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    • November 5, 2019 12:28 AM EST
    • @Bill and Gap:

       

      Thanks to you both.  The plan for the DPDT and Throttle mount is to mount both in a new roof piece.  I can replace the raised portion of the cab roof with some styrene glued to pre-cut "timbers," cover the roof with sand paper, carefully push the new raise portion back-and-forth to sand it to shape, and then glue the lot to the top of Christmas Thomas. I cannot say when I will get to this, but that is the plan.

       

      As for installing R/C, I have an LGB Mogul that would be a perfect candidate.  If I had a larger railroad, this would be a "no-brainer;" however, on the Triple O, funds would be better allocated elsewhere for the time being!

       

      Aloha,

      Eric

    • November 4, 2019 2:59 PM EST
    • Eric Mueller said:

      Gap & Bill:

       

      Thanks.  The boys and I turned to on this project today.  Who knew wire stripping was a team effort?

       

      The lamp chord was a bit...sturdy, shall we say? But it worked to get power from battery to potentiometer and potentiometer to DPDT switch.  I used some smaller gage wire on the DPDT switch itself, and I  used the original leads from the motor to complete the circuit.  I managed to solder everything without frying parts, me, or the boys.   PROGRESS!!!  As a matter of expedience, I used some Velcro tape to hold everything in place.  Give this little loco's primary roll as toddler sacrificial anode, I handed it over to Kid-zillla, a certified older toddler, and his brother for field tests:

       

       

      The DPDT switch will need a better mount in time [Break for aquarium emergency.  All is well.].  The Velcro was not equal to the task of operations, though it would suffice for Christmas Tree runs.  We'll have to craft a new roof, but there is no rush on the project.

       

      Eric

       

      Well done Eric, will the next project be to convert all your fleet to battery, R/C?  No stopping you now.   

       

    • November 4, 2019 10:27 AM EST
    • Love all the memories in the wall

    • November 3, 2019 10:00 PM EST
    • Gap & Bill:

       

      Thanks.  The boys and I turned to on this project today.  Who knew wire stripping was a team effort?

       

      The lamp chord was a bit...sturdy, shall we say? But it worked to get power from battery to potentiometer and potentiometer to DPDT switch.  I used some smaller gage wire on the DPDT switch itself, and I  used the original leads from the motor to complete the circuit.  I managed to solder everything without frying parts, me, or the boys.   PROGRESS!!!  As a matter of expedience, I used some Velcro tape to hold everything in place.  Give this little loco's primary roll as toddler sacrificial anode, I handed it over to Kid-zillla, a certified older toddler, and his brother for field tests:

       

       

      The DPDT switch will need a better mount in time [Break for aquarium emergency.  All is well.].  The Velcro was not equal to the task of operations, though it would suffice for Christmas Tree runs.  We'll have to craft a new roof, but there is no rush on the project.

       

      Eric

       

    • November 3, 2019 2:33 PM EST
    • Eric Mueller said:

      GAP,

       

      Parts are all on hand, and the conversion from crummy IR control to less crummy finger control is underway!  Barring operator error on my part, Christmas Thomas should be ready to do loops around the Christmas Tree next month as well a return to "his" routine service as a sacrificial anode for visiting toddlers.

      Thanks again!

       

      Eric

       

      Glad I could be of some help Eric. Good luck with the build, if you take it slowly all should be OK.

    • November 3, 2019 2:29 PM EST
    • Look forward to the unveiling, Bill 

    • November 2, 2019 10:31 PM EDT
    • GAP,

       

      Parts are all on hand, and the conversion from crummy IR control to less crummy finger control is underway!  Barring operator error on my part, Christmas Thomas should be ready to do loops around the Christmas Tree next month as well a return to "his" routine service as a sacrificial anode for visiting toddlers.

      Thanks again!

       

      Eric

    • October 22, 2019 10:52 PM EDT
    • GAP:

      Thanks.  I have the DPDT switch on hand, so your suggestion is the way forward.

       

      Aloha,

      Eric

    • October 22, 2019 5:20 AM EDT
    • Eric Mueller said:

      Aloha,

       

      Because I cannot have enough projects, especially those involving defunct LGB battery powered m2075, I thought I'd start a new - hopefully easier - one.  In essence, the IR controller,  on  crew's LGB battery-operated m2075 no longer works.  As the sound card failed much earlier, my plan is to rip the whole thing out and replace it with a DPDT switch and manual speed controller.   Most, like the one here (https://www.mpja.com/DC-Motor-Control-with-Reversing-Switch/productinfo/32678+MD/) have a minimum voltage that exceeds the 4.5 V from the .   3x "C" batteries that powers this thing.  Clearly, the upper limit on the controller's range is there to protect it from getting fried.  Is the lower limit a similar "hard limit" in that below that voltage the component will not work?  If so, I will just insert the DPDT switch and the rechargeable battery back from my attempt to use Tamiya motors and a battery left over from a different project.

       

      Thanks.

      Eric

       

      The 10V is the minimum voltage that the unit will operate at.  

      This may suit your needs. 

      https://www.banggood.com/DC-1_8V-3V-5V-6V-12V-2A-PWM-Motor-Speed-Controller-0100-Adjustable-Drive-Module-1803B-p-1474880.html?currency=AUD&utm_source=bing_pa&utm_medium=cpc_bgs&utm_content=zouzou&utm_campaign=pa-au-all-pc-zouzou&cur_warehouse=CN

      To reverse use a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch as a reverser

       

      Or perhaps consider either a controller with a lower minimum voltage or a larger voltage battery.

       

    • October 19, 2019 8:52 PM EDT
    • Aloha,

       

      Because I cannot have enough projects, especially those involving defunct LGB battery powered m2075, I thought I'd start a new - hopefully easier - one.  In essence, the IR controller,  on  crew's LGB battery-operated m2075 no longer works.  As the sound card failed much earlier, my plan is to rip the whole thing out and replace it with a DPDT switch and manual speed controller.   Most, like the one here (https://www.mpja.com/DC-Motor-Control-with-Reversing-Switch/productinfo/32678+MD/) have a minimum voltage that exceeds the 4.5 V from the .   3x "C" batteries that powers this thing.  Clearly, the upper limit on the controller's range is there to protect it from getting fried.  Is the lower limit a similar "hard limit" in that below that voltage the component will not work?  If so, I will just insert the DPDT switch and the rechargeable battery back from my attempt to use Tamiya motors and a battery left over from a different project.

       

      Thanks.

      Eric

    • September 26, 2019 6:38 PM EDT
    • I looked at the back of the board with a magnifying glass (seem to need it more often nowadays) and looks like there is a 10,000 ohm resistor on the relay primary to ground.  Then I noticed a cracked case on the transistor connected to the relay primary.  I next removed the second unit to check it.  No cracked case!  I retested it on the bench and it worked.  Placed it by the track and cycled it a couple dozen times and it still works.

      What I think I did:  When I placed the second unit on the track I hid it in a structure with a window grill between the TX & RX sensors.  I'm guessing this interfered with the signal. 

      I broke 2 of the basic troubleshooting rules.  1) Make sure it fails twice before condemning the part.  2) Change only 1 thing at a time (I made a slight change in the location  on the sensor when I installed the second unit).

       

    • September 26, 2019 2:06 PM EDT
    • It sounds like there is a capacitor across the relay and after a few pulses, it charges up enough, and holds charge, to keep the relay active.  A big value resistor from the relay's + to ground may be enough to bleed this current off and restore normal operation.

    • September 26, 2019 1:09 PM EDT
    • Yes, both acted the same, operated normally 4-5 times then they're always "on", that is the relay is always energized as if it has detected movement.  If I power it off then power it back on the relay energizes as soon as power is applied and stays on.  If there's no movement the relay should de-energize when the timer setting is satisfied.

    • September 26, 2019 12:07 PM EDT
    • so power should be no issue... so the first unit worked for 4 or 5  times... the second unit did the same or failed to operate properly at all?

       

      Greg

    • September 26, 2019 7:54 AM EDT
    • On the bench I used an old router power supply rated 12V 1A.  On the signal I have 2 of those large 6V dry cell lantern batteries in series.  It acts the same both places.

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

      v

    • September 25, 2019 11:05 PM EDT
    • so the relay is rated pretty high on the contact capacity, so the relay is fine.

      what are you using to power this circuit? is your supply solid?

       

      Greg

       

       

       

      Greg

    • September 25, 2019 10:06 PM EDT
    • My basement hobby room overhead layout is a bit of a hodgepodge.  A friend gave ma a 1:1 single red signal light.  I repaired it, replaced the bulb with a 12V RV LED bulb powered by a flasher circuit based on a 555 timer, and mounted it beneath the overhead track.

      I ordered one of these IR Sensor Switch/Relay

       

      and wired it to turn on the timer.  With the delay set for a few seconds it turned the signal on when the train passed and went off a couple seconds after it passed.  After about 4-5 cycles now it stays on constantly.  When power is applied the relay turns on and stays on.  Contacting the seller wasn't much help.  A replacement unit acted exactly the same.

      I tried isolating the TX from the RX by placing a short piece of opaque plastic tubing over the TX but no change.  I have another unit but am afraid to try it until I know what's wrong.

      Has anyone tried one of these or have any suggestion for troubleshooting?

       

      Harold Wilson

       

       

    • September 24, 2019 7:24 PM EDT
    • I could dig out the part numbers of what I have always used. Same part numbers I gave to Stanley for use in the K-27, before somebody decided on Legos sized plugs.

      Same spacing so you can solder into the board in the third truck.

       

      Of course, there were "fixes" published on tying down the wires in the fuel bunker to keep them from breaking off the board.

       

      Gee, those "high priced installers" one (ONE) person complained about...those guys who had to re-engineer this garba....oops, stuff to make it work.

      Go ahead, fix it. Simply trying to unplug that factory plug will break wires...sooner...or later.  And, if batteries in water bunker with speaker, and electronics in fuel bunker..the surge current will often light up that (cheapest they could buy) PRC wiring. One of the guys on this forum had that exact thing happen.

       

      New plugs, SuperFlex wire. Never had one of mine fail there again.

      TOC

    • September 18, 2019 8:49 PM EDT
    • all electronics:

      pictures and links here:

      https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/dcc-battery-rc-electronics/misc-electronics/connectors

       

      Greg

    • September 18, 2019 5:36 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Helpful for all of us. I know the JST connector has been mentioned. Are there any other recommendations?

       

      Try searching Molex Spox Headers https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=spox&channel=pr..

      Something similar to this available from Mouser 250V 3A rated.

      https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/99-99-0988?qs=%2FgUkheq8lYnDtyvwgjyv7g%3D%3D&vip=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9NXvkKjb5AIVWyUrCh2q7wMcEAQYASABEgKxfvD_BwE

       To increase current carrying capability connect 2 or more pins together, (this method has been used by aircraft radio manufacturers for years) I did this when I converted my Shay with battery in water tank .