David Maynard said:

So, how does the drive assembly swivel when its all mounted to one frame?

If you can find a copy of this it will answer that,

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48105350771_abf6fbbf12_c.jpg[/img]

Oh, you were probably asking about the model, well, anyway, the book is worth reading.

David Maynard said:

So, how does the drive assembly swivel when its all mounted to one frame?

David I haven't gotten that far but plan on doing it like LGB's Forney (which is really a mason bogie) or their mallet. Got most of the info from http://www.ross-crain.com/rr_dsp6e-fletcher.htm

 and http://www.pacificng.com/ref/mason/pdf/Dave-Fletcher-Iss33April-09.pdf, but when I get it figured out I'll post it, Bill

XX

So, how does the drive assembly swivel when its all mounted to one frame?

More done on the Mason Bogie project and was able to get the Lionel cowcatcher placed and attached to the frame 

new update on the Mason Bogie project: decided to keep the orange stripe on the side of the tender then messed around for naming on the side of it, wanted my The Falls with progressing downward flow like my other tenders but rivets and silhouette lettering don't mix and that are is full of rivets, then printed words coquina falls in two different lines and installed above and below the rivets and still didn't ring my bell, was trying to simulate Breckenridge, Tenmile, etc. but just didn't work out, but did find a picture of one that had a large engine # in that area and am now working on a stencil so I can paint it on. Been working on the cylinders and although the spreewald engine that I'm using for the drive had round cylinders the upper valve part didn't look anything like walschaerts valve gear I made one to fit on top of their round cylinders using the tops to a old battery powered Bachmann set that I had. Surprisingly the spreewald plastic for their cylinders is model masters compatible and bonded great. Now the side rods and valve gear isn't quite the correct kind but close enough for me + the tops for the cylinders were a little large but fit nice and really don't look out of place, you know me not a rivet counter but like rivets which will be added later. will up date this thread when more is done, Bill    

True.  Fellow at Piko was really nice.  Now to figure out how to remove the boiler so I can tuck back in it's lower section that was mis-assembled.  (See photo if I can get it attached)  I got the diagram on line, but doesn't say much about how to disassemble.  And I want to do my homework on that so as to not hurt anything.

Can't add phoeo

Dennis

They have some great people there in San Diego at Piko

Thanks.  Called them.  Got help.  Found info via their website, it just takes time to learn and navigate.  Ordered parts today by telephone.  

Thanks.  Called them.  Got help.  Found info via their website, it just takes time to learn and navigate.  Ordered parts today by telephone.  

Thanks.  Called them.  Got help.  Found info via their website, it just takes time to learn and navigate.  Ordered parts today by telephone.  

No.  I will.  Thank you.  (PS:  Years ago my Dad used to take his race car to Langley when there was a track there - 'been a long time....)

Dennis

Have you try to contact Piko in San Dirgo at 877-678-44409

Just got my first Piko locomotive:  a lightly used BR24, (37220).  It runs just fine.  However, the boiler does not set properly into lower boiler shell and this causes the left running board to sit warped.  It is also missing the left, "elephant ear."  Before I take it apart to properly reassemble it, I'd sure like to see or find an exploded diagram so I know how things are really supposed to be.  I've searched on line and cannot find any real Piko parts source, manuals, said diagram, or......anything.  I suspected they did not have the support LGB does, but am surprised to see things this slim.  Anyone have any tips or an exploded parts view of my new addition?

Thanks, Dennis in E WA

Not going any deeper on Pete's thread, what little else there is to see can be found here http://www.raccooncrkrwy.com/plc-2.html

is gonna try and shop out his gears from an RC car hobby store

It's actually quite fascinating where this stuff takes you.  For several years, back in the '60s in the UK, I got in to slot cars. In those days they used simple beval gears, but brass, not delrin/nylon/ ? plastic.

And today, when I search eBay for bevels, I find that at least 2 manufacturers here n the US were selling brass hypoid bevel gears.  Do you know how tricky they are, and how much the Climax steam engine guys want some?
[P.S.  Those gears on the Model T  are hypoid, as the drive shaft is not in the same plane as the axle.]

Aaron Loyet said:

 

 

Gary, any chance we could learn more about that Heisler?

Aaron,

Only if we are lucky enough for him to do such. Love to see more myself and refresh my memory.

 Pete (the original poster) is gonna try and shop out his gears from an RC car hobby store as he stated in another thread.

Nice rail truck!

Gary, any chance we could learn more about that Heisler?

I believe gears like that can be had from Stock Drive products https://www.sdp-si.com/ Don't blame me for sending you there, they have almost everything you can imagine for drive projects. I got the bevel gears used in this scratch built Heisler truck from them

Nice!

A short while ago on Facebook a gent posted some blurry photos of his father's collection, and asked if anyone would like to buy the lot.  I spotted a bunch of railcars and trucks on a shelf and asked about the red railcar - thought it might be an old Aristo brass model T.  Turned out to be a modified diecast model and he kindly held it back when someone came and bought the whole collection.  I was intrigued by the drive, so we came to an agreement and it turned up yesterday.

Here's the photo he sent when he took it down from the shelf.  Still not very focused.

Then his kids got their hands on it and dropped it, breaking all the gold plastic bits.  I took it anyway, and here's what it looks like with the headlights, spare wheel and back seat all glued back in.

It appears the owner removed the old chassis and made a new brass one.

As I mentioned, the drive was interesting, especially that back axle.  Initially I wondered if the drive went through the axle, but no.

It seems to be made of metal or very hard plastic, and is a skew or hypoid bevel, where the input and output shafts are not on the same plane.  The Climax geared locos used these type of skew gears to drive each axle from the driveshaft that went across the top of both trucks.  (Anyone ever seen anything like this gear set?)

Anyway, you will note the whisker track pickup on the wheel - there's one on each wheel.  It appears to spin the motor, but I haven't persuaded the car to move yet - the wheels seem dirty, it had no oil, and the bevel gears don't seem to be meshed completely.  We will persevere.