Well, I suppose using PEKK to print parts for our garden railroads would solve the issue of standing up to the outside elements.  But, at $650 a kilo    Interesting though.  Thanks for posting.

I thought this would be interesting to y'all who are doing this work, and who also would know what they are talking about here!

3D printed components to be tested on passenger trains

The parts were printed using Stratasys’ fused deposition modelling technology, and structurally assessed by ESG Rail. Standard thermoplastics which have traditionally been used for 3D printing can have poor mechanical properties and fire performance, making them unsuitable for rolling stock applications. However, new materials including the Stratasys Antero 800 NA PEKK-based thermoplastic are capable of complying with UK rail standards.

https://www.railwaygazette.com/news/technology/single-view/view/3d-printed-components-to-be-tested-on-passenger-trains.html

I've had a bucket list project for a long time of making my own locomotive trucks, with nose-hung traction motors. Recently, I have been looking at Slater's Plastikard gearboxes: specifically, model AGB17.

https://slatersplastikard.com/assets/pdfs/MotorGearboxFlyer.pdf

In exchanging emails with him, I found that he uses 3/16" axles. Is this a British standard? Because all the US made wheels I have use a 5.5mm axle.

I'm trying to figure out of there's a viable way to modify it to use the bigger axle. Does anyone on here have experience doing such a thing?

John Wilda said:

I'm just getting caught up on this forum and I've just read this entire thread. Very impressive work! It seems several of you have printers. Alas, I do not. But it would be cool to do stuff like this. 

 

Now I'm thinking about all the projects I could finish if I had a printer... including trucks! I need trucks for 2 boxcars (three?? maybe??), but the cost has delayed that purchase so far. 

John, PM sent

Bill Barnwell said:

Korm Kormsen said:

Bill Barnwell said:

Now if you had some 3 axle ones I could use for my mason bogie!!!!!!!!!, great work, Bill

 

there is a free design for a 3 axle bogie on thingiverse:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805475

 

it is in 1:15. but downscaling should be no problem, i think.

 

Thanks, just a little too modern for the period it's a buckeye truck used on heavy equipment and tenders like the Hudson's pulled, looking for something older looking even if it looked like the aristo commonwealth trucks it would be good, Thanks again, Bill

 

Bill, PM sent. 

I'm just getting caught up on this forum and I've just read this entire thread. Very impressive work! It seems several of you have printers. Alas, I do not. But it would be cool to do stuff like this. 

Now I'm thinking about all the projects I could finish if I had a printer... including trucks! I need trucks for 2 boxcars (three?? maybe??), but the cost has delayed that purchase so far. 

Korm Kormsen said:

Bill Barnwell said:

Now if you had some 3 axle ones I could use for my mason bogie!!!!!!!!!, great work, Bill

 

there is a free design for a 3 axle bogie on thingiverse:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805475

 

it is in 1:15. but downscaling should be no problem, i think.

 

Thanks, just a little too modern for the period it's a buckeye truck used on heavy equipment and tenders like the Hudson's pulled, looking for something older looking even if it looked like the aristo commonwealth trucks it would be good, Thanks again, Bill

Bill Barnwell said:

Now if you had some 3 axle ones I could use for my mason bogie!!!!!!!!!, great work, Bill

there is a free design for a 3 axle bogie on thingiverse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805475

it is in 1:15. but downscaling should be no problem, i think.

Dan,

you are becoming the truck guru.

Now if you had some 3 axle ones I could use for my mason bogie!!!!!!!!!, great work, Bill

Beauteous work, Dan!

Or you could lag screw through the face

http://www.microfasteners.com/self-tapping-sheet-metal-and-wood-screws-hex-head-lag-screws-brass.html

Forrest, I'm kinda leaning that way except I want the bolster to fit in a pocket on the side frame.  I need to keep the back side of the side frame flat for ease of printing.  3mm doesn't give me a whole lot to work with, so I need to add some thickness to the frame.  I may add a gusset plate to the front where the rivets for the bolster are located to give me some meat in that area.  That's not completely prototypical, but I think believable.  If push comes to shove, I will do something similar to what you proposed and just have to print the frames using supports.  Not the end of the world, just not optimal.  I guess I could always use real rivets but thread the back side so you could take them apart.  I'll have to think on that a while.

How would something like this do against the considerations of force and shear loads + ease of assembly and maintenance + parts count?

And it intends to add a sort of equalization via allowing sideframes to rock relative to bolster.

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7861/46095579264_c658764e2e_z.jpg[/img]

And it is somewhat appropriately drawn on back of envelope from Classic Toy Trains magazine soliciting me to subscribe.

Fox Pressed Steel truck Version 1:

I've still got a little work to do on the side frame and then I have to figure out how to attach the bolster.  In the real world, the rivets there in the middle is that attachment.  I need to print the side frame out to get a better feel of the proportions.  Currently, its only 3mm thick.  If I can add a couple mm's, I can create a small pocket and add a screw or two.  More later.  

Thanks Tom, I missed that. 

Martin, it's funny, but OP defaults to purple, I guess it's a brand thing. Thanks, and will do.

Hi Bob, gracias. Yeah, my quote from PCBWay was only about $1 + shipping, and they had color choices as I recall. They don't have any previsualization or diagnostic tools like OP, but the price is great (once the bugs and typos are wrung out!).

Nice looking boards.   I like OshPark for small runs. There are a number of fab houses in China that will do jobs for you too and you can pick your board color.  I’ve done traditional green, and red so far.   

Nice!  Cool you get them in purple like that.  Be sure to post up a pic when you get them populated.

Cliff

The first picture - this is the front of the board and there are two terminals at the bottom right corner labeled RMT.

The second picture - this is the back of the same board and those two terminals are labeled RNT.

Tom

I got the boards in from Osh Park yesterday, and am quite pleased with how they look.