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    • July 20, 2017 4:14 AM EDT
    • i'd prefer the sound coming from the loco, syncronized exactly to the drivers down to the piston stroke, and I have gotten 4" speakers in tenders and 2" in the boiler.


      you asked for opinions, my way would be more realistic and coming from the loco...


      but sounds like you have your mind made up... so to run your train, instead of just a simple power supply you have to have your phone running and then send sound from your phone to your stereo, and all this needs to be on...





    • July 19, 2017 9:28 PM EDT
    • Sound will be Bluetooth to the living room stereo equipment directly under the display. I'll get better sound using that equipment than a small speaker in the tender.

    • July 19, 2017 9:24 PM EDT
    • Why do you need a wireless control system without sound?


      I'd set up normal track power, add an inexpensive sound system like a Dallee and call it a day. Use a cheap transformer like the easily available MRC 6200... no batteries, easy to power the coaches, etc.



    • July 19, 2017 4:46 PM EDT
    • I propose to use a "BlueRail" bluetooth control to activate the engine.

      Nothing wrong with that, apart from the lack of sound.  The Bluerail receiver will shut down if you try to overload it - which seems unlikely in your case.


    • July 19, 2017 3:25 PM EDT
    • I'm a brand new G-Scale equipment owner.  I'm in the process of setting up a static display with operating engine and lighted passenger coaches.

      I don't understand all I know about electricity.  I'm displaying a Bachmann "Emma Nevada" G-Scale locomotive, two Jackson Sharp passenger cars and a Bachmann long caboose.  I want to use live track with the engine drive wheels jacked so there is no friction. Power for the engine is through the tender. This is what I know about the engine's power requirements:  Starting voltage is actually a little high on this engine, with the wheels not beginning to turn until around four volts. This is so the internal electronics (lights and chuff sensors) are powered up and functioning before the locomotive begins to move. When it does start, it draws about half an amp. With the wheels slipping, the motor draws 1.9 amps and, stalled, it draws between 3 and 4 amps, depending on the voltage. Maximum speed at 13 volts is a sedate 20 scale mph, which increases to 30 scale mph at 20 volts.  I propose to use a "BlueRail" bluetooth control to activate the engine.  The "BlueRail" system operating range is between 9 and 24 volts.  Overload protection allows 8 amps for .4 sec, 4 amps for 1 sec, 2 amps for 15 secs continuous, and 1.2 amps continuously.  Since my engine will be operating in a "no-load" condition and drawing what I believe will be about half an amp, I'm looking for a power source with an on/off switch, voltage between 9  and 24 volts  and I only need and a current of less that 5 amps I think.

      Does anyone have any suggestions?


    • July 20, 2017 2:31 AM EDT
    • Now I have a reason to go to Las Vegas...scoot down to Reno!

    • June 28, 2017 10:10 AM EDT
    • Yes, 3 hours closer to Eric, but still a distance from San Diego.

    • July 18, 2017 10:40 PM EDT
    • The white spirits guys clearly did not do any research on the equivalent of lacquer thinner, all they apparently heard was "thinner"


      Also, often hobbyist thinners had Xylene or Toulene in them... REAL lacquer thinner does not. I thought I made this distinction before.


      I also have USED Floquil paints, from the first year they existed. (Although I have not used the acrylic version, did not want to)... I had an airbrush and thinned and cleaned with regular generic lacquer thinner.



    • July 18, 2017 8:45 PM EDT
    • Max Winter said:

       I have 2 1 oz jars that I bought in 2011.

      None of the info listed matters not if it wasn't stored properly for the past 6 + yrs

    • July 18, 2017 8:09 PM EDT
    • Glad you got a  line on something Max. Please come share your project when complete.

    • July 18, 2017 6:34 PM EDT
    • You have given me a great idea. I go down to the paint specialist, they do a colour analysis of one of the now spare d&rgw car sides ( I forgot they did that for me in the past). They produce 1 x rattle can of gloss cellulose 1 pack paint in the exact colour I need. Gets rid of the need to gloss coat prior to decal application (one less process to risk fouling things up). Problem solved. Thanks for getting my mind in gear lads. Max

    • July 18, 2017 5:15 PM EDT
    • The reason I came on here was in hope of getting the definitive version of what I need with regards to mixing this specific product. I had Googled prior to starting post and come up with the same sources. The problem was there was a load of conjecture there and a lack of cross over in terminology between US and UK thinning products. I don't like to make assumptions.


      I had worked out lacquer thinner and cellulose might be similar/one of the same as their principle ingredient is Toluene. However, I was not sure how Xylene might affect the mix. I also realized the picture is further clouded by the genesis of the "Floquil" product, down to the EPA and Testors efforts. I had hoped my product description would have nailed it down to a specific.


      No problem with access to exotic, and otherwise, chemicals and their properties in conjunction with plastics, resins, etc'. I've been a model builder for 30 years and have a good local specialist supplier, garnered from my days producing my own pre-painted model range for sale.


      Still confused here. I got two votes for cellulose base, two (one from UK) for a white spirit base. Looks like I'm going to have to do a test piece.


      If you wish take a look here, where I have managed to post pictures of the paint bottle

    • July 18, 2017 4:28 PM EDT
    • That's 2 votes for lacquer thinner...

    • July 18, 2017 4:21 PM EDT
    • Max

      That is from the old Floquil paint line (the good stuff). It is not an oil base paint it is a nitro-cellulose lacquer. You will need lacquer thinner to cut it down. Do not use enamel reducer, turpentine, mineral spirits, generic paint thinner or any of the current hobby thinners as they will react and turn it to goo. I used the Automotive Dupont NC paints on hotrods  and Floquil on HO trains 30 years ago. Great stuff but it is the enemy of all living things thus the reason the EPA drove Floquil out of business.


      Testors (the ones in the square bottles), Pactra and Humbrol are all oil based enamel. You can thin them with enamel reducer, mineral spirits or generic paint thinner from the DIY store. Don't use alcohol it has water in it. The new Testors Model Masters (in the round jars) are water based.


      If you are not to stuck on using the Floquil I recommend Valejo or Tamiya water based acrylic enamels. Both companies products will work with a brush or air-brush, both have an extensive line of colors, both are designed for model builders not arts and crafts grannies. Since you are in the UK you might want to consider Games Workshop. They are the best, high quality but high priced. < (It kills me to recommend GW because they are the most greedy conniving gits ever-but give the devil his due)


      If you are painting rolling stock or structures I suggest rattle can spray paint as your base. Most of us use Krylon or Rustoleum with great success. After you get the base color on use the hobby paints for details, aging and weathering.


      If you are still stuck on FLoquil here is what you need.

      Use Dupont 3608S(fast dry) for a flat finish or Dupont 3602S (slow dry) for a glossy finish. You can get these at auto paint suppliers. A quart will reduce that bottle ten times over with plenty left for clean up. If you cannot find it retail try sweet talking your local body shop into selling you a little.

      In use it will attack bare styrene. It will orange peel and / or lift enamel primers and paints that are not completely cured (about two weeks drying time). It is best used on brass. Start with a light coat and let that dry for several hours in the sun. Then come back adding light coats until you get coverage.


      I learned all of this by was a costly lesson. Unfortunately I had to repeat it several times before I got it through my thick skull. Summary: Lacquer dissolves plastic, other coatings and brain cells!!!! I hope you are a faster study than me but you know what they say... You are not truly a "Model Railroader" until you have screwed up and totally destroyed at least one very expensive model.


      Notice that warning on the label. No Joke on this one it is an outdoor toy.

    • July 18, 2017 4:14 PM EDT
    • Yes, I realized that, but it was part of the quote.


      If you smell solvent, then I would wager you do NOT have the acrylic based paint. Lacquer Thinner is a very refined and "Strong" version of paint thinner.


      Here's a link giving it a frame of reference in the UK:


      And here is the typical ingredients of (hobby)  lacquer thinner:  xylene or toluene-based general purpose solvent


      But further research usually indicates the generic lacquer thinner would be identified as cellulose thinner in the UK.


      Hope this helps (google is your friend also, besides me!)



    • July 18, 2017 3:47 PM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Found on the web:


      • If you have solvent based Floquil paints - Use lacquer thinner(you can get it at Home Depot or even Walmart).
      • If you are using acrylic Floquil Scale paint, use water(I use distilled water).

      I remember this paint, but used it before sold to Testors (and then rust-o-leum) ....

      how about pictures of the text on the bottle, might give better clues




      Greg, I'm based in the UK so Home Depot (UK equiv' B&Q) and Walmart (UK equiv' Tesco) are a bit far to go and "lacquer thinner" does not compute this side of the pond. As mentioned in my post the stuff I have has the Testors imprint along with Floquil's. I have no idea of its base but I think I smell a hint of white spirit (another language conversion requirement  ) But thanks anyway. Max





    • July 18, 2017 3:35 PM EDT
    • Thanks for the info. I have the required stock - 2 x 1 oz jars to do a piece the size of an AMS J&S car (Rio Grande models Pagosa combine kit on AMS base). Based on what you say I should be airbrushing using a fast drying enamel thinners, in my case made by a company called Phoenix Precision Paints over here. They specialize in UK railway model finishes. Max

    • July 18, 2017 3:34 PM EDT
    • Found on the web:


      • If you have solvent based Floquil paints - Use lacquer thinner(you can get it at Home Depot or even Walmart).
      • If you are using acrylic Floquil Scale paint, use water(I use distilled water).

      I remember this paint, but used it before sold to Testors (and then rust-o-leum) ....

      how about pictures of the text on the bottle, might give better clues






    • July 18, 2017 3:21 PM EDT
    • Floquil is a solvent based paint, so I would think white spirit would work. Are you trying to brush paint or airbrush?

      Btw, that line of paint has been discontinued a few years ago so if your looking for replacement good luck.

    • July 18, 2017 11:57 AM EDT
    • I am trying to find out what is the correct thinners for Testors/Floquil Railroad Colors paint. I have 2 1 oz jars that I bought in 2011. I am based in the UK so there may be some need to translate the terms used for different types of thinners. I have 3 types available to me - Cellulose, White Spirit based and Isopropyl alcohol. These terms might be different in th US. Any ideas?  Hopfully a picture of the paint jar I have attached will show to identify the product. Max