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    • August 30, 2019 10:05 AM EDT
    • That is some determined engineering, how much voltage is each cell?

    • August 29, 2019 8:26 PM EDT
    • I made this custom split pack for my Shay.  3 cells and the protection board in the boiler and one remote cell in the air tank...

    • August 29, 2019 5:17 PM EDT
    • Bill,


      Generally user interaction with actual assembling, I.e., soldering Lithium Ion cells is NOT recommended. While cells with "tabs" can be soldered as a rule they are generally spot welded by battery pack assembler/packagers (FWIW cell manufacturers do NOT off battery packs, just loose individual cells).


      Can you share the dimensions of the area your confined to? What voltage is desired?


      If you don't have any luck finding what you need let us know, I can help with one off welded battery packs.







    • August 29, 2019 3:27 PM EDT
    • may have what you want, you can search by length, width and height (and a bunch of other parameters too like chemistry, mah, cells, etc).  I've used their page to find batteries that will fit into smaller spaces.

    • August 29, 2019 2:21 PM EDT
    • Bill Barnwell said:

      Any one built their own lithium battery power packs, I/m running out of room in may tender section of my Mason Bogie and really only have the boiler left and was considering building one to fit in that area, Bill


      I make my own.  18650 cells (typical size) are readily available on, often intended for e-cigs, but I have been buying 4 at a time (14.4V) for around $10. While 18650 is most common, there are lots of other sizes, mostly shorter/smaller, and some have tabs for soldering.
      The same site has 1,2 or 4 cell battery holders, plus they have protection boards so you don't over- or under-charge the batteries.


      For a specific location like yours, I'd look for the tabbed ones so you can make up an odd-sized pack.  The protection board doesn't have to be near the batteries - just make sure it is between the batteries and the other electrics.

    • August 29, 2019 1:27 PM EDT
    • Like John said. Battery space has skinny 14.8 v cylindrical shaped packs that might fit in your boiler. 



    • August 29, 2019 12:00 PM EDT
    • Any one built their own lithium battery power packs, I/m running out of room in may tender section of my Mason Bogie and really only have the boiler left and was considering building one to fit in that area, Bill

    • August 24, 2019 8:25 PM EDT
    • Thomas White said:

      Greg and Rooster - I have some other sound system projects taking priority right now, so it will be awhile before I'll be able to test a hall sensor with the Phoenix sound board and Massoth decoder.  But once I do it, I'll certainly post the results, successful or unsuccessful, for everyone.

      Thanks for both your inputs.


      Tom ,

       Good luck.....I personally don't run sound on my ghetto roundy round RR but I do understand Hall triggers with my profession.

      It's all good !


    • August 24, 2019 1:34 PM EDT
    • Matt - Thanks for your input.  It appears to match closely the guidance I received from Jim at Phoenix Sound.  I haven't tested the Massoth Hall Sensor wiring yet on a Phoenix PB17 but what I was concerned about was the 6.5 volts specs for the Hall Sensor.  Didn't know whether the Phoenix' 5 volts would be sufficient but you're finding that it is.


    • August 23, 2019 6:51 PM EDT
    • I don't know if this is helpful since the last post was two months ago.

      But I've installed a Hall effect to a PB11.v6 version of the sound boards.
      Albeit into a Ride-on 7.25inch scale locomotive, however the principal should be roughly the same.

      This method also worked for a PB17 version, that I bought as a spare.
      (I do not know if this will work for the current P8 and P14 sound boards.)

      Ok, for anyone else who needs some help with Phoenix sounds to and 3 wire Hall effect switches.
      Here is what you need to do.

      1. On the Hall switch find outputs of each 3 wires is assigned to.
      They should be, a Positive, a Negative, and the Signal.

      Just like the instructions for a standard reed switch version.

      2. the Signal wire needs to go into the chuff sensor terminal.

      and the Negative wire goes into the suggested negative terminal.

      3. Now, the positive wire, need to connect to the +5V.
      On the PH17 this is also the volume up terminal, so you need to share it.
      (I think the P8 has a separate terminal for +5V)

      Give a test and see if it all works.
      If it does, YAY! :-D
      If not, then my instructions are a dud, sorry! :-(

      On my Ride on, the trigger magnet spins much to fast for the programming to keep track of the pulses.

      If you have access to the PC programming.

      - Under Feature Set.
      - Terminal Polarity.

      Find the one assigned for Chuff Sensor.

      And change the Active Low, to Active High
      It's usually just a tick option.

    • August 23, 2019 9:07 PM EDT
    • LGB is clever at hiding volume switches.  The Uintah Mallet had one hidden under one of the domes, which pulled off for access to the control.  The LG&B yellow Forney with factory sound had one turned with a small screw driver and accessed by pulling off the water fill hatch.  I had each of these engines, so I'm familiar with them.  Neither of these removable "covers" appeared to be removable at first glance, so just keep looking and try to pull off everything you can.  If it doesn't come off easily though, don't pull hard enough to break anything.

    • August 23, 2019 6:09 PM EDT
    • I've looked and (with difficulty) felt around in side the area as the User guide suggests.
      But it's not there. :-(

      just those 2 switches as Dan mentioned.

      I have tried to contact Marklin/LGB, but I'm not sure how long it takes their email service.

    • August 23, 2019 7:17 AM EDT
    • User guide states it is next to the mode of operation switches, usually in the front cab.  These are the 2 switches, upper is for track vs pantograph power, bottom is for power on or off.


    • August 22, 2019 11:07 PM EDT
    • Hello everyone,

      I've recently purchased this LGB locomotive.
      And I'm struggling to understand the manual provided.

      It said there is a volume control switch somewhere in the locomotive.
      But I can't seem to find one in the location it claims to be.

      I've looked all over the locomotive externally and can't find anything that would manual control the volume.

      If anyone has one, could you yell me where to find and access it?


    • August 18, 2019 4:44 PM EDT
    • I had similar experiences with the light weight and rocking. I took a slightly different method to fix, but I have indeed shimmed the ends of the axles to eliminate the severe side to side play.



    • August 18, 2019 3:21 PM EDT
    • American Main Line (AML) 1/29 "G" scale Stock Cars!

      I've had these cars for a long time, but only recently tried to operate them on my outdoor layout.

      As it comes from the factory, if you push at the top side of the AML stock car and let go, it easily leans over and rocks, reminiscent of a shaking bobble head doll you might see on the rear package shelf in a car!

      The AML stock car is so loosely sprung that it can lean over or rock during operation on a train.  This is most noticeable when the car is positioned near the front of a long train, particularly when using AML or Kadee body mount coupler boxes.  


      The leaning or rocking propensity is associated with how the trucks are attached to the chassis with AML's unique fastener with coil spring - not the trucks since they don't use springs in the sideframes.  Compounding this, the car is a bit too light in weight.

      As to couplers, AML does supply with the car a bag of their unique body mount boxes that resemble Kadee 830/906 types if the user chooses to install them in place of truck mounts.

      As an experiment I adapted the AML boxes to accept a stand alone Kadee 900 straight shank centerset couplers for body mounting.

      For more info., see vignette I finally got around to do, title, "AML Stock Car Experiences & Body Mounting Kadee Centerset Couplers"



    • August 17, 2019 6:55 AM EDT
    • An Aristo driver that isn't square to the axle. Now there is something you don't see very often.


      Sniff, sniff sniif. You smell that? That is sarcasm.