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    • May 3, 2020 9:31 PM EDT
    • Long story short, I bought a Gp40 online that was supposed to have 10 hours run time on it.......max(his words). After I got it, that was a lie.

      Fast forward to now.........

      So, i have all the gears replaced, worm gear included, and 4 wheels. Now, I am replacing the motors. I have new motors, but how the heck do you get the pinion gears off the old motor shaft? I really thought there was a set screw holding them on, but there isn't. I guess they are pressed on? 

       

       

    • April 29, 2020 12:19 PM EDT
    • not knowing about the possibility of simply replacing broken gears,

      Tac, one thread that did pop up when I did the general search, was this one in GR from 2006:
      http://cs.trains.com/grw/f/91/t/78419.aspx

       

      The comments from Curmudgeon (TOC) are very relevant. Some trucks are not salvageable.

       

       

    • April 29, 2020 12:14 PM EDT
    • I guess that will teach me to use the search function, eh?

      I don't think the search function would help. It took me 2 attempts and about 1/2 hour to find your "shay" thread - which I know I read a few days ago. The search function on LSC (or GSC, or MLS) are all useless.


      My usual trick didn't work - a site-specific google search, in this case for "site:largescalecentral.com shay tac". 


      My other trick is to ask google a long specific question, like "bachmann large scale shay truck gear replacement". That produced Dan's thread.

       

    • April 29, 2020 9:14 AM EDT
    • Well. folks, not knowing about the possibility of simply replacing broken gears, I ordered a set of replacement trucks instead from P&S Models in Yorkshire on Monday.

       

      They arrived at midday today.

       

      I guess that will teach me to use the search function, eh?

    • April 28, 2020 11:28 PM EDT
    • Thank you for your post and I look forward to the second part. I am brand new to the club and have 3 Shays Bachmann (Two & Three + Climax) which I love. I guess I should start to look for new trucks and gears to have on hand. Does anyone carry them? I would go in with someone on gears if need for a batch....

       

      Tony

    • April 25, 2020 5:08 PM EDT
    • Forrest Scott Wood said:
      GAP said:

      The other option I have is to use artist acrylics dissolved in lacquer thinner ans use my airbrush, I did this on a loco and the paint job is well over 5 years old and showing no sign of deterioration.

      That's a thing I've not thought of trying. But I can say that those acrylics are known to be a pretty durable polymer.

      Article talks about far more than this aspect, but it may be of special use for someone here,

      Do artists still work in freezing garrets? If so, oils will work better. The temperature at which the paint is applied is more of a concern with acrylics than with oils. Acrylic house paints should not be used when the temperature is below about 5 oC (about 40 oF) or when the temperature is expected to fall below this level for 4 to 8 hours after the paint was applied. The reason is that strong, coherent films cannot form at low temperatures, and even if the film later becomes warm, it will never recover. Acrylic artist paints are similar. To be on the safe side, they should be used only at temperatures above 10 oC (about 50 oF), and the painting should be kept above this temperature for several days after it has dried. [8] Acrylics painted and dried under cold conditions may look OK, but the films will be less durable and more vulnerable to cracking. Oils, on the other hand can be used at freezing temperatures or below.

      https://www.justpaint.org/aspects-of-longevity-of-oil-and-acrylic-artist-paints/

       

      Low temperature is not an issue here, mid winter temps coldest daytime is usually around 22C on average and coldest overnight would be around 10C. 

       

       

    • April 25, 2020 6:17 AM EDT
    • GAP said:

      The other option I have is to use artist acrylics dissolved in lacquer thinner ans use my airbrush, I did this on a loco and the paint job is well over 5 years old and showing no sign of deterioration.

      That's a thing I've not thought of trying. But I can say that those acrylics are known to be a pretty durable polymer.

      Article talks about far more than this aspect, but it may be of special use for someone here,

      Do artists still work in freezing garrets? If so, oils will work better. The temperature at which the paint is applied is more of a concern with acrylics than with oils. Acrylic house paints should not be used when the temperature is below about 5 oC (about 40 oF) or when the temperature is expected to fall below this level for 4 to 8 hours after the paint was applied. The reason is that strong, coherent films cannot form at low temperatures, and even if the film later becomes warm, it will never recover. Acrylic artist paints are similar. To be on the safe side, they should be used only at temperatures above 10 oC (about 50 oF), and the painting should be kept above this temperature for several days after it has dried. [8] Acrylics painted and dried under cold conditions may look OK, but the films will be less durable and more vulnerable to cracking. Oils, on the other hand can be used at freezing temperatures or below.

      https://www.justpaint.org/aspects-of-longevity-of-oil-and-acrylic-artist-paints/

       

       

    • April 24, 2020 10:19 PM EDT
    • I went to a local paint shop and talked to the bloke there and told him my problem he said that all enamel paints will do that is they are not fully "cured" he suggested I may more success if I left the paint to cure for at least a week or maybe more. 

      Evidently paint can be dry to touch but underneath the surface it is still wet and it is that layer which reacts with the new coat.

      One interesting thing the bloke showed me is a device that turns a small bottle into a spray pack, it has refills of propellant and extra bottles, the initial setup was around $35. The paint shop can mix any colour for me to put in the bottles.

      https://preval.com/all-products/
      I am seriously considering it as compared to the 2 Rust-Oleum which cost me $33 it may be a good buy and because I only do small paint jobs anyway so this "touchup" system may be an answer.

      The other option I have is to use artist acrylics dissolved in lacquer thinner ans use my airbrush, I did this on a loco and the paint job is well over 5 years old and showing no sign of deterioration.

       

      End result Rust-Oleum is I consider utter crap and I will never use it again.

    • April 24, 2020 6:18 PM EDT
    • "It's not you, it's them" - just saw this involving Rustoleum 2X over at The Rocketry Forum, https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/paint-job-gone-wrong.159049/#post-1990879

      So after four coats of white spray paint, I started to highlight my PML Spitfire with red spray paint...and it started to bubble immediately after I started spraying the red coat. Does anyone know why and where would I go from here. It looks like a chemical reaction. Both spray paints are from the same company. Any input would be most appreciated.

      (... and from another member)

      I don't know if there's a difference, but the only time I have had compatibility problems within a specific brand is when I tried to use Rustoleum "Painters Touch" with Rustoleum "American Accents". Even though the base coat was several days dry, it did exactly what happened to the OP. It also took FOREVER to dry so that it could be refinished. Since this occurred, I will not mix "A.A." with "P.T.".

    • April 24, 2020 12:46 PM EDT
    • I have cleaned the slot, cleaned the nozzles, heated the cans in warm water, and the darn Rustoleum rattle cans still clog on me. For me the clog is internal to the can. For one colour I really wanted, I ended up opening the can, outside with goggles on, and used the paint in my airbrush.

       

      I have come to realize that some things work differently at my house, then it does for other people. Some folks have very good luck with Rustoleum, but I haven't.

    • April 24, 2020 10:24 AM EDT
    • Lou Luczu said:

      Seriously, if you pull the spray top out, at the base of the stem, you will see a slot. I have had some success clearing that slot and making it a little wider. I don't know why it works, but it does.

       

      That's worth a look, thanks.

       

      Lately I have just been pulling the tops and dropping them in a jar of Mineral Spirits when not in use.

       

    • April 24, 2020 9:03 AM EDT
    • Seriously, if you pull the spray top out, at the base of the stem, you will see a slot. I have had some success clearing that slot and making it a little wider. I don't know why it works, but it does.

    • April 23, 2020 10:44 PM EDT
    • My problem with 20 minutes is I'm still painting the first coat ... awk!

    • April 23, 2020 10:35 PM EDT
    • Eric I agree they are a POS the trigger is awful  

    • April 23, 2020 9:09 PM EDT
    • I have onee can with the fancy trigger operated top...boy is that a pain to use.  You have to squeeze with all your strength to get a spray. Often kinda splattery too!

      I have also had cans clog internally, no way to clear them!  Dead! 

      I hate them but can get decent results at least some times.  I also spray some into their cap and use a brush for ttouch ups or detail bits.

    • April 23, 2020 8:05 PM EDT
    • This just in from Rust-Oleum technical support.

      Second coat to be applied within about 20 minutes or it will crinkle, the solvents will react with the enamel term used was "fries the bottom layer".

      Advice was to wait 7 days then give the paint a light sand to get rid of the crinkle then-re spray.

      As I have stripped it back down to the base plastic I will try the 20 minute re coat, to do another colour next to it I will have to wait 7 days to avoid the crinkle at the overlap.

      Or try something else might go to the paint store down the road and have a chat to them.

    • April 24, 2020 5:11 PM EDT
    • Thanks Dan :

      I already ordered the usa trains block but its good to know that there is an alternative . Thanks for the part number.

      Please be safe'

      Bob 

    • April 24, 2020 7:34 AM EDT
    • A good short motor block would be the one for the LGB American trolley.  length is 4 and 1/8 inch long whereas the USA Trains is 4 1/2 inch long.

      Part number at Trainli.com

      LGB-20380-799