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    • October 9, 2019 10:51 AM EDT
    • Yes they are totally separate blocks would work great for bashing and the wheels unbolt so you might be able to fine drivers off of old LGB clamshell blocks that might fit, Bill

    • October 11, 2019 11:10 AM EDT
    • Eric, and progress/resolution on your issue?



    • October 11, 2019 10:54 AM EDT
    • Took the railtruck to the Spa Creek & McKendree RR yesterday and it ran pretty much as expected.  Plenty of prototypical gear noise!



      I reversed the rear truck (and the front, so the polarity stayed constant,) as it seemed noisier in the forward direction.  It has a little paint on the driveshaft.  It runs quite slowly, as the bevels are 3:1 ratio and the original truck is 1:1.



      I also brushed some paint on the tools on the roof, as they looked odd being all the same gray!




    • October 10, 2019 5:02 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      With a shaft that long, you may want to cobble up a center support bearing of some sort, so the driveshaft doesnt deflect too far to one side. Just a thought.

      With the eccentric universal on the back, it already deflects far too much!  (But thanks for the thought.)  I had wondered whether to include a center bearing, but it would have involved another universal.

    • October 10, 2019 5:00 PM EDT
    • I agree, I was wondering how you could have that long of a driveshaft without it whipping around a lot. Of course a center mount on a square shaft might be tough.



    • October 10, 2019 4:09 PM EDT
    • With a shaft that long, you may want to cobble up a center support bearing of some sort, so the driveshaft doesnt deflect too far to one side. Just a thought.

    • October 9, 2019 5:29 PM EDT
    • I had a couple of minutes before our guests arrived so I flipped it over and wired up the rear truck, added pins in the universals so the square tube doesn't fall out, and reassembled it.



      I then put it on some rollers and clipped wires to the front, and it worked.  (I was amazed.)  The driveshaft wobbles atrociously due to the out-of-round non-concentric shaft I drilled, but I left it running while I touched some paint to the tools on the roof and it seemed to settle down and start to run less rough.

      If I was keeping it I would (perhaps) buy another yoke and find a way to make it centered.  Maybe it's prototypical that way?  Anyway, tomorrow we do a track test on the Spa Creek & McKendree RR. . .

    • October 9, 2019 3:39 PM EDT
    • Makin progress.

    • October 9, 2019 1:29 PM EDT
    • The Bachmann parts turned up very quickly, and the Climax yoke looks like it will work.  (This is part of the driveshaft on the Climax - one end has gears and this end does not, as only one power truck drives the shafts.) It has a square (sliding) join which my brass tube will fit, and when you take the plastic collar off and remove the piece of frame, you end up with a 4mm shat that has 2 raised parts to keep the gear turning.  It was easy to drill a 5/32 collar to 11/64ths to slip over the 4mm shaft.



      However, the inside of the shaft is a screw hole, so that has to be drilled out 3/32' to slide on the truck driveshaft.  Not easy to make it concentric without a proper lathe (which I don't have,) so mine is a little eccentric.  It shouldn't matter, as the whole shaft isn't balanced or properly engineered to be inline.

      The collar has indentations cut with a dremel cutting disk, very crudely, to fit over the shaft projections and stop it spinning, and I drilled out the plastic shaft for the setscrew to go right through it and hold the whole thing on the shaft.



      So far, so good.  Now to cut the square tube to length, pin the thin piece to the plastic universal at  the motor end the thicker one sliding over it to the truck at this end (with another square tube piece as filler.) Then connect all the wires and test.

    • October 11, 2019 10:47 AM EDT
    • Jerry finally got back from his epic trip to Stavers, Sacremento for the NNGC, etc.  So the 4-4-0 got to stretch its legs and demonstrate that the gear works and is quiet.


    • October 11, 2019 12:35 AM EDT
    • Here is the taller styrene version of the pilot next to the optional Hartland pilot.




      Rio Gracie

    • October 9, 2019 3:28 PM EDT
    • The CP Hunting parts kit (Prime CPH Kit) was created for the CP Huntington Miniclass.  It is a large array of stock Hartland parts put together by Phil Jensen.  Cost from Mid April 2005 through Mid May 2005 was $148.00 US.  After Mid May 2005 the cost was  $185.00 US.


      Prime CPH Kit


      Bag 1:  Headlight Kit, Headlight Bracket


      Bag 2: Smoke Stack, Bell Kit


      Bag 3: 4-4-0 Pilot Deck, 4-4-0 Cylinders, 4-4-0 Cylinder Caps - Front, 4-4-0 Cylinder Caps - Rear, 4-4-0 Valve Chest Cover, 4-4-0 Valve Gear Crank, 4-4-0 Cylinder Oilers, Hand Rail ends, Pair Crossheads, Crosshead guide support, Pilot Truck frame, Pilot truck frame drawbar, Axles, Pilot Wheels


      Bag 4: Tender truck frame w/ electric pickup, 4-4-0  2” drivers, Main rod modular end, Crankpins - Short, Gear Box Assembly - Large Motor

      Bag 5: Cab kit


      Bag 6: Tender Tank kit


      Bag 7: #1 Boiler Front Number, Drivewheel electric whisper assembly, whistle, Boiler check valves


      No worries,



      Rio Gracie

    • October 9, 2019 12:19 PM EDT
    • Cliff Jennings said:

      That's such a great project Tommy. I haven't heard of a Hartland "Prime CPH Kit." 

      That was a bunch of parts that they put in a bag for the Masterclass project, I think at David Fletcher's urging.  I don't recall what is in the bag though!  Maybe Tommy can share the price and contents with us, just out of curiousity.

    • October 8, 2019 11:34 PM EDT
    • That's such a great project Tommy. I haven't heard of a Hartland "Prime CPH Kit." 

    • October 8, 2019 9:14 PM EDT
    • I began by putting up the full-size drawing of the CP Huntington 4-2-4T for inspiration.



      This is the Danforth Cooke Cab version I will be doing rather than the CP Huntington originally shown a couple of sentences down.



      I then spent hours going through the boxes and envelopes, perusing the Class chapters and trying to identify what I have and what I need to get.  I ordered what I needed and now await delivery.


      As for what I had done in 2005: I had cut the 2mm and 1mm pieces by hand and had begun cutting for the boiler.  Not a single piece had been glued. 







      Rio Gracie

    • October 10, 2019 5:11 PM EDT
    • Its been a busy week.  Not only finishing the drive train on my Railtruck, I helped Jerry replace his cracked std Railtruck back axle gear with the one off my truck, and then tried to deal with the plunger pickups on his front truck.



      The metal bars I arrowed are the holders for the wheel pickups, which you can just see behind the wheels.  You can also see I soldered wires to the contact pads in the body around the pivot.  We couldn't persuade solder to stay on these bars, and I didn't want to take it all apart.  The center screw holds on a cover over the pickup extensions, so we spread as much wire under that as possible and screwed it back together.  It seems to work.


      Then we got to work on his Heisler, which has the same useless plungers on the top of the truck.  The back truck is easy, as the pivot is under the cover under the PCB under the coal.  The cover has the silly spring arms to contact the plungers, so if you release the truck and take the cover off the wiper plate on top, you can solder wires to the truck contacts and then to the springs for the wipers inside the coal/water bunker.


      Fortunately, the plungers on his front truck were working so the loco is now usable.  Access to the front truck is not so obvious.  It looks as if you can remove the front of the smokebox, unscrew the smoke unit holder and slide it forward, and then the screw will be accessible through the stack hole. 
      Anyone know how to do this?


    • October 9, 2019 4:29 PM EDT
    • This afternoon I fixed a Bachmann GE 45 ton Diesel which refused to operate with both trucks at once.  It was new, but those silly plungers are just a pain.  If any 1 of the 8 isn't contacting perfrectly then it doesn't run - one truck tries to pull the other.  (I hear the Heisler is the same, and I know the front truck on the Railtruck is also plunger driver.)


      Jerry and I took it apart per Kevin's instructions, and I soldered wires from the pads on the truck to the contacts on the loco, as you can see.  I kept the position the same - I even got the red-black right on one truck.



      Oh yes, the instructions from Mr K:

      The plungers are crap. You’ll want to hard-wire the truck to the loco. There’s room to put a small 4-pin plug at the top of the truck if you want to make things detachable.

      To get to the trucks, pull the body off. You’ll need to release the fuel tank first. This exposes the 6 screws which hold the cab in place. There are then 2 crews at the ends of the two hoods. You’ll find two elevated PC boards under each of the hoods, then on the floor, a smaller PC board held to the floor with screws. This is what carries power from the trucks and to the motor. Keep track of those wires. Removing this board exposes the screw which holds the trucks to the chassis. Remove that screw and the trucks drop out. 
      On the truck, you’ll see 4 open contact areas on the PC board. I’d have to check to remember which two go to the motor and which two to the track, but they’re opposite each other—north/south for one, east/west for the other. You should be able to solder to those pads without too much trouble, though you’ll need a thin tip on your soldering iron to reach through the openings. 
      In fact there was little need to keep track, as on this loco the boards were marked: motor-1,motor-2, con1, con2. I just threaded new wires through the plunger holes and reconnected them to the board where the appropriate plunger used to be. I left 1" or so of wire under the floor so the truck could swivel.

    • October 9, 2019 10:42 AM EDT
    • Jason V. said:

      Bill, Looking good! Can’t wait to see it finished.


      Thanks Jason, getting close to that point, right now I'm working on builders plates then to battery and control


    • October 8, 2019 6:34 PM EDT
    • Bill, Looking good! Can’t wait to see it finished.