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    • April 26, 2018 4:23 PM EDT
    • Daniel Collins said:

      Yes, but do I want to spend $150+ to install DCC in a loco I paid next to nothing for, and wasn't very expensive when new?

      Like Boomer said;

      What you paid for the item or its original value is irrelevant. If you like how it looks or decide to use it as the basis for a kit-bash/conversion it is the end result that matters.

      So you got it for cheep, good for you, that leaves more in the budget for upgrades. If the thing does what you want it to do, then does the original MSRP matter? I say no, no it doesn't. Just don't load the locomotive down with a dozen cars and expect it to last forever. The first train I run every year on my railroad is a Bachmann Reading set, its kind of a tradition here. The set looks good and runs well, even if it was a cheep set, I like it, I run it, and I would upgrade the drive when and if it finally fails, even though I got the set for cheep on a closeout sale.

    • April 26, 2018 1:16 PM EDT
    • Daniel, even a poor cut of meat can make for great BBQ with a little work.

       

      What you paid for the item or its original value is irrelevant. If you like how it looks or decide to use it as the basis for a kit-bash/conversion it is the end result that matters. You like DCC, so go DCC with all the frills. You can always pull those electronics out and put them in a different engine later.

       

      We spend our whole lives stressing over the budget, providing for the family, fulfilling all of our obligations personal and professional. That job is now passed to the next generation. Its your retirement time, enjoy the fruits of a lifetime of labor and make no apologies for enjoying your hobby (not even to yourself). Spend the $150. Shit, go buy two boards just so you have a spare!

    • April 26, 2018 12:54 PM EDT
    • Right, you put a $30 decoder in it, as opposed to a $40 battery! (and something towards a charger)

       

      Greg

    • April 26, 2018 12:38 PM EDT
    • Yes, but do I want to spend $150+ to install DCC in a loco I paid next to nothing for, and wasn't very expensive when new?

    • April 26, 2018 12:29 PM EDT
    • Yeah, well all the new stuff for sound and motor control is DCC, so why fight progress?

       

      I've been having too much fun with sound and speakers and smoke, all the stuff that can be odds with finding room for batteries and power consumption.

       

      Greg

    • April 26, 2018 11:29 AM EDT
    • DCC!

    • April 26, 2018 9:31 AM EDT
    • I suppose I could leave my 0-6-0 and rail bus DCC, leave the #12 4-6-0 DC, and convert the #49 4-6-0 to battery power.

    • April 26, 2018 9:13 AM EDT
    • Of course, I now have the choice of converting it to DCC, or buying a decent DC set-up, as they came with the original very marginal DC controller.

    • April 26, 2018 6:21 AM EDT
    • At todays exchange rate 100 USD = £71.7234 GBP  (give or take a few cents)....  its the bargain of the year!! 

      Nice one.

    • April 26, 2018 1:50 AM EDT
    • Envious am I!

    • April 25, 2018 9:11 PM EDT
    • Daniel,

      The way the Chattanooga runs and sounds, I think $100 for it and all the cars and the other loco and tender, you made a very good deal!

       

      Adam

    • April 26, 2018 2:31 PM EDT
    • Last summer this White Pass & Yukon car was primed for painting to I haven't decided which of my freelance roadnames yet.

      And Bachmann's factory people had for once securely glued the window transparency parts, most securely glued them.

      Easy masking but time consuming. And lots of potential failure points when it came time to spray.

      Even though there was no rust to stop that is the type of primer used. Plus my mind considers Bachmann's factory paint to be a 'difficult surface'. 

      Sprayed inside clerestory roof area white so as to bounce around eventual interior lights.

      Will have to sand or scrape paint off clerestory sides in order to install transparent parts which will not be the factory red ones.

      Did not paint floor/frame or trucks.

      [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/978/26853723717_78ea525e7f_z.jpg[/img]

       

    • April 26, 2018 10:23 AM EDT
    • Hey, thanks y'all. And since y'all are liking the Pennsy project here's the Virginia and Truckee project. The real V&T 26 was a 1910-something locomotive and of course was not in the 1870 style fancy livery Bachmann made their set locomotive in. Ironically they made the cars in a correct yellow and green for the 1930s where 26 would have been used. Before the yellow and green they were yellow and brown.

      So ... liking the fancy loco paint I decided to backdate the car colors.

      V&T used several colors on its passenger cars through the years including a light green and a wine red.

      --> After what I said earlier about chronic Krylon misbehavior over Bachmann's paint the red on the cars may well be Krylon but over Duplicolor auto primer.

      Again this is a project which is happening very slowly and was begun around 2010 or so.

      Note that this project's goal is not 100% accuracy but rather to capture a flavor.

      Once again photo is on Mike and Mary's now gone because they retired and moved layout.

      First the roof hatch and the electric generator had to go.

      [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/949/40999483344_f22404fffb_z.jpg[/img]

      --> note: instead of painting over factory fancy stack I bought a plain one to use instead

      Oh, and note the smokebox got shortened to look more woodburnerish.

      In real life the extended smokebox had a coal cinder catching arrangement inside.

      [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/27848153178_2f1f58d43a_z.jpg[/img]

       

       

    • April 25, 2018 8:59 PM EDT
    • Okay, I'm not crazy.

      Or we all are.

      Anyway, here is one of my repaints of a Big Hauler train set locomotive, the PRR one from 2009.

      Boiler jacket was sprayed with some flavor of Rustoleum metallic grey, and here almost a decade later I can't recall what if any primer was used.

      Or what the green used was other than it didn't quite match Bachmann's green.

      [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/954/41666219012_016753fa29_z.jpg[/img]

      EDIT: chipping white paint off wheel rims was a chore but it Had To Go.

      --> Note: striped cab awning is semi-prototypical; in Model Railroader's 1980's edition of Steam Locomotive Cyclopedia there is an 1880s origin 2-8-0 of some PRR subsidiary which has cab awning with narrower stripes.

      So, once I got a train of a scale large enough to matter ...

      [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/948/41706123681_e92b16fb35_z.jpg[/img]

    • April 25, 2018 5:00 PM EDT
    • I like Rustoleum paints over Krylon and I have used them on all manner of train cars.  

      The $1 walmart paint works well too. The black has a nice sheen to it and the grey is pretty good too.  They used to have a nice rusty red but now it is bright red.  

       

      I would suggest multiple coats one right after another until all is covered.  Usually 10 minutes between coats is good. Start by turning car body upside down and give it 2 coats then flip it right side up and give it 2-3 more.  The only problem I have had is in covering large lettering or logos.  That usually takes multiple coats.

      When your project is completely dry, I usually wait overnight the whole car gets a coat of matte or satin clear to protect it. 

       

      If you use rustoleum use all rustoleum products, I have found mixing rustoleum and krylon can cause bad reactions.

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

    • April 26, 2018 8:43 AM EDT
    • Greg .. Any water letter outers ?

    • April 25, 2018 3:59 PM EDT
    • Greg,

      Now that is one solid wall!

    • April 25, 2018 3:57 PM EDT
    • Boomer,

      You are one FUNNY guy!