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    • March 19, 2017 11:30 AM EDT
    • Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it.

       

      Shane

       

    • March 19, 2017 11:08 AM EDT
    • Shane

      Michael has it right I removed the ones on my gp40 same thing as the sd45 but even with patience i broke one but was able to glue it back.

      cheers 

      Richard

    • March 19, 2017 11:01 AM EDT
    • Shane

       

      The front intake grilles are brass, and have three small tabs on either vertical segment. The tabs are not bent over, simply pushed in. I remove them with an Xacto #11 on the back side and gently work it into the corners of both horizontal edges. Patience will garner and undamaged grille.

       

      Michael

    • March 18, 2017 7:51 PM EDT
    • Some of the Aristo stuff have tabs that are bent over in the shell. You would see that. I have not worked on these.

    • March 18, 2017 7:10 PM EDT
    • Has anyone removed the front vents on an SD45? I think the frame on each side of the vent is metal (green arrows), and I'm guessing it is pressed into the body. Before I wreck something trying to remove it, I'm hoping somebody knows a little more then I do.

       

    • March 10, 2017 10:00 PM EST
    • Tony, Greg, Stan,
      Great information!
      I think it will run fine w/o replacing that part, hopefully!
      Thanks for explaining it so it could be understood so easily.
      Definitely gives us some reassurance.
      Appreciate all the help!
      Ken

    • March 10, 2017 6:45 PM EST
    • Nonpolarized caps can blow too, just from being cheap or underrated.

      As Stan and Tony have said, normally once these short circuit, the heat vaporizes the conductive path, and the short is gone for good.

      Greg

    • March 10, 2017 4:56 PM EST
    • Some (as in a few) of the Spectrum 4-4-0 and 2-6-0 locos had one or more 47 mfd electrolytic caps soldered in the wrong way around on the "noise" suppression pcb mounted on the end of the motor. The locos would run just fine in one direction but not the other. A cap would blow exactly like has happened now. Then, once the magic smoke had been released and the cap was out of the circuit, they would come good and run as per normal.

      However, if that particular loco had at one stage performed properly in both directions, it is a trifle unusual for a cap to blow now.

    • March 10, 2017 4:11 PM EST
    • Stan, Greg,
      Thanks so much!
      I guess my next question is why would that part/s burn out and nothing else? Is it possible they were soldered improperly or just a bad part that overheated?
      Ken

    • March 10, 2017 1:54 PM EST
    • Look at the end of the motor where the noise caps are soldered, if one blew up (a good guess) it would look burned or exploded.

      Greg

    • March 10, 2017 10:18 AM EST
    • Ken

       

      From the location you describe, it is likely the motor area

       

      I believe there is a set of capacitors and inductors in this area for motor RF suppression.

       

      My best guess it that you burned up a capacitor  If so you will not see any difference.

       

      Stan

    • March 10, 2017 5:12 AM EST
    • Hi,
      In my preparations for the upcoming train show in Helena, Montana in April, I pulled out our Bachmann Spectrum, Eureka And Palisade 4-4-0 to lubricate and test run so kids can operate it at this show. I am using an MRC THROTTLEPACK 9950 on our small one track train layout and had no other cars, engines, switches (12 × 16 foot oval only) or shorts anywhere on the layout.
      I have the regular DC positive and negative wires with a 4 amp (manufacturer suggested) in line fuse on one wire.
      The power pack was set on G scale and has never had any previous issues.
      I decided to test run the locomotive first, however upon application of power it blew the fuse 3 times in a row.
      I then checked and double checked the track, locomotive and wiring to no avail.
      I could not find anything wrong, not even a derailed set of wheels. (The locomotive was the only item on the track)
      After careful inspection and checking all the settings, I attempted to reapply power and heard a very loud pop and observed heavy smoke coming from the bottom and front of the main drive. (especially between the 2 main drive wheels)
      I automatically assumed the worst, that the motor had burned out and the locomotive was a complete loss.
      Now, here's the kicker! I tried reapplying power and the locomotive ran perfectly fine. There was no hesitation, additional amp draw, loss of feature (like lighting and smoke) and no loss of power.
      The locomotive continues to run perfectly without any further issues. There isn't even any electrical smell or melted plastic anywhere.
      I have never experienced anything so odd as this, so I wanted to bring the subject up to the forum and see if anyone here has ever had this experience with this locomotive (or others) or had any technical knowledge of the cause.
      Also why does the engine continues to run and is there a potential for further issues down the road? These engines are a bear to dismantle and I would hope it wouldn't be necessary.
      I don't know if there is a DCC board in that section of the drive that may have burned up or something else that has no direct effect on the operation of the locomotive.
      Maybe someone has taken one of these locomotives apart and knows more about this issue.
      I know a lot of folks who understand electronics may know what happened.
      I have some knowledge but this one is a little beyond me.
      Appreciate any help or info.
      Thanks! Ken
      Imagination Station Kids On Track

    • March 8, 2017 8:30 AM EST
    • Note there is a Trainli section at the ads and announcements that I monitor daily.

    • March 8, 2017 6:37 AM EST
    • Hey, alright! LSC doing those things it does so well

    • March 8, 2017 1:44 AM EST
    • Dan,

      Called today and spoke to Axel.  He was most helpful, and he was able to source both my immediate repair parts and few of the detail parts that have fallen off over the years.  To boot, he sent me the diagrams for the rest of my fleet, so I can ID other issues and get the rest of the old girls looking good again.

      I know we did not get a chance to speak, but this proved a very positive experience for me, so thanks for taking the time to respond to my post.

      Aloha,

      Eric

    • March 4, 2017 4:57 PM EST
    • Got it, Dan!  Mahalo (thanks)!

      - Eric

    • March 4, 2017 8:49 AM EST
    • Note time difference is 5 hours.  I am East coast USA.

    • March 4, 2017 8:47 AM EST
    • Be sure to go to the trainli.com site and also modell-land.de for part availability.  Modell-land prices are in euros and we order batch lots approx. every 6-8 weeks.

    • March 5, 2017 8:15 AM EST
    • Answered in another thread, and this screw on the axle is very special and readily available as I do have several in my stock of screws and these are available from trainli.com. 

    • March 5, 2017 3:06 AM EST
    • Oh dear, wish I could help you. At least I can say that at least one person has seen your post. I'd expect the screw threads would be metric based.

      Would it be possible if one dares the risk to take a similar screw from another wheel to a machine shop to see what the people there might chance to know?