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    • April 4, 2020 9:09 PM EDT
    • Ted Doskaris said:

      Hi Dan,

      I thought about this, too, for sometime, but being I have several Aristo GP40s, I did not pay much attention to it.  Since Aristo is out of business, it now will make for a good project that you can pursue with the excellent skills you have.

      Thanks Ted.  After making the Comfort cab for the GP38-2, I started working my way back and made the dynamic brake for the GP40.

      Now I think I'll cut the SD40-2 shell and make a GP40-2LW so I can use the Cab and also make a large fuel tank (better sound)

      One exterior item that may distinguish the GP40-2 from the GP40 is the "Electrical Cabinet Air Filter" (that I call the "Dog House") located behind the left side of the cab, prevalent on the SD40-2 and the GP40-2 pictured above.  I just completed rebuilding my UP SD40-2 from just a shell & chassis purchased sometime ago.  Its Dog House is shown below.

      When I last checked with Mike at USA Trains parts, the Dog House is not available. Coincidentally,  the Dog House was missing on my friend, Colin Camarillo, SD40-2, so he is currently in the process of doing the 3-D print of that part.

      My shell did not include the dog house either but it seems the CN GP40-2LW's don't have them.  Instead there is a low cabinet.  I Also noticed the Dynamic brake on the SD has 2 fans so maybe I'll use the one I created instead!

       

    • April 4, 2020 7:06 PM EDT
    • Hi Dan,

      I thought about this, too, for sometime, but being I have several Aristo GP40s, I did not pay much attention to it.  Since Aristo is out of business, it now will make for a good project that you can pursue with the excellent skills you have.

      Pictured below is a prototype Canadian Pacific GP40-2, albeit without dynamic brakes, that may be of help.
      [img]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8f/CP_4657_%288703748501%29.jpg/1280px-CP_4657_%288703748501%29.jpg[/img]

      One exterior item that may distinguish the GP40-2 from the GP40 is the "Electrical Cabinet Air Filter" (that I call the "Dog House") located behind the left side of the cab, prevalent on the SD40-2 and the GP40-2 pictured above.  I just completed rebuilding my UP SD40-2 from just a shell & chassis purchased sometime ago.  Its Dog House is shown below.

      [img]https://elmassian.com/images/stories/motivepower/USAT/sd40/sd40_exp_kadees/USAT_SD40_exampleDogHouseBehindCabComposite.jpg[/img]

      When I last checked with Mike at USA Trains parts, the Dog House is not available. Coincidentally,  the Dog House was missing on my friend, Colin Camarillo, SD40-2, so he is currently in the process of doing the 3-D print of that part.  

      -Ted

    • April 4, 2020 5:20 PM EDT
    • One of my projects is to convert a USAT GP38-2 to a GP40-2.  Last week I bought an SD40-2 shell and frame because ...  Well just because it was $50 and I figured I could do something with it someday.  Today I'm looking at the shell and think "the body sure doesn't look much longer than a geep when the porches are off."  So I place it on a GP38-2 frame and Whoah! 

      Looks like if I cut about 18mm off behind the cab, I've got a pretty close representation of a GP40-2!  Anyone done this before?

    • April 3, 2020 2:45 PM EDT
    • And for the two axle truck no matter where you put it it will need to pivot. 

    • April 3, 2020 2:43 PM EDT
    • Jim I think you should stick with it, lol. Have the only front wheel drive rail truck. I am sure the same arguments were made for the first front wheel drive cars lol. 

       

      Unless you are shooting for authentic and then it really should be in the back. But inamngood with what ever you do. It's your railroad and it's right if you say it's right. 

    • April 3, 2020 11:57 AM EDT
    • Dan DeVoto said:

      Jim, here's what I did with my track Inspection Woody.  Most "real life" rail trucks, cars, etc. had the drive wheels in the rear with the pivoting truck in the front.  Most vehicles that were converted to railway use had an motor in the front with a drive line to the rear wheels.  Having the pivoting truck to the front may help tracking ability. Good luck Jim, looking forward to the conversion.

      https://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/20982/hubley-track-inspection-car

       

       

      Casey   Jones rail truck

      I like your Spare wheel, even a doughnut size!

    • April 3, 2020 11:01 AM EDT
    • Thanks all. I may rethink...

    • April 3, 2020 9:48 AM EDT
    • Jim, here's what I did with my track Inspection Woody.  Most "real life" rail trucks, cars, etc. had the drive wheels in the rear with the pivoting truck in the front.  Most vehicles that were converted to railway use had an motor in the front with a drive line to the rear wheels.  Having the pivoting truck to the front may help tracking ability. Good luck Jim, looking forward to the conversion.

      https://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/20982/hubley-track-inspection-car

       

       

      Casey   Jones rail truck

    • April 3, 2020 8:28 AM EDT
    • 2 single axles would not have to pivot, but a 2 axle truck would need to pivot in order to go around curves.

    • April 3, 2020 7:33 AM EDT
    • Jim

      Usually were the load is you would want the drive wheels ( traction ) ... The load in the back would make the front lighter .. hence the drivers in the back with the load pushing down .. just saying.. 

    • April 2, 2020 11:44 PM EDT
    • Thanks Korm. I'll think about that. I'm currently thinking about not having anything swivel. Not sure if that will work.

    • April 2, 2020 8:40 PM EDT
    • Jim,

      don't forget to plan for a chain-tensioner.

      when the rear truck can swivel, the needed length for the chain will vary.

    • April 2, 2020 12:17 PM EDT
    • I have faith in you Jim 

    • April 2, 2020 10:54 AM EDT
    • Thanks Bill.

       

      Sean: Yeah, I am probably being difficult but it just isn't my cup of tea. I'm at least going to try putting the 4 axles in the back for now and see what happens. I may end up bitterly disappointed. We'll see...

       

    • April 2, 2020 10:51 AM EDT
    • HBRR Rail Truck Large Scale Central - Advanced Forum Detail Topic - What have you ... Mack rail truck | Rail car, Old trains, Model trains

      They don't look too bad withe the drive in the back ..

    • April 2, 2020 10:49 AM EDT
    • Jim, good luck with your build, I have now doubt we will see and completed project in the near future, Bill

    • April 2, 2020 10:38 AM EDT
    • Eric: Sadly the frame on each side is a continuous length of "metal" with no wide spots. I may just build my own frame and make it narrower and/or build journals out to hold the wheels in place. May not use the full truck on the back. Not sure. I'm kind of mentally set on having the 4 axles be on the back, not the front. It just looks better to me...

       

      Sean: You are very right. The sprocket should have been shown on the 2 axle truck but it isn't possible to see much (nor is it possible to fit the sprocket inside the truck. So I just stuck it on the single axle driver. This means that the chain drive will just be for show and won't actually be part of the drive mechanism. I can live with that.

       

    • April 2, 2020 7:16 AM EDT
    • Isn't this were the drive wheels should go ?

    • April 2, 2020 2:17 AM EDT
    • Gents, 

       

      Thanks again.   Mike, there are no missing parts, and, as Bill suggested, the poor fit is more a matter of a poor picture.  The motor, Mike, is held in place by the port and starboard side of the chassis.  A motor block lid then drops on top of the assembled chassis.  This is held in place by four screws, two on each side.  The whole is made fast with a couple screws around the cab, and, to some extent by the wheels and axles themselves.  Per Dan's warning of years ago, I have been observant of the issue of quartering, so I do not suspect that to be the cause.  Oh, and Greg, this is the original motor.  There is no observable damage.

          Like Bill said, this seems to be an issue of wear… but where?  And, like Greg said, it has to be in the drive train.  Because both idlers get stripped each time I "fix" Glitchy Gustav,  I am inclined to think the motor is, in fact, sitting wrong.  Since it is grinding out both idlers at once, wouldn't this suggest:

      1. The motor wiggles port-to-starboard, eventually binding the idlers. 
      2. The idlers themselves no longer spin true, eventually binding on the drive gears, much to their physical detriment
      3. The axles no longer spin true, eventually locking one or more of the drivers.

       

           As for what I am willing to spend, Greg, this has been a running thought project.  I am willing to take the time to engineer a solution.  Monetarily, I am at that "Las Vegas Rules" tipping point.  Since i am in over $100 (I had already purchased long-lost detail parts before this issue with the gears), I have reached a point where I am willing to spend for a permanent fix, but I am not willing (or allowed) to throw cash at experiments anymore.  I have considered buying a used one on e-Bay just to enjoy the look of this loco on our railroad again (trust me, it somehow looks "right" amidst our tight curves and bright flowers), but the proposal met with universal non-approval on the Homefront.  The style of the locomotive is evocative of some of the side tankers that ran out here, so fitting this shell to another chassis of a different wheel base (2-4-2 or 0-6-0) is on the table, but, for the moment, probably beyond my skillset.  Probably...

       

           Glitchy Gustav is in parts (again), and I am happy to take new, hopefully better pictures of the internals if that'd be useful.   I'll call it a homeschool class in "mechanical engineering" and get some help and credit with the crew's teachers.  Otherwise, I am going to bolt him back up to avoid losing parts.

       

          Thanks to all for the renewed interest and continued discussion.  Having shredded the gears through misassembly of my recently re-animated m2075, I am hoping to use this to avoid a similar chain of missteps in the future if not to get this loco back on the tracks.

       

      Aloha.

      Eric