it take?

      A lot depends on the type coupler you want to install. It will take a bit of butchery and innovation, but it can be done.,23753.0.html


    • April 30, 2018 6:01 AM EDT
    • I had to remove the skates on my LGB 4 coupled locomotives, so that they could haul a train up to the summit on my railroad.  They still run well, even without the skates. But, I do have to make sure the wheels are clean. Once the wheels start getting dirty, they do tend to run a bit jerky. 


      As for the contact area on a skate, you can see by the wear on the skates,  that the contact area is larger then it would be on a wheel. And the way the skates are shaped, there are actually 2 contact points on each skate, versus one contact point on a wheel.