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    • June 28, 2019 11:09 PM EDT
    •  Righto then.

    • June 28, 2019 9:08 PM EDT
    • if you settle on the aristo power, then see if your throttle has a linear mode...



    • June 28, 2019 7:56 PM EDT
    • I have 3 different ones. Not sure which will power the "Trolley Line". Can't go out and check, it's pouring rain again. Most likely an Aristo 10 amp.

    • June 28, 2019 6:20 PM EDT
    • It will work fine with smooth DC. Will it work on pulsed DC, like PWM from Aristo? Maybe, maybe not.


      What "transformer" are you powering with?



    • June 28, 2019 4:48 PM EDT
    • Thanks, Guys. I forgot to mention it is LGB, and it came without paperwork.

    • June 28, 2019 3:58 PM EDT
    • So yes it should work just fine on DC track power.

    • June 28, 2019 3:46 PM EDT
    • If the streetcar is LGB, MTS would be "Multi Train System" which is the name of LGB DCC

    • June 28, 2019 3:32 PM EDT
    • Lou: I don't know much, just did a google search. It is possible that MTS means Multi Train System and that what you would be losing is the ability to have this work tandem with other powered streetcars? Maybe?

    • June 28, 2019 11:16 AM EDT
    • This is from a guy who only knows enough not to stick his finger into a light socket!

      I recently purchased a New Orleans Streetcar. In the description it said:

      This unit had a bad mother board and has wired without it. So MTS will not work.

      1. Will this work fine with my track power?

      2. What is MTS, and what features am I losing?

    • June 27, 2019 8:12 PM EDT
    • google DCC automation... there's lots of DCC compatible products...



    • June 27, 2019 6:15 PM EDT
    • Yea, you lost me. One of the big advantages with DCC is being able to independently operate multiple locomotives on the same track(s)

    • June 27, 2019 4:44 PM EDT
    • Dan, if you have assigned a unique address to each engine, you should be able to operate each independently.

    • June 27, 2019 10:57 AM EDT
    • I have the NCE DCC system to control locos through the rails (not wireless to the cabs - i.e. not G-wire).

      NEED:  I want to be able to alternate 2 trains on 2 sidings with trains operating in opposite sidings while operating in DCC.

      Not sure if there is a DCC solution or if I can use something like the RRConcepts Trainmaster/Stationmaster solution. (  As far as I can tell, DCC will not work with the RRConcepts solution.

      Would converting to complete wireless (G-wire) allow the NCE DCC to work with RRConcepts Trainmaster/Stationmaster solution?

      Any help would be appreciated.

      Thanks, Dan

    • April 10, 2019 5:31 PM EDT
    • I will have to get a 485 and play with it some.

      I found that many servos have specs that allow for 180 degrees.  This Hitec HS85MG for example:

      Max PWM Signal Range (Standard)  553-2300μsec
      Travel per µs (out of box).              104°/μsec
      Max Travel (out of box)                  182.5°


      I believe the Futaba S3003 was mentioned in another thread.  Mine definitely does 170 degrees out-of-the-box with 100% throw.


    • April 10, 2019 5:27 PM EDT
    • I had the same problem Pete, for an architectural model for work. Couldn't find real answers. So I ended up using a 2:1 sprocket/chain. 


      But on the same project, I had linear servos that needed .5 to 2.5ms, which my usual controller wouldn't put out. This unit did the job,


      From the questions / answers, this single controller is said to have the same range,


      I don't have it anymore (it shipped with the project), otherwise I'd test to see if it made any dif with the servos I have on hand. I don't have the one you mentioned though.


    • April 10, 2019 4:04 PM EDT
    • I'm not much help as I do all my servo pulses in code.  Various software bugs have killed servos when I've sent too short or too long a pulse.  Those little micro ones seem particularly sensitive, I've killed a bunch of them, so I cap mine at 1ms low, 2ms high and don't deviate (at least on purpose).  Nevertheless that's good to know, I will have to get a 485 and play with it some.  I want to incorporate live steam into my Protothrottle widget so that sounds like a good experiment.

    • April 10, 2019 3:37 PM EDT
    • I wanted to enlist you electronics wizards, so I'm posting this - you may not bother to read the Live Steam forum.


      Here's a bit of research I did on making servos go the distance.

      " The standard servo . . . is a 485, which if you look at the specs is a 90 degree servo when supplied the standard pulse range of 1 to 2 msec. The specs also state the 485 can rotate 180 degrees with a pulse range of 0.6 to 2.4 msec."

      From other research, it appears the RX sends a pulse of width dictated by the TX. So it's the TX that decides how wide the pulse and thus how far the servo turns.I think.


      This one seems to be adjustable to 150% on all channels, for $35+$12 shipping.  However, though it is 2.4Ghz it isn't DSM2 so I'd have to use their RX and refit some locos.

      Any comments?

    • March 9, 2019 11:17 AM EST
    • OK - That makes electrical sense. If heat causes the resistance in the LED to change and the voltage does not change the current will - Ohms law.  I assume the drivers respond to that and lower the voltage. I've not had that problem even when not dimmed mine do not get overly warm. They did come with a big honkin' heat sink. Maybe that is keeping them from overheating. You can almost see the heat sink in this pic from Amazon...

      The entire back is an aluminum heat sink.


    • March 9, 2019 10:13 AM EST
    • Jon Radder said:

      Pete - This is how I think it works. I'm sure Greg will jump on me if I don't have it right.   I put my meter on the output of one of those LED drivers and measured both voltage and current. The current reading I made note of so I know how many I can drive from my supply.  The voltage was noted as the operating voltage which I matched with a proper supply.  When the LEDs are operating at their optimum current; the voltage will be a fixed number. So long as I drive them with the same voltage, they will not draw more current than they drew from the LED driver.

      Jon, the problem is that if the LEDs are sufficiently powerful that they get warm, the voltage drops and then the current changes.  I got my 'thermal runaway' explanation from googling LED drivers.

    • March 9, 2019 10:06 AM EST
    • " Rooster " said:
      Jon Radder said:


      Speaking of code - If that is your setup in the picture, I would recommend a metal box for your drivers and 110V connections. It looks like you are mounting on a piece of wood. If your 110V connections fail for any reason, that wood might ignite !

      Pretty much

      The lighting was installed by an electrician, not by me.