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    • May 12, 2018 10:31 AM EDT
    • The attached video is of the maiden run of my Southern Pacific Overnighter consist on Noel Wilsons layout in 2012. Later I eliminated the second B unit and replaced with another A unit as was prototypical of the Zipper as it ran between Southern California and Northern California. As noted previously each engine has sound.

       

       

    • May 10, 2018 6:17 PM EDT
    • As a pure so far observer, I do not have a running railroad  yet, but have been to a lot of open houses, so for what it’s worth go with the sound in both, people notice that an engine is not “online” when it rolls by and is silent. My brother In law at the first layout he saw noticed and was asking why one was making sound(this time a B Unit) and the A was silent.  I would just for the realistic look and sound( that’s why we have sound) go with option 3 or4 . Of course the best way is always the spendy way, so maybe go with option 1 then upgrade to option 4 after you see how you like it

    • May 10, 2018 3:29 PM EDT
    • Michael

       

      I have a trio of A-B-A USAT F3's set-up with 14.8V Li-Po batteries to pull my SP Coast Overnighter consist. I setup my powered A units each with an AirWire Drop-In, P8 sound and battery. The unpowered B unit has a sound only decoder and 6.0V battery. The sound of each engine passing by with its own song is killer. The horn and lights are programmed to work on the lead A unit. I can cold start the engine(s) one at a time, its pretty neat noise but not really needed for prototypical model operation I suppose. I replaced all the lighting with warm white LED's and used turned down mini flashlight reflectors for the headlights. The Mars and stationary headlight are impressive IMO.

       

      Michael

    • May 10, 2018 2:25 PM EDT
    • Thanks for the replies so far.

       

      Anticipating the return of Airwire battery conversion expert Paul Burch for his valued input. I'm sure he's outside running trains on his Southern Pacific railroad..... 

       

      If I'm not mistaken, I think this will be the same kind of Airwire/battery installation scenario that will be used for the rumored upcoming release of the USA Trains F-7A/F-7B units.

       

    • May 11, 2018 3:14 PM EDT
    • Crap, disregard my comment about H bridges. I thought it was a encoder at first glance, not a decoder.  

       

      The NmraDcc library (available through the Arduino Library Manager) is pretty robust for both stationary and motion decoders. Not super intuitive, though. This is what I’ve been using for my AirWire decoder experiments. 

    • May 11, 2018 1:04 PM EDT
    •  

      Yea.  I'm *just* getting into DCC here, even though Ive played with Arduinos (Arduinii?) for years.  Not even sure what I'd use it for.  I'd probably piggyback an optical relay shield with it and use it to turn lights on and off on the RR... 

    • May 11, 2018 11:50 AM EDT
    • Note that the DCC shield only provides 400 mA.  If you want to do this with G scale, you could use a higher-power H bridge, and toggle the direction line with the DCC bitstream.  An intermediate option is the 2A Motor Shield.  The DCC++ project has info on using this to drive both main and programming tracks.  

    • May 11, 2018 9:55 AM EDT
    • I can understand how some people prefer tactile controls, But I am so happy with JMRI free software connected to my DCC system (Digitrax) and android apps as wireless throttles on my old smart phones and tablets. Friends and visitors have downloaded the app on their android or iPhones and can run a train intuitively. All function buttons available and labeled in plain English on the throttle app.

    • May 11, 2018 9:03 AM EDT
    • There's also this one, but it's in the UK

       

      https://www.dccinterface.com/

    • May 11, 2018 8:39 AM EDT
    • Chris Kieffer said:

      I'm hoping their Proto Throttle comes down to a more reasonable price, it really looks like fun.

       

      Yea.  500 clams for just the throttle is a bit steep, even if it is cool.  Someone needs to come up with a beltpack implementation, too.

    • May 11, 2018 8:04 AM EDT
    • I'm hoping their Proto Throttle comes down to a more reasonable price, it really looks like fun.

    • May 11, 2018 7:34 AM EDT
    • This seems like it might be fun to play with.  

       

      https://www.iascaled.com/store/ARD-DCCSHIELD

    • May 11, 2018 12:01 AM EDT
    • This is how I wired my Mogul multi-tasking the charge jack as an ON/OFF switch and a charging jack.. I used a fuse that's not depicted in the attached drawing.

       

      Is there a current sticky on posting pictures? I looked didn't find anything that seemed to be current. I was able to attach the thumbnail below, I'd like to post the full size - constrained photo.

       

      Michael

    • May 10, 2018 10:13 PM EDT
    • The plan right now is to hide the fwd/rev switch as part of the external engine carburetor. Move it forward/back and corresponding direction.

      I have some reed switches with large magnets that I could also try for an on/off switch. The problem with that idea is that I could use the same "hiding" spot for the charging jack and wire it as Michael suggested above.

    • May 10, 2018 10:06 PM EDT
    • Craig Townsend said:

      Paul,

      I don't have a center off switch on hand. If I end up having to order parts, I will toss in a dp dt center off switch. So for now, it's two different switches. The other limiting factor is the room inside. The space I have barely fits the 9 volt battery, so I have to get creative on switch size and location. I'm also trying to hide the switch in plain sight.

      You could copy Newquida and have the on/Off switch covered with a toolbox or considering its such a low current a reed switch under a metal plate with a magnet disguised as a piece of equipment to activate it.

      I have actually seen the reed switch and magnet idea used as a FWD/REV switch just depended which side of the loco the magnet was placed bit of creative wiring but it is in plain sight.

      The pics attached show how I did a small loco with on/charge on one side and direction on the other way out in plain sight.

    • May 10, 2018 7:15 PM EDT
    • Paul,

      I don't have a center off switch on hand. If I end up having to order parts, I will toss in a dp dt center off switch. So for now, it's two different switches. The other limiting factor is the room inside. The space I have barely fits the 9 volt battery, so I have to get creative on switch size and location. I'm also trying to hide the switch in plain sight.

    • May 10, 2018 7:04 PM EDT
    • Craigs' DPDT center off will work without the additional SPST if he always remembers to have the DPDT in the off position when charging.

    • May 10, 2018 5:22 PM EDT
    • Missed the reverse direction requirement (thanks, Michael).  Provided you don't mind having the charge jack connected to the battery full time, this would work for your single SPDP and additional SPST.  

    • May 10, 2018 3:05 PM EDT
    • For those interested this is where I'm getting the power information. 

      "Electric Technic Motor 9V

      Lugnet Partsref 2838c01Peeron 2838c01, Lego 74569

      The older 9V Technic motor (1990). Ungeared, it has a high rotation speed and low torque, so for most applications it requires an external gear reduction."

      http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

       

      9v supply gets you:

      4100 RPM (yes I have a gear reduction)

      No load current 35 mA

      Stalled

      Torque .85 N.cm

      Stall Current 700 mA

       

       


      2838

      Torque

      Rotation 
      speed

      Current

      Mechanical
      power 

      Electrical
      power 

      Efficiency

      6 V

      0.45 N.cm

      580 rpm

      0.32 A

      0.27 W

      1.9 W

      14 %

      7 V

      0.45 N.cm

      1000 rpm

      0.32 A

      0.46 W

      2.3 W

      20 %

      9 V

      0.45 N.cm

      2000 rpm

      0.32 A

      0.9 W

      3 W

      31 %

      12 V

      0.45 N.cm

      3300 rpm

      0.33 A

      1.5 W

      4 W

      39 %

    • May 10, 2018 2:51 PM EDT
    • Craig

       

      I'd suggest no problem with the Lego motor... I have a LGB Mogul set-up with a 6 cell 22V, 2200mAh Li-Ion battery with an original wireless QSI G-wire Receiver and Magnum sound decoder, pretty sure I'm drawing around 1 amp with my setup. 

       

       

      Eric

       

      No provisions for FWD-REV DPDT operation.

       

      Michael