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    • April 20, 2020 10:36 AM EDT
    • Interesting. I knew about the wood 1:1 model they used for filming, but I didn't know about the smaller model. In fact, in the credits of the TV show, the producers thank the hotel that owned the wood 1:1 model.

       

      Yes, the Tyco model is based on Sierra number 3, but its in a slightly larger scale than HO. The cast in number plate on the boiler front even has the number 3 cast into it.

       

      Last night I ran the thing on my test track.

       

      Odd thing is when I ran it anti-clockwise, it would stall in the curves. Running it clockwise there were no issues. I discovered that the lead wheel on the lead (pony) truck, would rub against the metal tab of the replacement brass pilot. Since none of the curves on the club's set ups are supposed to be as tight as my test track, I probably didn't need to worry about it. But I still filed back the edges of that tab so that the lead wheels no longer rubbed against it. Also, somewhere along the line, I lost the headlight lens. After running it for about a half an hour, it ran nice and smooth. She just needed to get some exercise to work out some of the stiffness in her parts.

    • April 20, 2020 8:02 AM EDT
    • Speaking of the Hooterville Cannonball, and museums, and movies, and I've probably told about this, at least once, on here somewhere before, the same fellow, Richard C. Datin, who built the original models for the original Star Trek TV show also built miniatures of the train and the Shady Rest Motel for the Petticoat junction TV show. That is covered on pages 106 to 112 of book "The Enterprise NCC 1701 and The Model Maker" by N. Datin McDonald and Richard C. Datin, Jr. Dick Datin was also involved in getting the Nevada State Railroad Museum set up and open.

      Locomotive model was used for several scenes, among them a homecoming where it snapped a banner across the track.
      Datin wanted to build model at 1/12 scale but cost led to smaller scale of 7/16 = 1 ft.
      Model was used to keep from having to pay to going up to the real one's location for filming.

      Book says producers had a full size mockup locomotive, they got secondhand, of a somehwat different configuration than the prototype at Jamestown, CA.

      Page 111 has photo of Datin taking photo of the model on a bench out in a grassy lot.

      Photos of the real 4-6-0 on page 109 show the Tyco/Mantua model to most likely be patterned on it.

      Page 107 has photo of model of Shady Rest Motel.

       

      [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/4397/36695077525_6f49ac5b70_z.jpg[/img]

    • April 20, 2020 7:37 AM EDT
    • A movie crew? Have you been reading my mind again? On my modules, I have a small siding next to where the train station will be The plan is for me to put a red dog parking lot there, with a film crew, some actors, and park the Hooterville Cannonball there. Also, since this is museum theme, I also plan on having a work crew on the other side of the modules, painting some rolling stock.

       

      Thanks Forrest.

       

      Gluing the washer into the boiler back-head seams to work rather well. Some of my better ideas are simple ones.

       

      Yes, my idea with colouring the wires black was to mimic the water and air lines.

    • April 19, 2020 7:44 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Well, I am still undecided on how to letter my latest rebuild. Originally it was going to be lettered for the Union Pacific. Right now I am still considering if I want to do that.

       If I ever get the roundhouse built, I will be able to populate it now.

      Well, one way to deal with that is to model a movie effects crew getting ready to paint the tender with the name the script calls for, after the museum rented the loco to them for the filming.

      (which in the end merely moves the considering from adding a roadname to how to model the movie crew doing the job)

      That magnet thing was a good idea. Yes, the black wires are an improvement; they get lost in the shadows as well as allude to the water and air brake plumbing between loco and tender.

    • April 19, 2020 10:20 AM EDT
    • Well, I am still undecided on how to letter my latest rebuild. Originally it was going to be lettered for the Union Pacific. Right now I am still considering if I want to do that. But, she can't sit in limbo forever, I have other projects to do. So...

      One of the issues I have had with these things is keeping the boiler back-head in place. At one of the shows I had a momentary flash of brilliance. OK, maybe not brilliance, but I had a good idea. Since the back-head slides onto the back of the open frame motor, and the magnets are at the back of the open frame motor, then why not make the plastic boiler back head magnetic? Then it will stay in place. So I took some #4 washers and glued them to the inside of the boiler back-heads. Now the motor magnets will hold the boiler back-heads in place.

       

       

      Now that that issue is resolved, I attached the tender frame and locomotive with the draw-bar and wired up the DCC decoder, along with the LED driver.

       

       

      I am getting neater with my installs, my first few Tyco installs look awful.

       

      I coloured the wires that go from the locomotive to the tender with a Sharpie, that way I don't have multicoloured wires exposed. I think it looks better with them black.

       

      Then I snapped on the tender shell, and tucked in the wires.

       

      Then I put the top on the tender.

       

      Since she needs a number, so I can program the decoder and know what number I programmed into her, I put a dry transfer number 7 on the back of the tender. I chose 7 since she is the 7th Tyco/Mantua steamer I have reworked and put a decoder into.

       

       

      While working on this locomotive, and Devoning the Hooterville Cannonball, I also got another Mantua locomotive upgraded with new motor magnets, a replacement rear driver, LED headlight, and DCC decoder install.

      If I ever get the roundhouse built, I will be able to populate it now.

    • April 17, 2020 11:38 AM EDT
    • The headlight top (cap), rear driver, and smoke-box front came from another basket case 10 wheeler. That one had also been broken, and the previous owner used generous amounts of tube glue to repair it. With the blobs of glue oozed down the outside of the boiler, that shell is trashed. But, with a purchase price of a few dollars, it was a good source of the odd bits that I needed to rescue this one.

       

      I haven't decided yet what number to put onto this one. I am thinking of 66, because the 1966 Tyco catalog is the oldest Tyco catalog I have seen that lists the 10 wheeler.

       

      As for a road name, I was going to letter it for the Union Pacific, so it can be assigned to my Union Pacific Roundhouse Sierra cars, but maybe it would be better to not put any road name on it, so it can fill whatever duty I want. The theme of my modules is a railroad museum, but I don't even want to put the museum name on the thing. Why not? Because I don't think "Ferroequine Historiology Cynosure" would fit well onto the thing.

    • April 17, 2020 11:16 AM EDT
    • After that, I masked off the domes and painted the boiler black, Once the black dried, I masked off the boiler and the lamp, and painted the smoke-box silver. I am glad that I have a decent stash of Krylon rattle cans.

       

       

      Then I painted the wheel rims white.

       

       

      And used my silver Sharpie to coluor in the headlight lens frame, and touch up the smoke-box front.

    • April 17, 2020 11:09 AM EDT
    • While working on my Hooterville Cannonball, I was also working on a rescue project on another ten wheeler. I need to have more then one project going at a time, so when I get to a point on one where I have to stop, to let glue, paint, or ink dry, I can keep working. My rescue project was a dropped ten wheeler. the pilot was bent, and the handrail mounts were broken. I cut the bent pilot off, and replaced it with a Cal-scale brass one. Then I took some brass tubing and replaced the broken handrail mounts.

       

       

      The one on the smoke-box runs all the way through the smoke-box. Once the glue had dried, I filed away most of the tube that was inside the smoke-box, so I can reinstall the boiler weight.

       

      I needed to replace the missing stack, so I "borrowed" a straight stack from another 10 wheeler and fabricated a new one from some plastic tubing.

       

      I heated the end of the tubing, then jammed a small screwdriver into the tubing. By pressing the handle of the screwdriver against the heated tubing, it caused the tubing to flair out evenly on the end of the tubing.

       

      Then I cut the tubing to length. To be honest, I made it a little bit longer than the original stack. Then I used a piece of brass tubing inserted into the base of the stack, and a hole in the boiler, to solidly remount the sack to the boiler.

       

    • April 18, 2020 7:32 AM EDT
    • Missile sponge, designed to take the hits. I see. In a related note, I put "sacrificial rails" on my modules. Sometimes during tear down after a show, someone in a rush to tear down, doesn't remove the connecting rails between modules before disconnecting the clamps that hold the modules together. Then they end up ripping the rails off a module. So the last 2 inches of my rails are not connected to the rails on my module with rail joiners. They are just glued in place. A few shows ago, a well intentioned newbie ripped off the sacrificial rails from one end of my modules. Replacing 2 inches of rail was a whole lot easier then replacing the turnouts that abut the sacrificial rails. So my design did just what it was intended to do. The sacrificial rails "took the hit", protecting the rest of the track-work and turnouts.

    • April 17, 2020 8:52 PM EDT
    • David,

       

      "Missile sponge" is a Navy term for the ships that were supposed to take the hits - absorbing missiles as a sponge absorbs water - to allow the carrier to carry on her mission.  In my case, it is the lower cost, battery powered items that let the kids have trains of their own that worked in the garden, absorbing the blows of well intended toddler hands, and thus minimizing the risk of damage to more expensive items.  We are aging out of that period of our lives, which allows me to consider repairing superficial damage for those on the model end of the spectrum or examine the art of the possible at the toy end of the spectrum.  Like I said, really, really nascent ideas right now, with no intention of putting plans to action just yet, and threads like this help scope the planning efforts.  

       

      I also really enjoyed the challenge of figuring out how to get my old LGB fleet back into action after its long hibernation.  Some worked out of the box.  Some needed some investigation and repair.  That m2071D defies every effort to get it rolling.  Success or failure, by and large, these repair efforts had a positive bleed over effect into other areas in the 1:1 scale word.  It is more tinkering, I suppose, than restoration, but it is satisfying.

       

      Thanks,

       

      Eric

    • April 17, 2020 6:06 PM EDT
    • While I am not sure what a Missile Sponge is, I have been into restoration of models for decades. It allows me to have more then I can afford new, and it also allows me to have what I want, that may not be commercially available.

    • April 17, 2020 3:09 PM EDT
    • David,

       

      This is an inspiring restoration.  Thanks for taking the time to detail each step.   I am plotting my "Rehabilitation of the Missile Sponges" some time in the indeterminant future, and this is a really cool study of the possible.

       

      Aloha,

      Eric

    • April 17, 2020 10:52 AM EDT
    • Ok, I have been remiss in posting to this thread. So since the last posting, I had pained the boiler with Krylon semi gloss black. Once that dried, I painted the light, and bases of the domes, with a few coats of my red craft paint.

       

       

      Once that dried,  Then came a few coats of green craft paint on the domes.

       

      And I started colouring in with my Bronze Sharpie. You can also see the brass tube I mounted into the the boiler, so I can reattach the stack.

      After the paint, and colouring the bands, builder's plate, and dome tops with the Sharpie, I did a trial assembly to see how things are looking.

       

       

      On the cab, I used a silver Sharpie to colour the aluminum window frame in the cab.

       

       

      I need to do another coat of black paint on the pilot beam. Once I did that, I started Devoning about the artwork on the cab and tender.

       

      The prototype artwork is partly done with applied printed artwork. I didn't want to do mine that way, since I thought it would look like I cheeped out. But the more I think about it, the more I am warming up to the idea, Its how the movie studio did it on the real locomotive, and it would be a lot easier for me to do it that way on the model.

       

       

    • April 8, 2020 9:43 AM EDT
    • I painted the pilot with Krylon ruddy brown primer. Then I painted on a few coats of my red craft paint, and once that dried, I gave it a coat of Krylon flat clear. Once the plot was done, then I assembled the chassis. I cleaned the black gunk off the axle bearings, and the gunk and paint over-spray off of the axles. Then I lubricated the axles with some Lubriplate. I coloured the crank pin bolts with my bronze Sharpie and assembled the chassis.

       

       

      You can see the wires from the motor, and frame, that will go to the DCC decoder.

       

      Then I realized that I had goofed. The Pilot beam is supposed to be black, as well as the top of the steam chest. Well, I will fix that when I use my chalkboard craft paint to paint the cab and smoke-box.

       

      After putting a drop of oil on the crank pins and cross-heads, I clipped an HO power pack to the motor, and ran the drive forward and backward. It runs smooth, and will even run at a very slow speed. Not that Tycos are known for their slow speed running characteristics.

    • April 7, 2020 8:04 PM EDT
    • After stripping the paint from the boiler, I carved off the feed water pipes. Molded on piping looks, well, molded on. I was going to carve off the air pump and replace that too, but I decided that was a "detail too far". Yes, I "borrowed" that phrase from someone here. Again, I am trying to achieve a good representation of the Cannonball, not a scale model. Then the boiler that got a coat of semi gloss, Krylon black.

       

      A few spokes in the drivers were miscast, I guess its either a defect in the mold, or there were air bubbles trapped in the mold. So I built up those areas with some super glue and baking soda. I was going to use JB Quick, but the one tube I had was partly dried and the stuff wouldn't mix up right. Once the super glue/baking soda patches set up hard, I carved them to shape, and then primed the drivers with Kylon ruddy brown primer. After the primer dried, I gave the drivers a few coats of red craft paint. After letting the craft paint dry for a couple of days, I coated the drivers with Krylon clear flat.

       

      The drive rods got a good coat of Krylon semi gloss black, and then I drew on them with my Bronze Sharpie.

       

       

       

    • April 7, 2020 9:19 AM EDT
    • Yes that looks way way better

    • April 6, 2020 11:25 AM EDT
    • On the Tyco pony trucks, they just used the same axles that they used in the trucks. So the axles extend beyond the wheels, and come to a point. That is another detail that just looks wrong to me. So I filed the axles flush with the wheels.

       

       

      Then I gave the wheels a coat of primer. On the left is a pony truck in it's original condition.

       

       

      Then I painted the face of the wheels with my red craft paint, and drew on the wheels with my bronze Sharpie.

       

      This is odd, I can't find the picture.

       

    • April 5, 2020 7:03 PM EDT
    • Success is a good thing; and a solidly engineered model sure makes success easier to achieve.

    • April 5, 2020 6:45 PM EDT
    • You are welcome Devon.

       

      I soaked the plastic parts in Pine Sol for a couple of days, taking them out from time to time to scrub the paint off the parts.

       

      The locomotive shell was black, then factory painted painted black, then the boiler jacket area was painted green. The cab was red, factory painted red, and then stamped with the artwork, and the tender shell was done the same way. The artwork came off after just an hour of soaking, the first coat of paint came off after a day, but it took 2 days to get it all off.

       

      Last year I had stripped and reassembled another 10 wheeler. It was a "prof of concept" prototype. Actually, it was to become the Hooterville Cannonball, but I like the "shake the box" kit look of it, so it runs naked at the shows.

       

      This locomotive proved that even without a traction tyre, the locomotive can not only still run, but can pull a decent train.

       

      Also, it proved that my home made, shorter draw-bar idea works just fine. As does my routing of the wires through the tender floor, and below the level of the draw-bar.

       

    • April 5, 2020 12:47 PM EDT
    • I like the bronze sharpie idea.

       

      This project works for sure. I could care less if its G HO Z or ride on. Jus as long as w all have something to share. Thanks David