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    • August 21, 2019 3:43 PM EDT
    • well, guys already getting discouraged.  Got the foam today, wasn't impressed with the way it looked..  got it in the house and started.  All the videos I've seen with people using liquid nails, it came out nice and smooth.  Mine on the other hand came out in clumps took 2 tubes for a 4'x8'.  Grrr. Next, after putting the foam down it sticks up in places from the glue blobs.  Then of course I didn't have enough heavy objects to put down on it.  I've got both of the 4'x8's done, only got to do the 4'x4' and the foamboard will be down..  <hopefully>   if I ever have to do this again, I think I'll use 1" foamboard.

       

      Steve

    • August 21, 2019 1:20 PM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Why do you need to change the loop? is it because the track to track spacing with R7s in a crossover is too great?

       

      What is the track to track spacing where the 2 crossovers are?

       

      Greg

      Yup, the spacing is to great.  I'm not sure what the spacing is right now, I'll know once I get the foamboard installed and the layout setup again.  Using the R7 switches though creates a longer crossover and increases the distance between tracks.

       

      Steve

    • August 21, 2019 12:30 AM EDT
    • Why do you need to change the loop? is it because the track to track spacing with R7s in a crossover is too great?

       

      What is the track to track spacing where the 2 crossovers are?

       

      Greg

    • August 21, 2019 12:14 AM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:
      Steve said:
      Greg Elmassian said:

      It appears you are using R1 (4 foot diameter) switches except for the outer mainline.

       

      I think you can use R3 switches for the 2 crossovers between the outer and inner mains, that would allow much larger locos to navigate into the outer loop.

       

      Glue track down, no nails, use a few books or weights to hold it down while gluing.

       

      Greg

       

      Hi,

      Using R3 would mean inner loop would have to be r1 curves if it would even fit..  I'll have to try it out and see.  I did originally try r3 but the difference between tracks was to big..

       

      Steve

       

      Steve, I am confused.... at the time I first mentioned this, you indicated R3's would not work...

      Now you say they are R3....

      Did you change them? Is there a new picture?

       

      Greg

       

      Hi Greg,

       

      I'm using R1 for switches, but most of the curved track I have are R3 (both main lines).  I tried changing the 2 crossovers to R7 switches, if I do that, I must change the inner loop to R1 on the curves, which I really don't want to do.  Hope this clears things up a little.

    • August 20, 2019 8:39 PM EDT
    • Steve said:
      Greg Elmassian said:

      It appears you are using R1 (4 foot diameter) switches except for the outer mainline.

       

      I think you can use R3 switches for the 2 crossovers between the outer and inner mains, that would allow much larger locos to navigate into the outer loop.

       

      Glue track down, no nails, use a few books or weights to hold it down while gluing.

       

      Greg

       

      Hi,

      Using R3 would mean inner loop would have to be r1 curves if it would even fit..  I'll have to try it out and see.  I did originally try r3 but the difference between tracks was to big..

       

      Steve

       

      Steve, I am confused.... at the time I first mentioned this, you indicated R3's would not work...

      Now you say they are R3....

      Did you change them? Is there a new picture?

       

      Greg

    • August 20, 2019 7:30 PM EDT
    • I don’t have much knowledge either, but I’m making it work!

      Steve said:
      Bill Sakalaucks said:

      Welcome to the micro-Railroad club! I’ve got a small outdoor one I put down this summer and the folks here have been of great help to me. 

      Thanks.  I'd really like to hit the outdoors but my knowledge isn't all that great. Lol

       

       

    • August 20, 2019 6:03 PM EDT
    • Ted Doskaris said:

      Hi Steve, and welcome.

      What type and how big locos and cars are you planning to run on your layout?

      Given the relatively tight curves and turnouts previously described, it looks like you will be limited to smaller items with short lengths and wheel base like, for example, a narrow gauge logging railroad.

      -Ted

      Right now, the two main lines use Piko's R3 curves, better then R1..  the loco's I have are Piko's 0-6-0T, 2-6-0, and 0-6-0.  So they are small.   I do have 2 USAT GP9s ordered though.

    • August 20, 2019 5:59 PM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      typical household acrylic latex should not attack the foam.

       

      On the crossovers, you have plenty of room to use longer switches, since you have some straight track adjacent.

       

      The track to track spacing using the Piko R7 switches for your crossovers may work...  you might have to trim them a bit. I have crossovers between my 2 mains with Aristo #6 and the track to track spacing is about 9.5"

       

       

       

      I'll break anyrail out tonight and see what I can come up with, if I do an update to it, I'll post it here.

    • August 20, 2019 12:02 PM EDT
    • Hi Steve, and welcome.

      What type and how big locos and cars are you planning to run on your layout?

      Given the relatively tight curves and turnouts previously described, it looks like you will be limited to smaller items with short lengths and wheel base like, for example, a narrow gauge logging railroad.

      -Ted

    • August 20, 2019 11:38 AM EDT
    • typical household acrylic latex should not attack the foam.

       

      On the crossovers, you have plenty of room to use longer switches, since you have some straight track adjacent.

       

      The track to track spacing using the Piko R7 switches for your crossovers may work...  you might have to trim them a bit. I have crossovers between my 2 mains with Aristo #6 and the track to track spacing is about 9.5"

       

       

       

    • August 20, 2019 10:33 AM EDT
    • Anyone have suggestion on type of paint to paint the foam board?

    • August 20, 2019 10:32 AM EDT
    • Sean McGillicuddy said:

      Start off small .. do the outer loop and get a train running first....You might rethink your track plan once you see how it looks not on paper.. 

      Welcome aboard the crazy train....

      As much as I spent on track.  Lol  . I Better not change my mind.  I will admit though i think I have too much track for the space I have.  But we'll see where I'm at this Saturday.

    • August 20, 2019 10:30 AM EDT
    • Bill Sakalaucks said:

      Welcome to the micro-Railroad club! I’ve got a small outdoor one I put down this summer and the folks here have been of great help to me. 

      Thanks.  I'd really like to hit the outdoors but my knowledge isn't all that great. Lol

    • August 20, 2019 9:15 AM EDT
    • Start off small .. do the outer loop and get a train running first....You might rethink your track plan once you see how it looks not on paper.. 

      Welcome aboard the crazy train....

    • August 20, 2019 7:26 AM EDT
    • Welcome to the micro-Railroad club! I’ve got a small outdoor one I put down this summer and the folks here have been of great help to me. 

    • August 20, 2019 6:28 AM EDT
    • The crushed stone I use is 1/4 inch down to dust. Indoors you won't need the dust component of the stone, so you could use a cleaner variety of crushed stone.

    • August 20, 2019 2:43 AM EDT
    • just the switches for the 2 crossovers between the inner and outer loop... you might have to use a more normal switch like a #6... not the switches that match a curve exactly.

       

      Greg

    • August 20, 2019 1:06 AM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      It appears you are using R1 (4 foot diameter) switches except for the outer mainline.

       

      I think you can use R3 switches for the 2 crossovers between the outer and inner mains, that would allow much larger locos to navigate into the outer loop.

       

      Glue track down, no nails, use a few books or weights to hold it down while gluing.

       

      Greg

       

      Hi,

      Using R3 would mean inner loop would have to be r1 curves if it would even fit..  I'll have to try it out and see.  I did originally try r3 but the difference between tracks was to big..

       

      Steve

       

    • August 20, 2019 12:20 AM EDT
    • It appears you are using R1 (4 foot diameter) switches except for the outer mainline.

       

      I think you can use R3 switches for the 2 crossovers between the outer and inner mains, that would allow much larger locos to navigate into the outer loop.

       

      Glue track down, no nails, use a few books or weights to hold it down while gluing.

       

      Greg

       

       

    • August 19, 2019 11:55 PM EDT
    • Vic Smith said:

      Loctite Powergrab is my go to adhesive if you can find any railclamps it's best if you clamp down the switches and do not glue or screw the switches down. If you ever have to remove or replace on your can simply unscrew the clamps and lift it out. Same for ballast, Don't adhere it down on switches. Are you planning on DCC or rc/battery or simple DC track power?

      Also is this a stand alone layout in a room or will you be able to walk around the sides, asking about reach issues I see.

       

      Hi Vic.  I'll have to get some Piko rail lamps then, never thought about having problems since the switch mechanism is actually bought separately and screwed on to the switch.  The layout will be DCC, using Piko's DCC system, and you guessed right, there will be a reach issue.  The layout takes up basically the whole room, with no access to 3 of the sides or at least good access.

      Thanks again..

      Steve