Greg  Your input is always welcome .

That's what I thought , I was just wondering if I couldn't find a brass tube that size , if it would effect the output.. 

Although not asked, I'd say you will not get any more smoke output, the output from the Zimo looks as much as the stock USAT. I think you need to tweak your heater settings to get more smoke, I do not think you are limited by the openings.

Looking at the video closely, there is a trickle of smoke from the booster stack.

Greg

Richard said:

Come on Sean just cut the funnel off and epoxy a tube in. If you don't like it you just get another top (there around) and change it back.

Richard

And if you were real nice? and offered some compensation he might make a top.

 

Richard .. ( he knows some things )   what would happen if say I , opened up the port were the smoke escapes , will that improve or decrease smoke output ?

See the bump on the smoke box just forward of the stacks at about 10 o'clock?

They had an internal feed water heater and vented steam through the stack arrangement.

Well, I thought the big plume of clean white steam was a whistle, but perhaps it is just a release valve... in any case, as I look at it, the dark smoke comes from the front stack.

so at 2:05, I see something confusing, coming from the front stack is a lot of white steam, and you can see chuff "pulses" of darker smoke...

So what would explain this?

2:42 clearly shows the smaller tube is the smoke stack from the firebox..

2:53 shows a ddifferent stack arrangement, but perhaps a clue, the big stack has smoke, the smaller one has water and maybe some steam bubbling out...

At 16:48 you can see a "dual stack" version with the smoke coming from the front, and steam from the rear at the same time.

In any case, prettty interesting, and bears further investigation... bottom line, I would probably take the same route as Eric.. or maybe a bit from both, but want to learn more.

Greg

p.s. After more research, the J1e's had a booster engine, and I believe the smaller stack is the booster stack, did some more research, and actually came back the usa trains site:  http://www.usatrains.com/usatrainshudson.html ... click on the link that mentions the exhaust stack...

Eric that front stack is clear not the whistle but a exhaust for the cylinders look a little after 19 min.

Richard   

That’s confusing, because there is clearly a whistle farther back on the boiler.

In any case, the opening to that front stack is maybe 2 mm. Not much smoke is going to be coming out of there. 

When I embedded, the reply box had a large shaded blue area and an icon in the middle. Once I posted it displayed as it should.

Seems so, you can see "dark smoke" from the "front" stack, and you can see white clouds of steam from the "rear" stack, indicating a whistle.

Good catch.

Cannot embed the video to save my life

https://youtu.be/OVXgSn86Y1c

Greg

FYI 2 stacks?

From a Rapido site....

"At the front was the exhaust stack, while hidden behind in the shroud was the whistle. Although the casting appeared to be a double stack, all Hudsons had a single stack."

Seems as though your smoke should be from the front Stack

edit; shrouds were on streamlined units.

Sorry for the delay. I‘m running trains today at Rockin’ Ribfest in NH. 

My Hudson does have two stacks, but I didn’t bother with the smaller one. I actually made an adapter that attempted to steal some smoke and direct it to the small stack, but it didn’t really work. I’d have to move the smoke unit forward to get it under both stacks, or move it back and run tubes. It wasn’t that important to me, so I just blocked it off. 

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Eric does your Hudson have two stacks like you see in my video ?

I noticed your piece is only allowing for one stack.

I only see one stack on Eric's loco, apparently they made different smoke boxes / stack(s) per road name and practice.

edit; I looked closer and saw the lead stack.

Richard said:

Come on Sean just cut the funnel off and epoxy a tube in. If you don't like it you just get another top (there around) and change it back.

Richard

And if you were real nice? and offered some compensation he might make a top.

That is what I was thinking , but maybe he wants to play with another design. I wonder what would happy if the hole was enlarged some ...

Either is fine with me..

The second thing .. new top ..interesting..

Actually I probably have 3 times as many steamers then what is pictured. A few are basket cases, bought for parts, but most I have plans on running...someday...eventually.

Yea, I will probably never get sound into all of my locomotives.

That is an old picture of my storage area. By now I must have twice as many steam locomotives then what is pictured. Them darn Porters, and other small locomotives, just seam to multiply when I am not looking.

Yes David, it is quite possible!!!  I have 12 or 13, all with RCS and Sierra Sound, and I can not run them all.  And yes I have some favorites - like a 2-8-0 one BBT chassie and an Annie Boiler, A 3 truck Shay which I like allot but save as it is breakable!

Paul

Is that even possible?

Nicely done!  Makes think I would like to do that too.  I had an HO 2-6-2 which I sold some years ago, would like one in Fn3 (G Scale) now.  However, I DON'T another rod engine at this time, i.e. too many now! 

Paul

  Been working on my 2-6-2 prairie, got the space below the fireman finished and cleaned the wheels on the tender and engine. Being as this engine has been sitting for a while I figured I better lube it up, and good thing as in the gearbox area I found it covered with a white substance, more like flakes and dust and plenty of it on the gears and body of the gear box. So I pulled the motor block assy out so that I could examine the top side and it was even worse. Found the culprit was the lead weighs at both ends of the motor housing. They had oxidized and the flaky oxidization was covering just about everything. So a good cleaning with plastic safe electronic cleaner and new oil ( trying some new stuff called liquid bearing ) got it all back together to test. No go, nothing so started checking and found that not only is the new lubricant very slippery it is also a very good electrical insulator, and I mean very good. Of course most oils are same but even after wiping off surfaces with a clean rag I was still unable to get a ohm reading thru the electrical contacts. So back with the electronic cleaner and testing. finally everything was in working order then finding a bad motor and replaced it, now having a running engine. Cleaned the lead weights off and spray painted them with a rattle can. The engine has been sitting in the garage for sometime and it is rather humid here in Florida and guess the moisture just got to it especially with the hurricane last year. So be careful with the led weights and lubricate sparingly, Bill