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    • May 16, 2019 8:45 AM EDT
    • A J said:

      Thomas,

      My Track Cleaning Loco is the latest version, Red LGB/Marklin  The decoder is built in.

      i bought it new about 3 years ago. Interestingly the cleaning motor has always rotated the wheels in the same direction as the movement, not opposite as it is meant too. Easy to change but not necessary, it cleans well. 

       

      Andrew

       

      Andrew - I have both the Red version you have plus recently bought a used Yellow version with the onboard DCC decoder.......the last version of the Yellow one. 

      As already mentioned, you just switch the wires going to the cleaning motor.  It's easy to access that motor block as stated in your LGB Owner's Manual.  In fact, there's a reason LGB and LGB/Marklin designed the wheels to turn in the opposite direction........I believe it causes less grinding on your brass rails compared to the forward direction your loco's cleaning wheels are doing.  So suggest you switch those wires.

    • May 16, 2019 8:04 AM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      So the bottom line is use clock#1 only not matter what the documentation says, and, as I have seen on the European sites, get the massoth service tool and slam one of the files down it's throat (rewriting a bunch of CVs) because a simple reset really does not fully reset the decoder.

       

      Greg

      ++++++++++++++

      Greg - I tried several times to change CV196=255 (chuff simulation) to CV196=0 (chuff sensor) plus several other CVs using the Massoth Service Tool but most wouldn't permanently take.  So I finally did a CV7=55 basic reset and then I was able to make the changes.  Let's face it, Roger's decoder has been through the ringer with so many people (Roger/Massoth Dealer/Mohammed; you; Massoth Technical-Germany; myself) trying to make CV changes using different DCC systems........no wonder it needed a reset when I tinkered with it.  So I wouldn't necessarily ding Massoth for that issue.  But you're right, some of the Massoth documentation's German to English translations are a little vague or inaccurate.  And while I've made many successful CV changes to Massoth decoders using the Massoth DiMax Navigator handheld controller and my Piko Central Station, the surest, fastest and easiest approach for volume CV changes is to use the Massoth Service Tool software (must also use the Massoth PC Interface device).  I'm sure there are many other decoder brands that also have their quirks.  And, under the circumstances, it was extremely helpful that I have a Massoth Dealer in Germany to consult with on Massoth issues.......he knows the products and also has a direct communications channel with the Massoth Germany folks speaking German to German!

    • May 15, 2019 11:32 PM EDT
    • So the bottom line is use clock#1 only not matter what the documentation says, and, as I have seen on the European sites, get the massoth service tool and slam one of the files down it's throat (rewriting a bunch of CVs) because a simple reset really does not fully reset the decoder.

       

      Greg

    • May 15, 2019 9:57 AM EDT
    • Okay - The Massoth S Decoder is working fine using a two wire chuff sensor and magnet.  CV196=0 which turns off the chuff simulation.  I had to first do a decoder reset using my Massoth PC Interface Tool/Massoth Service Tool system.......I couldn't at first get the CV196=0 to take.  There had been so many people involved making CV changes trying to help out that it needed a reset.  I also unsoldered the wires that Roger had installed on the bottom solder connections which were for using Clock#2.  Instead I'm providing Roger with a Massoth cable connector he can use that plugs into the Clock connector on the top of the decoder.......he can then solder the two wires from his chuff sensor to this connector.  

      Note:  It's best to use the Massoth PC Interface Tool/Massoth Service Tool software to make CV adjustments on Massoth decoders, especially in this troubled-decoder situation, although I first tried using my Massoth DixMax Navigator which will usually work fine.

      Case closed.

      Tom

    • May 12, 2019 2:08 PM EDT
    • Roger - I'm going to send you an off-line email but since I'm currently online with this forum posting in the General Forum Topic, I thought I'd also share my findings with ALCON, as we said when I was active duty Navy officer (All Concerned).

      I heard back from my Massoth Dealer in Germany who has a direct line and standing with the Massoth folks.  The finding is that the Massoth decoder's Clock#2 is to be used only for one specific locomotive that needs it, 

      1. The clock#2 is only to be used for a special locomotive, the Ballenberg, for the control of the steam cycle when the locomotive drives in the rack. For the clock control only the clock input #1 should be used.

      My comment:  The Massoth Installation and Configuration Manuals do not explain this.

      2. The Clock#1 chuff rate threshold can be adjusted with CV193.

      3.  Besides using Clock#1 with a three wire Massoth Pulse Generator/Hall Sensor, can the Clock #1 be used with a 2 wire chuff sensor?  Answer:  Yes!

      My comment:  The Massoth Installation and Configuration Manuals state to only use a Massoth Pulse Generator/Hall Sensor on Clock#1 which is a three wire unit.  Again, the Massoth German to English translations leave some room for improvement!

      I'll test using a two wire chuff sensor on Clock#1 with the Simulation Chuff turned off.  If it works well, then that's your solution.  So we don't need to worry about the double chuff caused by using Clock#2.

      Lesson Learned.......consult the decoder manufacture for technical guidance and hopefully they understand the customer's issue/problem/question........in this case they did not when Roger shipped the decoder to Massoth in Germany for assistance.

      Tom

    • May 4, 2019 10:23 PM EDT
    • Dan,

       

      Working on it. getting some good photos and a bit of a tutorial. Probably be ready in a week or so once the kids activities settle a bit.

       

      Thanks,

      Chris

       

       

    • May 1, 2019 9:58 AM EDT
    • Chris, how bout some photos of your solution.

    • April 29, 2019 2:41 PM EDT
    • Thanks All.

      A quick update on my progress. After some fussing about, I realized the solution to my clear lenses was right in front of me! My wife makes Rhinestone shirts, and low and behold, clear rhinestones make perfect marker lenses and headlight lenses. Once you scrape the "reflective" or "glue" off the back, that makes them a bit scratched/frosted and a slight hit with 600 grit sand paper, makes the super bright LED's look perfect. A final bit of expanding of the factory holes in the U25, and I have replacement parts for the lenses.

       

      If anyone is curious it is 6.5mm clear rhinestones that fit like a glove. And to ream out the U25 marker light holes with 1/4 inch drill bit hand turned, not in a drill, to widen them a bit.

       

      Gilbert, Thanks for the info, let me take a look at your site.

       

      -Chris

       

       

       

       

    • April 28, 2019 3:18 PM EDT
    • Chris Brancato 

      I may be able to help you with the other missing parts. I replicate the Aristocraft parts by 3D printing. If it is not already in my website listings, I would need an original to measure up to create the CAD file. The original can also be a mirror image or a broken part. 

      If you can ship me the original, the new part is sold to you for the price I will be listing it on my website. I absorb the cost of the product development by listing this new part on my website and selling many more to other railroaders. I return the original with the shipped order of the new part.

      There are over 100 parts in the listings for your Aristocraft engines and rolling stock. Sorry, not many fit on the U-25. My listings probably reflect the popularity and production numbers of the models issued originally by Aristocraft.

      Thank you for the support of guys like David Maynard and Father Fred Mills

      Gilbert Lacroix   GLX Scale Models  www.glxscalemodels.com

    • April 27, 2019 10:04 AM EDT
    • When I added lenses to my C-16's class lights I wanted a frosted look. I used a paper punch to pop out circles from a yogurt cover. I imagine any clear plastic could be used along with a spray of UV protection.

    • April 27, 2019 6:44 AM EDT
    • GLX makes some Aristo parts, maybe Gilbert at GLX can help with certain parts. As for clear lenses, you should be able to come up with something for those.

    • April 26, 2019 1:21 AM EDT
    • Hi All,

       

      I know for the most part I am SOL, but hoping someone has a solution.

       

       I need the clear marker light lenses for the front/rear of the engine. Anyone have these or any idea how to make or repurpose something to make them? 

       

      Also need a few other parts for a Santa Fe red/silver Uboat. If anyone has one for parts in decent shape, would be open to purchase for what I need.

       

      Any help or ideas or direction is much appreciated. 

       

      Thanks,

      chris 

    • April 21, 2019 10:11 AM EDT
    • " Rooster " said:

      Not sure if Aristo made a ditch lite Tool but Kadee may have not real sure though!

      Yes, I understand that they made a ditch light "Tool" and I thought you were the designated tool??

    • April 21, 2019 2:36 AM EDT
    • It turned out I needed to rewire the ditch lights to work with the headlights, so I swapped them out. The ditch lights are 3mm round LED's. Looks much better with the new LED's.

       

      Shane

       

       

       

       

    • April 20, 2019 7:29 PM EDT
    • Bruce D. Chandler said:

      Well, sure the trucks are fixed...but what about the cat????

      Sounds like that damn cat.

    • April 20, 2019 7:12 PM EDT
    • Well, sure the trucks are fixed...but what about the cat????

    • April 20, 2019 2:02 PM EDT
    • My quick and simple repair...  Take the broken piece drill the center hole out super glue it back.  Nex drill a pilot hole into the underbody. I then drive a deck screw through the truck, the broken piece, and into the underbody of the car.  It pokes through into the car...but its solid, quick, and the head is large enough to hold the truck without a washer.  

    • April 20, 2019 10:20 AM EDT
    • I don't know if you can drop the frame on the car you are working on, but if you can, this is how I solved it on an Aristo Classic car with a T-Nut from above:

      Broken bolster...

       

      Removed frame, cut a fill piece and installed a T-Nut on the inside of bolster...

       

      From the bottom...

       

      I still had the broken piece, so it was glued in place only to act as a fill, not to bear the force...

       

      Then I used a machine screw to re-attach the truck...

       

      That fix was done years ago and the car has been in battery car service ever since with no failure.

       

    • April 20, 2019 8:29 AM EDT
    • Steve Featherkile said:

      Thanks, Roos.  I'm guessing that some glue is involved to attach the tube after it's lined up?

       

      The cat owns the house.  I live, only to serve her.

      No glue ...the screw holds the tubing tight in place. You will want the tubing about 1/32 to 1/16" above the truck bolster. If I get some shop time in today I will take more pics.