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    • July 27, 2020 10:41 PM EDT
    • Thanks.

    • July 27, 2020 10:24 AM EDT
    • My pal Jerry (Naptowneng) has a collection of n-scale trains, and one day he pulled out a WM loco. Here it is on my 1:20 EBT flat, being taken back to the shop for repairs.



      It's clearly ride-on size, and I think I did the math to suggest n-gauge is about 7 1/2" gauge in F scale. (45mm / 9mm = 5, so it's 1/5th the gauge of 3' narrow, or 7.2".)


      If you are going to lay a 7 1/2" gauge ride-on in the garden, then you need proper track. N-scale std gauge has small ties, so what you need is Peco 009 (=HOe) narrow gauge.



      And you discover there are cute little stamers available to run on your 9mm track. This is about the same length as the Wm loco above, and would represent a 1 1/2" scale narrow gauge loco running on 7 1/2" track.


    • July 26, 2020 11:09 PM EDT
    • Daniel Collins said:
      Todd Brody said:

      If he used a 1" scale house and Z-scale trains, they would be about 1:18 relative to the house.

      1 / 12 = .0833

      1 / 220 = 0.0045

      0.0833 / 0.0045 = 18.3


      Yes, but he has n-scale trains  to work with.



      OK..., then he needs to use a 2" scale house to represent 1:26.7 which would be about perfect. 


    • July 26, 2020 10:53 PM EDT
    • going from a N-scale presenting a largescaletrain, the models representing "1 to 1 scale" should be about "Barbie-scale".


      (easy math: 1:160 (N-scale) divided by 1:22.5 (largescale) = about 1:7 scale (figures of 10"))

    • July 26, 2020 10:43 PM EDT
    • Todd Brody said:

      If he used a 1" scale house and Z-scale trains, they would be about 1:18 relative to the house.

      1 / 12 = .0833

      1 / 220 = 0.0045

      0.0833 / 0.0045 = 18.3







      Yes, but he has n-scale trains  to work with.


    • July 26, 2020 9:33 PM EDT
    • If he used a 1" scale house and Z-scale trains, they would be about 1:18 relative to the house.


      1 / 12 = .0833


      1 / 220 = 0.0045


      0.0833 / 0.0045 = 18.3

    • July 26, 2020 9:20 PM EDT
    • I passed the info on to my dad. He's off to do some shopping for buildings and figures, scenery, etc.

    • July 26, 2020 9:02 PM EDT
    • Thanks. That answers the question.

    • July 26, 2020 7:32 PM EDT
    • One of the modules on our g-scale club layout was a ride-on train setup on an oval....  

      The train was N-scale and matched fairly well as a ride-on...

      Just to give you an opinion..


    • July 26, 2020 6:58 PM EDT
    • What Ken said is what I have seen too. Somewhere around Z scale is about the proper ratio, but hey , you can’t get more garden than a train that can carry you and your tools to the garden and back!!! It might be  not enough of a difference to where people notice.

    • July 26, 2020 5:51 PM EDT
    • The house would probably need to be a bit bigger then that. 

      With a G scale size house you would be simulating more of a ride on type train. 

    • July 26, 2020 5:12 PM EDT
    • My father, who lives on the other side of the country, recently bought an older n-scale train collection, locomotive and coaches, all unused. He wants to build a "garden railroad" in which the n-scale train would simulate a g-scale set running in the back of a model house. I'm having problems doing the math to figure out what size/scale house and such would be usable without looking too big or too small? Any ideas? Would g-scale buildings be big enough?

    • June 29, 2020 8:39 AM EDT
    • I have seen the can motor upgrades for the Tycos. But, the open frame motor with the new magnets, and with the excess motor lash fixed, run rather well on DCC. No, they will not perform like a $300 locomotive, but they also don't have to be run at Tyco speeds neither.


      I have several of the AHM 4-4-0s, and Bachmann 4-4-0s, and a bunch of can motors to upgrade them with. But working out the motor mounts, and all wheel power pick up, has become more of a challenge then I am willing to deal with at the moment.


      I could have isolated the motor brush the way you described, but I was afraid that over time the edge of the motor frame might cut through the insulation. It probably would not, but I wasn't sure. A package of nylon screws wasn't that expensive, and with 12 in a package I can upgrade 12 locomotives. Currently I think I have 10 running, and 4 more I am working on.

    • June 28, 2020 11:24 AM EDT
    • If you camp out on ebay, Mantua in the last days of operation started putting can motors in this style of motor set up.  They can be found with the angled mount and correct worm gear on the shaft from time to time.  I have one of the bumblebee DRG 12 wheelers.  Same boiler/cab/tender as the ten wheeler.  They are OO scale in physical size so the motor would fit in the cab.  These and the General 4-4-0 are about the only options out there if you want to model the pre 1900 era of railroading in the USA.  Sadly, no mfg's have paid attention to this era to give us a much better running model, outside of the new generation of Bachmann's 4-4-0 with a tiny pager motor in the boiler instead of the early tender drives.   Another option is the Rivarossi/AHM Casey Jones 4-6-0(vastly improved with a NWSL speed reduction regear kit), or their tender driven 4-4-0's.  But then you deal with deep flanges from those early models.    Great work on the Tyco/Mantua 4-6-0.   You do NOT have to isolate the whole motor from the frame, just BOTH motor brushes.  A piece of insulation stripped from some wire can be slid over the spring wire for the grounded motor brush, isolating it from the motor/locomotive's frame.  Then you can wire for DCC after doing the magnet job.  A new can motor obviously is the best option and they run sooooo much better with one.      Mike

    • May 19, 2020 6:40 PM EDT
    • Yep it goes against what was taught back in the day, but if that were the case think of all the dropped electronics devises that would be trash if not for a day or two in a bag of rice

    • May 19, 2020 5:56 PM EDT
    • David, that may be true. I just have an aversion to getting motors wet. Its a personal preference, or maybe a personality flaw, of mine.

    • May 19, 2020 7:04 AM EDT
    • All can be separated Dave, but soaking the armature will not hurt thing you just need to let it sit for a week or so, preferably after you blow dry it with an air gun, before you plug it in. Again YMMV

    • May 19, 2020 5:28 AM EDT
    • I haven't taken mine apart, so I don't know if the motor can be separated from the gears to soak the gears. The grease in the old Tycos can usually be cleaned off with Dawn dish-soap in water and a toothbrush.

    • May 18, 2020 8:05 PM EDT
    • I'd soak in dawn. it don't hurt wild life

    • May 18, 2020 7:47 PM EDT
    • Since we're talking Tyco rehabs, a question:

      While going through my boxed-up On30 projects Thursday and Friday I came across a Tyco pseudo-GG1-1 acquired somewhere in recent years. It was bought knowing it was complete but did not run.
      Took a break from my long dormant On30 project revival (one is on a Tyco/Mantua 4-wheel Plymouth mechanism) to dismantle the G and try to troubleshoot it.

      First problem is that whatever grease whoever applied who knows when has pretty much "grease-glued" the transmission.

      The effort required to remove and free the axles was exponentially more than reasonable.
      Was deeply concerned about breaking gear teeth but that seems to have not happened.

      I know things can be done about that on these, and even on full size internal combustion vehicles, but do not know what it is which can be done to this.

      What I do know is that scratch below on engineer window is really deep and will need filler.
      So, I might as well dunk the body in Scalecoat's "Wash Away" to strip all the paint.
      And if I'm going to do that, might as well add some pilot details and LED headlights ...

      ... IF ...

      ... the motor and transmission can be restored.

      So -->

      --> I am requesting advice on how to dissolve, loosen, clean, the "grease glue" wihtout damaging the lacquer insulation on the armature windings.