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    • April 4, 2020 3:44 PM EDT
    • The solid Tyco pilots, with the added "features" to them always bothered me. So I set out to modify the pilot. First I ground the back of the pilot thinner.

       

       

      Then I ground the extra "features" off the front of the pilot, and day-lighted the pilot. In the process, the center part broke out, so I reattached it and used a bit of strip-wood along the top to attach the broken out center part.

       

       

      Its not perfect by any means, but I am not going for an exact scale model, just a good enough representation.

    • April 4, 2020 3:01 PM EDT
    • Next I worked on the steam chest. The cylinders were cast with a slight bulge in the center. I guess that is so they would easily de-mold when they were cast. After filing the sides of the cylinders flat, I gave them a good coat of oxide red primer.

       

       

      Then I painted the ends brass. Ok, I didn't paint them, I drew on them with a Bronze coloured Sharpie.

       

      Then I painted the steam chest with craft paint.

       

       

       

      Once I was satisfied with the steam chest, I gave it a good coat of Krylon clear flat .

       

    • April 4, 2020 2:53 PM EDT
    • Of course while I have the bottom plate off to replace a driver, I clean the dried lubricant off the axles and axle bearings, and re-lube with some Lubriplate that found its way to my house one day. I also put a drop of oil on the crank pins and cross-head. Then I power the thing up and run it both directions to make sure there is no binding or odd noises. Once the drive passes inspection, then I can move on with the rebuild or bash.

    • April 4, 2020 2:47 PM EDT
    • Ok, Since Devon asked for it, I will start my thread on my kit-bashing of a Tyco 10 wheeler into the Hooterville Cannonball.

       

       

      As with all my Tyco rebuilds so far, I start with replacing the motor magnet with super magnets from Micro Mark. These magnets are much stronger then the original magnet, and cut the current draw of the motor nearly in half. I also adjust the bearing plates to remove most of the lash from the motor, and lube the motor bearings with a drop of oil. Then I power up the motor and run it both directions for a while till it settles down and will run at a nice slow speed. Most times these motors haven't turned for a few decades, so they need a little time to run the stiffness out of them.

       

       

      Then I replace the rear driver with one that does not have the traction tyre.

       

       

      The traction tyre stands proud of the tread, almost as far as the flange. This can cause derailments. To get the needed drivers, I purchased 2 "for parts" (trashed) Tyco Mikados. The Mikado uses the same drivers as the 10 wheelers, but none of the Mikado's drivers have a traction tyre. Only the first and last driver of the Mikado are flanged, but for the price of a junked locomotive, I can fix 2 10 wheelers.

       

      To isolate the motor from the frame, I put a layer of electrical tape on the bottom of the motor, and reattach the motor with a KaDee, Nylon, 2-56 screw, trimmed a bit for length.

    • April 4, 2020 6:52 AM EDT
    • Devon, I am myopic, so I just take off my glasses, turn on a good work light, and settle in. But when I am done, my eyes don't want to focus across the room for a few minutes.

       

      Forrest, thanks. I will get to the 4-4-0s eventually. I need to remotor them so I can stuff a DCC decoder into the tender. As for the Roundhouse kits, I bought way too many of them second hand.

       

      Them oldes Tyco 10 wheelers can pull, even without traction tyres.

    • April 3, 2020 11:36 PM EDT
    • Oh, 114 and train look good!

      In my HO days I found the AHM/IHC/Rivarossi 4-4-0 locomotives to be durable and reliable with my usage patterns.

      Same for the Mantua/Tyco old timers.

      It was not odd that a little bit of extra attention would improve their performance & that was okay by my interests.

      Also the 4-4-0 are fun to add details to or modify or kitbash in to power for freelance roads.

      I miss the MDC Roundhouse old time car kits, especially the passenger cars.

      --> There is a forum specifically for Tyco and Mantua HO trains, http://www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/default.asp

    • April 3, 2020 10:38 PM EDT
    • nice. Small. How do you see that stuff.

    • April 2, 2020 7:19 PM EDT
    • Boxes aren't necessary, I am not a "collector" I just play with trains.

       

      Good luck with the treatments.

    • April 2, 2020 4:47 PM EDT
    • Tyco or Mantua. Sorry no boxes, but if you can use it them I'll dig out what I have in a couple of months,,,, I start a long term radiation low dose plan next week 

    • April 2, 2020 9:59 AM EDT
    • John Caughey said:

      Need a General with the motor in the tender and a ball drive to the loco? And a Pluto Water refer? Bought in 1960.

      Well....

       

      I do have a box full of the old IHC/Riverrossi 4-4-0s that I hope to remotor and DCC equip. But I haven't worked out all the details on them yet. As for the Tyco General, I have stolen the drivers off of 2 of them to use on a 10 wheeler rebuild that I am also working on.

    • April 2, 2020 9:56 AM EDT
    • So now I am working on the one I really wanted to make since I started resurrecting these old engines. I am trying to model the Hooterville Cannonball. I hope to be starting a new thread on her soon.

       

      I can't wait to hear what that NMRA snob has to say when she goes trundling around the club set up at the next show.

    • April 2, 2020 9:53 AM EDT
    • Need a General with the motor in the tender and a ball drive to the loco? And a Pluto Water refer? Bought in 1960.

    • April 2, 2020 9:51 AM EDT
    • For the March show with the South Hills Model Railroad club I had another one running, unfortunately I didn't get a good picture of "Old Squeaky"

      She is the one in the center.

       

      On all but the first one I got running, I routed the DCC wires through the tender floor, so that the wires going from the tender to the locomotive could be kept low, and mimic the water and air lines that go between the tender and locomotive on 1:1 steam engines.

       

      This is how I modified the tender frames to route the wires.

       

    • April 2, 2020 9:45 AM EDT
    • For the February show I added 2 more to my roster.

       

       

       

      Ok, that one is actually a Mantua Mogul, but its based on the Tyco tenwheeler.

       

       

    • April 2, 2020 9:42 AM EDT
    • At the November Greenburg show, one of the former members of our NMRA FreMo group, made comments about how I should not be allowed to run that old Tyco junk on the club's scale model railroad. At the time I had 2 Tyco 10 ten wheelers in operation. That spurred me into writing a letter to the editor of the local NMRA division newsletter. I explained that this hobby should embrace all who want to participate. I also explained that the show is for the enjoyment of the public, and many members of the public enjoy seeing the toys they played with as a child still working, and still being used. Several folks commented that they, or someone that they knew,  had that train when they were a child. I also commented that those who feel that more scale equipment should be run on the club set up, should get up off their chairs and participate, by running the equipment that they feel is appropriate. Yes, I was rather upset when I wrote the letter.  The editor published my letter, with a few minor edits, and posted a reply to the letter that explained that I am one of the 2 guys who work hard during set up to align and  connect the modules, hook up the power and Locolink, and put in the connecting rails. His response to my letter made me feel good. It's nice to be noticed.

       

      Since my outdoor railroad is currently dormant until I can solve the issue with deer trampling my garden railroad, I have been concentrating on my HO equipment. Yea, you guessed it, I am upgrading and equipping more Tyco 10 wheelers with DCC deoders.

    • March 25, 2020 8:42 PM EDT
    • John Bouck said:

      I'll take the blame for that, Devon. It was me that ventured into 7/8. Mike couldn't stand that I was the only one.

       

      Yes john I know. And now I have to have one. 

    • March 25, 2020 10:07 AM EDT
    • I'll take the blame for that, Devon. It was me that ventured into 7/8. Mike couldn't stand that I was the only one.

       

    • March 25, 2020 9:18 AM EDT
    • That darn Mike has a way of getting people addicted to things they had no intention of getting addicted too. Nice Dennis and nice job Mike.

    • March 23, 2020 3:20 PM EDT
    • That is correct John. I offer it as a kit with motor block, a kit without motor block, and third option fully assembled and painted.

    • March 23, 2020 1:24 PM EDT
    • Terry, I just talked to Mike and the kit comes with a motor block. Not to worry.