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    • March 29, 2017 8:10 AM EDT
    • Thank you, everyone.....

    • March 29, 2017 7:04 AM EDT
    • Fred Mills, BSc, (Sd, ss) said:

      One start would be; where to find diamond tread Styrene sheet, in 1:24 scale, or there-abouts.

         Fred Mills

       

       

       

      try this Fred

      http://scaleartparts.com/cgi-sys/defaultwebpage.cgi

       

    • March 28, 2017 8:16 PM EDT
    • Fred,

      Here is how I redid my Annie at the last "shopping" the deck plate was one of the additions.  The plate is .032 embossed aluminum, this type of aluminum sheeting is most commonly used for covering walk in freezers or cold boxes.  To find some I would check with a refrigeration company or sheet metal shop.  

      If I remember correctly the back of this engine has been altered some from stock so your deck plate may not fit like this one does.  The edge against the cab is rolled over a wire edge and the pin in the center anchors it so it floats up and down like a hinge.

      Rick

       

       

    • March 28, 2017 8:03 PM EDT
    • Steve Featherkile said:

      Forrest, the software here at LSC doesn't play well with spaces in file names.  You will have to rename your files without spaces to post them.

      Since the file name is generated by the Photobucket website I expected altering it would make it not work.

    • March 28, 2017 7:28 PM EDT
    • There was an thread here on LSC about adding that plate a while back. But I forget who did it, or exactly when it was.

    • March 28, 2017 6:28 PM EDT
    • Success is good!

      I thought "Any suggestions would be very welcome." counted for suggestions for any other things to do.

      My tube hinge has the inner rod able to be pushed out to remove the apron plate.

      I initially thought deck plate meant the pilot deck and then thought maybe it is the apron, that could also be called a deck or plate.

    • March 28, 2017 6:17 PM EDT
    • Thank you guys....I'm only interested in the deck plate, at this time. I have already body mounted the loop part of the coupler on the tender, moving it back 1/4", leaving the hook part as is, on the locomotive. I've made up one deck plate, and am using fine Styrene tube to create a hinge, mounted to the locomotive. Closer coupling still allows the locomotive to negotiate a 5 foot curve without problems.My deck plate is a bit shorter than the one you showed, but still seems to float nicely on the tender floor.

       I have already moved and replaced the electrical connection, lower, and below the deck plate as you have done. The brake wheel on the tender will be relocated out of the way of the floating deck plate.

      Before I go much farther; I'll make up a few more deck plates, modeled after the first one, seeing as it seems to want to play well....

        Thanks again...

       Fred Mills

       

    • March 28, 2017 5:40 PM EDT
    • replacing molded coal load is something else to do.

      or lengthening smokestack.

      or if you have some kind of kinky overly bright headlight fetish.

      Big Hauler 4-6-0 can be spiffed up quite nicely, and for me that's a lot of why they are fun, I'm that kind of guy.

      [URL=http://s196.photobucket.com/user/FSW4picts/media/G%20gauge%20projects/IMG_3364.jpg.html][IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/G%20gauge%20projects/th_IMG_3364.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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    • March 28, 2017 5:19 PM EDT
    • I've done a couple different things depending on how much effort I wanted to put in to cleaning off top of pilot beam. And in working on adding pilot decks I discovered the smokebox to pilot braces distort the forward frame by pushing it down a bit, but, hey, it's Bachmann, what does one expect.

      (You should see the HO 0-6-0 I got in November, sheesh)

      Also, am pretty sure smooth steel was employed before treadplate. When wanting treadplate I've used Plastruct's treadplate sheet labeled 1/48 scale as 1/24 seemed far too large. Since it is .020 thick I lmainated it to plain sheet styrene of .015 or .020, I forget.

      Also useful is hinged apron between cab and tender.

      Something else which can be done is make the tender coupler cut lever actually work; even while taking train set curves.

      Bell rope and whistle pull can be added.

      Rain gutters/drip strips and window awnings can be added.

      [URL=http://s196.photobucket.com/user/FSW4picts/media/G%20gauge%20projects/IMG_3937_1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/G%20gauge%20projects/th_IMG_3937_1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

      [URL=http://s196.photobucket.com/user/FSW4picts/media/G%20gauge%20projects/IMG_7208.jpg.html][IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/G%20gauge%20projects/th_IMG_7208.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

       

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/M49C9n][img]https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5653/29571686533_655960620f.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/M49C9n]IMG_4249[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/dwm440/]Forrest Wood[/url], on Flickr

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/TacqHK][img]https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2892/33578273021_fa0aeb5725.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/TacqHK]IMG_5285[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/dwm440/]Forrest Wood[/url], on Flickr

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/SLEhD1][img]https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3950/33323234450_8f7205e9ea.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/SLEhD1]IMG_5284[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/dwm440/]Forrest Wood[/url], on Flickr

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      [URL=http://s196.photobucket.com/user/FSW4picts/media/G%20gauge%20projects/Cab%20to%20tender%20hinged%20plate/IMG_0987_zpsywkqfazo.jpg.html][IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/G%20gauge%20projects/Cab%20to%20tender%20hinged%20plate/th_IMG_0987_zpsywkqfazo.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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      [url=https://flic.kr/p/S7JMbK][img]https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2882/32894084083_7ae86dd87f.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/S7JMbK]IMG_5286[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/dwm440/]Forrest Wood[/url], on Flickr

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    • March 28, 2017 4:48 PM EDT
    • First of all, I probably would not worry about diamond plate detail. Bachmann didn't on their Consolidation.  I also don't know if you are still using the stock draw bar, or have tightened it up.  If the latter, the foot plate will need to be rather short to accommodate swing in curves.

       

      Above being said; I have two Annies that are never run and have not had a footplate or working front coupler added. Not sure why I still have them except that being well used years ago they wouldn't bring enough to bother selling. I keep in the back of my head that they are good bash fodder if I ever get my unfinished project plate cleared

    • March 28, 2017 4:28 PM EDT
    • I have been slowly pecking away on adding deck plates to my small fleet of Big Haulers/Annies (Ten Wheelers) and started wondering if any other people have had the same project.  I would appreciate hearing how others have done it, to save me making mistakes that others have already found ways of solving.

        Any suggestions would be very welcome.

      One start would be; where to find diamond tread Styrene sheet, in 1:24 scale, or there-abouts.

         Fred Mills

    • March 28, 2017 7:21 PM EDT
    • Todd Haskins said:

      Wow Thank you Forrest. 

      I wonder why the hood was chopped down.  I didn't see another shorty hood in any of the photos from the first link you supplied. 

       

       

      Welcome! To increase windshield area over factory stock short hood. Long hood was not reduced in height. A lot of early road switchers got chopped short hoods during rebuildings.

      RS3 had several flavors of noses in both factory stock and "And I made a few special modifications myself" flavors.

      Here, this shows factory stock short hood, http://www.railpictures.net/photo/608362/

      Chopped nose on the GB&W, http://www.railpictures.net/photo/591052/

      One piece windshield and chopped nose, http://www.railpictures.net/photo/53728/ and http://www.railpictures.net/photo/68543/

      Extra height hood housing steam generator on LV, http://www.railpictures.net/photo/574847/ And on WM http://www.railpictures.net/photo/551971/

      MKT re-engined RS3 with Alco long hood replaced with EMD hood, http://www.railpictures.net/photo/511804/

      Some had cab windows above hoods plated over http://www.railpictures.net/photo/191423/

      Conrail one which had short hood entirely removed is about 1/2 way down this page http://conrailphotos.thecrhs.org/ConrailEquipment/Locomotives/ALCo/RS3m

       

    • March 28, 2017 6:56 PM EDT
    • looks great!!!

    • March 28, 2017 5:06 PM EDT
    • I just took this shot of the RS3 stripes.  The yellow stripes is 1/16 pin striping from great planes.  It isn't as nice and tight as paint would be but it  disappears and blends in when viewed from a few feet away.

       

      Putting the metal grab irons back on is going to be a real pain in the butt.  Otherwise this engine is really coming along. 

       

       

       

      .

    • March 28, 2017 4:43 PM EDT
    • Chuck Inlow said:

      Looking good Todd.  I'm interested to see how you mask off the louvers on the front section.  I'm building a couple of RS-1's for the Spokane International Railroad and they're paint colors are a black body with a red wide band down the center with yellow strips on both sides of the red.

       

      OOOH Chuck that is gonna be a tough job.  The Aristo louvers are so nice and detailed and luckily the paint job I'm copying is all red with the stripe stopping before and after the louvers. 

      I have painted stripes over the louvers on a USAT S4 but those are fixed in place.   With those I used blue painters tape and avoided spraying the paint down behind the tape opting instead to spray up and straight on at the louvers.  There was minimal over spray.

       

      On this RS3 I taped right over the molded in louvers on the doors and sprayed the paint the same way as on the USAT aiming the rattle can and trying not to spray behind the edge of the tape. 

       

       

      I just looked up the Spokane International and that is one sharp colour scheme. 

      I'd try just taping the louvers but you might need to do a touch up by hand.

       

       

       

    • March 28, 2017 3:17 PM EDT
    • Looking good Todd.  I'm interested to see how you mask off the louvers on the front section.  I'm building a couple of RS-1's for the Spokane International Railroad and they're paint colors are a black body with a red wide band down the center with yellow strips on both sides of the red.

    • March 27, 2017 7:14 PM EDT
    • Wow Thank you Forrest. There is some very interesting info in those links.  It is amazing how this engine 1201 and many like it made the rounds to different RR's.

       

      I guessed right that the extra roof section was actually an engine cover.  I'm glad I put on cotter pins, I mean lift points in case the cover needs to be lifted.

       

      I wonder why the hood was chopped down.  I didn't see another shorty hood in any of the photos from the first link you supplied. 

       

      Thanks again.