Michael Glavin said:

Jon,

Great idea splitting up the cells to make all fit. That said, that's a lot of wires bunched up with the single cell?

Michael

Thanks. I don't really recall how that test pack was wired. I think there may have been two extra wires for the balancing port on my charger for the initial pack charge.  The final install only had two wires between the single cell and the board.

EDIT To add:  In that first pic, the pack B+/B1 wires are also tucked over by the single cell adding to the spaghetti confusion.

Jon,

Great idea splitting up the cells to make all fit. That said, that's a lot of wires bunched up with the single cell?

Michael

Jon, thanks so much for the information I have ordered the rail boss 4 and door charging circuit board, basically because it was on sale and available, I will have to measure the area very carefully because at least 1/3 of the boiler is taken up by the support bracket for the boiler so there isn't a lot of room left. Certainly would like to put everything into the engine but considering the size of the tender body I might be looking at a trailing car but being as this will be my passenger car engine I have first in line behind the engine a baggage/rpo car so it shouldn't be a problem, Thanks again so much for the reply, Bill  

Bill Barnwell said:

That is some determined engineering, how much voltage is each cell?

Standard LiIon 18650 cells, 3.7 Volts each.  The 4 cell pack is 14.8V fully charged.

That is some determined engineering, how much voltage is each cell?

I made this custom split pack for my Shay.  3 cells and the protection board in the boiler and one remote cell in the air tank...

Bill,

Generally user interaction with actual assembling, I.e., soldering Lithium Ion cells is NOT recommended. While cells with "tabs" can be soldered as a rule they are generally spot welded by battery pack assembler/packagers (FWIW cell manufacturers do NOT off battery packs, just loose individual cells).

Can you share the dimensions of the area your confined to? What voltage is desired?

If you don't have any luck finding what you need let us know, I can help with one off welded battery packs.

Michael

Hobbyking.com may have what you want, you can search by length, width and height (and a bunch of other parameters too like chemistry, mah, cells, etc).  I've used their page to find batteries that will fit into smaller spaces.

Bill Barnwell said:

Any one built their own lithium battery power packs, I/m running out of room in may tender section of my Mason Bogie and really only have the boiler left and was considering building one to fit in that area, Bill

Bill,

I make my own.  18650 cells (typical size) are readily available on Aliexpress.com, often intended for e-cigs, but I have been buying 4 at a time (14.4V) for around $10. While 18650 is most common, there are lots of other sizes, mostly shorter/smaller, and some have tabs for soldering.
The same site has 1,2 or 4 cell battery holders, plus they have protection boards so you don't over- or under-charge the batteries.

For a specific location like yours, I'd look for the tabbed ones so you can make up an odd-sized pack.  The protection board doesn't have to be near the batteries - just make sure it is between the batteries and the other electrics.

Like John said. Battery space has skinny 14.8 v cylindrical shaped packs that might fit in your boiler. 

Doc

These people will do custom packs too.

https://www.batteryspace.com

Check with Don Sweet @ https://www.rcsofne.com/

Remote Control Systems of New England
79 Abbott Rd
Penacook, NH 03303
Phone: (603) 321-1347
E-Mail address: donsweet@rcsofne.com

Any one built their own lithium battery power packs, I/m running out of room in may tender section of my Mason Bogie and really only have the boiler left and was considering building one to fit in that area, Bill

Thomas White said:

Greg and Rooster - I have some other sound system projects taking priority right now, so it will be awhile before I'll be able to test a hall sensor with the Phoenix sound board and Massoth decoder.  But once I do it, I'll certainly post the results, successful or unsuccessful, for everyone.

Thanks for both your inputs.

Tom

Tom ,

 Good luck.....I personally don't run sound on my ghetto roundy round RR but I do understand Hall triggers with my profession.

It's all good !

Matt - Thanks for your input.  It appears to match closely the guidance I received from Jim at Phoenix Sound.  I haven't tested the Massoth Hall Sensor wiring yet on a Phoenix PB17 but what I was concerned about was the 6.5 volts specs for the Hall Sensor.  Didn't know whether the Phoenix' 5 volts would be sufficient but you're finding that it is.

I don't know if this is helpful since the last post was two months ago.

But I've installed a Hall effect to a PB11.v6 version of the sound boards.
Albeit into a Ride-on 7.25inch scale locomotive, however the principal should be roughly the same.

This method also worked for a PB17 version, that I bought as a spare.
(I do not know if this will work for the current P8 and P14 sound boards.)



Ok, for anyone else who needs some help with Phoenix sounds to and 3 wire Hall effect switches.
Here is what you need to do.

1. On the Hall switch find outputs of each 3 wires is assigned to.
They should be, a Positive, a Negative, and the Signal.


Just like the instructions for a standard reed switch version.

2. the Signal wire needs to go into the chuff sensor terminal.

and the Negative wire goes into the suggested negative terminal.

3. Now, the positive wire, need to connect to the +5V.
On the PH17 this is also the volume up terminal, so you need to share it.
(I think the P8 has a separate terminal for +5V)


Give a test and see if it all works.
If it does, YAY! :-D
If not, then my instructions are a dud, sorry! :-(


Optional.
On my Ride on, the trigger magnet spins much to fast for the programming to keep track of the pulses.

If you have access to the PC programming.

- Under Feature Set.
- Terminal Polarity.

Find the one assigned for Chuff Sensor.

And change the Active Low, to Active High
It's usually just a tick option.

LGB is clever at hiding volume switches.  The Uintah Mallet had one hidden under one of the domes, which pulled off for access to the control.  The LG&B yellow Forney with factory sound had one turned with a small screw driver and accessed by pulling off the water fill hatch.  I had each of these engines, so I'm familiar with them.  Neither of these removable "covers" appeared to be removable at first glance, so just keep looking and try to pull off everything you can.  If it doesn't come off easily though, don't pull hard enough to break anything.

I've looked and (with difficulty) felt around in side the area as the User guide suggests.
But it's not there. :-(

just those 2 switches as Dan mentioned.

I have tried to contact Marklin/LGB, but I'm not sure how long it takes their email service.

User guide states it is next to the mode of operation switches, usually in the front cab.  These are the 2 switches, upper is for track vs pantograph power, bottom is for power on or off.

Hello everyone,

I've recently purchased this LGB locomotive.
And I'm struggling to understand the manual provided.

It said there is a volume control switch somewhere in the locomotive.
But I can't seem to find one in the location it claims to be.


I've looked all over the locomotive externally and can't find anything that would manual control the volume.


If anyone has one, could you yell me where to find and access it?

Matt