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    • December 7, 2019 10:07 AM EST
    • Yes Bill, the 779 coupler is a 'G' scale coupler, not the #1 (1:32). I am using them on the Bachmann 45 Ton Spectrum and they work great.

    • December 7, 2019 9:40 AM EST
    • How about, not familiar with their newer couplers because all I have used is their #830 and #831 but I see they now make a 779 that will bolt to a flat vertical surface, so ? is #779 the same style as the 830 meaning still G scale and not their 1/32 

    • December 7, 2019 7:24 AM EST
    • The LGB front coupler serves 3 purposes.  Locks the engine together, has a hole for the smoke stack and of course it is used to couple.

      You could try to mount a kadee to a modified LGB loop for this engine by cutting off the loop in order to use the piece that goes inside the engine to lock it together.

      .

    • December 6, 2019 6:30 PM EST
    • Anyone know does Kadee make a G scale coupler that fits in place of the factory loop couple on the front of a LGB 2010 or 2020 engine? 

    • December 2, 2019 2:31 PM EST
    • Sounds like that was the best course for you. I think both Dan and I assumed the center one of the 3 screws, but if it was not that obvious then having someone else do it was most likely the best.

       

      Greg

    • December 2, 2019 2:03 PM EST
    • Dan Pierce said:

      he 2 yellow circled screws will allow you to remove the motor block.  Then remove the 2 screws on top of the motor block and take out the motor. 

      Observe the ends of the motor shaft for small metal balls, these are thrust bearings for the old motor blocks that did not have them. 

      Newer motors do not need these small balls and remove them or they can cause problems.

       

      There are 6 screws circled.  However, unfortunately this is pretty much greek to me.  I took it to the local train shop, Eastside Trains in Kirkland, WA to have them put a new motor in. 

    • November 30, 2019 7:55 AM EST
    • he 2 yellow circled screws will allow you to remove the motor block.  Then remove the 2 screws on top of the motor block and take out the motor. 

      Observe the ends of the motor shaft for small metal balls, these are thrust bearings for the old motor blocks that did not have them. 

      Newer motors do not need these small balls and remove them or they can cause problems.

    • November 29, 2019 9:48 PM EST
    • Sorry, I thought you meant the 2 center screws...

       

      Dan will know for sure.... paging Dan...

       

       

    • November 29, 2019 1:37 PM EST
    • 2 screws?  There's 6 screws there.  The brushes stayed in place.

    • November 29, 2019 1:06 PM EST
    • I think you can put the bottom cover back on and just remove those 2 screws...  did you catch the springs and brushes as you pulled the wheels out?

       

      Greg

    • November 29, 2019 1:04 PM EST
    • After lifting the wheel axles out do I need to unscrew these screws to get at the motor?

    • November 28, 2019 3:00 PM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      hmm, maybe a newer model? The oldest blocks were split vertically like the pdf.

       

      Newer stuff is got a bottom cover. Maybe a picture of the motor block?

       

      Also, are you positive on the model number?

       

      Greg

       

      Yes, the number on the bottom says 2036.  And yes, it has a bottom cover.

    • November 28, 2019 2:19 PM EST
    • hmm, maybe a newer model? The oldest blocks were split vertically like the pdf.

       

      Newer stuff is got a bottom cover. Maybe a picture of the motor block?

       

      Also, are you positive on the model number?

       

      Greg

    • November 28, 2019 10:37 AM EST
    • Yeah, I found that same pdf but the diagram does not look like the motor assembly in my trolley.

    • November 28, 2019 6:57 AM EST
    • You need to remove the whole motor block from the body, then remove the top plate.

      Motor is keyed, be sure you install it correctly or you will strip an axle gear.  The alignment pin is on the power connection end of the motor.

       

    • November 28, 2019 1:22 AM EST
    • manual in German, but shows how it comes apart: https://www.trainli.com/USER-GUIDE-PDF/New%20LGB%20Engines/lgb-2036-user-guide.pdf

       

       

    • November 27, 2019 6:19 PM EST
    • Can someone please point me to directions on how to replace the motor in the LGB 2036 Trolley?

      LGB 2036 Trolley

       

    • November 15, 2019 8:27 AM EST
    • Thank y’all for the help. It is that the ink doesn’t bend..old style. And Stan, for an easy fix of Just taking the rivets off with a flat blade exacto where the decal is going to be. If your okay with rivets not showing through the decal like it’s painted on. Mine unfortunately we’re already installed so I’m going to try the chemical and hair dryer route if it doesn’t work.. junk the decals and starting over.

       

      Jason

    • November 13, 2019 4:35 PM EST
    • I used Dawn and water mixed in a soapy solution

    • November 13, 2019 1:35 PM EST
    • I'd try regular tape (blue, scotch, w.h.y.) - should bring it off without hurting the paint.

       

      As an aside, I read that the manufacturers pack their coaches (etc.) in plastic bags as styrofoam will scratch the paint.  I am getting fastidious about keeping the plastic or similar when storing them in the original styrofoam.