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    • November 8, 2019 12:45 PM EST
    • Jason,


      what is the substrate of your model? if wood I have on occasion used a 00 brush and some lacquer thinner to help the process along. just do not apply too much.


      Al P.

    • November 8, 2019 11:15 AM EST
    • If it's trapped air, I've used pins or a scalpel tip to let it out.

      Otherwise keep it wet and give more time.

    • November 8, 2019 10:53 AM EST
    • Question on my decals. I have a set of San Juan 1:20.3 15mm decals. I just used them on a build and I’m having issues with it conforming to the rivets. I used the decal solvent too. Any suggestions?




    • November 8, 2019 11:37 AM EST
    • You know I read George's stuff on the lash screw and it's a bit confusing.


      As I have documented, and actually worked with George, there are a number of versions of the motor block, but the ones with lash screws were pretty early.


      I'm going to have to disassemble some to look inside, the single lash screw ones seem to only adjust the lash at one end of the motor, and it's not clear if there is a ball bearing between the lash screw and the motor shaft or not.


      Also the dual lash setups have an additional lash adjustment, but on the "rocking" gearbox, so you are adjusting one end of the shaft in that gearbox, not the motor, and there must be some interaction between that lash adjustment and the play in the universal between that rocking gearbox and the universal (which also apparently came in 2 versions).


      Anyone more experienced with these? I'm particularly interested in his reference to squeaking and turning the lash screw 10 degrees to stop it (but he does not indicate tighter or looser)



    • November 8, 2019 6:46 AM EST

    • November 7, 2019 6:15 PM EST
    • Rocky,

      The gears are in good shape as the engine hasn't been hardly ever run. I did grease the gears and shafts very well and that did seem to help quiet the noise quite a bit but I just wanted to make sure that turning that adjustment screw doesn't cause excessive wear on the gears or shafts. I know the screw has been turned, I can tell. The reason I have a concern about it is because when I first started using the locomotive I had a 1 amp draw on the transformer, especially in reverse. That problem seems to have gone away now and I was just trying to make sure that we weren't going to have damage to the drive by having that screw out of adjustment. It's one of the things I  don't understand in the Aristocraft, G scale world and I didn't know how to adjust it. I didn't know if I should try to re-adjust it or leave it alone but one thing I do know for sure is that it has been messed with before by the previous owner and that may not be good. The locomotive drive seems to be fairly quiet now and is no longer pulling any amperage in either direction, so maybe it's okay. I just hate to run it and damage the gears down the road, if it is out of adjustment. However, if anyone knows how those are supposed to be adjusted, any information would be appreciated on it.

      Thanks so much! Ken

    • November 7, 2019 3:08 PM EST
    • Ken, 

      I would check the "U-joint" connecting the motor to the gearbox.  Unless there's an actual gear issue. This is usually the noise maker.  You might try putting some grease on there to quiet it down.  Also when open you may be able to see if the adjustment screw has any effect on the pressure applied to this joint.  I'm honestly not sure if it makes a difference...and there are many different versions, some don't even have the screws at all.  

    • November 7, 2019 10:40 AM EST
    • Thanks everyone! Ken

    • November 6, 2019 8:42 AM EST
    • Good job Ken!

    • November 6, 2019 4:12 AM EST
    • Thanks Ted,

      A few modifications, some silver paint and a moderate amount of time yielded these results. Not perfect but acceptable to the kids that run it. I am in need of one gearbox though, if anyone has a spare. One is making a little noise. Maybe the screw needs adjustment. It looks like someone turned it before and I don't know where or how to set those screws at the ends of those gearboxes/drive? Thanks! 







    • October 3, 2019 9:12 PM EDT
    • Would be pretty hard to free-hand it I would think, but cheap to try!



    • October 3, 2019 6:56 PM EDT
    • Greg, I think it would be worth it to buy a cheap set of pliers and using just a Dremel type tool to grind your own profiles into the jaws. I may try that and see how well I can do it.

    • October 3, 2019 3:38 PM EDT
    • I was lucky to buy these, look closely, they crimp a joiner while on the rail... makes better contact at the foot of the rail.


      The guy who made these is no longer around, but I would asume a guy with a mill could do this to a pair of pliers.


    • October 3, 2019 3:30 PM EDT
    • In HO the joiners spring tension, actually compression, is how they make good contact and transfer power. But we all know that can eventually fail. and that is why I used to recommend to newbies in the smaller scales, that they put feeder wires on every other, or every third section of rail. That way both joiners, at both ends of rail without a feeder, would have to fail to create a dead spot. On my outdoor set up, every piece of rail, except the switches, and the rail on the long bridge, have feeder wires attached to them. Kind of a belt AND suspenders kinda of thing.

    • October 3, 2019 12:57 PM EDT
    • Something to keep in mind as to sufficient metal to metal contact is the type of rail joiners used.  For example, Split Jaws have Allen head screws that can make for a good & tight connection, but some joiners like Aristo's slide on types are very loose unless the 2mm screws are used to tighten them at both ends, including at the mating track that some folks may neglect to use any screws.  Yet other slide on type joiners have no screws and rely on just the spring action to make contact.  That's why some folks solder a jumper wire at the base of the mating tracks' rails for track power users.


    • October 2, 2019 7:05 PM EDT
    • Right that is the key, no matter what you think, there is enough metal to metal contact to conduct, even if you have smeared all the contact surfaces with a dielectric grease (non conducting). 


      So, in most cases a conducting grease is not needed. LGB "conductive grease" is not conductive, in the least, and has worked well in rail joiners for decades. It's the oxygen in the air that creates oxidation, and some other liquids or chemicals can cause corrosion.




    • October 1, 2019 3:35 PM EDT
    • Ted yes, but once the clamp is tight, the thickness of the lube isn't much, so even if its not a great conductor, its shouldn't introduce too much resistance into the circuit. And I would think that much of the contact surface between clamp and rail is metal on metal, because the lube was squeezed out.


      In the copier world, we used a dialectic grease on the rotating contacts for the drum blanket (heater). That stuff wasn't a great conductor neither, but its real job was to prevent corrosion on the contacts to maintain conductivity. I suspect the same can be said about the Aristo crap, ah, grease.

    • October 1, 2019 1:31 PM EDT
    • David Marconi,FOGCH said:

      So after reading through three times and still not coming up with a direct answer. I need to ask if Aristo-Electralube  is conductive or not and will  it work if used in rail joints where track power is the norm ? Do you have a definitive answer on this or do I use the Silver conductive grease mentioned on your vignette Ted. Thank you for an answer

      Sorry for the late reply,

      From what I measured, Electralube does conduct, and work on rail joints beneficial for track power users, but it won't conduct as good as a gold or silver based lubricant that cost notably more money.


    • September 30, 2019 11:08 PM EDT
    • Yep, that's the one safe application I can think of ;-)


      I've found though that just keeping moisture and oxygen out of the joint will do just as well... 10 year test with nothing, moly grease, anti-sieze, lgb "conductive grease", and about 5 years with Ideal No-alox...

      No significant differences, the anti sieze was better on stainless steel screws in stainless clamps though, with the Ideal No-alox a good second.



    • September 30, 2019 9:13 PM EDT
    • Greg, I would use it for the use that I stated, to put in rail clamps to keep water and gunk out of them to preserve conduction through the clamps.