Here are the threads that I used when fitting my Kadee couplers -

I used the aforementioned George Schreyer Shay section titled "Body Mounting Kadee Couplers" for my 1908/1835 center set coupler installation.

There is also this link - http://forums.mylargescale.com/21-rolling-stock/28110-coupler-question.html

This is a valuable link that contains much useful information - http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/18097/restoring-a-1st-gen-bachman-sha/view/page/1

Thanks everyone! It turned out that the screw had been replaced and stripped. With effort and a modified screwdriver on a grinder, the whole tank came off with little problem. There was a liberal about of hot glue used to hold the NiCad batteries in place but some contact cleaning did the trick and I was up and running. 

When I get to a good WiFi connection to Upload to YouTube please check it out and be kind about the missing front coupler  !!

Neil

That center off momentary switch is what is used to control the volume on some sound boards.

Mark - I suspected as much. The rear light bracket is in the way and I couldn’t see that last screw. Hope that’s it!

Tbank you, thank you!

Neil:

Have you looked at the 6th page of the Bachmann Shay diagram, Tender Assembly?  On mine, you remove the ladder (if so equipped) and the cover for the water fill and the screw that is inside.  Then, ever so gently, lift up the back while pushing the tank slightly forward towards the cab.  Don't do it too hard as the two plastic tabs on the front of the tank might shear off; it's the famous "don't ask how I know".  Mine is an 81196 so I think that makes it a 36 ton Shay and I assume that the removal will be similar for yours.

Also, I found most of what I needed on the Bachmann Shay Tips on George Schreyer's invaluable site for dealing with the trucks.

Greg;

This does not seem to address the tank removal. I should have noted that this engine was converted to battery power around 2008/9 and the batteries in the tank do not seem to be taking a charge. 

It also has a switch to go from charging to run that appears to be working but also has a double throw, center off, momentary switch that I cannot figure out what it controls. It is located below the lumber load in the tank so, needless to say, the tank must come off. 

Thanks for your help!

perhaps this will help:

https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/bachmann-motive-power/shay

Jim Rowson said:

What kind of Shay? Bachmann? 2 or 3 truck?

 

I had some struggles getting to various things on my 3-truck Bachmann Shay, and you might find this topic (link) about fixing a bad solder joint useful. Maybe.

 

Good luck! They are very clever about hiding the screws and such.

They certainly were clever. I cannot find the last screw! This is the two-truck Shay. Thanks.  

What kind of Shay? Bachmann? 2 or 3 truck?

I had some struggles getting to various things on my 3-truck Bachmann Shay, and you might find this topic (link) about fixing a bad solder joint useful. Maybe.

Good luck! They are very clever about hiding the screws and such.

Anybody have trouble getting the tank off the Shay? I don’t see a way to remove the trucks but don’t see any screws under them either. The water hatch has a screw below but there is something I’m missing. 

Neiler

Ok. Replacing the POT may not solve the issue. But, I have seen where a damaged pot caused distortion to the sound, because the pot had an open in it and so it changed the characteristics of the amplifier circuit.

Supposedly Massoth sells the LGB boards, if you want to just replace the whole sound system.

David:  I don't follow your logic path. A volume control controls volume of sound. It does not control quality, content or characteristics of sound.

If the POT (volume control) is bad, then why not just replace that? A bad POT could really mess up the sound it was supposed to control.

Progress report:

(1) I have determined that the cable from the loco and its female connector are OK as well as the male connector on the tender.

(2) Regarding the volume control, I found there is a 'dead spot' when the volume control knob is set at maximum volume. Setting the control knob half way between max and min allows for 'sound' to be heard; BUT, the sound is horrible. Sounds like a blast of generic radio static noise. The horrible sound matches whistle start up sound timing as well as the chuff timing but isn't anything similar to normal sounds. I tried connecting the sound output to a different speaker - same terrible noise. A magnet well activate the reed switch module under the front tender axle; but, the whistle is just a blast of static. The bell is somewhat recognizable but definitely not any kind of bell you have ever heard!

So - any suggestions? Is there a sound generator microprocessor that may be bad?

Thanks for any help and comments.

Roger Bush

Roger, it is most likely one of the 3 wires used for the chuff sensing on the cable between the engine and tender.  The 3 wires on the rightmost side of the ender are for chuff  (power, ground, signal)

the 3 left wires are 2 for track power and one for the rear light on coal tenders.

I would check the wiring going from the locomotive to the tender. The wires broke on mine, but the insulation was in tact, so the connector looked good. Once I repaired the connector I had sounds again.

I have a 23182 Mogul whose sound board does not funtion starting just this week. There is occasionaly a pssst pssst sound (two 'words') when loco is reversed from standing position. Otherwise no sound of any kind. All switches on loco and tender are in correct positions. Volume control set at maximum. Loco is running on track power.

How should I go about making an analysis of the problem? I have a multimeter and am a little bit familiar with very basic electricity.

Are replacement sound boards available anywhere?

This was my first LGB loco and have had it for 20 years. Hate to lose an old friend.

Roger Bush

Ruidoso  NM

Dave that is what I was thinking and I'll just try it when I get the part, this question is plan  " B "..

Greg my thoughts as well , so I will try it like I said to David.. then try to place a thin piece of styrene on top under Eric's piece ..we'll see..

I have to pull one apart, but wouldn't smoke leak out those slots?

Why? Would it hurt to leave it as is?