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    • November 29, 2019 1:06 PM EST
    • I think you can put the bottom cover back on and just remove those 2 screws...  did you catch the springs and brushes as you pulled the wheels out?



    • November 29, 2019 1:04 PM EST
    • After lifting the wheel axles out do I need to unscrew these screws to get at the motor?

    • November 28, 2019 3:00 PM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      hmm, maybe a newer model? The oldest blocks were split vertically like the pdf.


      Newer stuff is got a bottom cover. Maybe a picture of the motor block?


      Also, are you positive on the model number?




      Yes, the number on the bottom says 2036.  And yes, it has a bottom cover.

    • November 28, 2019 2:19 PM EST
    • hmm, maybe a newer model? The oldest blocks were split vertically like the pdf.


      Newer stuff is got a bottom cover. Maybe a picture of the motor block?


      Also, are you positive on the model number?



    • November 28, 2019 10:37 AM EST
    • Yeah, I found that same pdf but the diagram does not look like the motor assembly in my trolley.

    • November 28, 2019 6:57 AM EST
    • You need to remove the whole motor block from the body, then remove the top plate.

      Motor is keyed, be sure you install it correctly or you will strip an axle gear.  The alignment pin is on the power connection end of the motor.


    • November 28, 2019 1:22 AM EST
    • manual in German, but shows how it comes apart:



    • November 27, 2019 6:19 PM EST
    • Can someone please point me to directions on how to replace the motor in the LGB 2036 Trolley?

      LGB 2036 Trolley


    • November 15, 2019 8:27 AM EST
    • Thank y’all for the help. It is that the ink doesn’t bend..old style. And Stan, for an easy fix of Just taking the rivets off with a flat blade exacto where the decal is going to be. If your okay with rivets not showing through the decal like it’s painted on. Mine unfortunately we’re already installed so I’m going to try the chemical and hair dryer route if it doesn’t work.. junk the decals and starting over.



    • November 13, 2019 9:05 AM EST
    • Hi Jason...  Might have a solution for you...   Contact me via email or phone.. 

    • November 12, 2019 7:10 PM EST
    • Thanks everyone for all the info. I have came to the conclusion that the decals must’ve been n.o.s. It definitely is the ink cracking up off of the rivets.



    • November 10, 2019 4:06 AM EST
    • I am assuming the decals you are using Jason are of the waterslide type. Do the San Juan decals have a lacquer coat applied over the printed image as supplied ? If not, which is unusual but not impossible, then you may experience the problem you have with the print smearing or "lifting off", especially if you are "working" the decal in its wetted state with solvents. You might want to ask the supplier if this lacquer coat should have been applied and might be missing. Or this coating might be damaged or deleted in some way, even by the solvent you are using. There is also a risk of distorting the decal when manipulating it in any way once you have applied a decal solvent. Depends on how sensitive its material is to those solvent(s) used. 


      How old is the decal sheet you are using ? Old stock waterslide type decals are prone to cracking/curling and even whole or partial disintegration when decal placement products are applied, or even just in separation from their backing sheet. Use of a heat source, hairdryer, will only exacerbate this problem. Some decals' carrier and lacquer coating do not respond well, if at all, to proprietary decal solvent and setting solutions and can also be the cause of curling. You should always experiment first with a redundant, if available, part of the decal sheet to see how it reacts to the products you are using. Or take advise from the manufacturer on what to use.


      If you are not sure Jason of the basic construction and print/coating sequence of a waterslide decal sheet it is as follows - Absorbent paper substrate - Then, adhesive and carrier film is coated onto/printed on to it. It may cover the substrate sheet completely or be printed to conform only to the outlines of the individual design items to follow - Next, printed design, one pass if a modern inkjet type or multiple passes with more than one colour if offset printed or with a printer that requires more than one pass to reproduce the image - Finally, lacquer coat, read as as carrier for its application. With this whole process you can end up with a decal that in terms of material composition and thickness is quite resistant to solvents and applying over fine relief detail. There is no plastic film as far as I know normally used in the process, you usually only find that with self adhesive decals in my experience. Gloss coating of the surface for the decal to be applied to is only done to "hide" the carrier film, it has no other function as far as I am aware.


      Some waterslide decals are made so the laquer coat can be removed, with care, so that you leave what appears to the naked eye, a "tampo" printed appearance, but that only works when you are using solid block designs with no show through and with the adhesive/carrier film printed as a close match to the individual decal outline shapes. I trust this helps you Jason in diagnosing and resolving the problem you are having. If all else fails contact San Juan. 

    • November 9, 2019 9:40 AM EST
    • Waterslide decals should be applied to a Gloss surface for best results . After they are cured you can apply any top coat ( dull or gloss) of your choice.

    • November 9, 2019 5:54 AM EST
    • I use a piece of foam rubber to press decals down around details, working from the center out. As suggested, I wet the surface with a setting solution before I place the decal. I have only had to use a hair dryer on occasion, usually the setting solution and foam will do the trick. While working with the decals I blot the surface of the decal, I make sure that I don't rub the surface of the decal, because it can cause some decal ink/paint to smear,

    • November 13, 2019 4:35 PM EST
    • I used Dawn and water mixed in a soapy solution

    • November 13, 2019 1:35 PM EST
    • I'd try regular tape (blue, scotch, w.h.y.) - should bring it off without hurting the paint.


      As an aside, I read that the manufacturers pack their coaches (etc.) in plastic bags as styrofoam will scratch the paint.  I am getting fastidious about keeping the plastic or similar when storing them in the original styrofoam.

    • November 13, 2019 12:48 AM EST
    • I've used a "green weenie," with success.  Just be careful, don't press too hard.


      Then I learned to use plastic bags to replace the original plastic sleeve.

    • November 12, 2019 11:43 PM EST
    • I have A streamliner that has Styrofoam residue on the roof from being stored in the box. Has anyone removed this from the paint without damaging it. Don't really want to repaint the roof.... Thanks!!... Travis


    • November 10, 2019 1:28 AM EST
    • As to the adjustment of the motor block set screws, I first see if both have a thread exposure of about 1/8 inch between screw head and plastic - or set them about the same for that value.  Then progressively adjust similar amount for each back and forth.


    • November 9, 2019 3:40 AM EST
    • Ted, Greg,

      Finally, information that is useful in regards to the adjustment of this drives lash screws. I will definitely give it a try.

      Thank you so much!