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    • January 11, 2019 7:20 AM EST
    • Jon,

      If you move it up to the top of the plywood on the left of the picture, won't that take care of the cut needed?  Or at least most of it.

    • January 11, 2019 7:10 AM EST
    • Jon Radder said:

      Ended up working outdoors today until after dark, so no project work tonight.  Taking it to work to spray paint the inside black, then it gets buttoned up and installed.

      About this corner thing; If you are saying to reduce the area of the box by sliding the angled piece left, then the answer is no. Clearance is as tight as I am willing to go as shown. Changing which way the miter joints are done alone will not change anything.

      Jon

      Just take a minute and reread this post.

      Jon  , last ditch effort  to help you see what I think will work for you.

      Place a new top piece , on top of the piece standing upright (far left against the wall), and place the other end (with an angle cut ) on top of the angle cut piece (new piece just added) touching the stair stringer

       Now remove the old piece ( it has some pencil marking) original roof, that is above the brake wheel..

      This is driving me crazy as well ...

    • January 10, 2019 10:27 PM EST
    • " Rooster " said:
      Andy Clarke said:
      Jon Radder said:

      You guys are insane. 

       

      Jon, please don't tell me that you are just now realizing this.....     

       

      Of course, we are all insane...  Wouldn't be fun any other way....    

      Dad,

      Are you saying that using LSC as a calming place with life coaches is not a good idea?

       

      Son, you know that every thing is a good idea, except for what hurts anyone....             

    • January 10, 2019 10:05 PM EST
    • Ended up working outdoors today until after dark, so no project work tonight.  Taking it to work to spray paint the inside black, then it gets buttoned up and installed.

       

      About this corner thing; If you are saying to reduce the area of the box by sliding the angled piece left, then the answer is no. Clearance is as tight as I am willing to go as shown. Changing which way the miter joints are done alone will not change anything.

       

    • January 10, 2019 8:27 PM EST
    • Andy Clarke said:
      Jon Radder said:

      You guys are insane. 

       

      Jon, please don't tell me that you are just now realizing this.....     

       

      Of course, we are all insane...  Wouldn't be fun any other way....    

      Dad,

      Are you saying that using LSC as a calming place with life coaches is not a good idea?

       

    • January 10, 2019 9:47 AM EST
    • Jon Radder said:

      You guys are insane. 

       

      Jon, please don't tell me that you are just now realizing this.....     

       

      Of course, we are all insane...  Wouldn't be fun any other way....    

    • January 10, 2019 7:31 AM EST
    • Jon Radder said:

      You guys are insane.  If the vertical walls are fixed, and the angle is fixed - which both are: Changing where the joints for the angled piece are makes zero difference.

      Not so .. if you did as we suggested you gain the thickness of that roof piece 1/4" ...

      Just look @ the pic ..... That piece above the brake wheel ...

       

    • January 10, 2019 7:27 AM EST
    • You guys are insane.  If the vertical walls are fixed, and the angle is fixed - which both are: Changing where the joints for the angled piece are makes zero difference. Just the extend the lines on the angled piece in Hollywood's drawing and you get what I built. Nothing moves.

       

      Besides - those pieces are glued and brad nailed together - not changing.

       

       

      I think you are just trying to distract me so I don't have time to plan my Challenge build.

    • January 10, 2019 6:35 AM EST
    • Yes David good catch ..

      Jon remove your original roof ..and cut a new one ( it will be wider ) to sit on the upright piece of plywood on the left .. and rest it on that new piece you just cut !

    • January 10, 2019 6:03 AM EST
    • Jon, not trying to belabor the idea but:

       

      note the difference between the two builds. this will let you raise the box( lessen your grade and keep it wide enough for your car and retriever

       

       

       

       

    • January 9, 2019 11:31 PM EST
    • With room to spare 

    • January 9, 2019 11:21 PM EST
    • The AngleFinder got me close, but it took 5 or 6 test cuts to get near perfect. Not sure I gained a lot, but it was a good exercise.  The drop is now reduced to 1.5". I still measure 4% on my test track, but it is 1.5" above the pipe and does not need to be. I think I can drop the left end at least an inch and I could extend it as well to further reduce the grade.  I just need to stain or paint the inside black and then I can build permanent legs and close it it. Test fit...

       

    • January 8, 2019 8:43 AM EST
    • Jon Radder said:
      David Marconi,FOGCH said:

      Jon, With your attention to situations and going into a blind hole, maybe a sensor circuit that will turn on a viewable or audible signal just before you hit the wall, or couple to a car in the hole, may prove to be a helpful addition.

      I already have two similar situations (dead-end tunnels).  My solution is to make a mark on the ties at the depth of the blind hole. I then stop before entering and note where in the train that mark falls. I then advance carefully up to where that mark was noted.  The 'stair box' will be fully enclosed, so no problem banging a coupler against the end wall, so long as it's not at speed. If a car does derail inside it can't fall out of the box and it's not too deep to reach into.  The more problematic area will be where the current BOX tunnel is That will also be enclosed but it will have a switch inside and is deeper than I can reach. My disaster recovery plan is to have the cover easily removable after emptying out the storage above the cover. With it open I should be able to reach everything.

       

      Jon you could just glue some foam, just above your couplers , so the sill or box hits the foam .

      Image result for kadee couplers on a g gauge box car with the  guage

       

       

    • January 8, 2019 8:26 AM EST
    • Jon Radder said:
      David Marconi,FOGCH said:

      Jon, With your attention to situations and going into a blind hole, maybe a sensor circuit that will turn on a viewable or audible signal just before you hit the wall, or couple to a car in the hole, may prove to be a helpful addition.

      I already have two similar situations (dead-end tunnels).  My solution is to make a mark on the ties at the depth of the blind hole. I then stop before entering and note where in the train that mark falls. I then advance carefully up to where that mark was noted.  The 'stair box' will be fully enclosed, so no problem banging a coupler against the end wall, so long as it's not at speed. If a car does derail inside it can't fall out of the box and it's not too deep to reach into.  The more problematic area will be where the current BOX tunnel is That will also be enclosed but it will have a switch inside and is deeper than I can reach. My disaster recovery plan is to have the cover easily removable after emptying out the storage above the cover. With it open I should be able to reach everything.

      I was just thinking 'Ken might join you one day to run trains' and I've seen pics with the two of you as a team moving bricks with a train

    • January 7, 2019 10:15 PM EST
    • Today at work I needed to cut up some 1/2" black PVC. I ended up with some thin strips that were headed for the dumpster, so I built a short section of ladder roadbed with it. I normally use 1.5" x .75" with wood connector/spacer blocks.   This is 1.5" x .5" using the same material as connectors.  It has much better longitudinal stability than I expected. It should be no problem supported on 16" centers.  Nice that it's black and won't glare out through ballast. I''ve painted the white stuff, but it doesn't last. Here is a few shots of it and a test with track and a short train.

       

       

       

      I've not done anything other than flat deck inside. Roadbed will be an interesting change.

    • January 7, 2019 10:05 PM EST
    • @Sean -  I've had that thought as well. I'd have to pull it out. Too difficult to paint wheher it sits; and if you don't paint bith sides the white would still show.  Probably an if I get a Round Tuit project.

       

      @ Ken - But it weighs less :D :D :D

    • January 7, 2019 10:01 PM EST
    • David Marconi,FOGCH said:

      Jon, With your attention to situations and going into a blind hole, maybe a sensor circuit that will turn on a viewable or audible signal just before you hit the wall, or couple to a car in the hole, may prove to be a helpful addition.

      I already have two similar situations (dead-end tunnels).  My solution is to make a mark on the ties at the depth of the blind hole. I then stop before entering and note where in the train that mark falls. I then advance carefully up to where that mark was noted.  The 'stair box' will be fully enclosed, so no problem banging a coupler against the end wall, so long as it's not at speed. If a car does derail inside it can't fall out of the box and it's not too deep to reach into.  The more problematic area will be where the current BOX tunnel is That will also be enclosed but it will have a switch inside and is deeper than I can reach. My disaster recovery plan is to have the cover easily removable after emptying out the storage above the cover. With it open I should be able to reach everything.

    • January 7, 2019 1:06 PM EST
    • Coming along nicely, Jon..   The incline doesn't look so bad as it's now visual, but reading it, it seemed real steep...                

    • January 7, 2019 8:01 AM EST
    • Jon Radder said:

       

       

       I got a kick out of this. The TX is bigger than the engine.................

       

    • January 7, 2019 7:25 AM EST
    • Paint the window frame black ?