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    • August 10, 2018 2:30 PM EDT
    • Sorry Todd, that's right, you mentioned the enclosure, but then I fixated on the "fuel tank"...

       

      Did you purchase this enclosure from somewhere, or "liberate" it from a dead TV? (link?)

       

      I forgot I can use that vent since I'll dump the old smoke system.

       

      Greg

    • August 10, 2018 2:14 PM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

       

       

      Paul, looks like Todd just put a speaker facing down. I'm with you I like at least one speaker firing through the fans, and you can really hear the difference in fidelity that way, especially the higher frequencies of the bell and horn. In fact all my recent installs on F3's (10 of them) and GP7's (3 of them) have a speaker in the "tank" and one pointing up through the fans... and they do sound great.

      Greg

       

      No...,  I use a Philips enclosure designed for flat screen televisions.  This enclosure has two 2" "woofers," a 1" dome tweeter, and a ~2" x 5" passive radiator on the back. 

       

      The speakers face up while the radiator faces down.  The tweeter and near woofer center under the rear vent.  (Tweeter to the right and woofer to the left in picture.)

      The volume switch now serves as a "fire cracker" antenna.

       

       

       

      The older FA/FB was not as ameniable to mounting a speaker in the "box."

    • August 10, 2018 12:13 PM EDT
    • Thanks Todd, I seem to remember the ubiquitous Aristo "box".... Aristo was pretty famous for "repurposing" components

       

      Jerry, I'm pretty well aware of the Ottawa Valley site , although I believe my site predates theirs ha ha... at least the excellent articles mostly by Paul Norton... but I don't do battery for myself, I am all DCC...

       

      Paul, looks like Todd just put a speaker facing down. I'm with you I like at least one speaker firing through the fans, and you can really hear the difference in fidelity that way, especially the higher frequencies of the bell and horn. In fact all my recent installs on F3's (10 of them) and GP7's (3 of them) have a speaker in the "tank" and one pointing up through the fans... and they do sound great.

       

      Michael, yes I have a friend locally who has been designing speaker enclosures, and I've posted a few links. Go to my site and look up the USA Trains GP7 pages and the F3 pages, there's a lot of pictures.

       

      I'll put a couple of links in for those interested in the enclosures:

       

      F3: https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/usat-motive-power/f3/f3-dcc-install

      (first part is speakers w/out enclosures... scroll down to the second part for the 3d enclosures)

       

      GP7: https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/usat-motive-power/gp7/gp7-speakers

       

       

      I won't post all those pages and pictures here.

       

      Greg

    • August 10, 2018 10:51 AM EDT
    • Greg and Todd,

       

      Do you have pictures of the speaker enclosures your utilizing? I have several engines awaiting speakers and such. I've used the fuel tank's for enclosures on several engines in the past. I seal them up to work like a speaker enclosure, its make a notable difference.

       

      Michael

    • August 10, 2018 9:54 AM EDT
    • Greg,

      My two cents. I like what Todd does.  Whenever I can I put speakers in an enclosure facing up under the fans in my diesels.  I think the sound is better.

    • August 10, 2018 9:14 AM EDT
    • FWIW, the Ottawa Valley Garden RR Society has a very nice page with lots of tech tips and projects well explained

      Including battery/RC install in the Aristo FA1.  While it does not address the speaker, perhaps it may be of some use for surgery.

      http://ovgrs.org/the-trains/battery-power-radio-control-and-sound/aristo-craft-plug-and-play-fa-1/

       

      Jerry

       

    • August 10, 2018 1:47 AM EDT
    • Sure, why not???

       

      That's why I called it a tool box/air tank even though there is a fuel filler cap.

       

    • August 9, 2018 9:52 PM EDT
    • My fuel tank has holes drilled in it... looks like for a speaker... at least I assume the black box between the trucks is a fuel tank... they use the same enclosure on the passenger cars?

       

      these are my first and only FA-1's, and Ted Doskaris has converted them from basket cases to running locos... both chassis were damaged like you might expect a 4 foot drop would do. Bought them pretty much sight unseen.

       

      I've been getting custom enclosures made for my USAT diesels, but maybe a nice speaker box inside would be better than the fuel tank.

       

      I can also put 2 speakers in it if needed.

       

      Greg

       

       

    • August 9, 2018 9:38 PM EDT
    • Do you have any of the AristoCraft streamliners?  They use the same central tool box/air canisters (in silver), and IIRC, mine are factory drilled with holes for a speaker.  Take a look.

       

       

      For my FA (Phoenix analog sound), I pretty much gutted the cab and removed the smoke stuff to fit a Philips enclosure inside that was designed for use with flat screen TVs.  It just faces upwards.

    • August 9, 2018 9:19 PM EDT
    • The FA1's fuel tank was designed with screw holes for a speaker

      Richard

    • August 9, 2018 8:54 PM EDT
    • I'm about to put sound into 2 Aristo FA-1.

       

      1. Did Aristo ever put a speaker stock into the FA-1?

       

      2. If so, does anyone have a picture.

       

      3. any other speaker installation pictures or description of their speaker installations.

       

      Thanks, Greg

    • July 28, 2018 4:04 AM EDT
    • John,

      Yeah, who knew?  My folks discovered the store on a trip to break in their tow-behind camper.  It is right next to "Big Nose Kate's," which makes a mean jalapeno calzone!

       

      Aloha,

      Eric

    • July 27, 2018 10:08 AM EDT
    • Eric I'm glad you're up and running Gustav again.

      Thanks for the link to the Tombstone store, I never would have thought of there, I tend to avoid tourist traps unless, say, we are taking a bunch of Englishmen there , then it was quite funny!

      Good to see Kid-zilla doing his thing!

    • July 27, 2018 4:04 AM EDT
    • All,

      I am please to announce that Gustav returned to service. 

      The proprietor or Western Edge of Tombstone discovered multiple small faults (bent and stressed rods, links, etc.) in addition to the split and worn gears that, coupled together, rendered the old fellow unrepairable by a neophyte like myself.  With the various parts removed, it was clear that 10 years of service and 20 years of storage had take their toll.  In the end, having a pro fix him saved me money and frustration.  Money spent on learning is money well spent!

      Oh, assuming the video worked, you might be interested to note Kid-Zilla then performed the ritual derailment to welcome Gustav home:

      Thanks for the help and guidance on this project!  I am glad to close this thread on a happy note!

       

      Aloha,

      Eric

    • July 26, 2018 11:25 AM EDT
    • 2-6-2 prairie

      Posted by chocho willy on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 2:59 PM

      tender coal load2-6-2 kitbashed prairieleft side center boilerright side center boilerRemember the "G" scale coaling tower that came with the first battery powered 4-6-0 Bachmann train sets, well this is the engine from that set. Just now getting around to making it hole again and finishing details I left off years ago. Built in 1995 hence the engine # 501. Lettering has disappeared and sound system has failed but all in all engine is still in good shape, I shortened the smoke box by 1 set of rivets and shortened the boiler up to the last boiler ban. moved the steam generator to the center. Again as before I used cotter pins with pop rivets bases to make railing stanchions. Use to drive by an old Prairie up in Leesburg, Fl. when I covered that area, took pictures and did research on the engine. Unusual to see electrical wires run through the boiler grab rails but that was the way it was built, Shortened the tender by about an inch, trying to keep the engine /tender as short as possible. mounted the boiler on a LGB Mogul motor block and added trailing truck from a LGB 2080. Rope is copper wire strands twisted. If you notice the air tank on the back of the tender it is a cigar tube that my dad had. The fireman is screwed to the draw bar between the engine and tender and when the train is moving, he moves all around. Originally had a flat plate under him which is now open and cant find the part. Plan on cleaning the engine up and lettering the tender again. I also have a LGB Mogul and use it for my passenger train, the prairie is my freight. I will up date pictures as I progress, Bill 

      X

    • July 25, 2018 2:29 PM EDT
    • E. Paul Austin said:

      ...I DON'T [need] another rod engine at this time, i.e. too many now! 

       

      Hmm, I vaguely recall saying that to myself a time or three. Usually right before I buy another engine. I'm a sucker for deals that are too good to pass up.

       

      Seriously, I like it. It's got a beefy look to it. I'm working (very slowly) on a 2-6-2, also.

       

       

      I'm using the frame from a Bachmann 4-6-0, though heavily modified. Stumbling block right now is the frame to the rear of the drivers and trailing truck. Not sure how I want to go forward on that yet. Plastic is easy, but weak. Aluminum or brass would be better, but do I want to mill it myself or have it cut for me? This one's been on the shelf for a few years while other projects have jumped ahead. Probably time to get back going on it...

       

      Later,

       

      K

    • July 19, 2018 5:44 PM EDT
    • I like it , nice work Daniel . The rusty running boards and overall grime look very realistic.

    • July 19, 2018 5:15 AM EDT
    • Looks real nice.

      In order to get even weathering on the running gear, I set my engine on a wood block and powered her up. With the drive wheels turning at a slow to moderate speed while I slowly added layer after layer of grime, I didn't get the "shadow" lines on the drivers. You know, those areas of no weathering on the driver because a rod was between the driver and the airbrush.

    • July 18, 2018 8:38 PM EDT
    • I'll give it a try...

    • July 18, 2018 7:52 PM EDT
    • Me too ....Dan if you want to work the weathering like mother nature does wet down some 1000 grit (for starters) sand paper and work/drag from the top too the bottom just like mother nature does.