Well, here's the evidence that the reworked motor actually works.

Open flame in my workshop is a health hazard.BTW, I forgot my Bachmann password, as I very seldom use it.  After two days, I still haven't gotten an email from them about getting a new password.  Tomorrow I will call them, and Ozark Minatures (but that's a whole 'nuther problem)!

Dick Friedman said:

It looks like getting the universals off the new motors doesn't look to difficult --  cutting disk should do it.  Sweating off the worms not so easy.  Maybe I should 3D print the worms?  I'll see how difficult designing a worm is.

Dick, the gear puller is a pretty useful tool. Here's the one I use: https://www.zoro.com/proto-jaw-puller-j4041/i/G7515286/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9ZDeBRD9ARIsAMbAmoaaKC6W-Uk-aYBpAkaZth11kdPcKensny22VPngxvPf9ukNKBHEMpMaAr_NEALw_wcB

Ace Hardware has this gear puller for $7.99.

You could warm the brass gear with a soldering iron, but I find a miniature blowtorch useful for all sorts of things besides freeing stuck gears!

It looks like getting the universals off the new motors doesn't look to difficult --  cutting disk should do it.  Sweating off the worms not so easy.  Maybe I should 3D print the worms?  I'll see how difficult designing a worm is.

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_202&products_id=1491&zenid=8lg95qdr3kdib1g7iduhur2aq1

Or search the eStore for Part No H61206

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=66

Thanks, I had a page on my web site:

https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/lgb-motive-power/forney

Perhaps while it is fresh in your mind, you could review my disassembly instructions and help me fine tune it or correct it.

Thanks, Greg

Greg...I started with Glenn's suggestions below.

Glenn Bianchi said:

Digging up an LGB parts manual for you engine on the web will be helpful, if you have not done so.  They are pretty good at helping reverse engineer it.     I recall screws under bunker, then cab screws as well as screws for boiler backhead are also underneath. Ashpan. Tender bunker should “jiggle” out.   Smokebox and attached handrails will partially “slide“ out of boiler tube once two tiny screws on either side of smokebox are removed.  Only go as far as to disengage the handrails from the cab, which should free cab (theres a small nipple on top of boiler that “locks” the cab to it) and allow disconnecting of smoke unit and headlight etc should further disassembly be required. (hence why you cannot remove smokebox completely in previous steps) This sequence may not be spot on but best that I can remember off hand.  I hope this helps. 

 

 

Good luck, 

glenn

That was the easy part though...you have to gently raise the cab over the little character glued there...I did it ever so gently but once it was clear the boiler and cab together slipped right off.  I then unplugged all of the wiring from the pc board behind the weight.  Although I haven't done it yet there is a single screw in the roof of the cab at the point where the boiler meets...I believe you unscrew that the boiler and cab will be separated.

Hope this helps.

Richard

Could you share what the magic trick is?

Whew!!.. Got the boiler and cab removed from the chassis...now I can take a look at the electronics in the hopes of wiring this dude with RC/Battery...and taking the screening logos of so I can put Stan's "Santa Fe and Disneyland" logos in their place.

Richard

Thanks Glenn...I did manage to find and print the parts manual.  I've gotten everything quite loosened up but am at the point where I'm not sure how to remove the cab from the boiler...it seems like one piece, however I know it is not. There seems to be a tiny screw in the cab just under where the boiler meets the cab...not sure how I'm supposed to get in there...

Richard

Digging up an LGB parts manual for you engine on the web will be helpful, if you have not done so.  They are pretty good at helping reverse engineer it.     I recall screws under bunker, then cab screws as well as screws for boiler backhead are also underneath. Ashpan. Tender bunker should “jiggle” out.   Smokebox and attached handrails will partially “slide“ out of boiler tube once two tiny screws on either side of smokebox are removed.  Only go as far as to disengage the handrails from the cab, which should free cab (theres a small nipple on top of boiler that “locks” the cab to it) and allow disconnecting of smoke unit and headlight etc should further disassembly be required. (hence why you cannot remove smokebox completely in previous steps) This sequence may not be spot on but best that I can remember off hand.  I hope this helps. 

Good luck, 

glenn

Looking for some words of wisdom and experience with removing the cab of an LGB Forney.  I've removed the screws underneath and the rear lifts a bit, but it seems still attached to the boiler.  Playing it very gently as I do not wish to break or snap anything...

Richard

Great "bashes", John.......

Before we moved into a senior retirement community, I really enjoyed building "bashes" like that as well...  

Super job........ 

Much as I love imagination, I'm going to stick to reality, since my wish-list fantasy locos are actually achievable, given the wonders of 3D printing et al.  My first choice would be my beloved SP&S E1 Northern, #700.  I got a quote from a fine gentleman over here in yUK who advised me that if I obtained an Aster S12 he would convert if for me, including the radical tender rebuild necessary.  All I had to do was to find the extra £3500 on top of the £6500 base price.

My second/third choice, that I actually gave a lot of consideration to doing, was either the GN Y-1 electric, or even the gigantic W-1.  Common sense prevailed in the end, but then, this post isn't about common sense, right?

Kenneth Matzick said:

 

Here is a worthwhile candidate. Might have to re-think some tunnels and bridges for weight and boiler overhang. That's what stopped the Rio Grande from going ahead with the plan. In 1:20.3 this would be a great outside frame locomotive. It could replace 2 of the larger K class and save on your crew costs. 

 

 

Build it !

You have the plans .....I dare you !

Here is a worthwhile candidate. Might have to re-think some tunnels and bridges for weight and boiler overhang. That's what stopped the Rio Grande from going ahead with the plan. In 1:20.3 this would be a great outside frame locomotive. It could replace 2 of the larger K class and save on your crew costs. 

Jim Rowson said:

Forest provided the link to gearedsteam.com and this crazy engine caught my eye:

 

 

 

Brings to mind a Mark Twain quote, "Truth is stranger than fiction, but it is because Fiction is obliged to stick to possibilities; Truth isn’t.—Pudd’nhead Wilson’s New Calendar."

Playing in Google found this trucked locomotive from same railway company, http://yarmouthhistory.ca/yarmouthhistory/Albums/Pages/Remains_of_Nova_Scotias_New_France.html#2

The locomotive “Maria Theresa” was built in 1897 for the W&NFR by Robb Engineering & Co., Ltd., Amherst. President D. W. Robb is seated at the throttle; standing behind him are Emile Charles Stehelin and (perhaps) Emile Jean, his oldest son. Although the locomotive is on iron rails in the factory yard, it was designed to run on rails constructed from wood logs, 20–30 feet long, squared on three sides and laid with the rounded side up. (PH–56–19, YCMA)

Drat!