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    • November 20, 2018 5:38 PM EST
    • David Maynard said:

      Wow, this is serious. The thing even has an hobbs meter.

       

       

      Almost all ride-on engines (gas or electric) have hour meters. Generally to keep track of time in use/maintenance work. These engines clock hundreds of miles (in comparison to thousands of feet with garden railway variety of RR stock). Our club diesels (electrics) have complete maintenance logs for each engine on the roster. So do the club steam engines. Some are small 1-1/2 scale Pacific's to the larger NG Sweet Creek steamers in 3-3/4 scale. Maintained with the same care that the full-sized railroads did back in the day. When you run at very large tracks like Train Mountain in Oregon or Mill Creek in Michigan, you can accumulate a lot of miles quickly. Train Mountain has almost 45 actual miles of track and Mill Creek is near 5-7 miles, I believe. Our track here in Los Angeles has a mainline run of about two miles for one circuit. All of my electric engines have hobbs/hour meters.

       

    • November 20, 2018 5:10 PM EST
    • Sean said:

      Hmmm ... if you put a ceramic bowl on top of the motor .. will it heat it up enough to work as a smoke unit ?

      That motor will be working hard ...

      Like minds and all that  :)  ......... I just ordered an exhaust stack from him yesterday. Has a stainless steel stack and a "rain flapper" :).

    • November 20, 2018 4:20 PM EST
    • Wow, this is serious. The thing even has an hobbs meter.

       

    • November 20, 2018 1:16 PM EST
    • Video showing a Super Husky pulling 12, 1-1/2 inch scale steel gondolas and two cabeese. Each gondola weighs about  150-175 pounds and the cabeese are probably 125-150 pounds each. Approx. 2200 pounds including the Husky and the engineer. ONE 500 W 24v motor :) I was told by the manufacturer of these engines to hold the gear ratio around 6:1. I believe the chain sizes are 25 and 35.

       

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGISz6MOwZo&fbclid=IwAR0pA5c8C9wyM5ZKhLJJUpDVUbtG8ZasI1-LN4yd7ZQspXkhqzmAVaUZots

    • November 20, 2018 8:17 AM EST
    • Hmmm ... if you put a ceramic bowl on top of the motor .. will it heat it up enough to work as a smoke unit ?

      That motor will be working hard ...

    • November 19, 2018 7:55 PM EST
    • " Rooster " said:

      So it's probably not gonna have HEP then.

      Ok Rooster......I'll bite :).

    • November 19, 2018 7:45 PM EST
    • So it's probably not gonna have HEP then.

    • November 19, 2018 4:25 PM EST
    • Sean said:

      So do you have the prime mover yet for this baby ?

      Sean,

      As a matter of fact, I do. The man doing the electronics for me has purchased a few motors for other builds he does. The power with be a single 500 watt, 24 volt motor. We had thought about going to two 500 watt motors but the battery capacity of the batteries that will fit under the hood and in the cab just won't permit that. The single motor with chain drive to the axles and an idler shaft can pull about 11 steel gondolas (empty) on a level track. Pretty strong for only 4 wheels and and a light engine at 150 pounds. There are quite a few videos of Super Husky's running. This engine will have Phoenix Sound and a RC wireless controller. RC controllers are those used with model race cars. Not tethered. I have talked with folks who use this system and they say the range is about 500 feet. I can literally sit on a bench next to our yard at the LALS club track and do all my switching without being anywhere near the train. The kid's can handle the couplers and use hand signals :). Many use this system already now in the ride-on scales to control the larger diesels in the 1000 pound range. Just BIG garden railways!! All with full sound and large amplifiers added. Large woofer speakers really can "shake the ground" as they go by :). No room for amplifiers in my critter though.

      This is the 500 watt 24 volt motor we will be using. I'm told by the man doing my electronics that this motor should provide around 3/4 HP. To give an idea of the physical size of this motor, those aluminum angles for the motor mounts are 1 inch X 1 inch angle.

       

      This phoyo shows the two 12 volt batteries that power this little engine. They are both Group 26 size batteries.

       

      This photo shows the back panel of the electronics. This is the earlier version using a "tethered" cable from the handheld controller box.

       

      Looking down inside the cab showing one battery and the electrical panel. Not a lot of room.

       

      RC wireless transmitter/controller and the small rectangular receiver and motor controller. All available from Amazon for under $50! This doesn't have to be an expensive hobby. This may even be less expensive than 1/29th!

    • November 19, 2018 12:43 PM EST
    • So do you have the prime mover yet for this baby ?

    • November 19, 2018 12:36 PM EST
    • Sean said:

      Gary you need a hobby .. with all this free time you have ... You lucked out with the kit ...

      Funny you should say that..........my wife says the same thing :)

      I WAS lucky to get the kit. Quite a few folks were surprised when he decided to stop production on this little engine. Those people were doing the same thing as I was (building their own engines and getting the material and machining their own parts). Rich Eaton is STILL in business with his Eaton Custom Engineering in Castle Rock, WA. He just said that production was taking time away from other things he manufactures in the ride-on and HO hobby. He does make some beautiful 1=1/2 inch scale arch bar trucks and other detail items. Also does some really nice HO wig/wag signals and trolley poles for HO traction.

    • November 19, 2018 7:58 AM EST
    • Gary you need a hobby .. with all this free time you have ... You lucked out with the kit ...

    • November 18, 2018 9:37 AM EST
    • very nice

    • November 17, 2018 11:30 PM EST
    • Wow, it's hard to believe  18 months has gone by since I last updated this Eaton Super Husky build. There was the #5 turnout build (seemed like it took forever to finally finish that one). And the build of the new Baldwin P.E. 1600 series box cab electric.

      Quite a bit has happened with this Super Husky build inj the past few months. I had to make some financial adjustments to be able to finish this engine. Rich Eaton in Castle Rock, Washington has been producing these neat little engines for 15 years. Well, he decided to stop production on this RTR engines. According to Rich (on his Facebook page), he says it was a good run, but time to hang it up as far as the Super Husky. No more parts would be available and his last engine rolled off the production line a couple of months ago. The last one was Serial #52. When I saw this, I was a little concerned that I wouldn't be able to purchase some of the parts I would need to complete the locomotive. The big item was the cab and hood structure. I had already decided a long time ago that I would have a local sheet metal vendor do the cab. Cut the window and door openings, rivet holes and cut and shape the roof. I had put out some quotes to get this done in aircraft grade 6061 T5 aluminum. Most vendors thought it was too small of a job and didn't want to be bothered. Some did come back with quotes to do the cab in 16ga sheet steel, but that would defeat the purpose of making an all aluminum engine for ease of lifting into a SUV. I emailed Rich in July of this year and asked if there was a chance he might still have a "cab kit" still available for me to purchase. He answered back right away and said he would sell me the kit including the side walls, front and rear walls, all the window and door openings cut into each piece, a fully shaped roof ready to mpount, a door to go on the rear wall, window shades bent and shaped to size and ready to mount and the arm rests for each side window. Best part was $249+shipping.  I told him to ship one down.

      After I worked on my son's new Baldwin electric today (adding new cab locators shown in another thread here on LSC), I decided to finally open the box holding the cab pieces I had ordered months ago. I assembled the cab late this afternoon to see what it would look like of my Super Husky aluminum frame. All of a sudden, this engine is looking a little larger than I thought. This is cool :). Not a big deal. Photos below:

      Photo of the assembled aluminum cab, made from .055" thick aircraft grade 6061 T5 aluminum. Eaton uses "pop-rivets to fasten the walls together (I'm using 1/8th inch diameter cleco clamps here using Rich's predrilled holes). I'm thinking about going to 2/56 Allen button head screws instead. Looks like rivets and easy to take apart for painting, lettering or general maintenance. I'm also thinking about looking a detail photos of old Whitcomb or Plymouth engines for some rivet detail. Might be a nice touch now that I was able to rivet the cabs on our Baldwin electrics without any issues. I'm waiting on a piece of 1/2 inch thick by 10 inch tall by 9 inch wide aircraft grade aluminum plate to machine the custom grill in the front of the hood. My buddy with the CNC Bridgeport mill will be cutting the edges of this plate where it fits into the hood. This way it will be a nice tight "net" fit and NO gaps. I will draw the detail to be cut in the face of the grill including engraving the PLYMOUTH name in the upper section of the grill! It's really nice to have access to an NC mill for this kind of work. MasterCam will produce the tool paths to make this happen.

       

      Rear wall of the cab with door and window openings. To give you a size comparison, that cab is 15 inches wide and 14-1/2 inches tall. The model is sitting on my just completed #5 turnout with spacer blocks under the frame. For the true clearance when the journals and wheels are install, the space between the rail and the bottom of the frame will be 1 inch (I used 3/4 in this photo).

       

      Size comparison with the 1-1/2 inch scale Bettendorf trucks.

       

      The "faux" door to be inserted behind the rear wall. The idea is that the cab isn't supposed to be detail. Just a very utilitarian switcher designed for quick and easy loading in a SUV and just for getting out and playing. Not worrying about little details being broken of or lost. Just for "kids" of all ages to enjoy a quick trip around your home or out at the club track.

       

      This photo shows the four louvered access doors on each side and the window shades sitting on top of the roof. When these are mounted on each side wall, the long angled section slipps between theroof lip and the side wall and is riveted into place.

       

      That's all for now. Too many projects.....so little time. :)

    • November 18, 2018 12:12 PM EST
    • I HAVE 3 OF THE OTHER STYLE BUT I HAVE ONE OF THESE TOO!

    • November 18, 2018 7:46 AM EST
    • Gary, I bought one of those cordless drills a few years ago.

      I really like the ultra low speed setting on mine. I can drill plastic and plexi without melting the stuff.

    • November 16, 2018 2:29 PM EST
    • Sean said:

      Funny...I have been called many names but not Pete ...

       

      Sorry "Pete"......"Brain Fart" again......:) Sean, I TOLD you I was "old". BUT, I still love trains AND I know what they are :)....

      Also, it was around my "nap time" :).

    • November 16, 2018 6:57 AM EST
    • Funny...I have been called many names but not Pete ...

    • November 15, 2018 4:08 PM EST
    • Sean said:

      My bit brace works well  .. slower now as I get older ..the Yankee screw gun still works along with cordless drill..

      Image result for bit brace Image result for Yankee screw gun Image result for hand drill 

       

      Pete, Thanks for posting your photos of those neat old tools :) . My son and daughter-in-law just moved into our 100 yr. old cabin built by my grandfather in the late teens and early twenties. He built that cabin by himself using tools just like those above. My son was going through my grandfather's old toolbox up there and found a brace/bit and crank hand drill just like the ones you have. Photos of hand drill below. My GF probably bought this when he was first married would place it about 1915. I love old tools :)!

    • November 15, 2018 6:49 AM EST
    • My bit brace works well  .. slower now as I get older ..the Yankee screw gun still works along with cordless drill..

      Image result for bit brace Image result for Yankee screw gun Image result for hand drill 

       

    • November 15, 2018 12:53 AM EST
    • I still have an old Milwaukee drill motor from the 1970's used in my trade.

      I get it out every once in a while to use. still works flawlessly.

      Rick