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    • February 20, 2018 5:56 PM EST
    • Dave - I'm glad they worked out!  I have since developed diaphragms that link together magnetically.  I will detail that project here when I have time.  They work really well.

    • February 20, 2018 12:20 AM EST
    • Got them Dan, thanks!



    • February 19, 2018 10:10 PM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Yeah, I need those too! and the NW2 if it is ever figured out.




      Before Eric got his printer, He was kind enough to send me the GP9 adapter .STL file and I remixed for the GP38 and NW2.  I use #1 couplers so made those as well.  I've e-mailed them to you.

    • February 19, 2018 6:59 PM EST
    • Hi Eric, Finally got around to installing the mounts and am really happy with them. As you mentioned above you need to cut the bellows. I'm not willing to cut mine so found a good workaround by reversing the mount, trimming the little tabs on the coupler, and drilling a new hole in the coupler shank. Coupler box sits right up to the 2 tabs on your mount. The stock couplers were too tight with the bellows and after coming out of turns they were causing derailments. I would love to get them closer but need to make new bellows as I dont want to cut up the "silver" ones.



    • February 18, 2018 9:55 PM EST
    • Peter,

      I measured the weights of all 3 different length cars. See my vignette about the USAT modern tank cars.


    • February 18, 2018 8:40 PM EST
    • On a side note, what does one of these  cars weigh? I got a 29’beer can tank and have not weighed it but it is heavy! 

    • February 18, 2018 8:38 PM EST
    • On a side note, what does one of these  cars weigh? I got a 29’beer can tank and have not weighed it but it is heavy! 

    • February 14, 2018 7:06 AM EST
    • Ted: Thanks.  I did read your whole article before I did this, but I don't actually own any of these cars.  I just replicated the spacer he gave me.  I'll mention this, though.  

      The model is parametric, and I created a variable for overall height.  I can easily adjust it.  

    • February 13, 2018 11:08 PM EST
    • Thank you Eric,

      Nicely done spacer.

      The USAT 55 foot tank car, if operated on curves sufficiently greater than 10 foot diameter, may not suffer from wheel flange interference against the 906 coupler box.

      USAT 55 foot tank car with Kadees not aligned

      Just a suggestion:
      If making a replica of the factory spacer, try making it about 0.030 inch thinner so the Kadee coupler aligns with the Kadee gauge.  But check if the spacer and box can still be mounted OK.


    • February 13, 2018 6:41 PM EST
    • A club member asked me to recreate the little adapter to attach a 906 to the modern tank car.  Here it is, in case it's useful to anyone:


      I am aware that Ted D. has an article on Greg's site about modifications, etc.  This is just a copy of the stock unit.

    • February 5, 2018 4:18 PM EST
    • Files updated

      Note that this includes an equivalent of 3 mm of shim, which is appropriate for Aristo box cars, etc.  May need to extrude the bottom one way or the other for other rolling stock.

    • February 5, 2018 11:35 AM EST
    • My pleasure.  I modified them slightly to add a little clearance where are the parts overlap. I have not updated the Files yet, so you may want to wait before printing them.

    • February 5, 2018 11:26 AM EST
    • Eric, thanks for posting the STL files!

    • February 5, 2018 10:16 AM EST
    • I take the coupler and spring out and make the cut-outs with a drum sander on a dremel. Been doing that since 1990.

      clean up the burrs with a small file and reinsert the coupler and spring.

      Takes 1 minute.

    • February 4, 2018 1:39 PM EST
    • Eric Reuter said:

      Jon: How do you use the lid on the bottom when the recess for the limiting tab on the coupler is on the box itself?



      Well, for one I confused the #830 type box you are working on with the smaller #831 type box.  I actually use both together (and modified) to mount and Accucraft coupler to Bachmann Fn3 cars. My completed mod looks like this...


      And when I go back an look, I do in fact mount the larger 830 with the lid up. The smaller 831 is used with the lid down (831 was installed incorrectly in the above photo). This is what they look like on a car...


    • February 4, 2018 12:30 PM EST
    • Eric,

      You have done an excellent job on the coupler box. It looks like the box lid also includes the amount needed to space the coupler at the correct height to the railhead, so that issue is taken care of, too, along with the use of Kadee trucks.

      As to the standard Kadee box, notching and tapering its sides does help for wheel flange clearance for operation on tighter curves - example box below done when I chose to lower an Express box car during the process of mounting Kadee couplers.

      Modified Kadee 906/830 Coupler Box

      Eric, Thank you for sharing your excellent work.

      Much appreciated,

    • February 4, 2018 9:58 AM EST
    • Jon: How do you use the lid on the bottom when the recess for the limiting tab on the coupler is on the box itself?


    • February 4, 2018 9:51 AM EST
    • This is a very interesting design.  I've always used the Kaydee draft gear with the lid on the bottom. It appears you have flipped that around incorporating the shim thickness and two of the mounting screws into the lid attaching that to the car as a mount then attaching the modified box underneath.


      Thanks for the link.

    • February 4, 2018 9:44 AM EST
    • Here are a couple of shots showing the clearance.  The first one is from directly over the relevant wheel, and you can see the overlap with the screw head.