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    • November 8, 2019 5:35 PM EST
    • I have found Solvaset is one of the most aggressive decal solvents out there, sometimes you need to dilute it. If your decal does not yield to that product nothing else will probably do it. The effectiveness of these products is very dependent on the type of decal carrier film they are being applied to. You may have to experiment with different product. Don't forget to use some Microsol Microset under the decal to aid the process.

       

      I use a closed cell sponge, pressed down on to the decals to get them conform to complex compound curves, rivets and shut lines after applying a solvent. I also brush in the decal with solvent to help it to conform, but you must be careful with this method to minimise the risk of distortion.

       

      I only use hair dryers on self adhesive decals, with waterslide type types a hair dryer can cause the decal to curl and crack. If you are using a dry print type decal you could try spotting on the decal's surface with a bit of isopropyl alcohol, but use great care as this product is usually used ro remove dry print from surfaces it has been applied to. 

    • November 8, 2019 4:18 PM EST
    • Forrest Scott Wood said:

       

      I don't like the idea of hair dryers being pointed at plastic models even if the hair dryer itself is plastic.

      I use a hair dryer all the time when I'm weathering. It won't hurt the model. A true heat gun will warp plastic if you leave it long enough, but a hair dryer even on high heat doesn't put out enough heat to deform the plastic.

    • November 8, 2019 3:47 PM EST
    • Saw this today in the automotive modeling section of Aircraft Resource Center Forum.
      Don't know that I'd be willing to try it.

      I don't like the idea of hair dryers being pointed at plastic models even if the hair dryer itself is plastic.


      I started adding the Studio 27 carbon decals on the engine cover.  The Studio 27 decals and thick, brittle, and not easy to use- even with scalding hot water and a liberal bath of Solvaset.  I applied two sections on the engine cover and was about to toss the whole set until I read to use a hairdryer during application.  It’s the only way to get them to conform without cracking and I’ve had much better results since...here’s where it stands now:


      Something I have done on a few projects since reading it in a Tamiya model kit's instructions in 1980s is apply pressure with a soft cloth dampened with hot water; no setting solution was mentioned.
      But I expect that should not be done while setting solution is in place and liquid, I waited for it to evaporate.

    • November 8, 2019 12:53 PM EST
    • Rolling a Q-Tip gently over it works pretty good. 

    • November 8, 2019 12:45 PM EST
    • Jason,

       

      what is the substrate of your model? if wood I have on occasion used a 00 brush and some lacquer thinner to help the process along. just do not apply too much.

       

      Al P.

    • November 8, 2019 11:15 AM EST
    • If it's trapped air, I've used pins or a scalpel tip to let it out.

      Otherwise keep it wet and give more time.

    • November 8, 2019 10:53 AM EST
    • Question on my decals. I have a set of San Juan 1:20.3 15mm decals. I just used them on a build and I’m having issues with it conforming to the rivets. I used the decal solvent too. Any suggestions?

       

      Thanks

      Jason

    • November 8, 2019 2:41 PM EST
    • Yeah, so one adjustment directly affects end play on the motor, the other presses on the shaft in the "pivoting" gearbox, and from what you say, can take free play out of the universal, and I suppose will eventually take up free play on the other direction of the motor.

       

      The thing that is interesting to me is which should be adjusted first, and how the interplay between the 2 adjustments exhibits itself.

       

      Clearly if both adjustments can affect the motor end play in each direction, you could probably have more than one "final setting" that would have different offsets in the motor, and how to make sure you are not offsetting the motor shaft too much in either direction?

       

      Greg

    • November 8, 2019 11:37 AM EST
    • You know I read George's stuff on the lash screw and it's a bit confusing.

       

      As I have documented, and actually worked with George, there are a number of versions of the motor block, but the ones with lash screws were pretty early.

       

      I'm going to have to disassemble some to look inside, the single lash screw ones seem to only adjust the lash at one end of the motor, and it's not clear if there is a ball bearing between the lash screw and the motor shaft or not.

       

      Also the dual lash setups have an additional lash adjustment, but on the "rocking" gearbox, so you are adjusting one end of the shaft in that gearbox, not the motor, and there must be some interaction between that lash adjustment and the play in the universal between that rocking gearbox and the universal (which also apparently came in 2 versions).

       

      Anyone more experienced with these? I'm particularly interested in his reference to squeaking and turning the lash screw 10 degrees to stop it (but he does not indicate tighter or looser)

       

      Greg

    • November 8, 2019 6:46 AM EST
    • http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/brick_fix.html

    • November 7, 2019 6:15 PM EST
    • Rocky,

      The gears are in good shape as the engine hasn't been hardly ever run. I did grease the gears and shafts very well and that did seem to help quiet the noise quite a bit but I just wanted to make sure that turning that adjustment screw doesn't cause excessive wear on the gears or shafts. I know the screw has been turned, I can tell. The reason I have a concern about it is because when I first started using the locomotive I had a 1 amp draw on the transformer, especially in reverse. That problem seems to have gone away now and I was just trying to make sure that we weren't going to have damage to the drive by having that screw out of adjustment. It's one of the things I  don't understand in the Aristocraft, G scale world and I didn't know how to adjust it. I didn't know if I should try to re-adjust it or leave it alone but one thing I do know for sure is that it has been messed with before by the previous owner and that may not be good. The locomotive drive seems to be fairly quiet now and is no longer pulling any amperage in either direction, so maybe it's okay. I just hate to run it and damage the gears down the road, if it is out of adjustment. However, if anyone knows how those are supposed to be adjusted, any information would be appreciated on it.

      Thanks so much! Ken

    • November 7, 2019 3:08 PM EST
    • Ken, 

      I would check the "U-joint" connecting the motor to the gearbox.  Unless there's an actual gear issue. This is usually the noise maker.  You might try putting some grease on there to quiet it down.  Also when open you may be able to see if the adjustment screw has any effect on the pressure applied to this joint.  I'm honestly not sure if it makes a difference...and there are many different versions, some don't even have the screws at all.  

    • November 7, 2019 10:40 AM EST
    • Thanks everyone! Ken

    • November 6, 2019 8:42 AM EST
    • Good job Ken!

    • November 6, 2019 4:12 AM EST
    • Thanks Ted,

      A few modifications, some silver paint and a moderate amount of time yielded these results. Not perfect but acceptable to the kids that run it. I am in need of one gearbox though, if anyone has a spare. One is making a little noise. Maybe the screw needs adjustment. It looks like someone turned it before and I don't know where or how to set those screws at the ends of those gearboxes/drive? Thanks! 

      [url=https://postimg.cc/ppgdWzBF][img]https://i.postimg.cc/pLd5BBhq/20190917-213120.jpg[/img][/url]

      [url=https://postimg.cc/RJZWtm3J][img]https://i.postimg.cc/GtkGZhdK/20190917-213148.jpg[/img][/url]

      [url=https://postimg.cc/w1v1MgCC][img]https://i.postimg.cc/rwGxhpQw/20190917-213025.jpg[/img][/url]

      [url=https://postimg.cc/nMmmvFwB][img]https://i.postimg.cc/zDtkY3Ct/20190917-174525.jpg[/img][/url]

      [url=https://postimg.cc/ns5sDg43][img]https://i.postimg.cc/4d4prTmR/20190917-174020.jpg[/img][/url]

      [url=https://postimg.cc/8FFcN42M][img]https://i.postimg.cc/R0dH1bGs/20190917-174247.jpg[/img][/url]

    • October 3, 2019 9:12 PM EDT
    • Would be pretty hard to free-hand it I would think, but cheap to try!

       

      Greg

    • October 3, 2019 6:56 PM EDT
    • Greg, I think it would be worth it to buy a cheap set of pliers and using just a Dremel type tool to grind your own profiles into the jaws. I may try that and see how well I can do it.

    • October 3, 2019 3:38 PM EDT
    • I was lucky to buy these, look closely, they crimp a joiner while on the rail... makes better contact at the foot of the rail.

       

      The guy who made these is no longer around, but I would asume a guy with a mill could do this to a pair of pliers.

       

    • October 3, 2019 3:30 PM EDT
    • In HO the joiners spring tension, actually compression, is how they make good contact and transfer power. But we all know that can eventually fail. and that is why I used to recommend to newbies in the smaller scales, that they put feeder wires on every other, or every third section of rail. That way both joiners, at both ends of rail without a feeder, would have to fail to create a dead spot. On my outdoor set up, every piece of rail, except the switches, and the rail on the long bridge, have feeder wires attached to them. Kind of a belt AND suspenders kinda of thing.