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    • October 29, 2017 7:56 PM EDT
    • Identified:  I ordered plugs, they arrived and they work fine.  Perfect fit.  Please note that the little bumps that somewhat, "lock," the plug to connector on the locomotive are very positive, and it took me prodding with an Xacto knife point to dislodge the plug.  Snug fit.

      Connectors are :  "Jst Xh 2.5 4 pin connector with 200 mm wire pigtail, male and female, $3.79   And,  Jst Xh 2.5 2 pin battery connector male and female, $3.49."  Got 5 sets of each.   Also came with the mating connector without pigtail for fixed male mounting.  I only needed the female plug with pigtail, but I have sets now.   

    • October 22, 2017 3:43 PM EDT
    • Greg, I'm trying to match the factory Bachmann pair of connectors that are factory flush mounted behind and below the back of the cab opening.  I was given a tender where the companion, "plugs," and pigtails were missing.  If what I ordered is wrong, I'll remove the Bachmann connectors and start over completely.  At that point I'll use more robust fittings and good wire.  For the price of these things, I ordered what I did for more than this one reason, and I like to have some of this stuff on hand anyway.  

    • October 22, 2017 1:50 PM EDT
    • Dennis, are you trying to match the existing connectors, i.e. you have the socket, and need the matching plug (or vice versa)


      are you just looking for multipin connectors? If so, I would recommend getting a single connector for all wires you need. How many do you need?



    • October 19, 2017 7:05 PM EDT


      No, this is what I came up with:


    • October 19, 2017 5:35 PM EDT
    • Like these?


    • October 19, 2017 5:28 PM EDT
    • Good idea, Pete.  By-passing Bachmann's set up has a lot of benefits.  I did do more research and I am now with the belief that Bachmann's jacks are,  "JST XH style 2.5mm."  Cheap, so I ordered a few just to see.  They will probably be shipped from somewhere out of our solar system - likely another planet.  So I won't know for a while.  Between this and your idea, I should be good to go.

      Thanks, Dennis

    • October 19, 2017 2:22 PM EDT
    • Dennis,

      One easy option is the wires and connectors sold for r/c servos.  They have 3 wires and can be purchased inexpensively as extenders or as single cables.  If you need a 2 and a 4, then 2x3 will give you the same thing.

      Here's a 5-pack for $2.39. (Just search or amazon for "rc cables".)



    • October 19, 2017 12:19 AM EDT
    • Just went cross-eyed for an hour looking up electronics outfits that sell mini electrical connectors.  I have a Bachmann Industrial Mogul and the tender electrical connector and pigtail were missing.  (Used item)  I figure Bachmann buys their connectors from someone in China and it ought to be a standard part......somewhere.  I need tender female connectors and pigtails.  One 2 wire/ one 4 wire.  OR, I can give up on that and wire in my own versions.  (Which can be easier to deal with......B'mns are pretty fragile.)

      Anyone else deal with this issue?  It seems common to Bachmann to have troublesome connectors.  

    • September 10, 2017 5:39 PM EDT
    • Chris

      Hopefully you have at least one inch of space behind the clock face. There is one method of lighting signs I developed back in 2005 on my HO modular layout. It uses the same technology as backlit signs on commercial buildings. It will do a clock face as well. 

      Since it is a clock with a round face, you need a round plastic styrene tube of the same size as the face. Plug one end with a round piece of sheet styrene. Drill 3mm holes in the end. The 3mm leds will be glued into these holes or hole. The layout of the holes will be so the leds are at least 1/2'' apart. The led(s) will be lighting the inside of the tube.

      Once the leds are glued in place, fill the tube with clear silicone caulking. The caulk acts as a light diffusing material. It will also act as a glue of the clock face. The caulk dries overnight.

      The clock face is made on your home computer with your preferred drawing program. You then print the image on clear overhead transparency material. To seal the ink permanently to the transparency, use Testor's DullCoat. Cut the image & set it on the end of the tube into the caulk.

      Your building will have a hole cut into the side of the wall where you want to glue the tube into place.

      Since you are working with leds and it is an illumination project, test as you go so that you have the desired effect & your electrical is a ok once complete.

      Use black paint to hide any light coming through the wrong places.



    • July 27, 2017 6:51 AM EDT
    • IF you have the room, use a tube slightly deeper than the face is thick and a bit larger than the diameter of the face. place a clear lens on the tube and support the face on the other end of the tube with a couple pieces of wire glued to the back of the clock face and long enough to span the tube which will leave a slight ring around the edges of the face. place your LED or light bulb on the back of the face. Add a second piece of tube and a cap for the back and the light will appear to be surrounding the edge of the clock face and should be enough to show off the face.

      Or you can get real inventive and sand one side of a clear plastic rod and make a ring of light by placing a bulb at one end of the rod

    • July 27, 2017 5:34 AM EDT


      I also found this.. might be useful and avail in different colours...

       More than likely available in the  US

    • July 26, 2017 9:15 PM EDT
    • Rooster,


        It is a clock face (don't know why I didn't say that in the OP) that I'm trying to light.  Dennis made the face on his laser, and it is a beautiful piece.  He cut the minute ticks thru so you can back light it and they will show.  Thru some serious scientific testing, it looks like the tick marks show up great, but you can't really see the hands.  So I was trying to come up with another way to light the face, and thought of lighting it from the side.  Similar method to an old watch.



    • July 26, 2017 9:22 AM EDT
    • I never have Chris. However I will throw another alternative out there. What about a gooseneck lamp above the item? That would be period appropriate as well. (assuming its a sign of some sort)

    • July 25, 2017 9:35 PM EDT
    • I have an item going on the depot that would naturally be back lit.   Problem is, the model I have is of opaque material that won't permit it.  As an alternative, I was thinking of using some SMDs and lighting from the side, to simulate a back lit face.


      Has anyone attempted this?   This is what I'm thinking of using: Warm White SMDs




    • June 27, 2017 9:52 AM EDT
    • Pretty cool how that works Bob.



    • June 27, 2017 9:26 AM EDT

      Another minor update. I have all the electronic hardware for the CTC panel installed and wired (three boards, 50-ish LEDs, etc), and now I've started the JMRI scripting to make the panel actually work.   Here's a short video of the first control point leaving Burke yard.


    • June 22, 2017 11:23 AM EDT

      Some more progress.  Ive been working on the protocol for talking to/from the remote nodes.  I build up a second remote node last night to see if I was getting any data collisions or dropped packets anywhere.  Looks like the answer is 'no'.  So working as desired.


    • June 15, 2017 12:37 PM EDT

      Not a lot of progress on the mesh network, but I did get the remote node built up on an Arduino development board.  All components I got from Aliexpress.  Total remote node cost is somewhere around $6.   The design allows for up to 12 digital input/output pins, 4 input (via the analog input pins) or some combination thereof.  Dropping this shield on a Mega, or combining it with a Mux Shield would get you even more pins.


    • June 11, 2017 9:37 AM EDT

      Been slow the last week or so, just doing some wiring on various things.  Here's a short video I shot this morning on the occupancy LEDs on the CTC panel.  Minor progress.



      You can also look at my other videos in my channel to see where I am.

    • June 2, 2017 4:34 PM EDT
    • A bit of progress.  This is an inside view of the Burke yard office.  Servo on the upper left. Yellow and green paired wires go to the semaphore light, and the light over the door.  Power comes in the two-place terminal strip at the bottom, gets turned into 5v by the board next to it.  The white board center-left is a Nucleo F091RC STM32 board that takes care of the logic.