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    • March 1, 2018 6:58 PM EST
    • Sean or Greg do either of you have the wiring data on that Train Li unit?

    • March 1, 2018 6:30 PM EST
    • Yes, but those are DCC decoders, right?  I already have a decoder, and G3 DCC output certainly can't drive a smoke unit.  I'll have to use the DCC data to cobble together a driver that directly powers the heater.  

    • March 1, 2018 6:27 PM EST
    • The Zimo will drive anything, so will a QSI:

       

       

    • March 1, 2018 4:58 PM EST
    • Thanks, Dan.  I'm using a G3, so that's not an option.  I'll figure something out.

    • March 1, 2018 4:18 PM EST
    • I have installed the Zimo decoder in the USA Train Hudson several times and I used the USA Trains smoke unit.

      The Zimo decoders allow you to control the heater element at 3 different values (standing/slowing down, running, accelerating).

      The fan is controlled for stopped/idle, running, and heavy load/uphill.  The fan circuit in the decoder does have a clamping feature for the fan motor bemf.  Newest decoders have 2 fan control circuiits (steam chimney and steam chests, or 2 diesel stacks).

    • March 1, 2018 11:03 AM EST
    • Eric Reuter said:

      Sean: what are you using to drive the Train-Li unit?  A Zimo decoder?

      Yes

      Dan Pierce did my install..

    • March 1, 2018 10:09 AM EST
    • Sean: what are you using to drive the Train-Li unit?  A Zimo decoder?

    • March 1, 2018 10:07 AM EST
    • Eric Reuter said: In any case, the output is still lame.  

      I agree ..

       

    • March 1, 2018 9:50 AM EST
    • I pulled the thermistor out of my TAS unit, and the chuffing behaves as intended now.  The thermistor was resting on the heating elements, and was scorched.  I don't know if it's supposed to actually touch the elements or not.  I think the microcontroller was seeing this as overheating, and turning on the fan to cool it.  In any case, the output is still lame.  

    • March 1, 2018 9:00 AM EST
    • The Train-Li unit requires a driver for the fan. The more I dig into this, the more I want to develop a driver. Lots of possibilities. Dynamic braking for crisp chuffs, different accel vs. decel behavior, etc. There is a product called SUPER-CHUFFER that does some of this, but it tailored to a specific O scale control system. 

      Im also looking at the MTH units. 

    • March 1, 2018 8:02 AM EST
    • Greg what is your recommendation?

    • February 28, 2018 10:36 PM EST
    • Massoth is not too super, best is direct control of the heater and fan and lots of current to the heater.

       

      Have you seen the Massoth in operation?

       

      Greg

    • March 1, 2018 6:44 PM EST
    • Supposedly rubbing alcohol will loosen the hold hot melt glue has on items. It would be less risky then trying to pry the boards out/apart.

    • March 1, 2018 10:38 AM EST
    • Max Winter said:

      I have the live steam version of the C-19 and the way into the tender, and gas tank, is by lifting out the coal load. I assume there would not be any major tooling up difference between it and the electric version.

      Max,

      Yes I believe that both the steam and electric versions of the tender are the same. My problem is that the coal load opening is only slightly larger than the electronics inside. Some of the boards have been hot-glued to the card beloit. Breakage of the boards is my biggest concern. Once I have them out and remove the old battery, I will find another solution to installing batteries in the future. 

      Thanks for the verification that the tank shell doesn't come apart separate from the frame. So much easier on a inexpensive Bachmann Connie tender :). Shell removes with two screws.

    • March 1, 2018 2:38 AM EST
    • I have the live steam version of the C-19 and the way into the tender, and gas tank, is by lifting out the coal load. I assume there would not be any major tooling up difference between it and the electric version.

    • February 28, 2018 10:29 PM EST
    • Thanks Greg,

      Apparently the tenders on these C19's were made a little different. NO screws. Seems like a very difficult way to manufacture.....tank must be soldered to the frame. Strange.....

      Talked to Tommy Mejia tonight and he says his Accucraft #41 is all one piece. When he replaced his battery a few years ago, he had to pull everything out through the coal load opening! Ended up breaking the on/off switch and cracking one of the boards! Everything was "hot-glued" in place. Jonathan also did Tommy's installation a week before he did mine. I guess I am going to have to do some surgery to mine :(. Not happy. At least I don't have to worry about the rear light....#346 didn't have one!

    • February 28, 2018 4:12 PM EST
    • My AML K-4 tender had 10 screws underneath and the shell lifted off.

      The wires to the rear headlight and marker lights were very short, could be ripped out easily.

       

      Greg

    • February 28, 2018 2:54 PM EST
    • Hi folks,

      I have a brass Accucraft C19 electric locomotive #346 Green Boiler that I purchased from Jonathan Blues (EMW) back in 2008. He did all of the install of the Phoenix Sound and AirWire wireless. Has a Phoenix G2 card.

       

      My problem is that finally after 10 years, the NiMH battery in the tender is just about gone. I will have to replace soon. When Jonathan did the install, he was able to do a very clean job. But I'm not familiar enough with what he did, to start to remove "items" to get at the old battery, remove it and install a new one. My question is can the upper tender shell be removed from the tender frame without damaging something. It IS a beautiful all brass tender. Any suggestions from those who have familiarity with this particular tender and engine. Cliffy is retired from Accucraft or I would have called them for advice.

       

      Thank you for any assistance :).

    • February 28, 2018 11:29 PM EST
    • Very nice. Tell us about the custom electronics. What's cookin' ?