Fred Mills. said:

Devon;

 I feel your pain...

  I just broke into my last bottle of my favorite Single Malt Whisky......but;

        I do remind myself that it is replicable, albeit...not this moment, but tomorrow or sometime within the next week....!!!!!!!

    Fred Mills 

Fred, us good ol' boys from down south never, ever, get to where we are in our last bottle, might be a whiskey blight ........ go ahead and laugh, but did you ever think there would be fanny ribbon blight 

Devon;

 I feel your pain...

  I just broke into my last bottle of my favorite Single Malt Whisky......but;

        I do remind myself that it is replicable, albeit...not this moment, but tomorrow or sometime within the next week....!!!!!!!

    Fred Mills 

Thanks Dan. I just broke into my last bottle of Resin and will need to order some more. I will give the Blu a try.

Pete Thornton said:

Dan Hilyer said:

Here is the 3D printed version of the auxiliary steam pump shown above.  Still needs some cleanup and painting.

 

Dan, there was a guy on Facebook asking where he could find a habd pump suitable for a water car front beam. I pointed him to a Trackside Details brass casting (pretty much the same as yours printed one,) but he might find it easier to chop/modify a plastic version. Can I point him to this?

Sure, Pete.

Devon, I'm using Siraya Blu.  It is most definitely not brittle (actually somewhat flexible) and the detail is great in my opinion.  All the tie rods, exposed bolts and female connections on the pump above are threaded and they show up real well with the naked eye.  The photo above does not do justice to the fine detail.  I was concerned about the small diameter tie and piston rods breaking easily, but that is not the case with the Siraya Blu.  Now, the Blu is about $10 a bottle more than their other basic resins.  I've also used Siraya Tech Build for some other prints and it is a little too brittle for my liking on thin parts.  All the NBW's on my Mik project were printed with the Build resin.  I had to thicken the washers slightly just to get them off the supports without breaking.  I would highly recommend trying the Blu resin. its worth the extra $$.

Dan Hilyer said:

Here is the 3D printed version of the auxiliary steam pump shown above.  Still needs some cleanup and painting.

 

Dan, there was a guy on Facebook asking where he could find a habd pump suitable for a water car front beam. I pointed him to a Trackside Details brass casting (pretty much the same as yours printed one,) but he might find it easier to chop/modify a plastic version. Can I point him to this?

I think we talked about this in our emails but are you using the Sarya "fast" or "simple"? I started with the "simple" but it seemed brittle. After Googling Sarya said the "fast" is less brittle and I found that to be true. But the trade off seems to be fine detail. I haven't decided which I like better. 

Beautiful Dan. Don't hesitate to send me the file

Wayne, it is a single print and its 45 x 12 x 10 mm.  The dimensions were merely best guesses from photos.  I wish I could find an actual dimensioned drawing but this will serve my purposes.

Dan 

Is it all one casting or in kit form and what does it measure in size

Here is the 3D printed version of the auxiliary steam pump shown above.  Still needs some cleanup and painting.

lower in elevation than the pump (not sure how much suction head it can produce)

At 30 ft the atmospheric pressure won't push the water up the pipe, so it will be pumping a vacuum.  1 atmosphere = 30 ft of water.

On another topic I had asked questions regarding an auxiliary steam pump for use on logging engines and a fire car I am starting to work on.  Based on the information from that thread and information gathered from others offline, I have been able to put together a 3D model that I think is a reasonable representation of the real thing.  I was also able to discern that these style pumps would indeed pull a vacuum so it needed no positive suction head, therefore it is capable of pulling water from a creek, lake or other body of water that was lower in elevation than the pump (not sure how much suction head it can produce) for the purposes of filling tenders and other tanks and fighting fires.  Let me know if you see anything that needs modification, its still a work in progress.

I cut 3/8" on a commercial 60 watt Epilog laser without problem so long as everything is clean and aligned.  I run it at 3 - 4 (on a scale of 1 - 100 with 1 being the slowest) and focus a bit below the surface layer.  I used to do it on a 50 watt Epilog machine, but they upgraded.

Is the top edge the same as the bottom edge???  No.  

Here's an example cut on Tuesday.  The "chassis" is 1/4" smoked acrylic and I cut it at "15," but it took two passes.  The coupler mount is 3/8" and was cut in one pass at "3".  The wood was cut at "15" in one pass.

On the subject of Laser cutters, I have a mutual relationship with a commercial laser cutter, so I have no desire to own one. wattage is a key issue if you are working in large scale. cutting thicker materials above 1/8" requires some power to get relative straight cuts. the laser I work with is 120 watts I believe. this is capable of cutting 1/4 material but leaves an unacceptable cut edge. I think to do this thickness effectively you need a 250 watt laser.

AL P.

Martin Sant said:

That looks really good Dan.  Exactly what I want to do.  I just got a silhouette cameo 4 and have been messing with it a bit. 

How do you get the stencil to the model?  Transfer tape like vinyl?

I did some white vinyl stuff just for testing and it's ok but it does look like a 'sticker' and doesn't go over the rivets very well.

Thanks Martin.  For those I just lifted the tape (carefully) and applied to the model.  I Picked and placed the little bits with a dental tool.  The numbers are about 1/4" tall. 

i am using a ner 100 year old paper cutter for cutting veneer and plastic sheets.

That looks really good Dan.  Exactly what I want to do.  I just got a silhouette cameo 4 and have been messing with it a bit. 

How do you get the stencil to the model?  Transfer tape like vinyl?

I did some white vinyl stuff just for testing and it's ok but it does look like a 'sticker' and doesn't go over the rivets very well.

I've used my Cricut Explore Air 2 to make masks from blue painters tape.

Bob McCown said:

Laser cutters are another tool that I've been interested in for ages, but the price point is keeping me away from one.  It would be incredibly handy for making buildings and freight cars.

So much faster too!  Took about 10 minutes of actual cutting time to do the three pieces.  I belong to the Urban Workshop and it works like a gym membership to use their equipment (three laser cutters, $30K 3D printer, vinyl printer/cutter, wood (with CAD 3D 8' router table), metal, welding, auto workshops, molding, electronics workshop, vacuum forming, etc. etc. etc.).

$200/mo and 1/2 hr drive each way.