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    • July 18, 2017 9:44 AM EDT
    • Hmmm...I can't see the pictures...others seem to be able to.  I just get boxes with an x.  I've tried both Google and IE...any thoughts?


    • June 28, 2017 5:53 PM EDT
    • thanks a lot! this pic of the casting preparation will help me.


    • June 28, 2017 11:36 AM EDT
    • Korm

      I don't think I did a build log on these figs because I have covered that process in detail a couple of times. Here is a pic of the setup for pouring the RTV mold.


      I am not very artistic so it takes me forever to make the masters on this stuff. I reuse a lot of what I have already done and just make changes for variety. This is really evident on the men's heads where the new hair and details are visible in yellow modeling epoxy on top of the original gray primed heads. The original body appears the same way. After making an initial cast I then used copies as the bases for the coverall and suit bodies. Once I had those I added folded arms to each body type for the passenger figures.


      One thing I found out right after making these was that the Hubley Ford model A pickup has a shorter distance from the seat back to the firewall than the other vehicles in the series. To make people fit in it I had to cut their feet off and sand down the arms. This fall I will be making a new set of bodies and arms that will  fit the pick-up better.


      I also have these guys for the Model T series in the works.


      It is all very labor intensive but none of the commercial casters makes figures like this in 1/20.3. The same reason I made passengers for my Accucraft coaches. Still need to redo the male figure so his hands are crossed in his lap.


      In the end it is a case of if I want it I will have to make it.

      Hope this gives you some ideas.

    • June 28, 2017 10:50 AM EDT
    • really nice painting!

      and about making the figures themselves, either i missed that, or i forgot...

      could you give the link to that?

    • June 26, 2017 2:30 PM EDT
    • Great Boomer. I like the treatment of the cars too. Makes me remember that I've got a couple Hubley kits siting on the shelf I should complete too. Love the seated figures.

    • June 25, 2017 9:21 PM EDT
    • They look great, you really got the faces!



    • June 25, 2017 8:39 PM EDT
    • As some of you remember I made these last year. Finally got some finished and installed.







      Got some more in the works. Will post more pics as I get them done.


    • July 7, 2017 11:21 PM EDT
    • thanks, David.

      but i woun't have much time for this new discovering. they made me chief today.


      Rick, it IS very easy... those above were my very first tries.

      i will not try to file it with my jeweller's files. i'm afraid, they would get clogged. the green stays a little soft.

      but fine sanding paper should do. or i could use plumber's two part epoxy. that gets stone-hard.


      Andrew, i got the stuff from Amazon.

      what kind of things are you making with it?

    • July 7, 2017 7:58 PM EDT
    • The stuff works good. The detail can be good if you're careful with the molding. Here is the address I order from:

    • July 7, 2017 7:18 PM EDT
    • Looks interesting Korm.

      Seems easy enough to use, maybe I could even master it

      Does the two part epoxy get hard enough to sand/file?

      Thanks for posting this


    • July 7, 2017 6:36 PM EDT
    • It all looks good Korm. 

    • July 7, 2017 3:02 PM EDT


      the rifles are 1.5 inch long.

      the single barrel is 1.5 mm thick.


    • July 7, 2017 2:40 PM EDT
    • to inaugurate my new, homebuilt worktable for toying around with resin and similar stuff,




      i decided, to try something that should be simple and new (to me)


      from the 28mm figures (1:64) modelers i read about things and aplications for materials called the "green stuff" and the "white stuff".


      the white stuff for the molds is something, that gets kneadable from heating in water (they say 170F), then dried and formed around some master. at getting cooler it gets stable, with some flexibility.

      to use it again for something else, it has to be heated again.

      the green stuff for the copies is just some kneadable two part epoxy, that gets nearly stiff after a time.




      i tried to copy a Preiser bread in 1:24, a head, i printed in 1:29, two printed rifles in 1:32 and a little dog from a Kinder egg.

      (as i write this, the dog and one rifle are still in the forms)

      for mold release i used some vaseline-aloe vera paste, that i had standing around.




      looking sharp, it is visible, that the copies tend to become a little bit bigger, than the originals.

      first evaluation.

      i think, i need bigger pieces for the molds, maybe with boxes around.

      on one sided copies (like that rifle) i have to scrape away more green material, that they do not become too thick.

      and... smearing the mold-release in with the finger, instead of a fine brush, makes for missing parts in the copy (missing nose in head)

    • May 22, 2017 12:01 PM EDT
    • probably nothing... as my layout is set in the time of the middle 19th century -the 18 hundreds

    • May 22, 2017 10:17 AM EDT
    • Korm

      Your bike is an amalgamation of several different versions of the BMW R(series) 72.


      The hydraulic forks were introduced in 1932 while the side valve engine did not come along until 1938. Licensing to produce M72 variations was granted to Russia and Ukraine (Ural) and to China (Chang Jiang) prior to WWII. In 1940 Germany began producing the R75 which matches your sidecar and jump seat. All Of these and many more models were produced after the war and sold all over the world mostly as kits.


      These bikes are small and compact compared to the Bigtwin HDs and Indians. It is probably best suited to 1/22.5 or 1/24th scale but I am sure no one will notice if you put it in a 1/29th scene.


      It would look great sitting on the street piled with traveling gear or it is entirely probable that your railroad acquired one of the early versions and converted it for use as a rail bike. It would be appropriate for any time frame from the mid 1930s right up to the present as the Ural is still in production in its 1944 configuration (modern brakes and turn signals excepted) and sold worldwide. One of its greatest features is the fact that the sidecar wheel is powered by sharing a driveshaft with the rear wheel making it two wheel drive.


      A great find. I look forward to seeing what you do with it.

    • May 21, 2017 9:05 PM EDT
    • Sometimes, the broken toys make the most interesting models.

    • April 15, 2017 7:47 PM EDT
    • Korm, I refuse to grow up! Grown ups are grumpy people who are always worried about things that never happen. And, if those things do happen, they aren't as bad as they thought it was going to be.

    • April 15, 2017 3:56 PM EDT
    • which one was the straw, that broke the camel's back?


      i'm 65 now, and i'm finally trying to grow up. (partially...)

    • April 15, 2017 2:07 PM EDT
    • John, I agree, what's one more project? I will never finish all the ones I already have, so why not one more I won't finish?

    • April 15, 2017 9:20 AM EDT
    • I'm guessing a military Harley Davidson... WWII

      Hey what's one more Project?