John Lenheiser said:

I just repainted an LGB 4075 Drovers Caboose and will re-letter to my RR the FT. Worth & South-Western. I used the X2 for the first time, I usually use an airbrush 90% of the time. The paint went on perfect, I first sprayed a light coat from a distance of about 12" in fact I sprayed all my coats at about that distance, closer can cause runs real fast. I let the light coat dry about 2 mins., then sprayed another light coat and let it dry for about another 2 mins., then in another 2-3 mins. it got the last coat, a little wetter then the other two, the paint flowed out like glass and I was done. The paint covered well and was pretty dry to touch in an hour or so, but I will probably let it dry for three days, just because that's what I normally do on final coats. There's no need for more coats, you are just putting on paint that is not need and you will cover up the detail in the plastic and your model becomes a blob of paint and you loose the look of the model. Do note here, I spray outside with no wind and the temp was around 88 degrees, I spray in sunlight so the sides I'm painting I can see how the paint is going on, in other words I hold the car in one hand and the paint can in the other. I can now rotate the model as needed and see how the paint is covering the car, thus I get a very uniform paint job and any dry spots will be seen in the sunlight. Don't forget the rotate the model in your hand, you need to be able to see where the paint is going, that is in the cracks, around window openings, and all areas where things stick out and need to be painted on all sides. I will say one thing here, yes I have a paint booth and I find it the worst place to paint models of this size, you can get very little rotation of the model and with a model of G scale size you really need it. I'm using the spray cans more and more on my G scale stuff, I find in easier and faster then a air brush, as long as I can get the colors I need in spray cans. I will post some pics when I get the car fully done, probably in a week or so. By putting on the coats pretty much one after another you will find the paint when somewhat still wet will re-flow it's self and then you may see some dry spots disappear in a min. or so they can become glossy, just don't keep adding coats to correct a dry spot, see if it will flow out and remember the paint shrinks as it dry, causing a different look. 

trainman

Yep ...that is what I was saying

I just repainted an LGB 4075 Drovers Caboose and will re-letter to my RR the FT. Worth & South-Western. I used the X2 for the first time, I usually use an airbrush 90% of the time. The paint went on perfect, I first sprayed a light coat from a distance of about 12" in fact I sprayed all my coats at about that distance, closer can cause runs real fast. I let the light coat dry about 2 mins., then sprayed another light coat and let it dry for about another 2 mins., then in another 2-3 mins. it got the last coat, a little wetter then the other two, the paint flowed out like glass and I was done. The paint covered well and was pretty dry to touch in an hour or so, but I will probably let it dry for three days, just because that's what I normally do on final coats. There's no need for more coats, you are just putting on paint that is not need and you will cover up the detail in the plastic and your model becomes a blob of paint and you loose the look of the model. Do note here, I spray outside with no wind and the temp was around 88 degrees, I spray in sunlight so the sides I'm painting I can see how the paint is going on, in other words I hold the car in one hand and the paint can in the other. I can now rotate the model as needed and see how the paint is covering the car, thus I get a very uniform paint job and any dry spots will be seen in the sunlight. Don't forget the rotate the model in your hand, you need to be able to see where the paint is going, that is in the cracks, around window openings, and all areas where things stick out and need to be painted on all sides. I will say one thing here, yes I have a paint booth and I find it the worst place to paint models of this size, you can get very little rotation of the model and with a model of G scale size you really need it. I'm using the spray cans more and more on my G scale stuff, I find in easier and faster then a air brush, as long as I can get the colors I need in spray cans. I will post some pics when I get the car fully done, probably in a week or so. By putting on the coats pretty much one after another you will find the paint when somewhat still wet will re-flow it's self and then you may see some dry spots disappear in a min. or so they can become glossy, just don't keep adding coats to correct a dry spot, see if it will flow out and remember the paint shrinks as it dry, causing a different look. 

trainman

I does sound like a lot of work, especially since I don't have to go through all of that effort with Krylon paints. I use the Krylon paints till all of the usable paint in the can is exhausted. Sometimes I will open up an empty Krylon can to put the last bit into a glass paint bottle for use later, but often times there isn't enough left in the can to make it worth the effort.

Around here there is a discount store called Ollie's. I picked up a few cans of Krylon there for a couple of bucks each. One of the cans was taller then normal, and labeled to have 33% more paint in it for the same price.

I use a lot of Rustoleum paint in my Antique car restoration Work. Their etch primer sprays excellent and so far, has not reacted to any base/clear coat paint we’ve used. I used to have problems getting full use of a can but started doing the following with all cans, primers and colors. I heat a bowl of water up hot, not warm. While it’s heating shake the car for no less than two minutes. Once the ball is moving very freely and noisy, I put it in the hot water. I leave it in the water for a while wanting the metal can to feel hot when I put my hand on it. I then shake it again for over a minute again, then return it to the water. Leave it for a minute or so, shake it for 30 seconds then spray it in very light coats trying to keep a wet edge. I have found since doing this, I have emptied every single can without one clogging or failure to spray issue. I know it sounds like a lot of work but it’s worked so far. Part of the issue is the propellants they have to use now and how the can pressurizes as your spraying. The hot water seems to help this. I have been having the same problem with brake and carburetor cleaner cans that stop spraying with the can half full. When I complained to my auto parts guy and took two $6 cans back he took one and rapped it on the edge of his counter, denting in the side. It then continued spraying. He told me it’s a propellant issue vs. the amount of pressure they’re allowed to put in a can for shipping purposes. Denting the can in decreases the internal dimensions. This is his theory but they both sprayed after doing it.

When it comes to spraying my RC model planes I only use Klasskote two part epoxy paints. It’s a small business that caters to the modeling industry even though their main business is industrial paints. He has many stock colors and does custom blending. All are basically flats if I remember rigGT but he has clear top coats in different finishes. I apply all of them with an airbrush. I’m sure many of his paints could be used in our hobby.

So Today I went to my LHS to get a can of metallic green paint for a non RR project. after bringing it home I noticed that Tester's is now part of Rustoleum. degrading one of the  last bastion of model paint. it would stil clear the nozzle when flipped over but that probably will not last long.

Al P.

very neat

There you go Rooster.

This is a bash of an LGB Stainz into an Australian type sugar cane tank engine.

It is not finished (its been relegated to the back burner while the layout is being worked on) but this part is painted in acrylic car touchup paint. 

The blemishes are to simulate rusting metal under the paint (these locos lived a very tough life with no love given to them from the crews)

The inside of the cabin and the smoke stack were done in el Cheapo ($3.50) enamel rattle cans.

The smoke stack is made from a probiotic drink container (brand is known as Yakult here) a piece of plastic hose fitting and the original Stainz mounting.

From my experience I will never use Rustoleum ever again they were a sheer waste of my money.

I do not post pictures on here very often as I find it such a laborious time consuming process.

John Lenheiser said:

Rooster said:

GAP said:

I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

 

 Just wanted to complement you on a very nicely done model, too bad you had a paint mess up, it happens to all of us, myself several times. I use spray rattle cans paint on most of my G scale modeling. I usually paint as I said in a previous post all my painting is done at one time, first a light cover coat and then a wet coat and no need for another coat in a day or so, remember you will in most cases be either have to put on a clear coat for decaling and then a dull coat for final to get your model to a nice finished look. So when it comes to paint the coat I want to be the best is the final dullcoat, it can and does cover up many imperfection on your model. Once again, great job, did that start out as a LGB combine. 

 

trainman

 

My first try with Rust-Oleum  2X ...the texture is there because I left the dust on (as I usually do) . She was christened and put too sea a year ago..http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/29063/cvrr-electric-motor-car-15?page=1

The stuff don't like heavy coats even if you think you are putting it on lightly. Scale coat rattle can was the same.

 

You have pictures of GAPS model as I have not seen them myself  ?

Rooster said:

GAP said:

I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

 

 Just wanted to complement you on a very nicely done model, too bad you had a paint mess up, it happens to all of us, myself several times. I use spray rattle cans paint on most of my G scale modeling. I usually paint as I said in a previous post all my painting is done at one time, first a light cover coat and then a wet coat and no need for another coat in a day or so, remember you will in most cases be either have to put on a clear coat for decaling and then a dull coat for final to get your model to a nice finished look. So when it comes to paint the coat I want to be the best is the final dullcoat, it can and does cover up many imperfection on your model. Once again, great job, did that start out as a LGB combine. 

 

trainman

 

My first try with Rust-Oleum  2X ...the texture is there because I left the dust on (as I usually do) . She was christened and put too sea a year ago..http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/29063/cvrr-electric-motor-car-15?page=1

The stuff don't like heavy coats even if you think you are putting it on lightly. Scale coat rattle can was the same.

Back to the original posters question even after re-reading twice as recommended.

GAP said:

I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

My first try with Rust-Oleum  2X ...the texture is there because I left the dust on (as I usually do) . She was christened and put too sea a year ago..http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/29063/cvrr-electric-motor-car-15?page=1

The stuff don't like heavy coats even if you think you are putting it on lightly. Scale coat rattle can was the same.

Rooster said:

John Lenheiser said:

 I'm a retired body shop mgr. for a large DFW auto dealer and after 35 at one dealership I have a good idea on painting. Remember, paint is an art and you learn from experience, if I cab answer any question, I would be glad to help with your painting needs. 

trainman

Yes,  Paint is an art ....can you explain why scale coat (rattle cans)  cure in the cold but not the heat?  I learned from experience on that one!

I've never used Scale Coat in a spray can, only used it in an airbrush, don't know about your experiences with cold weather and drying times, I only paint in warn weather conditions and low humidity.

trainman

"Paint is an art" - You sure got that right.  I started in the late 60's as a teenager painting cars in an oil change bay of a Texaco station near Buffalo, NY. My boss was a real hack and he loved enamel auto paint. My first spray job was a "Rangoon Red" mustang and half way through the side panels it began to run. My boss said "just keep laying it on until it's all one big run". I did and it sagged like crazy right off the bottom of the rocker panels. Boss said "no worries, when it dries we'll cut it off" and by gum, we did

I was a Krylon fan for years and I prefer even the newer formula Krylon over other brands, but I've not tried them all.  Years ago my mentor at work brought in his High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) spray system.  His gun was buggered, but it was easy to use when it worked. I convinced my boss to purchase an Earlex HVLP system and have been using it for 3 or 4 years now and love it. It will spray acrylics, but I much prefer oil based paints for the finer droplets and ease of clean up. Paint thinner works MUCH better on oil based paint than soap & water on acrylics.

Oil based paints are hard to find, but still out there. My preferred oil based paint is Rustoleum. Many of their colors can be thinned with Acetone for a nice quick flash time. If it doesn't say on the label to use Acetone, I thin with VM&P Naptha which flashes faster then generic paint thinner. I can't get pure Mineral Spirits any more, only Paint Thinner made with mineral spirits & who knows what else.  I do wear a professional NOSH Respirator when painting using anything other than water based acrylics.

And after over 50 years, I still consider myself an amateur.

John Lenheiser said:

 I'm a retired body shop mgr. for a large DFW auto dealer and after 35 at one dealership I have a good idea on painting. Remember, paint is an art and you learn from experience, if I cab answer any question, I would be glad to help with your painting needs. 

trainman

Yes,  Paint is an art ....can you explain why scale coat (rattle cans)  cure in the cold but not the heat?  I learned from experience on that one!

Bill Barnwell said:

... My preferred paint is Krylon being as it is fast drying, virtually  run free, and a plethora of colors available, found to spray very even and with a good mist spray, ... 

  Although not having the advantage of having been an auto body shop manager I have been modeling for over 65 years and mostly use rattle cans. When I started pretty much all that was available was Testors small glass bottles and paint brushes but for plastic models and HO trains it worked great of course that was back when I had steady hands and all the time in the world. Moving on trains got bigger and time became valuable so hence rattle cans came into my life. My preferred paint is Krylon being as it is fast drying, virtually  run free, and a plethora of colors available, found to spray very even and with a good mist spray, just remember I'm speaking of yesterday's paint as they too have changed to meet the new day. Most paints now come with primer in them which is not ideal for models as it makes the paint thicker and hides detail. Also most spray cans have changed their form of paint pick up so one can not turn the can upside down and spray to clear the nozzle, often winds up with a half full can becoming useless. I have found that rustoleum to be thick, sprays like a fire hose and runs easily, Ace seems to be better and supposedly made by Krylon, Lowes was carrying a Valspar ultra mist that was very good but lately have been unable to find. You can find some great spray cans at automotive supply shops but most are lacquer base which reacts with plastic and usually come in small cans. I have used air brushes before but now pretty much just weather with it being as my hands are no longer rock steady. Important things I have found in my journey is don't spray lacquer base over oil base, if it says wait 2 days between coats, do so, don't use paint with primer included and never paint on a humid day, and light coats are better than heavy ones, just my thoughts, Bill  

Being a model railroader for some 30 plus years I have always used enamel or lacquer paints, mainly Scale Coat, or Floquil. These paint companies have gone out of business in the past years, mainly due to EPA rules and regulations. Water base paints for models is pretty much junk and just don't give the finish I want on my models. Today I still spray many of my models with enamel/lacquer paints and use an airbrush, but these paints are getting harder to find as the EPA is also having Testors and other paint manufactures due away with these paints. One paint I have been using is the Model Masters by Testors in the spray can, sold at Hobby Lobby and hobby shop, sells for around $6.00 per can, these paint spray very well and one can is enough for one engine, or rolling stock. I also use the paint sold at auto parts stores, but most colors are going to be colors for autos, these paints do also spray very well out of the can. I'm also using the Krylon from Home Depot, the cheap stuff, not the higher price cans for outside use, or special use, remember were painting plastic train engines here, not outdoor furniture, I do use the Krylon primers with good results. I would like to say one thing here, I feel many are painting their engine, etc. wrong when it comes to coats of paint, I usually primer my engines, parts, etc. to be painted, but not always is primer needed, many times I paint right on the plastic parts, yes you should test the paint on another plastic part, or on an underside and make sure it will not craze the plastic. Next I do tape off each color to be painted, this way I'm not adding too much paint to the model, too much paint is just looking for a cracking, or crazing problem, plus too much paint hides detail. Last I would like to say about coats of paint, what's with paint one day with first coats and then a second day with more paint, do you think you get a better job, no you just get more build up with paint that is not need, there are models, not your patio chairs. Here is how I apply paint, I spray a light cover coat on the model and let set for a minute or two, look at how it covered, yes it will have thin sports, I now apply the second coat, a little wetter then the first coat, let it set for another two, or three minutes and look at the model in sunlight, I do paint outside most of the time on non winds days. At this point I am either happy with the coverage, or it gets another coat, most of the time I have got it covered in two coats. If your waiting for the first coat to dry and then repainting, your just adding paint that is not needed and covering up detail, I can tell you, more paint is not better. This way all my coats of paint are drying all at one time and the paint shrinks as it would in one drying coat. I don't know everything about painting models, but painting model for 30 plus years I got a pretty good idea of what works and how to get the best job I can and having to redue a paint job is no fun. I'm a retired body shop mgr. for a large DFW auto dealer and after 35 at one dealership I have a good idea on painting. Remember, paint is an art and you learn from experience, if I cab answer any question, I would be glad to help with your painting needs. 

trainman

Dave Meashey said:

John;

 

I think the Pike's Peak rack locomotives were a form of Vauclain compound.  (Named for Samuel Vauclain, the chief design engineer for Baldwin Locomotive Works around the turn of the 20th century.)  The low pressure cylinder was mounted above the high pressure cylinder, and the valve chest was behind those two.  Vauclain compounds were high maintenance machines, and somewhat finnicky runners.  The system may have worked acceptably for rack operations, as there was very little speed involved.

 

Best Wishes, David Meashey 

You are correct. 

The number on the motor block 22460 designated this one.

Thanks all for the help.  The knowledge base here is fantastic.  The loco was indeed built by George Konrad and I have been in contact with him.  The loco has a single cog wheel.

George built 5 of these locomotives,  Four of which were were a basic detail and one (this one) had a lot more detail in the number of cylinders an other items.

It is indeed a model of a Pikes Peak locomotive and used a stock LGB model as its starting point,

Anyone have an idea of the LGB model used as the starting point?

Thanks

Stan