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    • April 18, 2020 12:16 PM EDT
    • Yup... I just realized NWSL sent me the wrong gears.

      I ordered 2223-6 which it clearly shows on my sales receipt.  But they sent me 2236-6 which are way to big.  I've sent NWSL an email asking them to send the correct gears.


    • April 18, 2020 11:33 AM EDT
    • I also have the NWSL gears that I purchased for the same project on my other 3 Bachmann 2-6-0 that also have the split gear.  However, for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the gears on the axel.  I can only get them on this far.  What's the trick?

      Timmy, that's not the right gear for that axle. Maybe NWSL sent you the wrong one? Measure the axle diameter over the smooth bit next to the ridges and email them. Maybe even send them the original split gear?

      You have a "shouldered" axle which widens where the valve gear slides on. I am assuming that the gear is clearly not going to slide any further past the shoulder?


      The NWSL gear is delrin, a type of hard plastic. The "trick" is going to be drilling it out to the right size. For this you really need a vertical drill press. (I bought one for drilling maple cabinet drawer fronts at Home Depot for $90. Many years ago - your mileage may vary.) Or find a friend with a machine shop - a lathe is the proper tool for this job.

      If you have a micrometer it will be easy to measure the shaft diameter, but it is probably metric and something like 4mm. Your local Ace hardware will sell you a Xmm drill, or you can buy one online. (If you don't have a micrometer, now would be a good time to buy one!)


      In any case, the trick is to drill a test piece - not the actual gear. Find a drill bit that you think will work and use it to drill a hole in something like a hardwood strip or piece of plastic. Then test that the piece is a tight fit on the axle all the way up to the ridges. Keep trying until it is a close fit. Don't use an oversize drill thinking the ridges will hold it - if you can't find something exact, then drill it slightly small and see trick 2.

      The gear will have to be held very securely - I use soft wood on either side in a vise or clamp and let the wood grip the gear teeth. You will have to drill very slowly and carefully - don't press down too hard. It's quite difficult to drill out a hole in plastic that is almost the right size in the first place, so be careful and make sure the gear is centered under the drill. (To help center it, you can load a smaller drill that fits the existing hole and, with the drill off, press it into the gear while you tighten the clamp to hold it in place.).

      If you have drilled out your gear and it is still a bit too tight, then put a round file smaller than the hole in the drill (trick 2) and use it to carefully file (ream) the hole slightly larger. [A proper size drill is a better option! A reamer is the proper tool for opening a hole slightly, but I don't have one and I doubt you could find one.]

      What you are aiming for is a good fit on the smooth shaft and for the gear not to wobble too much when you spin the axle in your fingers. Then you can gently tap the axle into the gear - Michael's suggestion of small sockets to support the gear while you tap is a good one. I use the vise and put the axle loosely in the jaws so I can tap it through the gear.

    • April 18, 2020 10:06 AM EDT
    • A couple ideas come to mind and have worked for me over the years for pushing gears and such on to shafts. All utilize small appropriately sized sockets from a ratchet set. I like method TWO the best, but all work with a little common sense and care. I've use an arbor press to change bearings/gears/spacers and similar ilk for years. Sometimes sockets work other times plate(s) with hole in the middle supported with spacer blocks, simply depends on what you have in hand.


      Place the gear on-top of the right diameter socket, insert the axle and push/tap the axle threw the gear.


      1)  Place a shallow or deep socket (depends on the need) on the work bench,  with a small hammer tap the shaft down onto serrated shaft area.


      2) Small Arbor press from Harbor Freight Tools or other sources. Again using a socket(s).


      3)  Benchtop vice, again utilizing small sockets.






    • April 18, 2020 9:26 AM EDT
    • Jason V. said:

      If the NWSL gear is metal. You can Heat it to expand and then let it cool to shrink. 



      It's not metal.

    • April 17, 2020 8:42 PM EDT
    • If the NWSL gear is metal. You can Heat it to expand and then let it cool to shrink. 



    • April 17, 2020 6:32 PM EDT
    • Ok... I figured it out!  My mistake.  All is working and I replaced the broken gear myself with the Bachmann replacement gear and axel.  Pretty proud of myself 


      With that said, I also have the NWSL gears that I purchased for the same project on my other 3 Bachmann 2-6-0 that also have the split gear.  However, for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the gears on the axel.  I can only get them on this far.  What's the trick?


    • April 17, 2020 3:41 PM EDT
    • Jason V. said:

      I know this might sound dumb but check that your stuff is plugged in or turn to on.. it happens.

      Yup... power is plugged in and turned on.

    • April 17, 2020 4:35 AM EDT
    • When you placed the loco on the track was the tender connected to the loco ? If so then the problem might be that you have replaced the driving axles/wheels wrong side round (reinstalled upside down, so to speak). so the pick ups in the loco and tender are mismatched causing a short circuit. Very easily done when doing repair work like this with this loco as you will have had the axles completely out. Don't ask me how I know. The tender wheels pick up current from the track to feed to the motor as do the driving wheels. You might get a burning smell if you try to increase the power or do not shut off.


      If not the above it will just be a matter of the task of systematically checking through from the motor onwards to make sure all the wires are connected and everything is the right way around. Take a look too at the little "circuit board" that should be mounted on the wired end of the motor, if a previous owner has not removed it. This is the electrical "noise" suppressor. You will see 2 small black cylinders on there, they are capacitors. These have a habit of burning out. If they are distorted/discoloured in any way they have probably blown and that then that is a probable cause. I was advised on a forum a long time ago to get rid of them and replace when I suffered a "dead loco" issue.

      Although this wiring schematic is for the 4-4-0 "American" it should be ok for your 2-6-0. This is a very closely related product to the one you have. The "2-6-0 Mogul" wiring schematic listed on the Bachmann site is for the small "mining mogul" a very different product to yours. I hope this aids you 

    • April 17, 2020 1:23 AM EDT
    • I know this might sound dumb but check that your stuff is plugged in or turn to on.. it happens.

    • April 16, 2020 8:01 PM EDT
    • Not knowing how long this stay at home social distancing thing is going to last.  I have a feeling it will be fore a while longer.  So, I searched Youtube and actually found a video that goes through how to change the drive gear.  Thought I would give it a try today.  I was able to follow the video and got to the drive gear.  Yup, it was split in half.

      As I purchased 3 of the Bachmann replacement gears and also 3 from NWSL I tried to get the NWSL gear on to the axle but for the life of me can't figure out how to get it on.  The hole in the gear is much smaller than the axle

      So, I used one of the replacement gear plus axle I got from Bachmann.  

      I was able to replace the gear and re-assemble the loco. However, I place it on the track, gave it some juice and nothing....  Don't know what I might have done.  Perhaps I dislodged a wire or something.  Really disappointed as I was pretty excited that I successfully got the broken gear out and replaced with the new one.


    • April 18, 2020 10:08 AM EDT
    • I've used Flitz in the past and it works wellflitz

    • April 17, 2020 5:58 PM EDT
    • Peter, I used Never Dull in the past. But it left my hands all greasy, and it took more rubbing then I thought should be necessary. Ketchup will do most of the work for me (I am lazy), if I let it sit for 30 minutes or so.


      John, I have Brasso, and it too requires too much effort on my part. You see, since I had Carpel Tunnel Syndrome, my hands cramp pretty quickly when I am polishing by hand. I put up with the cramps at work, I am getting paid to do the job, but at home I look for easier ways.


      Clear shoe paste wax? Now that is a good idea, I will have to "borrow" that one.

    • April 17, 2020 2:07 PM EDT
    • After a landlord saw my freshly polished copper and brass spittoon, he offered a suggestion. Seems he owned a set of Knights Armour, use clear shoe paste wax to prevent tarnishing. I used Brasso to clean it.

    • April 17, 2020 1:30 PM EDT
    • Back in my Coast Guard days, we used a product call "Never Dull".  Easy to use and worked great. 

    • April 17, 2020 10:11 AM EDT
    • The question comes up from time to time on how to clean tarnished brass. While rebuilding my Tyco 10 wheelers, I need to clean up the brass domes on these things, so I thought I would show you how I have been cleaning the tarnish off of those brass domes.



      The United States Navy used to polish the brass fittings, railings and such on their ships with an effective polish, so I got some some and put a thin layer of it on the brass dome



      After letting it sit for half an hour, I rubbed the stuff off with a napkin.



      I know, napkins are for drawing plans on, so forgive me for using one to polish up brass.


      This super secret brass cleaner? Its common household Ketchup (catsup).


      It seams the vinegar and salt in the Ketchup will remove tarnish from brass. And the best part, for me, is that its cheep. In fact, it is even free at most fast food restaurants. I like free.

    • April 16, 2020 7:52 PM EDT
    • Curmudgeon mcneely said:

      Didn't you get a wall wart last time you were here? I have one or two left.

      Try charging it. The battery won't come up with slow speeds...not enough input voltage. Gotta have the switch "off" to charge, if I recall. And leave it off when you secure from running trains.

      Those Sierra batteries were garbage when new. They bought the cheapest.

      I never had to deal with them, as I ordered them without batteries.

      Dealers bought 100 units, set on the shelf, by the time they sold, over six months later, the batteries were toast already.

      The built in charger is designed for Lead Acid. NOT NiMH or NiCad.

      Different charge protocol.


      I did and it works great.  My last reply was before I came to see you.



    • April 13, 2020 3:55 PM EDT
    • Yea I read the bit on Greg's web site, look forward to the pixs, Bill

    • April 13, 2020 12:55 PM EDT
    • Ok bill, Sorry for the delay. I took a picture of both screws. Do you have fb or email you could message me and I can get picture to you. The front driver is a shouldered screw with the octagon head. I believe it is 1/4 in. socket if you used that to remove it. the rear driver is a flat counter sink screw. What ever you do.. BE CAREFUL when tightening both of them down. The shaft that they screw into can be brittle and will break. I had to repair one and its not fun...... 

    • April 11, 2020 11:01 AM EDT
    • Thanks Travis, what I am finding in bits and pieces is that the rear one is a # 4 screw and there must be some kind of sleeve that replaces the shoulder on the 4-40 screw, but not sure, let me know when you do, Bill

    • April 11, 2020 4:01 AM EDT
    • I will check later on mine. I have had them apart several times. If I remember right they are both the same...