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    • April 23, 2020 3:14 PM EDT
    • The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers.  They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don't clog up.

      I like the primers - regular or automotive, Rust-o or Krylon. They seem to produce a nice smooth base for a regular satin or gloss paint.

      I don't seem to get clogs with either. I turn them upside down and spray, and then wipe the nozzle. Maybe the wipe takes out most of the stuff that would clog.

       

    • April 23, 2020 1:20 PM EDT
    • The majority of spray can paints on the market today also have mixed in primer which adds an extra layer of paint and will hide some fine detail, I have found that most, up until now, Krylon paint doesn't and you can also find good fine mist spray paints at automotive paint stores which spray much finer

    • April 23, 2020 11:41 AM EDT
    • I've seen Bruce Willis clear them up by putting them in a Microwave.

    • April 23, 2020 10:45 AM EDT
    • Jerry Bohlander said:

      FWIW, I try to never use spray can paint if the can is cold (define that as you like).  I have even put spray cans in slightly warm water from the sink to warm them up.

      I found that this would improve the spray pattern, making it finer for model / weathering, but you still do run the risk of little dots instead of a nice fine mist.

       

      Jerry

       

      Quite true, I do the same, either set the can in a hot water bath or warm them on the oil fill heater for 15-20 min before use, makes a nice smooth spray and seems to help with the pressure as well.  But it still doesn't stop the cans from plugging up.

       

    • April 23, 2020 9:08 AM EDT
    • FWIW, I try to never use spray can paint if the can is cold (define that as you like).  I have even put spray cans in slightly warm water from the sink to warm them up.

      I found that this would improve the spray pattern, making it finer for model / weathering, but you still do run the risk of little dots instead of a nice fine mist.

       

      Jerry

    • April 23, 2020 6:54 AM EDT
    • One of the things I dislike about rustoleum spray bombs is that you can no longer turn the can upside down to clear the nozzle before storing. I used to use cans of black and white to do my airbrake stenciling on passenger cars. I would use a small amount of paint  then store. every time the nozzles were plugged the next time out. I did send a note to rustoleum and they did send me a bag of nozzles.

       

      Still using an airbrush

       

      Al P.

    • April 23, 2020 6:43 AM EDT
    • Rick Marty said:

      Yea, Rust-Oleum paints, in my opinion, are pretty crappy for model work especially the 2X stuff.  Sure it works great on Patio furniture but puts out way too much paint for model work. Kyrlon is not any better in there 2X spray, again just too much paint coming out of the nozzle for model work.  I have been moving toward cheap store brands, because they skimp on the paint pigment and you get a finer/lighter coat of paint.

      If it says wait 48 hours before re-coat then wait 48 hours, better yet wait 60 hours depending on temp and humidity.

      I have almost given up on Ripoff-Oleums paints.  In the past couple of years I have probably returned 20 cans to Home Depot because they quit spraying after a single use and sit on the shelf for a month or two.  Yes, I know how to clear the nozzle and pull it off and soak in solvent to unplug it, but why in hell should I have to do that.  When I buy a can of paint I mark it with the date so I know how old the paint is.  I have some cheap hardware store brands in the cabinet that are 6-7 years old and still work fine.  

       

      The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers.  They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don't clog up.

       

      Doubt if this helped you much but it let me unload on something that has been p-----g me off for a long while.

      I have thrown out several cans of Rustolium, It doesn't matter how much I shake them. I even tried shaking them between passes when spraying, but they still clog up on me, sometimes in the middle of my first use of a can. I prefer Krylon, I very seldom have issues with Krylon. As for a second coat, I usually apply a second coat within an hour of the first coat. If I am masking off an applying a second colour, then I do wait 2 days at a minimum before applying the second coat. Also, I make sure and apply thin coats so they can dry all the way through. A thick coat will not dry as fast, and will react to the next coat of paint if its applied too soon.

       

      As for the cheaper off brands, I have used some that work well, and I have used some that, well, just don't cover, or don't give a nice even coat of paint.

    • April 23, 2020 12:20 AM EDT
    • Rick Marty said:

      Yea, Rust-Oleum paints, in my opinion, are pretty crappy for model work especially the 2X stuff.  Sure it works great on Patio furniture but puts out way too much paint for model work. Kyrlon is not any better in there 2X spray, again just too much paint coming out of the nozzle for model work.  I have been moving toward cheap store brands, because they skimp on the paint pigment and you get a finer/lighter coat of paint.

      If it says wait 48 hours before re-coat then wait 48 hours, better yet wait 60 hours depending on temp and humidity.

      I have almost given up on Ripoff-Oleums paints.  In the past couple of years I have probably returned 20 cans to Home Depot because they quit spraying after a single use and sit on the shelf for a month or two.  Yes, I know how to clear the nozzle and pull it off and soak in solvent to unplug it, but why in hell should I have to do that.  When I buy a can of paint I mark it with the date so I know how old the paint is.  I have some cheap hardware store brands in the cabinet that are 6-7 years old and still work fine.  

       The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers.  They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don't clog up.

       Doubt if this helped you much but it let me unload on something that has been p-----g me off for a long while.

       

      Ironically I moved away from some cheap spray paints that work well but the colours are limited. 

      The Rustoleum paints had the colours that I wanted to use which is why I bought them.

       

    • April 22, 2020 11:35 PM EDT
    • Yea, Rust-Oleum paints, in my opinion, are pretty crappy for model work especially the 2X stuff.  Sure it works great on Patio furniture but puts out way too much paint for model work. Kyrlon is not any better in there 2X spray, again just too much paint coming out of the nozzle for model work.  I have been moving toward cheap store brands, because they skimp on the paint pigment and you get a finer/lighter coat of paint.

      If it says wait 48 hours before re-coat then wait 48 hours, better yet wait 60 hours depending on temp and humidity.

      I have almost given up on Ripoff-Oleums paints.  In the past couple of years I have probably returned 20 cans to Home Depot because they quit spraying after a single use and sit on the shelf for a month or two.  Yes, I know how to clear the nozzle and pull it off and soak in solvent to unplug it, but why in hell should I have to do that.  When I buy a can of paint I mark it with the date so I know how old the paint is.  I have some cheap hardware store brands in the cabinet that are 6-7 years old and still work fine.  

       

      The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers.  They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don't clog up.

       

      Doubt if this helped you much but it let me unload on something that has been p-----g me off for a long while.

    • April 22, 2020 10:57 PM EDT
    • I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

      I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

      I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

      The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

      Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

    • April 23, 2020 2:44 PM EDT
    • Hi John :

      I think I found something close to what I need . USA Trains model R22-12 . It's 5/8 '' longer and axle to axle length is about 1'' longer but I think I can make it work. It might be an issue on curves but I wont know until I try. Wheels are exactly the same size.

      Thank's again for trying to help me . PLEASE BE SAFE

      Bob 

    • April 23, 2020 11:05 AM EDT
    • I was afraid of that, re OcCre.

      We've seen a couple of builds, but have no connection to parts here.

      We do a lot of 'scratch building' here and cross use isn't new.

      I think you'll need to search via OcCre.

      Good Luck

    • April 23, 2020 3:37 AM EDT
    • Hi John :

      Thanks for getting back to me . The model is made by OcCre , and is the San Francisco cable car. I don't want to use any part of the truck. I want to replace it with a motorized truck. I only put the picture in for reference to show how much space I have for the motor block. The wheels are 29 mm   (no flange ) . I'm not sure Bachmann will help me because this is 1.24 . I've seen the motor blocks on line but I can't get any specs. USA Trains has them for their diesels but I cant get any measurements. I know you guys are far better informed than I am and I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction. 

      Thank's for any help you can give

      Bob

      PLEASE BE SAFE EVERY0NE   

    • April 22, 2020 11:47 PM EDT
    • Apparently we need more details to spark our memories.

      Do you have a name for what you have, who made your trolley?

      That truck doesn't look sturdy enough to handle torque, but that's my opinion.

      Bachmann may have a powered axle you can hide within, search their parts catalog, G section (large scale), loco parts or trolley, rail car parts

       

      https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=66

       

      They are out of many items, but maybe you'll find something to make do, until knowledgeable folks give you real answers. 

      Good luck and stay healthy

    • April 22, 2020 8:11 PM EDT
    • Hello everyone :

      I hope I'm in the right forum. I want to replace this truck with a power truck and I hope you guy's will help me . I just got a 1.24 scale trolley model and I want to power it. The height is 45 mm from rail and the length is 60 mm between the axles. I can't find any specs on line and I'm hoping you guy's can help me find one. I would also like a second unpowered truck if possible. Any leads would be really helpful.

      Thanks everyone

      Bob   

    • April 23, 2020 8:30 AM EDT
    • "High luster polish wheels"????? I'm intrigued.  Like Peter, I've used my fair share of Brasso, Never Dull, Ketchup and Fitz.  Unfamiliar with the "high Luster Polish wheels".  Where do you find them?   

    • April 22, 2020 10:55 AM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Sorry John. I wasn't trying to make anyone quit. I didn't intend to frustrate anyone. I was just trying to offer a useful trick that I use. But you know, thread drift, and other factors, sometimes make me regret trying.

      I only meant adding to this list.

      As a bench jeweler, we favored the blue wheels because they polish prong settings nicely and don't leave scratches (on the stones)

      i saw no need to go backwards to a 'crude' (say 50 years since introduction) bright boy, when tarnish is an easy  foe.

      That's all ... 

    • April 22, 2020 9:59 AM EDT
    • John Caughey said:
      Bill Barnwell said:

      Yep, but everything scratches even polishing compound, it's the size of the scratch that matters

       

      Yup, so why not go finer?

      That is the trick

      Eve Square Edge Pumice Wheels 22 x 3mm High Luster Polishing Wheel ...

      High luster polish wheels....

       

    • April 22, 2020 8:13 AM EDT
    • Sorry John. I wasn't trying to make anyone quit. I didn't intend to frustrate anyone. I was just trying to offer a useful trick that I use. But you know, thread drift, and other factors, sometimes make me regret trying.